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Topics - Jack Hutteball

#1
Main Message Board / Shaefer 3100 headsail furler
June 17, 2020, 12:22:39 PM
For several years the furler has been getting more difficult to turn.  I thought I have been diligent about hosing it down after a sailing trip, but evidently not.  I remove my headsail for the winter every year and at the end of last season I had to almost turn it by hand to unfurl the sail. Now it feels like the bearings are square when I turn it by hand. (I have not installed the headsail this season) There is no way I can see to flush the bearings.  Any simple way to clean things up or is it simply time to have the bearing assembly replaced.  I have watched the Shaefer video on changing the bearings, not sure if I am up to that.

Jack
#2
Main Message Board / Mainsheet Articles
May 17, 2018, 06:02:51 PM
Does the Mainsheet seem a little "thin" these days?  Does it need more articles... more Tech Notes?  If so, opportunity abounds!

The Mainsheet Editor, Jim Holder,  is always looking fo articles that will pique the interest of not only C34 Owners, but the the broader Catalina Family as well.  You don't need to be a celebrated author to pen (you all have computers of course) an article that would be interesting to all the readers out there.  Editors will help smooth out any rough spots, you just need to keep the storyline going.

How about Destination Articles of your favorite cruising grounds.  Articles about lessons learned that will be valuable to all.  Close calls, it's OK to relate an experience, we have all been there!  Look through some of your past Mainsheets and see which articles interested you the most and use them as a guide for your own story.  I will bet there is an article within you that everyone would enjoy reading.

As a guideline, articles should be around 1000 to 1500 words, although some in the last issue were much longer than that.  It is good to have 4 to 5 photos to go along with the article.  These should be as high a resolution as as possible with whatever camera you have at hand. They don't have to be works of art, just sharp interesting photos related to the story.  No zooming with smart phone cameras as they are generally not sharp.

Don't forget Tech Articles!  There are many discussions on the forum about improvements or problems solved on our boats that would make great Tech Articles.  Note how many times someone asks for a picture and explanation of your project, the how to's and results.  No specific length for these, just try to be as detailed as needed so the reader can follow your procedure.  Include photos detailing the progress of the work that will help explain your method or progress.  "A picture is worth 1000 words!"

Last but not least, how about getting a great photo of your boat on the cover.  Jim is always looking for photos of our sailboats in action, with lots of color.  Note the great C34 photo on the Spring issue of Mainsheet.

Articles are due the 1st of March, June, September, and December for each of the Spring, Summer, Fall, and Winter issues. All general articles should be forwarded to me, and tech articles to John Nixon our tech editor.  Our emails are under the Association button on the website.  Feel free to contact me if you have any specific questions related to a potential article, I am here to help.

Jack Hutteball
C34 Associate Editor
#3
Main Message Board / Mainsheet cover photo
December 16, 2017, 07:07:01 PM
Here is a great opportunity to have one of your great photographs grace the next cover of Mainsheet.  I just received this from Jim Holder, the publisher:

"We don't have a good cover shot for the Spring issue and some of the best covers
have come from your association. Could you please pass the word for some possible
photos that would make a good cover, possibly something dramatic or a serene
sunset. We would really appreciate your efforts.
Thanks for your help,"
jim

It needs to be a high resolution photo, preferably in vertical format like the cover of the magazine.  I am sure you all have some good ones, probably of your boat.  Nice to get a good photo of our great 34's on the cover!

Get them to me at my email at c34captain@gmail.com in the next few days and I will submit them for consideration.

Jack Hutteball,
C34 Associate Editor
#4
Main Message Board / Tack problem
July 09, 2015, 08:54:59 PM
I spent the day changing all the oil, oil filter, fuel filters, and transmission fluid... fun day.  Ran the engine in gear for about 20 minutes to make sure that everything was operating correctly and no leaks anywhere.  Set the engine rpm's about 1500 and let it run while I checked and cleaned things up.  When I went to shut off the engine I noticed the tack was reading 2800 which was a surprise, as the engine speed had not changed.  When I throttled back the tac stayed at 2800.  IF I throttle up the tack would go above 2800, but then stop at 2800 as I throttled back to the lowest speed.  Turned the engine and key off and the tack stayed ay 2800.  Tapping on the glass resulted in no change.  I started and stopped the engine several times, same result.  All the other gages are working fine.

