Messages

Justin : Not too sure if this suggestion will work or not?? 

If you have that broken piece see if you can put it back in place and make a single wrap of fiberglass mat around it ending with the joint on the top. Then wet that mat with glass and let it set.

The reason I' said it "might" work is because you'll need to get the rubber log over your repair so you can clamp it in place. you probably will need to file/sand that joint smooth. You might be able to use a heat gun to soften the rubber log and slide it over the repaired "donkey dick" (PVC pipe)??

It might be worth a try??

A few thoughts

Justin : How about a picture of what that shaft/log looks like now. 

Also always give your production year and hull # so we can give you the best answer!!

A few thoughts

She : Read the Friggen Question!! Sorry for my diet-tribe on the winch on the mast!!
I'll guess that's On the boom - it was for the outhaul?

I have a "pigtail" on the goose neck for the reefing of the mast for the Mainsail Kringle!!

A few thoughts

She : That winch is NOT standard.  It was added by a Previous Owner to Raise the Mainsail!! Then (once raised) the PO must have taken that main halyard and secured it!!  (to a cleat? or rope stopper? on the mast? or back in the cockpit by the #30 small winch [starboard overhead deck] ??)

Please add you hull# and production year so we can best answer your questions!!

A few thoughts

Rick : There are at least two ways to pull the mast that I know of.

The first time I went into the travel lift slip (in the water) and we pulled it mast with a forklift!! The second time we pulled the mast (boat on land) with the travel lift. 

Yours being deck stepped is one heck of a lot easier to pull than a keel stepped mast!!!!!!

A few thoughts

Aaron : The last time you worked on the injectors - did you have a leak?? probably NOT. The amount of pressure put out by the injection pump the VERY high so fuel will immediately leak or not just slowly leak!!

I'd do the work and check for minor leakage when you get back in the water!!

A few thoughts

Rick : If you are going to have more work done (adding a new anchor light) I'd have the mast unstepped and put on saw horses. Then do all of the work at the same time. 
I finally had my mast pulled and added a Hinkley TV antenna, change the deck light/steaming light wire, changed the anchor light & its wiring.

You are going to have to join the wind wire thru the deck so might as well just remove the mast and get everything done at the same time!!

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Rick : You can do what I did, but you'll have to "lean" the mast to get the wind wire to join up with the other (inside the mast) wires!!
Another thought is to get a fork lift to lift the mast (slightly) to get at/join with the other wires!!

A thought - Good Luck!!

Aaron : I don't understand why you'll need to run the engine for any length of time to "work" on the injectors??

I've replaced the injectors and then checked for leaks the next time I ran the engine.

You could just run the engine with a bucket of water to check for leaks! I'll guess that the raw water pump will take about 45- 50 seconds to empty a 3 gal. bucket - Enough time to check for leaks!!

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Gulf : Would you believe - that I wrote an article in the August 1995 Mainsheet tech notes on your very question!!   

Great INFO in those old tech notes!!   

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[Snug does it]

Keel : No torque involved!!!  What you are trying to do is screw a bolt in the center of a soft metal end cap and compress a rubber seal around the outside. Snug does it and like Ken says if you keep screwing in the bolt you'll bend inward the center of the end cap!!   

A thought

dan : Disagree with you on the cause of the smile.  I talked to the factory many years ago and they recommend that the boat be blocked with 75% of the weight on the jack stands/cradle and 25% of the weight on the nose of the keel.  Also VERY important to get the jack stand pads on the bulkhead!!

A few thoughts

Noah : If you want to protect that new lens from the UV and crazing - make a sunbrella cover for it!  Easy to do. 

A thought

Keel : No sealant needed. I'd just tighten the bolt until it is snug!! Don't over tighten!!

A thought

Rees : You are all plumbed to either dump overboard or send to the holding tank.  I'd just replace the "Y" valve and keep that capability!! 

A thought