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Messages - dfloeter

#1
Quote from: AndyBC on March 02, 2024, 10:08:03 AM
Quote from: dfloeter on March 01, 2024, 02:36:25 PMWe did  the Trent Severn in 2019 and thoroughly enjoyed the tour of Ontario.  Compared to the NY canals that we traversed next, well there was no comparison.  The Canadians might be pressure washing the lock walls while in NY the growth is thick and toxic.   My terry cloth covers rotted off.  The TS was also mostly manned by eager college kids who did a fab job.  We hope to head east and south again and may go this year but still undecided. 
If we stay north 6-7 weeks in the North channel is a good substitute,

6-7 weeks in the north channel sounds like a fantastic backup plan!  I now have the trent severn on my to-sail list, will have to do more research to prep.  Have you sailed the thousand islands area?

Sadly our only experience on Lake Ontario was a quiet, mast horizontal, 40 mile trip over to Oswego, NY.  Canadian friends rave about the islands but it's unlikely we will get there.
#2
We did  the Trent Severn in 2019 and thoroughly enjoyed the tour of Ontario.  Compared to the NY canals that we traversed next, well there was no comparison.  The Canadians might be pressure washing the lock walls while in NY the growth is thick and toxic.   My terry cloth covers rotted off.  The TS was also mostly manned by eager college kids who did a fab job.  We hope to head east and south again and may go this year but still undecided. 
If we stay north 6-7 weeks in the North channel is a good substitute,
#3
Well, I walked into that one didn't I.  Point taken.   :D :D :D
#4
Shoot, I should have read all of that 101 topic before I launched into the hose replacement.   The last post from Jim Lucas was spot on and might have saved me some time.   
#5
What a fun job this has been.  Snaking the new hose through was certainly made easier by accessing the undersole space through my many holes.  After drilling a new set of 2" holes to starboard of the engine beds just like the originals on the other side, I used a couple of fiberglass electricians snake rods to run a string from under the galley to the new holes.  The new hose is regular and good Gates ⅝" heater hose and it barely fit through the tight spot just in front of the engine space.   I pulled from the front to rear with the pull string tightly stitched through holes drilled in the end of the hose to make the end small enough to get through the restricted spot.  After clipping out all the old hose that could be reached to make room I pushed enough hose up by the bilge pump past the thru hulls and through the bulkhead to the water heater to allow some movement of the heater.  The double run used about 25' of hose.  Once happy with the hose install I set into filling some of those holes.  With a router rabbet bit I cut rabbets deep enough to recess rounds cut from the original vinyl covered plywood flush with the sole.  I did epoxy coat the hole edges and the filler pieces before setting the fillers in place.  This was probably overkill but easy.  And now it's ready for new vinyl.   
This job became much larger than expected but that has certainly happened before and will happen again. 
#6
Ok, I can add to this.  I just went through this with my 1996 Mark 2 and it was not easy.  From all the other written experiences I expected to pull the hoses through with little issue.   Those hoses would not budge.  After 10 3.5" holes were bored in the sole I had the problem licked.

The issue was caused by the original hoses having been run through tight and short sections of pvc pipe glassed under the sole.  No way were those hoses pulling through and they are still under the sole.  There was also a hose clamp in the middle of a hose run guaranteeing its existence.   There Needing to leave so much of the original hoses behind, the factory drilled holes on the port side of the engine space was occupied.  Fortunately there was room on the other side of the engine compartment to run the new hoses.  I bored new holes next to the engine beds, snaked a messenger line and pulled new hose through.

Warren at Catalina was very helpful through this process.   I was impressed with his willingness to communicate.  Apparently my boat is very unusual.

Good luck.

#7
I am finally replacing the hoses and have run into a hitch.  Everyone who has written about replacing these hoses talks about a relatively easy push and pull to change the hoses.   I feel I must be missing some very obvious detail.  With both ends disconnected and the water heater end pulled down a bit near the under galley thru hulls and the other ends coming up vertically from the holes with the alternator removed, they don't move.  Pulling and pushing from either end gets me nowhere.   It's almost like the hoses are fastened in place but I know that is not likely nor is there anyplace to do so. 

Any ideas?  At least it is winter and I have until spring to get this done there is no rush. 

Another unrelated question: I have to raise the motor mounts due to a new gearbox having a greater offset that necessitated raising the engine ¾" or so.  I have made some nice mahogany blocks but wonder if I shouldn't be using a metal that won't compact under pressure and vibration.  The wood risers are varnished and ready to go but I can easily back up and getsome aluminum or steel cut to size.
#8
Main Message Board / Re: Removing transmission
October 04, 2023, 01:15:56 PM
On my Mark 2 there is ample space once the prop shaft is slid back. It seems to me the earlier boats might be similar.  The tough part is getting the trans to slide back off it's mounting due to the tight tolerances.  I think I started the movement with a putty knife between trans and engine and then a screwdriver gradually moving around and not forcing anything.  Good luck. 
#9
Almost all the original varnish on ours came off with a scraper.  The varnish was failing in small round areas and lifted very easily. 
#10
We used the Krylon Fusion paint a few years ago and the plastic surrounds still look good.  Just my experience. 
#11
I will second the Renogy suggestion.  I have had 3-100 watt flex panels on our dodger and Bimini.  They work well and keep the bank of four gc-2s fully charges in spite of the fridge being turned on since May. 
#12
Thanks Ron.  My need to change those hoses is not a dire as previously thought but since they are of unknown age they are on my list.  The contents are under pressure which further reduces the need for wire reinforcement and will take your advice. 
Happy sailing. 
#13
Thanks Noah and you are right.   Our boats can vary quite a bit.  I'll just take a stab at it and hopefully end up with a bit extra. :D
#14
I hope I am not missing the info needed somewhere in the files but all reference to required hose length is from Mark I Boats.  The water heater hoses on my Mark II with the M35A wiggle aft under the injector lines around the back of the engine before diving down the two holes to port and heading toward the galley sole and beyond there to the heater.   Rough measuring/guessing with a tape shows at least a 14' run each way.  To avoid buying too much extra pricey hose has anyone done this mod with a memory of the length?

Weirdly, under previous ownership what I presume is the original black hose was partly replaced with the good green stripe hose with the joint being somewhere under the galley sole.   Because of this I will be pulling from the galley end in hopes of finding that joint.   That just makes the job more fun.

This all came to a head a few days ago when the coolant temp spiked and the bilge seemed to be full of antifreeze.   Thanks in advance.
#15
For the price of shipping I know this is a long shot but otherwise it's being tossed.  It fits the standard 1.75" intake found on I don't know how many models.  It is drilled for the crankcase return hose fitting with I believe is ⅛" NPT.  Any takers?