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Messages - Breakin Away

Pages: 1 [2] 3 4 ... 22
16
Main Message Board / Urgent: Sourcing a new strut
« on: April 16, 2019, 06:05:11 PM »
Hi all,

My boat needs a new prop, shaft, and strut. I think I have good leads on the first two, but the strut is a concern. The boatyard's supplier is planning to source it from Buck Algonquin. I believe that CatalinaDirect has the exact part, with the perfect (square) hole locations and perfect curve of the mounting plate, making for the best possible fit (and least man-hours of work). I know nothing about Buck Algonquin except some online pictures that show "generic" struts with no holes and a flat mounting plate. However, I realize it's also possible that Buck Algonquin might have an identical one to the Catalina/CatalinaDirect, and might even make it for them.

Do any of you guys know about Buck Algonquin as a replacement strut for our boats?

17
Main Message Board / Re: Slipping transmission?
« on: April 15, 2019, 07:52:31 PM »
Hurth 50  2:1
Thanks, I'm rereading a lot of the stuff there which I had seen before, but it was less urgent at the time, so I had forgotten some of it. I had planned to spend this season with my refurbished 15"x9", do more extensive testing of motor RPMs with my strobe, check shaft RPMs vs. spec gear ratio to ensure there was no slipping, then make a decision on re-pitching. Now I'll almost certainly have to buy a new prop without that benefit. Almost makes me default back to another Michigan Sailer prop rather and save my $2100 for a future Flexofold after I have my data.

Sorry if my questions were repetitious - I need to go back and re-read a bunch of stuff before asking any more questions.

18
Main Message Board / Re: Slipping transmission?
« on: April 15, 2019, 07:35:30 PM »
Thanks for the reminder. I'll go back and look at it again.

I remember that you had 15"x10" prop on a smaller motor, but Ray at Atlantis reminded me that the transmission gear ratio has a big impact, and could negate the larger motor. What is the gear ratio of your transmission. My Hurth HBW100 is 1.79 in forward.

I was planning to test full throttle RPMs on that trip as soon as I got into close range of my final destination. Unfortunately I did not make it far enough to run the test, and now I'll likely have to choose a new prop without that data.

By the way, I had put an anode onto my strut before launching. We'll see what kind of condition the strut is in soon.

19
Main Message Board / Re: Slipping transmission?
« on: April 15, 2019, 06:51:59 PM »
BA,   I read the thread where you were having your prop checked back in January and then more recently about your trans slipping.  Did you have it fixed and was there a problem with it that could have caused the problem you have now? How did you confirm hitting the log? Just asking because maybe there is another issue to consider.
It's 100% certain that all three are completely separate issues.

My prop was checked proactively - there was nothing wrong with it, I just wanted it checked out. Ray at Atlantis Prop did find one blade was pitched only 8", so corrected all blades to 9".

The question about transmission slipping was noted on the hard, as I was rotating the prop and shaft to put a final coat of paint on it.  It had nothing to do with the prop at all. In fact, I rotated the shaft by putting a pipe wrench on my shaft anode to turn it, since Ray warned NEVER to block the prop blades.

The boat was dropped in the water yesterday and running 100% perfectly until the incident with the submerged log, probably a railroad tie. When I looked astern, I saw the end of an ~8"x8" square cross section popping through the water. There is no question that I hit something that caused the problem, and the surveyor will confirm it tomorrow or the next day.

Assuming the prop needs replacing (which I'm 95% sure of), I will probably apply insurance toward a 3-blade 15"x9" Flexofold, assuming there's sufficient clearance between shaft and rudder. Shaft or strut are probably damaged too for reasons I already explained.

20
Hi all, I think my belt needs tightening. I don't hear any squealing and don't see excessive rubber dust, but I do smell a faint burning rubber. IIRC, my alternator measured 144F when running at crusing speed, but everything around it was around 160F, so I don't think it's excessive. (Tell me if it was.) I did see a little in-out vibration of the belt in the long run from crankcase to alternator.

I see a lot written about tightening the belts for the smaller (older) motors, but not the M35B. From what I can tell, the alternator is in a very nice position to loosen the top bolt and pull it outward. Is it that simple? Is there another bolt that's the pivot point? Does it need to be loosened, and is it hard to access.