Broken tack?  I assume that if it is an electrical problem the needle would return to 0 with everything off.

Jack Hutteball
Mariah lll
#5
We have a dark blue fiberglass hardtop dodger on our C34, which is a pain to keep looking good.  After 14 years it has oxidized enough that it is going to take a mild rubbing compound and waxing to bring it back to top shape, then continual waxing as before.  Is there some "clear coat" finish that I could spray on, like an automobile clear coat finish that would eliminate the continual waxing?  Would it be better to clean it up and paint it with a hard shell epoxy paint?  Would appreciate any experience others have had with a similar top.  I know, should have purchased white like manufacturer recommended. :?
#6
I have a leak from one of the connections of the engine coolant hoses to the water heater on our MKll.  It is difficult to get at, having to remove both my battery banks, removing hold down screws and sliding the tank forward enough to tighten the hose clamp by feel(cant see it except with a mirror).  Did that, put it all back together... still leaks.  Did it all again and completely disconnected the coolant hose which looked bad on the end. Fun, with coolant going all over the place until I could get plugs in the hose and heater tube!  Cut off the end, added a new section of hose (of course after cutting it off it's too short!) connected with new hose clamps.  After putting it all back together and running the engine, I am still getting some weeping out of the bottom corner of the square metal tank enclosure.  Could possibly be residual coolant draining out of the tank enclosure after coolant pouring out from disconnecting the hose, but it has been 3 days.

Question, could there be a leak at the heat exchange tube going into the water tank?  What is that connection, welded, screwed in etc, as I can not see it without completely pulling the tank.  Any one had a similar problem?  Looks like a difficult operation to remove the tank in a MK ll.  Anyone done it?  I have the Seaward 6 gallon tank in the square enclosure with heat exchanger connections on the back.  Assume it is standard in the MK ll's.

Jack
#7
Main Message Board / Xantrex Truecharge 20
July 24, 2014, 06:08:23 PM
I took the advice on the board and replaced the Charles charger with a Xantrex Truecharge 20 right after we bought our boat in 2001, and it has worked flawlessly for the last 13 years. Kept my original 4d's going for 10 years, which seems good. 

Plugged in and turned it on after our trip and all i get is the 20 amp light flashing with no ready or recharging lights on or flashing.  Owners manual says this indicates overheating or underheat.  Batteries are cold to the touch, both banks.  (4 golf carts in house bank, and 1 - 12 volt start/reserve, all flooded)  I have checked all wiring and connections are clean and bright.  Fuses in the wires to the batteries are good.

Turning the unit on it goes thru it's start up cycle and just reverts to the 20A light flashing and no charging.  Tried disconnecting either or both battery banks, same thing.  Assuming at this point the charger is toast unless any of you have any other ideas.  Reading thru the info on chargers here I noted that starting with shore power and the charger on may kill the charger.  I may have done that as I was anxious to get going this year, but do not remember for sure.  I usually unplug prior to starting.

Time for replacement?  Looking at reviews for Xantrex chargers on West Marine site does not give me much confidence.  Should I be looking at something else if I need to replace?

Jack
#8
Main Message Board / LPG switch indicator light
July 20, 2014, 09:52:28 PM
About the middle of our 4 week trip to Desolation Sound the "on" indicator light for the LPG solenoid quit functioning, but the LPG solenoid continued to operate.  I checked all the connections to the light and they seem to be fine, so I assume I need to replace the bulb.  Is this something I need to obtain from Seward or is there a better place to obtain one?  it appears the light is glued into the panel from the back.  Have any of you had to replace any of the indicator lights on the main panel?

