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Messages - mregan

#466
I just did this project.  I located the vent right below the rub rail.  Where the vent comes up through the shelving in the cabin, I turned it towards the stern, poked it into the cabinet (where the plexiglass sliders are located) then out the hull.  I read some older threads here where a couple of people had done this.  Someone had mentioned you could put a clamshell cover over the vent thruhull facing the stern.  The water flowing over the clamshell would prevent water getting into the vent when heeled way over.  I figure I try it out this summer without the clamshell and see how it works.
#467
Main Message Board / Re: Screws in engine panel
April 23, 2013, 12:49:32 PM
Maybe epoxy the holes then re-drill.
#468
Anyone want a CNG tank and regulator for a CNG stove.  I removed the stove and don't need the tank it anymore.  Works fine.  Was holding 700 lbs of pressure before I emptied the tank today.  Free to whoever wants it.   I'd rather give it to someone local who can pick it up.  Located in RI.
#469
Main Message Board / Re: Observation
April 16, 2013, 09:36:15 AM
As a recent, former C-30 owner, I agree 100%.  The guys on the site are great and are very knowledgeable about the C-30.  But there is no database of repairs/issues like there are here.  I can't tell you how many times I've re-written my procedure for re-bedding the C-30 windows.
I like both sites for different reasons.  This site is great for the technical information provided and stored.  The C-30 site I find has more friendly banter back & forth.
#470
Main Message Board / Re: New Starting Battery
April 15, 2013, 11:06:15 AM
I thought the purpose of the starting battery was to use only for the engine.  If the house batteries were drained down, the starter battery would be un-affected so the engine could be started if need be.  I have mine wired this way.  I like knowing I always have a full battery to start the engine just in case I run the house batteries down too far.

Not to hijack the thread, but if the batteries are too drained down to start the engine, if I hook up a Honda generator to the shore power plug, will the engine start up right away or do the batteries need to charge first?
#471
Main Message Board / Re: swim platform added
April 10, 2013, 07:45:28 AM
Patrice
I built a swim platform last year on my C-30.  Had some SS tubing laying around so I welded up a frame.   I used Trex (composite decking) for the platform.  It was inexpensive compared to teak.  Bolted it through the transom and added 1/8" ss cables.  One end of the cable bolted to the platform other side wrapped around the backstays.  Helps take the weight when someone was on the platform.  If I had kept the boat, I would have removed the Trex and installed some new Trex but shape it more to flow with the boat.  I was rushing to get the platform completed before I put it in the water last season so I just cut some straight pieces and screwed them on the frame.  Didn't like the way it struck straight off the boat.
Couple of things I would do differently if making another.  Would try to have some supports underneath so I could get rid of the cables.  Also, would mount it when the boat was in the water.  The platform was level on land, unfortunately the boat wasn't.  I had figured for this but not enough so the platform sloped down slightly.
It was great having the platform to get in and out of the dinghy and when the kids were swimming.  They usually fight on the ladder so it was nice one could be on the platform while the owner was on the ladder.
#472
Main Message Board / Re: 2013 Officers Meeting Notes
March 29, 2013, 12:21:42 PM
If you really need to get rid of the extra cash, I'd be more than willing to take some of it.  Just to help out the association of course.  :D :D
#473
Main Message Board / Shaft size
March 20, 2013, 03:11:52 PM
Anyone happen to know the shaft size on the MK I.  I'm going to the Defender sale tomorrow and wanted to pick up a bunch of zincs.
#474
Main Message Board / Re: Insulating the Ice Box
March 15, 2013, 05:44:00 PM
Ron
I got all sides covered.  Like mentioned above, I used expandable foam to fill the starboard side, stern side & bottom.  There was a 2-2 1/2" gap between the bow side and the fiberglassed back of the dinette seating.  Used a combination of 2" styrofoam board and expandable foam.  On the port side facing the 3 drawers, I sprayed expandable foam on the back of 2" styrofoam board, then pressed that against the ice box.  The side of the icebox isn't flat so I figured the foam would fill in any gaps between the icebox and styrofoam board.  Also wrapped a piece of a plastic grocery bag around the drain fitting.  This way if I ever need to remove it, it won't be stuck to the foam.
