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I've obtained 4 -Deko Promaster 6v 230 amp golf cart batts, but they are a tad used... methinks they are still workable for some time though. I have a 40 watt solar panel with two more 80 watt panels on the way over the winter for lots of charge on the mooring ball...  I wanted to add two new batts and a separate starter batt as well... but obviously I don't want to drag down the new kids to the olders level. What do you all think of a solution like the isolator below? Also - any ideas on how to run two house banks and a starter bank. So far the only switch I am aware of is the 1-2-B and I haven't seen a drawing of that set up the site... apologies if I missed it.

Thanks!

Steve
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Argo diode battery isolators allow multiple batteries to charge simultaneously from one alternator while still maintaining separate battery bank isolation. This protects fully charged battery banks from discharging to depleted batteries yet still allowing incoming charge current. This is achieved by diodes that function as a gate between the banks. Battery isolation is important in marine, RV and generator wiring plans, to prevent household/accessory battery banks from depleting the starter battery.
Argo battery isolators achieve minimal voltage loss by using super efficient Schottky diodes. This means higher voltage output to charge batteries as close as possible to 100%. The voltage drop is 0.3VDC at low current draw and only 0.45VDC at rated output. All models are further fitted with a compensation diode to slightly increase alternator output voltage.

Stunningly, ours has disappeared somehow. I fear it was chucked out with some junk when cleaning out the shop... AARGH!

It's a shot, but if anyone has replaced theirs and hasn't disposed of the old one, I am trying to get through next season without having to buy a new replacement.. too many other expensive projects underway. Our canvas is navy, but beggars can't be choosers....

Failing that... does anyone happen to know a place where I can find the dimensions so I can get a replacement made?

Thanks as always!

Steve

Somewhere in the wiki there is a very cool list of items to use for cleaning and maintaining our plastic tubs of joy.

One of the items, "Future (floor polish) - Returns shine to old fiberglass non-skid areas" seems like a good idea to me... that said, I can't find Future in any of the stores in SE Pennsylvania. Any thoughts on another cleaner to use for this? Also, once I get them sparkling and shiny, how do I keep them that way? Especially when out on the mooring for the season, away from shore side running water, etc.. Someone suggested it, but waxing the deck seems a lot like something out of a Stooges movie.... 

Thanks all!

foo

Hey All -

The gremlins are afoot... and Frolic's many, MANY years old 12V batteries are toast. Time to replace them all so I have plenty of DVD power this summer for the junior crew members while we're on the mooring or on the hook.

Found this battery at the local Sams club after a lot of research on the web.

I was thinking about 4 of them @ $90.00 for the house bank. Is this a good deal, or are the Trojan 125's really required at almost 2x the price...? Please remember, I've got a limited budget for the next two years and need to balance sufficient-for-now vs. ideal-the-next- time-around. I've got a 40W solar panel on the bimini to keep them up while on the mooring. We're weekenders only (unfortunately) and I don't mind the idea of flooded batteries up here in the Northern Ches Bay where there's VERY little chance of a knockdown. Regular maintenance is fine by me too. 

Thanks in advance!

Steve


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Duracell® Golf Car Battery


Model: Group Size EGC2
Item #:347631
6 Volt Golf Car and Motive Power Battery
12 months Free Replacement Warranty


$88.74

   

DESCRIPTION

Features:
Whether you need a battery for a personnel carrier, aerial lift, electric vehicle, golf car, boat, RV, floor scrubber, road sign, or any other application that requires deep-cycle power, this is the battery of choice. The biggest innovations lie inside the battery, where we use heavier grids, plates with higher density oxide and improved glass mat envelope separators. The result? Longer life cycles and superior cycle life performance. The exterior features represent powerful thinking as well. Engineers have designed a battery that is as durable and user-friendly as possible. The heavy gauge polypropylene cases have been specially engineered to take a pounding without damaging the cells. Twist-and-release vent caps make removing caps a snap, and we've maximized convenience by designing a new lifting system.


SPECIFICATIONS

20 amp hour rate:230
5 amp hour rate:174
6 amp hour rate:178
BCI Group Size:GC2
Minutes at 25 amps:448
Minutes at 75 amps:120
Volts:6

So it looks like I am going to learn how to use a swaging tool this spring (Along with re-bedding a couple of stanchions.)

The tool below seemed like a good deal to me. Thoughts?

Also - Should I give up the vinyl? What are the downsides to raw wire?

Thanks All!
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New Campbell Chain 7679038 1/16-3/16 Hand Swage Tool 18" - $38 online

Completely portable. Hardened jaws securely swage loops up to 2 ton capacity. Special instructions and sash number system assure reliable results.

 

[added Stuffing Box to title - Stu]

Finally got around to replacing the sliders with Teak Plywood. I have all four of the old ones available for $25 plus the cost of shipping. They are in good shape with the stock (I believe) silver colored handles.

but I thought I share if anyone needs


NICRO Marine Dorade Watertrap Cowl Vent-3" Model N27200


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NICRO-Marine-Dorade-Watertrap-Cowl-Vent-3-Model-N27200-/170701728337?pt=Boat_Parts_Accessories_Gear&hash=item27be9daa51

Just got back from a visit to the boat... After a close inspection of the propane system, I've decided that it's time to replace the entire thing from the bottle box all the way through to the range! Has anyone replaced the solenoid? Any recommendations on specific parts or a good source?