Jack
#9
Main Message Board / O-rings
October 09, 2012, 05:56:37 PM
Has anyone replaced the O-ring on the deck access cover plate for the emergency tiller on a MK ll?  If so, where did you get it.  All the potential
sources here in Anacortes WA came up dry.

Jack
#10
Need replacement V-Berth Cushions?

We retrofitted our V-berth with a custom mattress.  The upholstery is in excellent condition (blue with white flecks, which was standard for many years).  The foam is a bit past its prime but still usable. 

We'd like to pass along the set.   

Thanks,
Jack and Margaret
S/V Castlewellan
#11
Fleet 5 / Selling C34 MKll ?
February 18, 2012, 04:59:53 PM
I got a phone call from a fellow in Vancouver who wants to know if there's a Catalina 34 MK II, vintage around 2000, for sale.  Anyone interested?  Please reply to jhutteball@comcast.net
#12
Main Message Board / Bilge pump float switch
July 16, 2011, 07:56:19 PM
When was the last time you checked the operation of the float switch on your bilge pump... never?  Yep, that's me, but I have only owned the boat 10 years. :sleepy:  I did not know how, or even if you could check it.  I had a survey yesterday so I can reinsure my pride and joy (required by my insurance company after 10 years).  The surveyor found ONLY one thing wrong... my float switch was inoperative.   I check the bilge pump operation every time I am on the boat by flipping the switch to manual to insure it runs.  When I leave the boat, I always insure it is on automatic so the boat may be on top of the water when I return.  Little did I know that nothing would have happened if a leak developed somewhere.  The water has never been deep enough in my bilge to make the pump come on, let alone get close to the wiring.  In essence I keep a dry bilge.  The wiring to the pump and switch has never been in any bilge water.

I removed the corrugated chafing shield that Catalina installs around the wiring in our boats, and nothing seemed amiss.  I checked the switch, all OK.  Upon closer inspection of the wires close to the switch, about 1" from where they disappear into the sealed case of the switch, I saw a bulge in one wire.  Insulation was not damaged that I could see.  Cutting it open, all that was inside the insulation was a little green powder from my cut right on into the switch.  The wire was completely corroded away! :shock:  My guess is that the switch has been inoperative for some time.  I just added another item to my routine checklist.

Jack

#13
We finally had a few days of nice weather here in the Pacific Northwest, so I hauled the boat for bottom paint, waxed the hull, installed new zincs, and changed the packing in the stuffing box.  The boat is now 10 years old and this is the first packing replacement.  My manual calls for 3 rings of 3/16" packing so I purchases the gortex material in that size.   When I pulled out the old packing I was surprised to find only 2 rings of the OEM packing.  It did take 3 rings of the new packing when I did the installation.  I have the packing nut on hand tight and locked with the locking nut until I splash tomorrow, then will do final adjustment.  Thinking something was funny about only 2 rings in the OEM packing, I picked up a scrap piece and compared it to the new gore packing. I seems to be 1/4" rather than 3/16".  At this point I am assuming the 3 rings of 3/16" will compress and do the job.  I will find out tomorrow :donno:

Jack
#14
Main Message Board / MK ll Battery wiring
May 10, 2011, 06:32:28 PM
I am finally changing my 2 - 4D batteries for 4 - 6 volt batteries and adding a separate starting battery as many have done.  I think I have had great use of the original batteries for the last 10 years, thanks to the info I read on this board about installing a smart charger early on.  Thanks guys :clap  I am keeping it simple by putting the start battery on battery 1 and the house bank on 2.  I have one question.

The batterys on my 2001 MKll, from the positive terminal each have a wire to the battery switch poles 1 and 2, and each have a wire to the battery charger.  There is a third red #14 wire from each positive post to somewhere I have not been able to determine.  They do not show up on the wiring diagrams in the owners manual.  I am the original owner so it was nothing added by a PO. 

