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Hmmm... Maybe I should have purchased the Krikit that goes from 50-150lbs then?

That's the one I have

I selected the 100-300lbs version based on the Marine How To article here: https://marinehowto.com/marine-alternator-installation-tips-tricks/ which is also the article that suggested using the Gates V-Belt Tension calculator.

That sounds very tight to me too, but one thing I've learned is that if Rod says to do something, it's a good idea to do it. I'll have to read over that article and see what he said. Every time I think I've read all of Rod's advice, someone comes up with something else that I missed.

I guess one important question is what is the designed side-load limit (beyond which bearing failure is accelerated) for the water pump and alternator? If I knew those limits, I'd divide the lowest one by two (since side load = 2x tension*cos(belt angle)) and use that as the maximum allowable tension.

["the sea water pump....require daily inspection"]

Could an issue with the raw water pump have anything to do with causing the alternator failure? I can't imagine it could, but maybe there's something I'm missing.

Seems that the bulletin was updated at one point to indicate that Westerbeke had determined poor maintenance was the cause of the issues, not the missing collar.

In a word. No."

In Westerbeke's typical fashion, SB 235 was updated to point the finger toward the owner instead of to the faulty designed IRON pump that can seize up. 
"the sea water pump....require daily inspection" Really? REALLY?  The pump is so badly designed that it needs to be inspected EVERY DAY?

The ring on the camshaft was simply a bandaid (a very slight hedge against a seized pump.)  As you may know, Westerbekle has finally wised up and retired that G908 pump and replaced it with a proper "marine" BRONZE pump.

Just curious, the G908 has a bronze pump cavity. Only the part that mounts to the motor is cast iron, and Depco painted mine when they rebuilt it, and I have not seen any rust. How does changing that part to bronze reduce the likelihood of bearing failure? Have the bearing materials been improved in some way? Are you recommending the new version of the Sherwood pump as a worthwhile purchase?

Once you get that sorted...be aware that due to our tanks NOT being square, the gauge is only "correct" when it reads 100% full and 100% empty.😎

Actually mine is not even correct at those points either...

Thanks for all the info and suggestions everyone. I was able to find essentially the same alternator as what I'd taken off, at a local shop. Based on the discussion here, I decided that was the logical way to go for now, with an upgrade to a larger, externally regulated alt in the near future. This one will become the backup. Interestingly, this new Mando claims 55 amps, while the old one claimed 50 amps...

Could you post the model number? It might be handy to know if my alternator should fail in the future. Drop-in replacements are always good to know about.

I typically tighten to 60-70 lb on the Krikit gauge (measured at about the midpoint on the port side (between the main pulley and the alternator). The belt starts to wobble on the port side at around 40 lb.

Disclaimer: I'm not saying that 60-70 lb is the correct tension, it's just where I like to have it because I don't like seeing the belt wobble. I did have a coolant pump fail once, but it was a long time ago, before I started adjusting my belt tension.

I have a good trick for de-tensioning my belt for easy adjustment, and I took some pictures of it the other day. See this thread: https://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,11731.0.html

Before I looked at the video I was thinking it might be belt slip, but from the video it looks like your belt tension is plenty (no wobble at all on the right side).

If you suspect a bad bearing, I suggest pulling your raw water pump and having it checked at a good pump dealer. (I used Depco to inspect/rebuild mine.) You really don't want a water pump bearing to seize up because the greater resistance could break the end of your cam shaft, which will ruin your sailing season (at the very least).

When you pull off the pump, check the slotted end of your camshaft to make sure it has the reinforcing sleeve installed. This critical fix was described in Westerbeke Service Bulletin #235. Have a look at it so you know what you're looking for:

https://www.westerbeke.com/service%20bulletin/service%20bulletin%20235%20universal%20cam%20sleeve%20update%2006-28-13.pdf

Regardless of whether it's open cell or closed cell, it's very important to consider the firmness of the foam vs. its intended use. If you're sitting, all your weight is in a relatively small area, so you need something that's firmer than if you're lying down, where your weight is spread over a wide area. So a cushion for sitting should be significantly firmer (and thicker) than a cushion for lying down.