I'd appreciate any advice from someone who has done this on the M35B. I have the standard 50A alternator, not the big 100A upgrade.

21
Main Message Board / Re: Slipping transmission?
« on: April 14, 2019, 07:49:27 PM »
Thanks for all the condolences and advice. Bill - we missed each other by a few hours. My prior message was posted at 11:46 PDT, or 2:46 EDT.

It's in the hands of the insurance company now. I'm real big into DIY, but since I'm in a foreign yard accumulating daily storage fees, I need to let the pros handle it. Plus, I spend every other week out of town on business, so my progress would be too slow paying transient storage fees. I've got a really good surveyor assigned to my case (I actually tried to hire him for pre-inspection survey when I bought the boat, but he only did insurance work). I've never met him, but I had talked to him over the phone a few years ago and was really impressed. I am very concerned that my shaft or strut may be toast also, since the shaft does not rotate freely with the transmission in neutral (when turning it from below). As you know from my post last week, I could easily rotate the shaft as long as the transmission was in neutral.

My boat was launched this morning from my boat club's DIY yard. Great rates ($400 for haulout, storage, and launch), but I have to supply my own stands, which I bring home during the season. Like Bill, I have EIGHT of them that I bought with my own money. I do think you can get away with four for a short time as long as there are no big storms. But certainly not for a whole winter season.

Dave Skolnick, my go-to guy for most marine advice, suggests Gori or Flex-o-fold props. (I'll do some homework, but for tonight I'm just worn out.) I'd appreciate your advice comparing the two. I may have to go with identical replacement if the insurance situation gets too complicated (if Michigan Props even makes the original Sailer 3 blade prop any more). But I'd consider paying any upgrade costs for folding/feathering. My current 3-blade prop is 15"x9". Should a folding prop be the same pitch, or is there some reason folding props need to be different? Are any of them adjustable, so I could tweak it between seasons if it responds differently from expectations?

22
Main Message Board / Re: Slipping transmission?
« on: April 14, 2019, 11:46:49 AM »

Curious, where do you plan on staying over-nighting?  DE City?  That's where I'm on the hard this year.  If all goes as planned, I'll be doing the 1-day to Worton Creek the last Saturday of April.   I'd check the prop spin but I decouple the shaft while on the hard.
FYI, I should be at Delaware City Marina in about an hour. I am being towed in because I hit a submerged log and destroyed my pop, and maybe my shaft. Hopefully not the strut. I hope Timís people do good work, because my options may be limited.

Meanwhile, what folding  prop brand do most people recommend? Also, if I have to replace the shaft, what grade of stainless steel is recommended? I currently have the original bronze shaft.

23
Main Message Board / Re: Slipping transmission?
« on: April 10, 2019, 08:46:29 PM »
I've stopped over at Delaware City Marina many times, but usually when heading the other direction. When heading from Essington to Rock Hall, I usually try to make it a little further than Delaware City in my first day. Last year I anchored at Ford Landing in Bohemia River, this year I might stop at Chesapeake City now that they've dredged. A lot depends on wind direction (affects anchorage selection) and how many days delay I may have due to the forecast thunderstorms (since favorable currents though the canal get ~45 minutes later each day).

24
Main Message Board / Re: Slipping transmission?
« on: April 10, 2019, 04:02:30 PM »
If I remember this weekend I will try mine as I am still on the hard, I painted it Saturday and it turned freely so I am assuming it was in neutral. When are you launching over on the eastern shore? We had some boats go in this week.
Thanks, that would be great if you could put her in forward and see if you can turn the prop. I have no other way to compare similar boats.

My boat is on the hard on the Delaware River near Philly. I am scheduled to launch at high tide Sunday morning. I was planning to make the 2-day trip to Rock Hall Sun-Mon, but the thunderstorm forecast may delay that.

25
Main Message Board / Re: Slipping transmission?
« on: April 09, 2019, 02:31:59 PM »
Breakin : Did you ever considered that - in gear and turning the prop by hand you are also probably turning over the engine!!

A thought
I don’t think I’m that strong. It’s a diesel, after all - compression rate too high. And it was constant resistance, not pulsing like a cylinder.

