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Messages - mregan

Pages: 1 2 [3] 4 5 ... 34
Main Message Board / Re: Replacing oil pressure switch
« on: July 09, 2017, 03:32:22 PM »
Was at the boat today.  Bought a 15/16" socket to remove the old switch.  Checked the size on the new one first to make sure 15/16" was correct.  First tried to use the 7mm to remove the small screw.  Either it's not a hex head or it's stripped because the 7 didn't fit.  Tried a 6 & 5 and no luck.  By bending back and forth was able to snap the remaining wire which was rusted to the screw.  Went to put on the large socket.  Doesn't fit.  It's a long socket.  Can't tell if it's hitting the engine manifold and won't go on straight or it's too small.  Looking at the switch it's looks a bit different than the Kubota replacement I bought.  The section the socket fits on looks about the same but the small black section in front, where the screw goes in, looks longer than the kubota type.  As a whole it looks bigger than the replacement.  I don't think if it is 15/16" I'd be able to get a short socket on it.  I think the screw in section on the front is too long and wouldn't allow the short socket on enough. Any thoughts?  This thing is driving me nuts.

Main Message Board / Re: Replacing oil pressure switch
« on: July 06, 2017, 09:48:32 AM »
Sorry my confusion was going off my memory of the old thread.  So if your engine had that hose, did you have to tap/thread the engine block to add the oil switch to the block? 

I was looking at the manual, mainly on the picture of both sides of the engine where it has the arrows & labels of the various parts of the engine.  Didn't see the hose in the picture and there is no mention of the oil pressure switch either on the hose or on the block.  That was throwing me for a loop originally.

Main Message Board / Re: Replacing oil pressure switch
« on: July 06, 2017, 08:30:52 AM »
Found your tech notes article.  I believe you mentioned 7mm socket to get the screw off.  Just picked up the new oil pressure switch so I can measure the screw size on it.  Tough to see it's hex shaped where it's located on the engine.  Mostly using a mirror to try to see the switch as I'm trying to unscrew it.

Saw an older thread on the oil pressure switch where you mentioned the original M25 had a hose from the rear of the engine with the oil pressure switch stuck in the end of the hose.  I need to look at the rear of the engine but I have a hose that comes from the rear of the engine and is just hanging by the side of the engin.  There is a snapped off fitting on the end.  Nothing has ever come out of the hose and could never find a broken fitting that would match up with the hose so I've just left it as is.  Will try to take some pictures of where it attaches to the engine.  Maybe someone will be able to figure out what it is.

Main Message Board / Re: Replacing oil pressure switch
« on: July 01, 2017, 03:48:47 AM »
Got a Faria Euro tach.  0-4000.  Said it was good for diesel.

Main Message Board / Re: Replacing oil pressure switch
« on: June 30, 2017, 05:30:05 PM »
Thanks Ken.  Thanks for all your help on everything. New tach came in today so hopefully will get that issue fixed tomorrow.

I replaced all my countertops when I bought my boat 4 years ago.  All had water damage from the stanchion vents.  I used plywood and formica. But I used a formica with a granite looking pattern on it. Used the old countertops as templates.  Came out pretty well.

Main Message Board / Replacing oil pressure switch
« on: June 30, 2017, 12:22:19 PM »
I think need to replace my oil pressure switch.  Engine buzzer stopped working.  When I put the buzzer to ground it works.  When it's connected back to the oil wire, nothing.  Wire is good, put a new one in 2 years ago but connected to about 6" of the old wire since it's in such a tight spot.  Hard to get to the switch on the engine block.  Was trying to unscrew the wire from the switch but the screw is very rusted and the wire terminal seems to have rusted to it.  When trying to unscrew the screw holding he wire, the wire spins with it.
When I remove the switch do I need to worry about oil spraying out?  Its an M25.

Main Message Board / Re: Restoring exterior teak
« on: June 03, 2017, 12:23:09 AM »
I did this as a winter project.  Pulled off all the exterior teak.  Used a heat gun and scraper to get most of the old varnish off.  Then sanded the rest to get a smooth finish.  I then used Cetol Marine Natural Teak.  I believe 4-5 coats, then the Cetol Gloss.  Another 4-5 coats.  Whatever was recommended on the can.  Mine has held up pretty well.  Going on my 4th season and it all still looks pretty good.    I did make sunbrella covers for the handrails.  They were the biggest pain to strip. 

Main Message Board / Re: Waxing / restoring gel coat
« on: June 01, 2017, 05:01:27 AM »
 I use a combination of a 10" orbital and a variable speed power buffer on the hull. Will use the orbital to apply the wax and once dry, to take off the majority of the wax. Then will go over it with the power buffer and take the rest of the wax off.  Find the power buffer gives it a better shine.  Also works better if there is a lot of oxidation.  It is heavy though. 
I bought a cordless 6" buffer for the topsides.  Got it a Home Depot.  Works okay.  Gives me something to do when I'm at anchor and bored plus it's small enough to get around the topsides better than the other two bigger ones.
I tried the hand waxing and buffing on the hull one time.  Felt like Danielson in Karate Kid after washing and waxing Mr. Miagee's cars all day.  I thought my arms were going to fall off.

Main Message Board / Re: Catalina Direct Bimini
« on: May 23, 2017, 05:24:34 PM »
I'd buy local with the dodger.  Like I mentioned above, you could go mass production on the bimini.  I think the bimini is a bit more forgiving if you don't get the measurements exact.   Whereas if your dimensions are off with the dodger, it's much harder to get it to work correctly.  I screwed up the dimensions a bit on my bimini on my C-30 but by modifying the frame a bit I was able to get it to work.   Learned from my mistakes when ordering my C-34 bimini.
I'd also recommend a joiner piece between the dodger and bimini.  Helps quite a bit with the shading in the cockpit when installed.

Main Message Board / Re: Catalina Direct Bimini
« on: May 19, 2017, 05:32:15 PM »
I bought one from the website a couple of years ago and am pleased with it.  I bought the rail mount bimini.  No straps, all rigid tubing. My local canvas guy said it was a pretty good deal for the price and good quality.

Main Message Board / Re: Engine Panel Alarms
« on: May 03, 2017, 08:04:24 AM »
Just did a search of tapping a new hole in the temp housing.  Someone had previously mentioned removing the pet cock and installed the temp alarm in the pet cock hole.  I'm going to take a look at mine.  Wondering if you could pull the petcock, install a T fitting and re-install the pet cock and put the temp alarm on the other side of the T.

Main Message Board / Re: Engine Panel Alarms
« on: May 03, 2017, 07:50:13 AM »
If you don't have the temp alarm switch in the thermostat housing (my M-25 (1986) doesn't) I think you need the dog house control board.  From what Ron mentioned and what I could find online, the control board converted the temp signal somehow and it would act like a high temp alarm switch and it allowed the one buzzer to act as a high temp alarm buzzer and low oil pressure buzzer.  If you had to go with 2 buzzers, you need the additional temp alarm switch in the t-stat housing.

Main Message Board / Re: replacing solar vents
« on: May 01, 2017, 10:28:13 AM »
I replaced one of mine with the 4".  Used a jig saw to open the hole a bit to fit the new vent.  I bedded the vent with butyl gasket material. 

Main Message Board / Re: Engine Panel Alarms
« on: May 01, 2017, 06:21:52 AM »
I do have the dog house panel.  That explains part of the wiring confusion. My other problem is some of the labels I attached to the wiring fell off so I can't figure out how to wire the buzzer to both alarms.  When the new panel came in, I pulled all the gauges off the old panel and installed them on the new.   All the diagrams I can find show the 2 separate buzzers.

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