I have no specific reason to think these other windlasses won't work for you, but be sure to verify all measurements on your own boat. Things that will fit on the MkI and Mk1.5 boats may not fit the same in the MkII anchor locker. This is a precaution that many of us MkII owners have to take for much of the advice offered by other C34 owners here and on Facebook.

FWIW, my boat has a very short chain that makes it easy to haul in by hand. I also have a Mantus 35 lb anchor. I used to keep a few wraps of Gorilla tape (very heavy duct tape) around my capstan to allow for cranking in the chain without damaging the chrome. I'd have to replace it every 3 or 4 uses. You might consider that.

I have also gotten rid of the thimble and shackle and instead spliced the nylon rode directly to the chain. That allows it to pass through both the roller and (if necessary) around the capstan.

More recently, my normal procedure in calm conditions and soft mud bottoms is 1) haul in nylon rode manually to get as close to 1:1 scope as possible 2) go eat breakfast while the anchor loosens up (with anchor alarm on and/or watching the horizon for drift) 3) go forward and break the anchor free using the windlass and continue cranking the anchor until chain reaches the capstan 4) pull chain manually until anchor is at the surface 5) manually pull the anchor up and drop down repeatedly until most mud has dropped off the scoop (often done while my wife slowly motors the boat out of the anchorage) and 6) haul in the last bit of chain by hand. This method takes advantage of the lighter nylon rode, and minimizes our dependence on the windlass, so that we've practiced for the day when it ultimately fails.

If I'm in a heavier wind, I either use the windlass for step 1 or have my wife drive the boat toward the anchor while I pull it in manually.

Some people need a lot of chain, especially if anchoring in rocky areas where nylon rode could chafe, but I only anchor in soft Chesapeake mud. Fortunately I've never had to crank in a whole bunch of weeds. I can imagine how that is frustrating and frightening.

FWIW, Re-Mov Silicone and Adhesive Remover is another alternative that was rated a little higher than Debond. I've used it for a number of things. It doesn't dissolve the sealant; it creeps between the two sealant and substrate and causes a loss of adhesion. As such, it required some patience - pry up a little at a time, then wait for it to creep some more. I've found a lot of uses for it both on the boat and at home.

Practical Sailor ratings of both of these products can be found here: https://www.practical-sailor.com/boat-maintenance/ps-tests-adhesive-removers

There's an internal gas spring which often breaks. It didn't work (or maybe was completely missing) when I got my boat.

I searched and searched for a direct replacement for the gas spring, but couldn't find it. At the time, CatalinaDirect had this direct replacement for the whole pedestal, but IIRC it was something like $600, and I didn't think it was worth it. It's now discontinued, so I missed my opportunity to get ripped off    https://www.catalinadirect.com/shop-by-boat/catalina-380390/interior/table-pedestal-wgas-spring/

For my dinette, I always leave the table up, so I just cranked down really hard on the knob to keep it in place. I haven't tried anything crazy like sitting on the table - that might lead to a bad result. I still can't remember if the broken gas cylinder is inside there or not - I just don't touch it for fear of breaking something.

CatalinaDirect has one-piece pedestals that might work for you. You could get two - one for up and one for down. You need to measure the required lengths (and verify the diameter), since it is custom made: https://www.catalinadirect.com/shop-by-boat/catalina-42/interior/table-pedestal-silver-anodized-for-silver-powdercoat-alum-base/

Those three pages seem to show an evolution in the methods.

First page (1980-1983) shows no nuts, but lots of internal laminate covering up an internal flange. I feel bad for those early C27 and C30 owners who have to cut a large hole in their hull to replace their struts.

The second page (1983-~2000?) shows an external flange with internal nuts covered up by laminate. I guess Gerry Douglas liked hiding the internal nuts, but you need to hack up the interior laminate to get to the nuts for removal of the strut.

