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His name is James Aspel. He answered the phone and I found him very informative. He explained the rubber gets hard with age. And since some of these have been around since the 50's, he sees 30 to 40 years units with the original rubber.

Federal 708-352-2200

Hi Bill
I installed a shiny new SS shaft last spring. I should be able to get it off without much grief but understand why you had an issue. I ordered the Fed Flex yesterday and had a long discussion with James who has worked at Federal since the late 60's. These flex couplings have been around since the late 50's. He said the trunions should be replaced every 10 to 12 years. Also he discussed the key and set screws positions.

Looks like they can be different for different boats which means new spots on the shaft are required if they don't line up. I have not read that anywhere in many discussions since I've been looking.

The price list I had is old. The Federal 43A for our boats are $315.00 and grounding straps are $10.00 each.

Thanks
Dale

Hi Allen,
I was not able get on the boat last night. Weather here was yuck. I plan getting on it Thursday night and will report back Friday morning. I will take pictures and post them if I figure out how to do that.

Hi Allen,
I have a 2001 MKII. I'm not sure what you mean by retaining screws being cut. I assume the bulkhead should be fixed.
I will take a look at mine tonight.

Got the price wrong, the Federal is less than $250 and the PYI is less than $200. I think the correct Federal is a 43A.

Thanks Roc
I have the dripless as well on a 2001 MK II. If I spend the time and money, I might as well go with a true flex coupling. The PYI is less than half the cost of the Federal, however I would want some vibration reduction. Do you have the Federal spec on yours? And there is no need to modify the shaft?

David,
Why did you need to cut the shaft down? Thought the PYI didn't take up that much length. Thinking about the Federal too.

Thanks Ron, I am going to Walmart and getting a few bottles of the PS injector cleaner. I'll give this a try this weekend and report back.

Thanks Stu,
I am a bit concerned about the full strength injector cleaner. Though it probably mixes with diesel as it gets pump to through the fuel system. If you guys have been doing this as a regular maintenance then I shouldn't be worried.

Thanks again.

Hi Stu, Jim and Ron,
I've looked for blogs about cleaning the injectors by filling up the Racor with a cleaner. Not very successful but then I'm not so skilled in searching. The cleaners of choice are PS, Lutrun and maybe SeaFoam.

My plan is:
1) Shut off ball valve to tank
2) Drain the Racor bowl
3) Unscrew plastic container and fill it with cleaner or find other path to fill the Racor bowl with cleaner
4) Open ball valve to the tank
5) Check for leaks
6) Start her up

Is it that simple?

Thanks
Dale

Thanks guys, that sounds like a great idea. I'll check out the PS and the Lucus. Never thought about cleaning the injectors like that.

Thanks all for the replies.
The transmission flange to prop shaft coupling is within 0.003". I aligned it while on jacks and then again following 2 weeks in the water. Interesting that the alignment did change by a few thousands after launching. The prop shaft is new SS, (the original bronze was corroding and the surveyor noted it required changing), and the cutless is new. The dripless is new as well. I installed a 2 blade folding GORI. It is a 15X12 and calculated to be correct by GORI.

In general, I have very few concerns with the system. The engine shakes at 800RPM in neutral (typical I'm told). In forward at around 1300 RPM to 1500 RPM there is a vibration that rattles the cockpit locker covers. Inceasing the RPM does stop it. I've read that an engine on rubber mounts  tends to bounce around a bit and can stress the dripless or stuffing box and cutless.

I like the folder but expect it adds  stress to the transmission gear when shifting. So the interest in isolator couplings is to reduce the effect of the folder and cut down on the vibration around 1300 RPM to 1500 RPM.

A 15 knot breeze drives the boat over 7 knots on a beam reach. And that is with a furling main sail that is really just another jib with it's negative roach. Pretty happy with it and think the folder is a significant drag reduction that adds 0.5 kt to 1 kt to the boat speed.

New questions:
1) Ron, Do you think the flywheel damper is adequate with a folder?
2) Roc, Did you install the Federal and notice a difference?
3) Jim, Your story is concerning. Do you know the make of the isolator? Do you notice any vibration underway at a specific RPM?

Thanks
Dale

Hello
Looking for thoughts on shaft couplings to reduce vibration and dampen shock to the transmission when switching gears. I have a C34 MKII with a dripless and I've read the Vetus Bullflex will not fit. I'm leaning towards the R&D coupling. Does anyone have experience with it or other similar couplings?

Thanks
Dale Stone

Had a similar problem on a 2001 MK II, I couldn't go higher that 1600 RPM. I called a mechanic and he suggested a cable brake. Installed it near the engine side and it seems to work. The part is from Seastar Solutions pt# 044386. Amazon carries them.

I don't like the idea of crushing the cable insulator  but it does work.

Yep, That is how I did it, pulley at center and another at the pulley edge for repeatably. Placement of the reflective tape and black tape covering painted surfaces was key. The laser tach worked but took a while to get a stable reading. Had to be patient with it.

Update on the limited RPMs. The throttle lever is returning by itself. If I hold the throttle at max the RPMs are 2800 and stable.

I need a throttle cable brake.

My Gori prop is 2 blade 15X12. At 1500RPM and small chop I was making 5 knots SOG read from the chart plotter.