Messages

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hump : You'll get used to that dimple transom. 
At least you won't have a molded in propane tank box (walk thur transom) which will limit you to ONLY a 1 gal (4.5lbs) propane tank!!
The additional 3 hp negates any side load taken by the hi output alternator over the 21hp engine!! 
A few thoughts. 

hump : I'd go for the 1990.  Wish I had that transom and it has 3 more hp in the engine. 

Allen : Back in the Mainsheet May 1992 I wrote up (with a diagram) how to make a Sunbrella cover for your mast boot and why you should consider making one for your C34. 
Actually my boot(under the cover) still looks quite nice and still looks new today.  Not at all the ugly duckling!!
Look in that May 92 tech notes and you'll see what I made that's still in use 16+ years later!!!   

Susan : Most of us cruisers have put all kinds of additional insulation around our fridge box!!! 
I sprayed foam on the starboard side between the hull and the box (carefull if you use the expanding foam not to force in the inside of the fridge wall.  You can also use NON expanding foam). 
Then I put 3 1/2" foil faced fiberglass batting around the port side of the box, front of the box and around the bottom of the box.  I covered that with 1/2" metallic bubble wrap on the outside of all of those sides and secured both with metallic duct tape. 
I added a piece of 1/2" foil faced Styrofoam to the seat back (in the salon) that is the front of the box.  It's behind the seat cushion and taped in place.
Added a piece of 1/4" foil faced building insulation to the side toward the stove.  Not much room there so that's about all I could do.
On the top of the lid is a 1" thermal pad that was made to fit the entire top.
Every little bit more of insulation helps!! BTW, we only open our lid a couple of time a day.  Beer/sodas/water are in a separate cooler.

Not to offend you, but this is about the 5 or 6th time that I've written this same thing up. 

Mike : It would seem to me that the Teflon tape could be the culprit on the old switch (1/2 the normal reading pressure? - so it gave a low abnormal reading?).  I believe that most switches/senders have a tapered thread, just so you don't need any sealant and get metal to metal contact. 
You should not put anything on the threads of the temp sender, oil sender/switch or your zinc in the heat X.  All these items need a GOOD ground (-) contact. 

jrc : You might want to put your 915 roll furling on the "Marklet Place" section of our web site!! 

Doug : I believe that you have a Jerry Douglas question. 
Sounds as though it's a problem "beyond the pay grade of our form members" to give an adequate answer. 

Guys : With vintage boat of 20 years, I've already replaced my fuel line twice !! 
Take and look at a 90 degree bend or bend the fuel line to that degree.  If you can see cracks on the outside of that bend - CHANGE your fuel line!!. 
I'll bet that there are fuel lines still out there that are painted the same bronze color as the engine!!!   
A thought.

Sailing : If you look on page 5.2 of your owners manual you'll find the "Lifting Recommendations".  Also on that page it shows a C34 in a cradle with all of the dimensions (height/width/length)!! 
If your manual is on the boat, look in our web site for the owners manual, make a copy of that page and FAX it to the guy that's making your cradle.  BTW, Your wing draft is 4' 3".  A few thoughts

Dave : Why not ask Catalina what they use for a mast cradle when they ship the boats from the factory?

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Guys : If you have ever seen the boats in a marina that have had a lightening strike on a power line near by (hi surge ie 300,000V) - I'll guarantee you that you'll never let your unattended boat stay plugged in again!!!!!!!  It doesn't take a direct strike to melt everything starting with the boats shore power AC adapter if you are plugged IN. 
Enough on this stupid topic.  Stay plugged in and you may have a "warm" $10,000+ drink - some day.  Your boat, your choice.   OUT 

Cliff : You have never mentioned the amount of time with the engine running - that you don't have hot water. 
I've never timed it, but I'll guess that it takes about 1 hour of engine running time before you have shower temperature water (and that's no cold water added!) !!   A thought   

Guys : The bit about staying plugged in if you have a smart charger (3 stages) with the fridge turned ON is NOT so much about hurting the batteries.  The smart charger should take care of the batteries, but it's about the wear and tear on the fridge unit and that charger.  The charger is constantly sensing and charging/turning off.  There is also the real threat of a lightening power surge when plugged in (and not being on the boat).  Although it is not good to keep lead acid batteries at full charge all of the time, as you are also unnecessarily wearing out batteries, charger and the fridge.

It would seems to me that with an insulated bag you could put in you frozen vodka, gin or what ever booze from home and pop it open on the boat and save all of that wear and tear on the boats systems for the 6 or what ever # of days till you get back to your boat!!   A thought.

Terry : After you have checked all of the items mentioned above and made sure that the injector pump is getting all the fuel it need; you might have a bad injection pump as I had. 
See my article in the Mainsheet Tech notes on the Injection Pump.  You have the same symptoms that I had.  A thought

77 : For a stock 55 amp alternator with an internal regulator, 13.7 v is about right. 
That's why many of us went to a Hi output alternator with a smart 3 stage voltage regulator.  Now we could sock amps back into the batteries in the shortest period of engine running time!!!   A thought