Anyone with a MKll know what these wires serve?  Not a big deal really as I will reconnect one to the start battery and one to the new 4 battery house bank, but I would like to know what they do. :donno:

Jack
#15
Main Message Board / Louvered teak doors
February 26, 2010, 01:40:24 PM
I am going to install louvered teak doors in several places on our MKll to get at some of the unused spaces.  Have any of you out there used Thai Teak Marine for cabinet doors?  What about quality and delivery.  Testimonials look good and prices are excellent.

Thanks in advance,
Jack
#16
Main Message Board / Hot water tank heating loop leak
September 24, 2009, 06:39:06 PM
Searched the wiki and have not seen this issue before.  I am getting engine cooling water/antifreeze mixture in the aft compartment of the bilge.  I have carefully checked all hoses and connections around the engine, heat exchanger and find nothing.  I have checked the hose connections from the engine to the back of the water heater and find no leaks.  When I use a mirror and look under the sink cabinet I can see the hoses and they are dry.  (Yes Stu, they look new, not like the ones you pulled from under your cabin sole!) I have checked for chafe where the hoses go thru the floor of the sink cabinet, all dry.  But there is coolant dripping from the end of the boards that form the base for the sink cabinet and the floor under the settee where the water heater and batteries are located.  Since this is in the area under the water heater, there has to be a leak associated with the heater.  I see nothing on the back of the heater where the hose connects, completely dry.

The Seaward manual that I have has a great exploded view of the front of the hot water tank, but not the back.  Since there is no evidence of water on the outside of the square case, is it possible that the coolant is leaking inside the case between the case and the water tank, then coming out of the case on the bottom (which I can't see unless I remove the water tank) finding its way to the bilge?  Anyone had a similar problem before?

Then a final question, has anyone removed the hot water tank from a MKII?  It appears to me that the only way it will come out is to remove the batteries and rotate it 90 degrees so it will come up thru the settee seat access hole.  This is looking like my next step.

Jack
#17
Does anyone know what the bulb type is for the top of the mast anchor light on a 2001 C34 MK ll?  If you replaced your bulb with a LED, what did you use?
Jack
#18
Main Message Board / Oil lamps
September 10, 2008, 01:13:12 PM
I have done a search and found that at least several have installed oil lamps in your cabin. We had an oil lamp in out 27 and am now looking to add one on Mariah III.  Stu, I note that you have a trawler lamp which is what I am considering.  Assuming it is over the table, how did you mount/hang it?  Is it "right sized" for the boat?  Anyone have any do's or don'ts on lamps or installation?

Jack
#19
Main Message Board / Refrigeration
July 05, 2008, 08:56:44 PM
We have an Alder Barber cold machine on our 2001 C34 MK II.  Last weekend while sitting in the cockpit We heard the fan attached to the compressor running.  We thought that to be strange as we had never heard the fan run while in the cockpit before.  It was a warm day but not as hot as we have had here in the Northwest.  None of the LED sensors were showing trouble and the refrigerator was nice and cold so everything seemed to be operating all right.  Is the fan supposed to run every time the compressor runs?  This seemed to be the case. 

The only thing that is different than the week before we were out is that I equalized the batteries with our Xantrex Tru charger, with battery switch off and all panel switches off except the bilge pump.

We are surprised we have not remembered hearing this before, and at our age we know our hearing is not getting better!

Jack

#20
Main Message Board / Alternator belt
June 18, 2008, 09:50:15 PM
Doing a search I find a lot of information on Gates belt numbers for the M25 engines.  Does anyone have the number of the proper Gates belt for the M35 engine with the stock alternator?  I would prefer not to take the current one off to get a proper fit at the auto parts store.  The belt is fine now, but I need to be carrying a spare.

Jack
#21
Main Message Board / Raw water hoses
April 13, 2008, 02:15:28 PM
Has anyone with a M35B engine replaced the raw water hose that runs from the pump on the front of the engine and connects to the HX on the bottom at the port side, on your Mk ll?  Not a lot of room to work there.  Any suggestions?  My hose is leaking at the hose clamp on the water pump connection and tightening the clamp to the max will not stop it.  There is not enough hose to cut it back to good hose and reconnect it.  I also assume it is just a plain hose and not formed as the bends in it are slight.

