Messages

Steve
Looks good.  That's the same panel I bought at Catalina Direct.  Now I know what it will look like when installed.  On the area where you mounted the Blue Sea panel, what is the rectangular panel right next to the 120v plug.

I had them price up a new electrical panel for me a couple of months ago.  It was about 25% more than a stock panel I found on Catalina Direct but you can customize it any way you want which is nice.  I ended up going with the Catalina Direct panel due to pricing.

Claygr
I disconnected the hw line to the water heater and watched all the water/antifreeze mixture drain out into the bilge.  Also, both water tanks were drained and pulled out of the boat for a good cleaning so it has to be coming in from outside somewhere.
I used to have the same issue on my C-30.  It would sit uncovered in the summer through downpours without any water in the bilge.  In the winter, I'd put the cover on which tied off at the stanchions bases so 95% of the deck/cockpit was covered.  Would come down after a month to check on it and there would be 2-3" of water in the bilge.  Could never figure out where it came from.
This boat went through Hurricane Sandy, no water in the bilge.  Finally through a tarp over most of the deck and 2 weeks later, water in the bilge.  I can't figure it out.  I'll try the chalk idea.

Vent stanchions have been pulled and glassed over.  I re-routed the water tank vent to the v-berth.  Installed a new vent below the rub rail almost directly underneath the deck fill for the forward water tank.  Haven't gotten to the holding tank vent but it will be going out the hull below the rub rail also.
All hatches & ports are tight and leak free.
Cockpit was dry or at least no standing water, it was raining when I was onsite yesterday.  The main cabin was totally dry.  Was only down for a couple of minutes so I didn't have a chance to poke around too much.  Next time I'm down I'll get into the aft cabin and root around there.

Anyone have issues with the pedestal leaking.  On my C-30, the pedestal leaked.  Once I figured out it was leaking, I drilled some holes in the floor from the aft bunk.  Got almost a gallon of water out of voids in the floor.

Went down to the boat today and found 3-4" of water in the bilge.  I had sucked it dry about 2 weeks ago, it had water from the water heater in it when I disconnected the plumbing to the water heater.  Boat is on the hard.
Mast is out.  Mast hole is covered.  There is a tarp covering from the front hatch to the cabin opening and covers about half of the opening ports & windows on each side.  The tarp is 10'x20'.  Lays flat on the deck no frame.  Water heater is empty, water tanks are completely empty.  The new water in the bilge is clean/clear so I'm assuming it's rainwater.  Ports/windows don't appear to have leaked.  No noticeable water in the cabin anywhere.
Are there any known areas I could check for intrusion?  

Was able to take a swing by today.  Nuts on the end of the rods are 15/16".  The 15/16" ratcheting box wrench fit perfectly and works pretty well.  Should be able to tighten/loosed much quicker than the adjustable.

I couldn't get the adjustable to fit very well in the space.  Maybe I'll try the short handle.  I went out and bought a 15/16 and 1" box end wrench.  The 15/16 had a ratcheting side to it.  I'll let you know which size works next time I'm onsite.
Also, how much do you tighten the rods/nuts  I have the chainplates themselves in place and tightened.  I screwed the rods into the chainplates by hand as much as possible.  Re-tightening the nuts/rods, can I be worried about overtightening them?

Thanks but I meant the big nuts on the end of the rods that screw into the bottom of the chainplates.  They are located in the cubby spaces on the cabin seatbacks.

Anyone know the nut size on the ends of the chainplate rods.  Wanted to pick up a ratcheting box wrench before I went to the boat again.

I was at the boat today doing some work.  The 4 ports in the main cabin had leaked from rain the night before.  They haven't been leaking so I'm assuming when I removed the screens and gasket to re-install the chainplates, I didn't get the gasket on correctly.

I did notice that since the port is on an angle, there is always a bit of water collecting in the bottom exterior of the port.  I noticed there seems to be groove/weephole in the bottom of the exterior frame but with the angle of the window it doesn't allow the port to drain fully.  Is there a way to modify the groove/weephole so the water drains out rather than collecting?
Also, can the screens be removed permanently or are they needed for the gasket to seal properly?

Ken
What would be the purpose of the second battery switch?  Wouldn't the starting battery be wired into the 1,2,Both switch on the elec. panel?

I just re-bedded mine on my '86 a month ago.  There was a bit of rust on a couple that I was able to clean off.  Besides that, they are still in great condition.  It's not that big of a project, although my mast is down so I was able to all at the same time.  Once I figured out how the rods came loose, it was probably 1 hour to pull everything apart & epoxy, wait overnight, then another hour the next day to remount everything.

Has anyone installed small Norcold or equal fridge.  I'm going to get rid of the stove/oven and maybe put in a 1 burner portable cooktop.  In the vacant space below I was thinking of installing a fridge.  I don't think the refrigeration on the boat works. I need to get it tested.  The gentlemen I bought it from said someone looked at it a couple of years ago and it worked but needed freon.  If I can't get it working I plan on purchasing a new refrigeration unit.
My older C-30 just had an icebox.  I ended up installing a 12/120 v fridge.  During the week it would run on 120v shore power while at the slip.  It was nice to be able to leave drinks/food on board during the week rather than haul everything home each weekend.  During day sails, the fridge was usually large enough to hold whatever perishables we brought aboard.  During overnights, we usually had to pack the ice box with ice to hold the overflow of food/drinks.
Wondering if I would be better off installing the fridge and use it the same way as I did on my other boat or to just replace/repair the refrigeration unit and run it constantly?

May want to drain the water tanks and the holding tank.

I used the West System 2 part.  I'm usually not doing too much epoxying so I'll buy these 4oz bottles below and mix a little at a time for whatever I need.

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?productId=14974&catalogId=10001&langId=-1&storeId=11151&storeNum=50218&subdeptNum=50219&classNum=50220#.ULgLkIXXqHA

You may also want to look at the Six10.  Comes in a caulk gun tube.  Might be easier to fill the bolt holes.  I find when using the 2 part above, can sometimes get messy trying to get it into the plastic syringes to squirt in the holes.  After you fill the holes with the Six10, you could probably squirt a clump into a small cup and use a brush to coat the insides of the rectangular holes.

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?productId=14969&catalogId=10001&langId=-1&storeId=11151&storeNum=50218&subdeptNum=50219&classNum=50225#.ULgMDIXXqHA