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Messages - Jack Hutteball

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31
Randy,

I replaced my water heater a couple of months ago as i could not stop an engine coolant leak from the tank.  I had all the batteries and heater out.  On our boat there are 3 boards there, two butted together and a third under the joint that makes up the floor under the settee/sink cabinet.  Then there is a separate board just under the water heater screwed down on top of that.  The way the ends of the floor boards were cut in round shapes on the inboard end felt to me like they were just put together out of scrap material.  Unfortunately I did not take pictures while i had everything apart.

Jack

32
Main Message Board / Re: Tack problem
« on: July 12, 2015, 05:08:55 PM »
Thanks Ron, I remember your article on that now, but I had forgotten about it.  That will go to the top of my list.
Jack

33
Main Message Board / Re: Tack problem
« on: July 11, 2015, 09:55:01 PM »
Thank you Stu.  Gave me the areas to check connections.  Did that and everything looked clean.  Needle still stuck with power off.  Fellow boater said he had tack problems and thought my problem is probably corrosion inside the meter as he has had the problem on his Island Packet.  Tapped the back of the tack several times, turned on the key, and the tack went to 0!  Turned the key on and off and it stayed at 0.  Ran the engine rpm's up above where the tack was stuck and it hesitated at the spot coming back down, but did return to idle ok.  Tapped the back of the tack several more times and now it seems to be working without a hitch at all rpm's.  I know there is moisture inside the gauge as it always condenses on the glass on all my meters after the lights are on for a few minutes.  At this point I will just watch and see what happens.

Jack

34
Main Message Board / Re: Tack problem
« on: July 10, 2015, 10:29:28 AM »
The alternator is working as I see 14 volts on the volt meter on the panel, so also assume the regulator is doing it's job.  Does not seem like there is any wiring on the front and sides of the engine I was working on.  There is a bundle of wiring that comes across the back of the engine that goes to the fuel pump that I may have jostled while getting the funnel into place to refill the transmission.  Will check in that area and open the panel and check the back of the tack.

Jack


35
Main Message Board / Tack problem
« on: July 09, 2015, 08:54:59 PM »
I spent the day changing all the oil, oil filter, fuel filters, and transmission fluid... fun day.  Ran the engine in gear for about 20 minutes to make sure that everything was operating correctly and no leaks anywhere.  Set the engine rpm's about 1500 and let it run while I checked and cleaned things up.  When I went to shut off the engine I noticed the tack was reading 2800 which was a surprise, as the engine speed had not changed.  When I throttled back the tac stayed at 2800.  IF I throttle up the tack would go above 2800, but then stop at 2800 as I throttled back to the lowest speed.  Turned the engine and key off and the tack stayed ay 2800.  Tapping on the glass resulted in no change.  I started and stopped the engine several times, same result.  All the other gages are working fine.

Broken tack?  I assume that if it is an electrical problem the needle would return to 0 with everything off.

Jack Hutteball
Mariah lll

36
Main Message Board / Re: Water Heater Issue
« on: June 23, 2015, 10:37:58 AM »
On our C34 there is a check valve in the fresh water line to the hot water tank so the water can flow thru the tank only one way.  Possible that you are getting a mix of cold and hot if it is running through the tank backwards.  Not sure if your system is plumbed the same way.

Jack

37
Main Message Board / Re: Fiberglass hard top dodger finish
« on: June 23, 2015, 07:54:25 AM »
Have seen the polyglow before, thought there might be something like an automobile clear coat.  All new cars have plastic front and rear plastic "bumpers" that stay looking as good as the metal paint finish.
Jack

38
Main Message Board / Fiberglass hard top dodger finish
« on: June 22, 2015, 10:14:08 PM »
We have a dark blue fiberglass hardtop dodger on our C34, which is a pain to keep looking good.  After 14 years it has oxidized enough that it is going to take a mild rubbing compound and waxing to bring it back to top shape, then continual waxing as before.  Is there some "clear coat" finish that I could spray on, like an automobile clear coat finish that would eliminate the continual waxing?  Would it be better to clean it up and paint it with a hard shell epoxy paint?  Would appreciate any experience others have had with a similar top.  I know, should have purchased white like manufacturer recommended. :?

39
Main Message Board / Re: Seaward water heater connection
« on: June 13, 2015, 04:04:00 PM »
Ken, that is what I found on my internet search.

Thanks,
Jack

40
Main Message Board / Re: Seaward water heater connection
« on: June 13, 2015, 09:04:06 AM »
Thanks all,  Think I will just be wrestling the thing outa there and fit in a new one.  Off to research the best price...

Jack

41
Main Message Board / Re: Seaward water heater connection
« on: June 12, 2015, 07:11:13 PM »
Jim, where was your tank leaking, fresh water or coolant?  Mine seems fine except for the coolant leak.  I am sure it is about time, but I am baffled about why/how the thing is leaking.
Jack

42
Main Message Board / Re: Seaward water heater connection
« on: June 12, 2015, 02:36:49 PM »
It is definitely coolant leaking.  The coolant tubes connection into the tank itself are barbs just pushed in?  Is there some kind of seal or rubber/flexible fitting?


43
Main Message Board / Seaward water heater connection
« on: June 12, 2015, 01:43:50 PM »
I have a leak from one of the connections of the engine coolant hoses to the water heater on our MKll.  It is difficult to get at, having to remove both my battery banks, removing hold down screws and sliding the tank forward enough to tighten the hose clamp by feel(cant see it except with a mirror).  Did that, put it all back together... still leaks.  Did it all again and completely disconnected the coolant hose which looked bad on the end. Fun, with coolant going all over the place until I could get plugs in the hose and heater tube!  Cut off the end, added a new section of hose (of course after cutting it off it's too short!) connected with new hose clamps.  After putting it all back together and running the engine, I am still getting some weeping out of the bottom corner of the square metal tank enclosure.  Could possibly be residual coolant draining out of the tank enclosure after coolant pouring out from disconnecting the hose, but it has been 3 days.

Question, could there be a leak at the heat exchange tube going into the water tank?  What is that connection, welded, screwed in etc, as I can not see it without completely pulling the tank.  Any one had a similar problem?  Looks like a difficult operation to remove the tank in a MK ll.  Anyone done it?  I have the Seaward 6 gallon tank in the square enclosure with heat exchanger connections on the back.  Assume it is standard in the MK ll's.

Jack

44
I have been replacing my Sherwood about every 150 hours.  I know what I am doing next change!  :clap

45
Main Message Board / Re: Shower Sump Pump Not Working
« on: May 28, 2015, 07:40:05 PM »
One other comment I would make is to make sure that your thru hull for the shower/refer drain is open when you turn the pump on.  If it is closed you will overheat the pump and the breaker will shut off.  Been there and done that, makes one feel rather silly when the pump stops and the water level flows over the door sill onto the galley floor!

Jack

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