Jack
#22
Main Message Board / Diesel heater installation
January 30, 2008, 01:22:43 PM
I am about ready to spring for a heater for the boat (admiral says about time!) and spent some time at the Seattle boat show yesterday doing research.  One thing most dealers said was that I needed a separate pipe from the fuel tank to serve the heater only.  The Racor filter has an additiional outlet I could easily connect to.  I am not wild about drilling a new hole in my fuel tank, which is plastic by the way.

Thought I would check to see if any of you out there have connected a diesel heater to your fuel filter or directly tee'd into the fuel line to run yout heater, and if so, have there been any problems.  Would also like to know if you have, what type and size of heater you have.

It does not seem to me that these small heaters with the small amount of fuel they sip, that they could cause a problem pulling fuel out of the line going to the engine, especially considering that the fuel will gravity flow to the Racor as the entire fuel tank is higher than the filter in my boat.

Jack
#23
Fleet 5 / Princess Louisa Inlet
November 14, 2007, 08:07:37 PM
We have never been to Princess Louisa Inlet so we are planning a trip there next year in late June or early July.  First, I welcome any comments from those who have traveled there, and second, would anyone like to join us and make a Fleet 5 cruise out of it?
#24
Main Message Board / Raw water pump
November 14, 2007, 07:51:49 PM
At the risk of beating a dead horse...my Sherwood is leaking again, first at 100 hours, rebuilt, and now again at 400 hours.  This seems excessive to me, so I think it is time for a new pump not a rebuild.  That said, I have reviewed all the great information on the Sherwood vs Oberdorfer debate.  It seems it boils down to a matter of  individual preference as either pump seems interchangeable on the M35, with cost and ease of impeller replacement being the biggest variables.  I note however that most Orberdorfers seem to be on the M25 engines.  How many of you with M35 engines have replaced your Sherwood with the Orberdorfer, and has it maintained your same engine temperature (since it seems to circulate "less" water)?  I am assuming most owners with M35 engines have not had leaking as I have had and just been merrily replacing impellers and sailing happily along.
Jack
#25
Fleet 5 / Fleet forming
March 22, 2007, 06:32:27 PM
Greetings Fellow C34 Sailors,

There is interest in forming a C34 fleet in the area ranging from Olympia to Bellingham Washington.  Craig Illman (Seattle, with Espresso #1150 in Anacortes) has agreed to assist in this effort.

From responses to a fleet survey it appears that the group would like to:
  Attend 2-4 raft ups/year
  Attend 1 cruise - depending on location
  No racing
  Attend 2-4 meetings/year

Most of the boats are located in the Seattle Area (Tacoma to Everett), with four of us located in Anacortes and Bellingham.  With that in mind, we would like to have a general organizational meeting in Seattle where we could all get to know each other and set a direction for the fleet.  Craig has kindly offered his house in the University District for the first meeting on April 27, 2007.

Assuming we move ahead with the formation of the fleet, we also would like to propose a first raft up for the weekend of June 29-July 1, 2007 at a location decided at the meeting.  This date has been tentatively selected as some may have the opportunity for a long weekend with July 4th being close.

With the wide location of our boats, we see the opportunity to have meetings and raft ups both in the north and south locations.

We would welcome any comments and suggestions you have prior to the meeting on April 27, especially those new C34 owners who may not have received the fleet survey.  Please also let us know if you can attend the meeting.

We look forward to meeting all of you.

