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Following up on my comment from thread posted on companionway squeaking http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,9563.0.html:
and my recommendation that those who bought and installed plastic glide strips under their hatch runner/track—should definitely fasten them down. Mine got displaced somehow and got sucked up inside the hatch under the cover and was a pain in the ass to remove and remedy. To retrieve the slide and restore to "normal", my fix was:
1. removed wood plugs/bungs from after trim of hatch encloisure
2. unscrew and remove trim
3. dig around and capture slide with 16 inch-long lock forceps/pliers (Green Giant-sized roach clip) from Harbor Freight
4. Drill and counter sink track slightly off center line to take #8 flat head screws. Drilled countersink outside the the boat as the  countersink bit would hit the hatch rails. I used a long 1/8 extension bit to pilot through countersink hole to drill into fiberglas track to pilot for screws.
5. Reinstalled trim with new wood plugs. Had to redrill for larger plugs as the old plugs were glued and holes were a bit "rough" after removing plugs with a chisel.  Next step. revarnish.

Geoff- what brand pole and mounting set-up do you have? Is it a Selden, same as sold by the Catalina Yacht Store?

I am not a expert on PSS dripless shaft seals however, I do know if the bellows fails (rubber tears/cracks or becomes unattached) it will flood the boat and could sink you. I would have someone "knowledgeable" take a look at it before you go motoring. At the least, download and read the system's manual to understand how it should work and how to maintain it.

Define "nightmare". A lot depends on what it was bedded with previously as to how hard it is to remove. After removing the screws, a good way to break the sealant bond between the hatch and deck, is to use a multitool with scraper blade attachment inserted under the hatch flange.

THX, Ron!

Does anyone know what year (hull number) they changed hatch and ports models? My 1990 (#1014) has Bomar opening ports aft, Lewmar opening ports in salon and V-berth, Bomar extruded hatch in head, Bomar extruded hatch in saloon, and Lewmar trapezoidal rollstop hatch in V-berth.

You can sail it. Some shallows and gerenally a beat going out, but there is a deep channel.
http://www.charts.noaa.gov/OnLineViewer/18773.shtml

In my opinion, a little "left leaning" is a good thing.

I agee. That worked for me as well.

It looks like you have an old-style PSS-dripless system, not a traditional stuffing box. So it should NOT  drip/leak at all. But your photos are a bit fuzzy as is my experience with that system. Other readers are sure to weigh-in with "correct" info as I may be incorrect.

The prop shaft is supposed to "leak" if you have a standard stuffing box and not a PSS dripless model. You can adjust the amount of drips by tightening the stuffing box and dependent on the type of packing you use, should likely drip a few drips per minute while shaft is turning to cool the shaft and may or may not drip while shaft is not turning.

Probably built that way. It is a phenom of mythical proportions with our boats. Search "port list" and you will read a lot about it. Some claim it is crowd hysteria some claim it is real as can be. I am in the second camp and ballast/store more heavily on starboard to counter act.

There is a fly in the ointment. The strangest (and most frustrating) thing happened. Yesterday, my hatch didn't feel right opening and upon close observation it appeared my port side "new" glide strip was gone??!? Upon more exploration I discovered it wasn't "gone" but had it flipped 90 degrees to vertical and slid between the curve of the hatch and the hood. Can't imagine how or when this occurred... But,  I have been fighting with all manner of homemade tools (including a stiff welding rod bent with a right angle hook sharp ground point) to stab it and pull it out, with no success. I am trying to avoid having to remove my highly varnished and bunged teak hatch hold down assembly... but may have to in order to retrieve the displaced plastic glide. I am going to try to remove the aft facing athwartship teak trim first, and see if it gives me enough clearance to I maneuver some super long needle nose pliers to grab it . The "message" in all of this is I recommend if you have these new plastic slider guides, put a screw in the aft end of each to ensure they can't flip out of the track and go vertical on you. I will keep you posted on my fight to rectify this weird turn of events. It's always something....

All personal decisions:
1. Mission Bay leaves NO option other than to head to out to sea for any/all sailing.
2. Prefer San Diego Bay berthing; many options on Shelter Island or Harbor Island. South Bay (Chula Vista) is cheaper, but long way to go up the Bay to get to the ocean.

-Noah

Interesting that Mainesail, when describing "best practice " for fitting a shaft or prop zinc, mentions using Tef gel on the bolts/fasterners, but doesn't say use it on the mating surfaces, such as on the shaft or prop themselves...