Just purchased a new Engel refrigeration unit.  Hopefully will get installed next week.
I made a new countertop also.  Re-used the ice box top but it is slightly warped so it doesn't sit flush in the cutout in the countertop.  I plan on installing hinges on the back side and a latch on the front.  Looks similiar to the original latch but it locks in place.  This will keep the hatch secured and sitting flush.  If I can, I'm hoping to install a thin rubber gasket on the underside of the ice box top to get a better seal when it's shut.  I think once I'm done, I'll have a pretty well insulated ice box.
I'll post pictures when I finally get it installed.
#475
Main Message Board / Re: Raw Water System Failure
March 03, 2013, 03:35:30 PM
On another forum, someone discovered their exhaust hose had de-laminated internally and was blocking the water from exhausting properly.  Maybe something to look at?
#476
I think the new Cetol has better UV inhibitors so it doesn't turn the orange color anymore.
#477
Main Message Board / Insulating the Ice Box
February 24, 2013, 05:32:53 PM
Insulated the ice box on my 1986 yesterday.  Still have a bit more to do but got all the hard spots filled.  I had pulled the countertops off to make new ones so I had the bare fiberglass underneath the countertop to drill holes around the voids on the sides and back of the ice box.  I found out, the top 2" or so all around the box was already filled with spray foam from the factory.  Everything below had no insulation. 
I had pulled out the 3 drawers and frame to get better access.  Between the icebox and oven side there is a 1" gap.  I had already removed the oven so I drilled a bunch of holes in the side and injected the foam.  To get to the back, I drilled a couple of holes along the top almost against the hull.   This let me gain access to the back area.  There looked to be a 2-3" gap there.  The bottom I was able to get at when I removed the 3 drawers as well as 2 sides of the ice box facing the 3 drawers and the dinette seating.  These to open sides I need to finish insulating. 
I ran out of foam.  I had bought 2 2-part mix containers of spray foam.  Comes as a kit.  There are 2 containers attached with a hose an nozzle.  It handles 12 board feet.  12 sq ft x 1" thick.  Used up both of these then ran out and bought 6 cans of spray foam at Lowes.  The two open sides I plan in spray foaming 1 side of 2" thick styrofoam board then press the board against the ice box.  If you just spray the foam on the side of the box the weight of it makes it fall off.  Figure if I spray it on the styrofoam then press that against the ice box, it will fil in any gaps along the icebox.
#478
Main Message Board / Refrigeration compressor noise
February 20, 2013, 09:27:02 AM
I'm replacing my refrigeration unit on my 1986.  The compressor is currently located in the stern lazzarete.  Is this a good spot for the replacement compressor?  I read up on some old threads.  Another location would be under the dinette seating.  Looks like I'd have to cut in ventilation grilles for this location.  Wondering on the noise of the compressor as it cycles at night.  Are the units noisy?  Only comparison I have is the 12v refrigerator on my C-30.  Used to make a humming noise when running.
#479
Bob
If you want to pm me your email, i'll email you the Practical Sailor article.  It was too large to post.
#480
I re-finished all the brightwork on my C-30 with Cetol.  3-4 coats of Cetol Natural Teak then 3-4 coats of Cetol Gloss.  Practical Sailor had an article a couple of years ago comparing several coatings for a year.  Cetol came out near the top.  Nice thing is every year you can add a coat without any sanding.  Just clean off the teak and add another coat.  Supposedly it won't turn orange like the older Cetol used to.  I've had it on for 3 years now.  Still looks good and I've never done the yearly touch-up.
I pulled off all the exterior teak and re-finished at home over the winter.  Handrails were the worst to do and re-install.  I was thinking on my C-34 to replace with stainless.  Also, I think Plas-teak makes handrails in teak color and white.  Maintenance free, although I don't like the look of the Plas-teak.  Really looks fake but the white don't look too bad.