Sincerely,

Jack & Ruth Hutteball.
Mariah III # 1555
Anacortes
#26
Main Message Board / Anchor light
September 11, 2006, 05:39:42 PM
While crusing for three days last week I noticed the anchor light was not working.  All other mast lights are working.  Assuming I will be taking a trip up the mast to replace the bulb soon, but I do not know what kind of bulb it is. I hope to only have to take one trip up the mast and fix it the first time.  What kind of bulb would be in the anchor light on a 2001 Mll?
#27
Main Message Board / fuel lift pump
July 17, 2006, 10:11:52 AM
While changing oil and furl filters yesterday I noticed that the fuel pump sometimes was clicking and sometimes not.  The engine always started and ran (3/4 tank of fuel) even after changing the fuel filter with no clicking sound from the pump.  From a search on the site it seems that the pump could be sticking, (hit with a screwdriver per Ron), bad ground, corroded fuse, or simply failed (the boat is now 5 years old, but there is only 300 hours on the engine and fuel pump.  I will check the above before replacing.

I read Stu's article with pictures about replacing the pump and noted the NAPA part numbers for replacement and the $36 cost.  My question is that the pictures don't look anything like my fuel pump.  Mine is a square metal box with fuel line connections on top and bottom with two wires comming out for power.  One bolts directly to the engine bracket and the other connects to the wiring harness.  I don't see any sign of a fuse, but that could be down the line somewhere.  Is the NAPA 610-1051 pump the correct one for my M35B engine?  Has anyone out there replaced a fuel pump on their M35B engine that looks like mine?
#28
Main Message Board / Heat exchanger zincs
July 15, 2006, 09:22:05 PM
I changed my heat exchanger zinc today and it was gone except for a little residue which I cleaned out of the hole. I change it annually with usually around 50 hours on the engine.  It seems to be working.  As I replace the new one, I wrapped the threads with teflon tape to prevent leaks as I usually do.  I wondered if this tends to limit the protection by not having solid metal to metal contact.  Should it be replaced without the tape?  Tomorrow I get to have the usual fun of replacing oil and fuel filters!

Jack
#29
Main Message Board / Water leak at mast base
November 06, 2005, 07:41:52 PM
Our 2001 boat has the mast stepped on the cabin top with the compression post inside the cabin between the keel and the overhead.  This is our fourth winter and this is the first time I have seen water leaking in around the top of the compression post.  It is leaking around the outside of the post.

I know water gets in the mast and must run out the bottom on the outside somehow.  I also know that the wiring from the mast comes throught the cabin top and down through pole.  I would assume there is something inside the mast/ont the cabin top, that normally keeps the water from getting through into the cabin

Any ideas as to why this would start leaking now and the remady to stop it?  I would hope I would not have to unstep the mast as we keep our boat in the water all year and do not unstep the mast.

