Messages

There are many ways to do it. It just depends on Stu's question - where is it?

Back to the topic at hand...
When I installed the A/C in Kitty's Cat (16k btu), I ran a 4" line down the port side into the head. From there, I t'd it and ran a length to the foot of the aft cabin. Works great! This summer, I installed a 4", in line, duct-fan to force more cool air back there. I hard wired that into an extra breaker on my 120vac panel. So, we can actually use the fan alone without the a/c running.  I have also installed a couple of 12v fans back there. Is it perfect? No. However, one can sleep back there in a Florida summer in relative comfort.

I would SERIOUSLY rethink that location.
1. Anchor locker is damp anyway from rain intrusion.
2. When in high seas, any wave over the bow will get into the anchor locker. If it's saltwater, you know what that means.

Just my 2 cents.

Welcome to the herd of cats!
I second Ron's post and would also suggest that you add your home port. You never know when someone is close by that may be able to help out or, just get together and tell sea stories. The difference between a sea story and a fairy tale is that a Fairy tale begins with... once upon a time. The sea story begins.... there I was, no fecal matter, thought I was going to die!

Small.

Stu, I have to disagree with drilling outboard below the rub rail. The reason is that it isn't unusual to put a rub rail in the water when on a good run or a storm. Imagine salt water being forced in the lower vent hole.....

I recently had a similar issue. My steps:
1) You've done many of them already.
2) (New ideas) Make sure your coolant level is full. Mine was a wee bit low.
3) Also, this might be a good time to replace your thermostat. At least tap it when it starts getting over the 165 - 170 degree range.

OMG, this discussion again? ;) Technically - no. However, based on loading and whether you're under power, the rudder MAY extend below the wing keel. We have a wing keel. Here in NW Florida, it is needed.

We recently purchased the new Raritan to replace our electric Raritan (Never go back to electric again). We both love how well it operates.

James,
We own a Mk I. I would look at the Mk II, if money is not an issue, for 2 reasons.

1) You get the final, evolved sugar scoop.
2) It is beamier in the stern which makes for a roomier cockpit.

I am a medical product of being a paratrooper - knees, shoulder and back are shot. Both Kitty and I are avid snorkelers. So we are up and down the swim ladder all the time. Or, we are taking the dogs to shore in the dinghy. All of that is so much easier in the later versions of the Mk I's (I.25 & I.5) after they introduced the sugar scoop and later, the walk through transom.

Just my thoughts.

We've had our boat for 7 years and except for sailing or transport, it has always been plugged in. If you don't keep your fridge or AC on, it shouldn't be an issue to unplug.

If you watch most Catalina boats, they squat when under power. It happens on my Mk I; but, obviously doesn't come into the cockpit. When I went to a 2 bladed prop, it was less. Now that I am back to a 3 bladed prop, it has returned to the lower squat. Simple physics.

Ron,
That makes total sense.

Hummmmm. I have noted that the rudder IS deeper than the keel. The few times I have grounded Kitty's Cat (At very slow speed and in sand), the rudder is the first to ground. We were once grounded at low tide, in sand, the boat was level with the rudder in the slightly deeper water. It was about 3" in the sand.

Ben,
I have grouped my line coding to specific sails. All the Main lines are either solid or red tic, Jib Blue or blue tic and Spin is Black or black ticked.