The third page, dated in 2003, shows internal nuts but no internal laminate. I guess Kent Nelson liked the idea of being able to remove a damaged strut without hacking up the interior. The strut is still not easy to remove since the nuts are typically sealed with 3M 5200.

FWIW, my 2001 MkII's original strut was attached using the method shown on page 3 (no interior laminate). When the strut was damaged in 2019, the replacement was installed using the same method.

Important note: you can have voltage at the fixture and still it's not working.  That can be because you have a high resistance (poor) connection somewhere in the circuit.  So with an open circuit you get a good voltage reading, but as soon as current is flowing the voltage drop across the poor connection doesn't leave enough voltage for the light to work.

I must add that this is a potentially dangerous situation. High resistance and high voltage drop lead to high heat, and is a fire hazard. All connections must be either very low resistance (closed switch) or infinite resistance (open switch).

Thanks all. The lights in the forward cabin used to work fine, then the port one went out a year ago and now the starboard.  These are very helpful tips for diagnosing the problem.

I had a couple fixtures go out because the switches were making unreliable connections - a fire hazard. I found these SPST rocker switches that fit perfectly in the existing MkII light fixtures. I got some white ones, though all I see right now is black:

5Pcs On/Off Boat Rocker Switch 5Pcs 2 Pin Position Snap 12V 110V 250V QTEATAK https://a.co/d/1QzLRfy

FWIW, I also retrofitted these LED bulbs into the existing fixtures. Currently unavailable, but I'm sure Amazon has an equivalent version from another seller:

MUMENG Super Bright 10 Pack 4W AC/Dc 12v G4 LED Lights Bulb Lamps 24x2835SMD Warm White G4 Base LED Bulbs Non-dimmable 30W Incandescent Bulb Equivalent https://a.co/d/eZ6VMiL

I saw a note in another forum claiming that Catalina uses Ezell. Since I read it on the internet, it must be true. 

I'm not at all unhappy with my plastic tank. I think it's more corrosion resistant. I read somewhere here about some people complaining about odor permeation of the plastic tanks, but I have not noticed it. Neither has my wife, who is extremely sensitive to smells.

It's not particularly important to me, I was just curious. I believe that around that time aluminum was in short supply and prices for it were sky high, which I've heard is why they switched to plastic for awhile. It's also possible that Catalina offered a choice, with an upcharge for an aluminum option. Or maybe your PO complained about permeation and got a warranty replacement to an aluminum tank.

Thanks, that is very helpful. That tank was fabricated by Ezell Industries in Perry, FL. https://ezellindustriesinc.com/

I'm not at all sure about this, but it's possible that your boat may have originally had a plastic tank that was later replaced by a custom-made aluminum one. I'll have to keep Ezell in mind if I ever need to replace my tank.

It's very odd that you have an aluminum tank, yet were only one boat before me. I have plastic, and one added incentive to empty the tank every winter is to reduce the exposure time that could lead to eventual permeation of the diesel odor through the plastic.

Have a look at this post: https://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,10409.msg81154.html#msg81154 . In addition to my tank being plastic, it's mounted much higher than the others shown there, with virtually no head space over top to allow for easy removal. To get it out, I think I'd have to tear out the wood above it from the lazarette (since the access ports probably don't provide sufficient access to fastener hardware), remove all the top fittings, and then barely slide it out the opening. And it makes it virtually impossible to install a "stock" aluminum replacement because it probably would not fit.

If/when you get a chance, please have a look at the dimensions and location of your opening and post a picture. It would be interesting to compare. Do you think a PO might have replaced your original tank with a (custom?) aluminum tank?

As for the root cause of the fuel improvement, it could be several things. Storing the diesel in a well-sealed container helps. Minimizing the amount stored and keeping my partially filled fuel tank turning over faster keeps the fuel fresher. And filtering virtually all the fuel into the tank once a year helps. I can't predict which of these is the dominant factor, but taken together, the end result is a night-and-day difference.

I'll mention that Maine Sail used to have a lot of detailed information on his site demonstrating that topping off the tanks provides little or no benefit. So my findings agree with his prior statements.