Jack
#30
Main Message Board / Shaft packing nuts
January 02, 2005, 04:59:32 PM
What size wrench does it take to work on the shaft packing nuts?  I know mine is dripping faster than it should and I know I do not have a big enough wrench(s) on board.  Also, is there any trick to loosening/tightening them?  I have not had to make any adjustments since I took delivery of the boat 3 years ago.
Jack
#31
Main Message Board / generators
December 03, 2004, 01:00:27 PM
Does anyone out there carry a small portable ultra quiet generator like the Honda?  Are they really quiet as advertised so as not to disturb your neighbor while at anchor?   We plan to cruse Desolation Sound for at least a month next summer and generally don't plug in to docks when we are out.  Is this a more efficient way to recharge batteries rather than running the diesel?  If you carry one do you get more use than simply emergency power or battery recharging?
#32
Main Message Board / Thru hull lubrication
August 11, 2004, 10:00:01 PM
I will be pulling our boat for  new bottom paint this weekend.  I have heard that this is a good time to lubricate the thru hulls from the outside.  What should I use and how easy is it to get it up in there?  Going to install that zinc on the strut at the same time.
#33
Main Message Board / Strut protection
July 29, 2004, 08:28:00 AM
My diver notified me that its time for bottom paint and that there is noticable corrosion on the strut.  He suggested that a hole be drilled in the strut and a zinc added there.  is thois recommended?  I have never seen any discussion on the board of anyone doing this.  I plan to haul the boat next week for paint, so this would be a good time to add this.  Thanks in advance.
#34
Main Message Board / Wireless instruments
March 04, 2004, 07:37:40 PM
Has anyone out there tried wireless instruments?  I need to install wind speed indicator on the masthead and would prefer not to have to run the wiring as I have a deck stepped mast.  Are they reliable, a good value, etc., or is it better to stay with tried and true?
#35
Main Message Board / Waste Management
June 08, 2003, 10:35:04 PM
Has anyone installed a legal treat and discharge system for waste on their 34MKll?  Finding a pump out station while crusing is a pain.  We had a Mansfield TDX system on our last boat that worked well, but they do not seem to be available now.  Surely someone must make something that would fit in our great boats!
#36
Main Message Board / Forced air heat
November 29, 2002, 12:31:08 PM
I am looking into adding forced air heat to the boat so we can enjoy some of the sunny but cool winter weekends away from the dock here in the Northwest.  We don't need cooling.  There seems to be at least two small diesal heaters that will do the job.  We don't want a bulkhead mount in the cabin, but forced air.  Any comments from users out there as to what is best, most quiet, reliable, etc.  What size (BTU output) is comfortable without overkill?  Thanks in advance for any information.
#37
Main Message Board / Compass removal
July 28, 2002, 06:56:13 PM
How do you remove the compass from the top of the pedestal?  I have removed the outer trim and light and can see that the compass bracket appears to be mounted with four good size phillips screws.  Whoever mounted it must have been a real gorilla because I cannot seem to get these screws to back out.  I did not want to force anything and break the mounting bracket which appears to be plastic.  Anyone know any trick to this?  My purpose for wanting to get under the compass is to check the transmission cable from the upper end and possibly lubricate it as suggested in an earlier post.  Ocassionally the transmission does not go into forward gear.
#38
Main Message Board / Screw in fuel tank
July 21, 2002, 10:00:47 PM
Stopped at the fuel dock today and upon opening the fill cap found the safety chain loose and hanging down the fill pipe.  I reconnected it but can only assume that the original screw is now in the bottom of the fuel tank.  Is this a potential problem with the fuel suction line in the tank?  Any thoughts on how I might retrieve it short of pulling the tank?
#39
Main Message Board / Fresh Water pump
July 05, 2002, 06:26:01 AM
I just found my fresh water pump leaking (I assume fresh water, it's the upper Sheerwood)which is surprising since I just hit 100 hours on the engine meter.  Is this normal?  Water is comming from the holes near the back of the pump. Are there replacable seals inside, or is this a pump replacement project?
#40
Main Message Board / Chartplotter mounting
May 01, 2002, 10:14:26 PM
I am about to mount an additional Navpod and chartplotter on the pedestal guard below the unit that has my speed and depth displays.  Does anyone have any advice on pitfalls to avoid etc.?  Do I need to pull out the wires that run to the units above?
#41
Main Message Board / Tackometer problem
March 24, 2002, 06:50:30 PM
Started the engine today, first time in about 3 months and noted the tackometer was not working.  That is the first time that has happened (90 hours on engine).  The strange thing is that when I switch on the bilge blower the tack works, and stops again when the blower is turned off. Any suggestions?  Also, every time I run the engine all the gauges fog up right after starting and then clear up in 20 to 30 minutes.  Is this normal?
#42
Main Message Board / Cockpit tables
March 13, 2002, 12:36:41 AM
Has anyone installed an Edson table on their pedestal guard?  The pictures look great.  Do they do the job and are they substantial?  I assume the plastic model will weather better. Any recommendations?
#43
Main Message Board / Aft cabin engine smell
November 26, 2001, 08:08:06 PM
Our boat is new with only 80 hours on the engine. After running under power for only a few minutes there is a strong engine ordor in the aft cabin.
It does not seem like exhaust.  I dont think this happened the first few times we were out.  Is this a normal condition for the boat?  I realize the proximity to the engine but the cabin has to be aired out before using it.