But if anyone here has turned over their diesel by turning their prop, let me know. Maybe we should arm wrestle!  lol

26
Main Message Board / Slipping transmission?
« on: April 09, 2019, 11:30:55 AM »
My boat is on the hard. While spraying some Barnacle Barrier on my prop, I noticed a lot of resistance in rotating the prop. It would turn, but only with a lot of effort. I climbed into the cockpit, removed the helm cover, and discovered that the transmission had been shifted into forward. (This probably happened when I removed the steering wheel for the winter, or perhaps knocked into it without the protection of the wheel.) After shifting back to neutral, I was able to rotate the prop easily, the only resistance being caused by my cutlass bearing.

But this begs the question: Is my ability to rotate the prop in forward (albeit with quite a bit of resistance) a sign of a problem with my transmission? Prior owner had it rebuilt about 170 hours ago. Is the prop supposed to be fully locked when in forward? Or is there meant to be some frictional movement, which could be why the manual instructs NEVER to sail with the transmission in forward?

27
Main Message Board / Re: Mantus on bow roller
« on: April 09, 2019, 11:07:00 AM »
No problem here either. I have no interest in disassembling mine unless needed for a repair.

Mantus can email you a printable template if you want to check for yourself.

28
Main Message Board / Re: Where to find Rydlyme?
« on: April 04, 2019, 08:04:36 AM »
I called today and the nearest Rydlyme dealer is on the Jersey shore, 2 hours away. The guy told me that Philadelphia is "too land-locked" for them to have a dealer nearby. He told me to "buy it on Amazon." I'd gladly buy it on Amazon with free Prime shipping, but Amazon does not actually sell Rydlyme. Their company is the one selling it using Amazon Marketplace as their portal, the they are the ones who choose to charge over $17 for shipping. When I pointed this out to him, he acknowledged that Amazon does not actually sell their product.

29
Main Message Board / Where to find Rydlyme?
« on: April 01, 2019, 08:04:24 PM »
Hi all, I'm OK paying $31 for a gallon of Rydlyme. But $17 for shipping? Not so much!

Is there a brick and mortar place that sells this near me (Philadelphia area)?

Also, am I correct that Rydlyme can be used for cleaning both the raw water side of a HX (clean in place without having to remove, as Ron Hill does with Lime-a-Way), as well as cleaning/flushing the EG freshwater side (presumably for descaling cylinder liners and the outsides of the HX tubes without disassembling)?

If I can't find an acceptable source for Rydlyme, I see that Lime-a-Way is available at my local Home Depot for $5 for just under a quart. However, I've read the arguments against Lime-a-Way because it is claimed to be strong enough to cause damage to the metals. Has anybody looked over the SDSs from these and come up with a dilution formula? If not, I'll consider doing some calculations myself:

Rydlyme 5-9% HCl, pH "Unreadable, generally < 3":
http://www.rydlymemarine.com/assets/1/7/RYDLYME_MARINE_SDS_1112017.pdf

Lime-a-Way "Toggle" version 5-10% sulfamic/sulphamidic acid CAS 5329-14-6, pH 2 to 2.2:
http://www.rbnainfo.com/MSDS/US/Lime-A-Way%20Cleaner%20-%20Toggle%20EN%20GHS%20US.pdf
Interesting Wikipedia article that mentions Lime-A-Way: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sulfamic_acid

If nobody had done this, I'll do some molarity and pKa calculations to see what dilution of Lime-a-Way might create a similar activity as Rydlyme.

I'd gladly bypass all this and just buy Rydlyme if I could find a suitable local source. If not, it sure looks like Lime-a-Way could be diluted down to an idiot-proof (or even sailor-proof) level of activity, and the convenience of running down to Home Depot may be tempting.

30
Main Message Board / Re: Fuel gauge calibration
« on: March 02, 2019, 01:31:21 PM »
I too was very surprised how linear the data looked. I expected a more parabolic shape, curved downward, to reflect the tank shape. But I did nothing to "fudge" the data to look linear. It is what it is.

And as you can tell from the points plotted, I've never run below 1/8 of a tank. I don't like seeing the needle bounce around (and the fuel slosh around) so much when it gets below 1/2 tank - though I do want to get the tank as empty as possible to avoid back-mixing of stale fuel with fresh. The one time I went down to 1/8 tank to get the data point I had a full jerry can (and extra fuel filters!) onboard.

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