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Messages - mregan

Pages: 1 2 [3] 4 5 ... 34
31
Main Message Board / Re: Replacing oil pressure switch
« on: July 01, 2017, 03:48:47 AM »
Got a Faria Euro tach.  0-4000.  Said it was good for diesel.

32
Main Message Board / Re: Replacing oil pressure switch
« on: June 30, 2017, 05:30:05 PM »
Thanks Ken.  Thanks for all your help on everything. New tach came in today so hopefully will get that issue fixed tomorrow.

33
I replaced all my countertops when I bought my boat 4 years ago.  All had water damage from the stanchion vents.  I used plywood and formica. But I used a formica with a granite looking pattern on it. Used the old countertops as templates.  Came out pretty well.

34
Main Message Board / Replacing oil pressure switch
« on: June 30, 2017, 12:22:19 PM »
I think need to replace my oil pressure switch.  Engine buzzer stopped working.  When I put the buzzer to ground it works.  When it's connected back to the oil wire, nothing.  Wire is good, put a new one in 2 years ago but connected to about 6" of the old wire since it's in such a tight spot.  Hard to get to the switch on the engine block.  Was trying to unscrew the wire from the switch but the screw is very rusted and the wire terminal seems to have rusted to it.  When trying to unscrew the screw holding he wire, the wire spins with it.
When I remove the switch do I need to worry about oil spraying out?  Its an M25.

35
Main Message Board / Re: Restoring exterior teak
« on: June 03, 2017, 12:23:09 AM »
I did this as a winter project.  Pulled off all the exterior teak.  Used a heat gun and scraper to get most of the old varnish off.  Then sanded the rest to get a smooth finish.  I then used Cetol Marine Natural Teak.  I believe 4-5 coats, then the Cetol Gloss.  Another 4-5 coats.  Whatever was recommended on the can.  Mine has held up pretty well.  Going on my 4th season and it all still looks pretty good.    I did make sunbrella covers for the handrails.  They were the biggest pain to strip. 

36
Main Message Board / Re: Waxing / restoring gel coat
« on: June 01, 2017, 05:01:27 AM »
 I use a combination of a 10" orbital and a variable speed power buffer on the hull. Will use the orbital to apply the wax and once dry, to take off the majority of the wax. Then will go over it with the power buffer and take the rest of the wax off.  Find the power buffer gives it a better shine.  Also works better if there is a lot of oxidation.  It is heavy though. 
I bought a cordless 6" buffer for the topsides.  Got it a Home Depot.  Works okay.  Gives me something to do when I'm at anchor and bored plus it's small enough to get around the topsides better than the other two bigger ones.
I tried the hand waxing and buffing on the hull one time.  Felt like Danielson in Karate Kid after washing and waxing Mr. Miagee's cars all day.  I thought my arms were going to fall off.

37
Main Message Board / Re: Catalina Direct Bimini
« on: May 23, 2017, 05:24:34 PM »
I'd buy local with the dodger.  Like I mentioned above, you could go mass production on the bimini.  I think the bimini is a bit more forgiving if you don't get the measurements exact.   Whereas if your dimensions are off with the dodger, it's much harder to get it to work correctly.  I screwed up the dimensions a bit on my bimini on my C-30 but by modifying the frame a bit I was able to get it to work.   Learned from my mistakes when ordering my C-34 bimini.
I'd also recommend a joiner piece between the dodger and bimini.  Helps quite a bit with the shading in the cockpit when installed.

38
Main Message Board / Re: Catalina Direct Bimini
« on: May 19, 2017, 05:32:15 PM »
I bought one from the catalinaowners.com website a couple of years ago and am pleased with it.  I bought the rail mount bimini.  No straps, all rigid tubing. My local canvas guy said it was a pretty good deal for the price and good quality.

39
Main Message Board / Re: Engine Panel Alarms
« on: May 03, 2017, 08:04:24 AM »
Just did a search of tapping a new hole in the temp housing.  Someone had previously mentioned removing the pet cock and installed the temp alarm in the pet cock hole.  I'm going to take a look at mine.  Wondering if you could pull the petcock, install a T fitting and re-install the pet cock and put the temp alarm on the other side of the T.

40
Main Message Board / Re: Engine Panel Alarms
« on: May 03, 2017, 07:50:13 AM »
Ben
If you don't have the temp alarm switch in the thermostat housing (my M-25 (1986) doesn't) I think you need the dog house control board.  From what Ron mentioned and what I could find online, the control board converted the temp signal somehow and it would act like a high temp alarm switch and it allowed the one buzzer to act as a high temp alarm buzzer and low oil pressure buzzer.  If you had to go with 2 buzzers, you need the additional temp alarm switch in the t-stat housing.

41
Main Message Board / Re: replacing solar vents
« on: May 01, 2017, 10:28:13 AM »
I replaced one of mine with the 4".  Used a jig saw to open the hole a bit to fit the new vent.  I bedded the vent with butyl gasket material. 

42
Main Message Board / Re: Engine Panel Alarms
« on: May 01, 2017, 06:21:52 AM »
Ron
I do have the dog house panel.  That explains part of the wiring confusion. My other problem is some of the labels I attached to the wiring fell off so I can't figure out how to wire the buzzer to both alarms.  When the new panel came in, I pulled all the gauges off the old panel and installed them on the new.   All the diagrams I can find show the 2 separate buzzers.

43
Main Message Board / Engine Panel Alarms
« on: April 30, 2017, 03:41:55 AM »
Did the '86 have a low oil pressure alarm and a high engine temp alarm.  I replaced the panel this winter (kept all the gauges)  Marked everything on the back of the panel and what I disconnected on the boat.  Was there today.  Got everything wired up but the alarm.  I realized I only had one alarm and some small circuit board that was wired into the alarm.  Was getting confused how to wire the alarm and the low oil pressure light and engine alarm light (lights never worked on the old panel)  Looked at the wiring diagram I had from the alternator to volt meter change.  Showed 2 alarms buzzers.  Was looking on Catalina direct and they made mention that boats before 1990 didn't have a high temp alarm, only low oil but there is a part you can buy for the engine to add a high temp alarm.  Will check tomorrow to see if PO had installed that part.  If not, I'm assuming I wire the alarm to the low oil pressure.  If that's the case, what would turn on the high engine temp light on the panel?

44
Main Message Board / Re: Trimming Beckson Ports
« on: March 30, 2017, 01:27:46 PM »
Like Stu said, they are angled so even if you cut them down, I don't see how it's going to help on the drainage much.  The way they are built they will always catch some water.  If I was going to cut down any, it would be the 2 in the cockpit.  Seem to catch the ankles on them a couple times each season.

45
Main Message Board / Re: All in One Solar
« on: March 22, 2017, 12:12:35 PM »
I added 2-100w flexible panels last year.  I bought a kit from somewhere.  I can't remember.  Believe it was about $300-$400.  Put the panels on the bimini.  We are mostly weekend sailors.  Do the occasional 3-4 trip 1-2 times a summer. 
On a 4 day trip last summer, running the fridge the whole time, radio, charging 2 phones, lights at night.  We didn't have to run the engine at all.  On the 4th day, I think we were at 12.4v or 12.35v.  And we weren't being stingy with the energy usage. 
It was nice not having to worry about the batteries the whole weekend.

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