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Messages - Ron Hill

#6661
Joe : I've never seen a early C34 (86/87/88/89) with anything, but white anti skid seats and coaming in the cockpit area.  They usually only have colored antiskid on the cockpit floor and walkways on the sides. 
I have always used soft scrub with bleach on the cockpit seats, coaming and they still look great on my 1988 after all of these years.  A thought
#6662
Guys : ALL of the MKI C34s origionally came with an "A" Universal engine NOT a "B"!!! 
#6663
Main Message Board / Re: White Smoke from Engine
September 30, 2008, 06:43:59 PM
Steve : You can go by your local Kubota dealer and purchase a new set of injectors.  They'll cost about $60 each, but are easy to change and your 20+yr old engine deserves them.  I wrote a couple of Mainsheet tech note articles on how to change them. 
You'll be surprised at the increased performance.
#6664
Guys : Beside the fuel pump bracket there's also an important modification for the added sleeve on the raw water pump shaft - for those same engines!  Just a reminder!!
#6665
Main Message Board / Re: White Smoke from Engine
September 28, 2008, 05:21:19 PM
Steve : Ray's analysis is "Right ON". 
#6666
Main Message Board / Re: White Smoke from Engine
September 27, 2008, 05:21:06 PM
Guys : Anytime you have a mechanic run a compression check - make damn sure the raw water thru hull is turned OFF!!  Otherwise you'll fill up the muffler and the raw water can/will flow into the cylinders.  This will screw up the engine - big time!!
#6667
Main Message Board / Re: hot water heater question
September 27, 2008, 07:36:07 AM
Kerk : The pressuer relief valve should be OK, if the gasket reseated.  Some times the old gaskets will not reseal.
Use your shop vac and suck the water out of the heater(open one of the hot water faucets).
#6668
Joe : If your deck is gray and you only need a touch up - there's a model paint called Voodoo Gray that will match.  It goes on as a gloss, but looses it's shine in a few weeks.  Color matches. 
#6669
Main Message Board / Re: Fused wire to Starter
September 22, 2008, 06:50:57 PM
Tom : Surprisingly, I just had to put in a new starter fuse solenoid holder this last week for the same reason.  The vibration of 20 years had the wire on one end break off!!  Some what of a bear to repair, without removing the alternator, but it got done. 
#6670
Cliff : If anyone doesn't have the "shorter recessed track cars" it's a simple matter to mount them:
Take off all the old stuff from the recessed track.  If you need a midship cleat - install a Shaffer 8" 1 1/4" track cleat.  Then remove the nuts from the aft 3 cleat screws.  Make a small wedge out of oak and drive it under the aft portion of the track until it's the height of the new car system track.  Just align them and slide the car system on.  Remove the wedges, Re-caulk those 3 screws and tighten them down. 
Easy as that!!!
#6671
Main Message Board / Re: Wiring Continued
September 19, 2008, 06:37:27 PM
hump : The printed circuit board on the back of the water temp gage (looks/shaped like a dog house) is the hi temp alarm for the water temperature.  It takes an analog signal and converts to digital and sound the alarm when the analog needle goes above 200 F.
It sound to me as though you have a short of ground to sender on that temp alarm.  This will cause it to sound with out actually having hi temp.  
I have a "press to test" switch I installed on mine.  When I test, it completes a circuit from ground to sender - the temp needle goes/pegs to the right and the audio sounds.
This has NOTHING to do with the oil alarm system.  Hope this helps
#6672
Main Message Board / Re: oil alarm and sender
September 19, 2008, 06:21:51 PM
Dick : The way the original  M25XP came is with an oil pressure switch that was connected to an audio alarm.  If you also have a sender that sends to a psi gage, it's something that a previous owner installed.
Not too sure what the "4in. by 1/8in. stalk" is that you are talking about ??

I'll guess that the simplest way to solve your problem is to go back to the original switch that sounds the audio alarm when there is low/no oil pressure.  I also wired in a light so with no/low oil pressuer I get both an audio and light alert.  Your local Kubota dealer can sell you a switch at the lowest cost. 
I've written at least one article on that oil pressure switch in the Mainsheet Tech notes. 
#6673
Main Message Board / Re: Wiring Continued
September 18, 2008, 07:27:36 PM
Hump : I don't believe that the orange /red from the alternator the runs the tach -should be attached to the starter solenoid post.  My tach wire goes back to the engine panel.  You should also have a yellow/red fused wire from the started solenoid itself to that post with the other + wires (red from the battery, red from the engine panel and orange from the alternator). 
It sure would be nice if you posted (again )your engine model and boat production year.
#6674
Mike : I've professed your second solution with a hand pump for many years.
That hand pump is also great for pulling water(prime) up to the raw water pump after changing an impeller or sucking out transmission fluid.  These are but 2 of the many uses I can immediately think of for that handy Par pump. 
#6675
Main Message Board / Re: Planetary Alignment
September 15, 2008, 07:27:35 PM
Steve : Look in your owners manual and there's a page 5.2 that shows a C34 in a cradle with all of the cradle dimensions.  The first year my C34 was put in the water (1989) from winter storage it was in that shipping cradle and the cradle w/boat were lifted by a fork lift. 
So I don't see any reason that that cradle w/boat couldn't be lifted on to a ship!!!