Messages

Just saying!

Noah can you post some pictures when you do the install?

The head sail is easy, I find the main sail to be more of a pain. Welcome to the club.

We had warm weather today, so I managed to put the teak trim on around the cockpit entrance. Glued the plugs but will wait for a while to sand and finish them as the weather is turning cold. I still have to do the hatch boards and the long pieces on top of the hatch. some more pictures.

Dave I would use what the manual says to use. If I am reefing it is usually because the wind is high and would not want a lighter line that may break or not be the proper size for the hardware. For example a thinner line may slip on the cleat. JMO. Anyway hello Dave and welcome to the club.

Ron I finished the steps with cetol and have a piece of tread on the top step. I have been fortunate so far and have not slipped on them. I am careful on the steps.

Glenn : I would NOT recommend a varnish like finish on the step treads.  They might become slippery when wet!!

After all they are steps to be walked on - so even with boat shoes they will eventually show wear!!

A few thoughts

Phil ,

  I took the floor boards home to refinish a cople of years ago. I finished them with the west system clear epoxy, see photo. Last year when the picture you are referring to, I had taken them back home and put on a varnish over the epoxy after a light sanding. I am going to take them home again this winter and do a light sanding and reapply a coat of epoxy because the varnish chipped when I would drop something hard on the floor, ussually after my Manhatten

Glenn,
I like the stairs, nice job! Did you pull the floor boards out to refinish? I see they are missing from in front of the stars.




Phil Eisenberg, No Address
1990 Catalina 34 Mk 1.5
Hull 1222
Alameda, Ca.

avi is your boat out of the water?

Hey G, Welcome,

   I have done most of my teak over the last couple of years and am currently doing the exterior cockpit teak. What I do is try to remove the teak from the boat and take it home then remove/strip all  old finishes then use teak cleaner and brightner then sand lightly. I am a cetol guy which is heresy to some but it gives a consistent look. The finish lasts without much work. For example I removed all the wood from the Vbirth took it home then did my process the put back on boat. I will attach some photos. I will take more when I get down to the boat. https://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,11222.0.html.  I also did not remove any interior teak that was screwed and had plugs.

We had a boat owner drown at my marina yesterday. I did not know him and do not have the details. I know it was windy here yesterday and the water temperature is cold. Although my boat is out for the season my thoughts are we should all know where the ladders that the marinas have put out for emergencies are located and we should set up our slips with some safety lines to use in case we fall in. The piers at my marina are long and maybe he was hurt when he went in and could not make the swim to safety. We all need to stay vigilant about safety, sometimes we forget we are all getting older. Sucks

Eric, 

Did you also remove the long teak pieces that secure the sea hatch?

I've been following this post with interest since I did this same work in July 2020. I feel it's a good time to weigh in because I was able to solve a problem I think several C34's suffer. After we purchased Ohana I noticed evidence of a leak on top of the aft port side of the engine compartment cover, right in the corner. I tried several ideas...but that area always seemed to get wet after it rained.
When I removed that piece of teak on the sill the problem became quite clear.....there was little to no sealant under the sill.....the sill is just flat enough that water can collect there and migrate down the unsealed edges and it would end up soaking the engine compartment cover and the surrounding areas.
My solution was to finish the underside of the teak, tape off the area completely and bed the sill in a healthy amount of black polyurethane caulk. I removed the excess caulk that squeezed out and continued on with refinishing the faces of the teak.
That area has been bone dry for well over a year now and I'm happy with the results.
Below are pics of the sill area when I'd removed the teak.....it was PACKED with dirt and debris which obviously didn't help the situation.
I've noticed other Catalina's (not just 34's) that put tarps or other specialized covers over the hatch areas and I wonder if it's to keep water out of the boat.....
This solution was actually pretty simple and I hope it helps others.

Stu
Your answer is partially what I was looking for - like "The engine has 7/8" and 5/8" hoses."   As I said, I'm 4 hrs away from the boat, and it is all wrapped under tarps, so I won't be in the boat again until April (hope, hope).
I have enough photos of the engine, through hulls, water heater, etc. that I can make a good guess at approximately how many clamps I need, and then buy extra to keep in inventory.  But I just can't tell what sizes are typical for those applications. 
I'm just trying to plan ahead, and make certain I have everything I need next spring.
Thanks for all the recommendations - I'm an experienced classic car restorer, so I've replaced plenty of engine hoses.  But I just purchased this boat in October and had to wrap it up immediately for winter, so I'm still getting familiar with its details.

Glenn - thanks for the link, and any info you can provide!

Tom I have been down to the boat twice and have forgotten both times. I am a loser. I am planning on going down again Monday. A side note you may want to check to see if the hoses from the engine to the hot water heater have been replaced. PS I have restored TR6 twice in 40 years. Many of the things you will do on the boat are the same as restoring a car, I mean just go system by system. On a car the brakes first, on a boat the thru hulls.... Maybe on monday I can call you when I am at the boat and we can do it together, a thought.

more

Eric thank you for your response. I was finally able to remove the sill teak today and as you noted there did not seem to be any sealer there. I am going to clean up the teak and the fiberglass and wood that it attaches to. I will have to use some kind of sealer but do not know which to use. It seems I will have 1 chance of doing it correctly because of the  way it is mounted. Some of the teak stayed on the wood/fiberglass when I removed it.  do not think it had been removed since it was originally built. In fact the teak sill plate leaves a little to be desired. I am thinking of making a new one but may not have the skills to do it. Some pictures. Also do you have some pictures of your finished project?

It seem to me above the spreaders is too high, both for looks and it would place the weight higher than needed. I have a standard rig,  not tall. My  4G radar is mounted below the spreaders and above the steaming light, using a bracket from Kato Marine. I fly a 135% genoa and have never had any issues with it "hanging up" on the radar.

I wish I sailed where there are palm trees in the photos!