Messages

Hi Robert
Let us know how that goes, I was thinking digging it out would be a first good attempt.

Hi Robert,
I understand your dilemma. Do you know the extent of the wet core? A moisture meter may help but reading them can be tricky.
Repairing from the top side and bottom side has their pros and cons. If the wet core is close and contained to hatch openning, then digging it from the side may be an option.

Hi Paul
I'm adding a Rocna this year too. I'm going with the Vulcan 15. I think my roller on the MKII is long enough to handle it. See you in the boat yard soon.

Thanks Robert, I'll add this to my list. I just finished a reply and noticed I got logged out.
Other prone areas for core moisture are:
> Chain plates
> Piano hinge attachment, cockpit seat to deck.
> seahood, envelope cover of the slide hatch

I redid the chain plates, completely redid them as I am very unimpressed with the original install. Also the deck aft the port winch due to the tiny loose wood screws holding the piano hinge on. I did a long explanation of that hinge repair and lost it because I was logged out without knowing. I can detail the repair and chain plate redo if you are interested.

The main message though is wet cores do not dry out. You have to cut them out and replace.

Good luck!

Hi Ron,
I'm in New England, Salem, Mass. Interesting thought, the ocean water here ranges from 60F to 70F during the sailing season.
I have to think about how that would work. I can imagine the 160F moist exhaust just over the 65F water condensing and creating a fog layer. Very clever!

Thanks
Dale

All,
I love this org. It is very informative and sometimes amusing. I too have noticed some steam coming from my exhaust. Doesn't take much running to see it and because I can't see the actual exhaust output (I hate that about the C34II), I see a layer of steam on the water and hope there is water coming out. But as stated, the temperature is around 160F (I think) and never changes. I am new to this boat, 2001 C34II, and was going to dig into it next spring. I did change the impeller before launch, which was a PITA.

Mick,
The picture of the hose from heat ex-changer to riser was scary. I will definitely check mine. Do you think that was the reason for the steam?

Thanks

Hi Steve,
Can you txt me a picture? May be good for spares while I decide about the pricey adjustables.
978 609 6380

Thanks Steve,
I checked them out, little pricey but very useful.

Hello,
Think I have a stupid question but wanted to verify the fairlead track dimension (both inner and outer) on a 2001 C34II.
My quick measurement is 1.125" wide. I will check it again tonight. Track blocks available are for 1" and 1.250" tracks.

Thanks
Dale

Thank you
I was worried about the pointy end and what it would do to the gel coat. Was the 30"long roller refit a big job?

Hello,
I am warned this string is over a year old but wanted to give it a try. I have a 2001 34 MKII and desire to upgrade the anchor from the CQR to a Rocna. The sizing chart calls out a 15Kg (33#) anchor. I am deciding between the Original and the Vulcan. Any thoughts on the two and how these fit on the standard C34 MKII roller would be very much appreciated.

Thanks
Dale

Then had to be something got between the graphite and the SS rotor to create the leak. Hope it doesn't happen again.

Hi,
Thinking the bearing hadn't enough water for cooling and lubrication during the dock exercise. Do have the vented type?

Jim, Roc,
Really like your lever lock. I looked on the Garhauer website and didn't find the lever or the option for the OEM holes.

Hi Allen
I was there at night and took pictures. Hopefully I can insert them. The forward bulkheads are firmly screwed into the head liner. The screws are all tight and the one I removed is 1.25" long.