Thanks,

Steve

Hello All!

The Admiral and I have made a decision to move Frolic to a mooring to curb boat expenses a bit over the next couple of years as we reallocate funds to open a new business. Obviously, we'll need to keep the batteries topped off and would also like to generate enough excess juice to enjoy weekends aboard without having to spark up the motor all the time.

I am jealous of Black Dragon's oh-so-sweet 400 watt bimini! Nice job Steve! However, we don't plan on doing extended cruising anytime soon and that seems like overkill given our current use. I'd like to hear any opinions on how many watts/volts you all think we'll need to enjoy the boat without shore power and with reasonable upfront expenses. Here in Maryland, a wind generator is fairly useless, so solar is the only option as I see it.

Thanks for your help!!

Steve

A great blue heron... (yes, a heron) impaled it's wing on my mast head antenna. Don't ask me how this happened as I was travelling at the time.  Reportedly the poor thing spent many hours up there fending off attacking ospreys and crows while the clown patrol at my marina fumbled around doing nothing. Eventually, he got himself off of the antenna and into the water from whence he was plucked and delivered to the local heron rescue by a kindly neighbor. BTW: He's recovering nicely. (Side question: Is dried heron blood all over the the deck a blessing or a curse?) 

At any rate - Bad for heron and bad for boat. X lbs of bird flailing at the top of my mast for hours devastated all of my indicators, mast head light, VHF ant, etc.,. Not being one for the bosun's chair any more, I am planning on having the mast hauled to do repairs, paint it, etc. which leads me to the purpose of this post.

Since I doubt that the standing rigging has been touched for many, many years (previous owner = escaped mental patient). What should I plan to spend to replace all of the standing rigging on her?

Is it cheaper to get the wire hooked up while the mast is down and they will install the balance once it's up?

Never messed with the standing rig on any of my boats, so this is new to me.


As always, Thanks for your help gang!

Steve

Starter motor has gone bye bye. The hammer-on-the-side trick isn't working anymore. Considering having it rebuilt vs. a new one from Kubota. Does anyone know where I can find the comparable kubota part number for the starter? Any preferred suppliers?
Other advise?

Many Thanks,

Steve 

Looks like my teak and holly sole in the companionway/head area is too far gone for restoration. Rather than just replacing it with new plywood, I am hopeful that somebody has a source for the rubber flooring that Catalina has installed in the Mk II (or something close to it). Apologies if this has already been answered. I searched the BB but didn't seen a mention of it. 

Many thanks!

Steve

Can I get away with a gallon? or should I plan on an additional quart to finish up the job and hit the stand spots? 

A) obviously drank absinthe in his coffee.

2) was an economic terrorist.

%) must have been escaped mental patient.

5) is all of the above

Yes... this is a real question.

I have the plans and materials to build a 12 foot,  stitch and tape V-hulled sailing tender (the Bateau v12) that I bought years ago when we had a c34 mk II. We now have a mk I and as everyone knows, the mk I's have much less beam.

We have a fantastic set of Kato Marine Davits mounted and while I am confident that a 12 foot dink would be a REAL luxury, I am concerned that in practice will be just too big when up in the davits. I can imagine a tight slip or close call with a piling at a gas dock could be disastrous.

We are not small folk and we tend to have a couple of kids with us frequently so a decent sized tender is important.

Your advice/speculation is appreciated.

Thanks,

Steve

All:

I know there have been lots of threads re: replacement of the dinette and settee cushions. Please forgive me if I am being repetitive with this post.

We have a 1988 and the interior seating has seen it's day come and go a loooong time ago.... I was wondering if anyone had recent experience buying cushions from the factory? Can I get swatches for the Admiral to inspect? How much did the cushions cost? Was the quality up to snuff?

We have pretty much decided to use the factory option just to eliminate the guess work of picking a local shop to do new upholstery. That said, I can be dissuaded of this notion if anyone is aware of a shop in the PA/DE/MD area that does quality work at a good price.

My budget is around $2300.00 and I am hoping that I can get it done for that as creature comforts are important to the crew...

As always - This board is awesome!

Thanks for your input,

Steve

Hello All:

My old dodger has seen her last days and must be replaced before next season. I don't intend to change the frame or anything and the Bimini and connector are relatively new, so I'll leave them as they are. Any speculation as to the approximate cost of a quality replacement?

Also - Can I just remove the old one, or does some poor soul have to trek all the way to my marina at the end of the world to measure, etc?

Any suggestions on a good quality canvas shop from you fellow Chesapeake cruisers?

Thanks!

Steve

I realize that this is probably one of those fruitless questions, but I figured I'd tap the board's collective experience anyway.
My 1988 is up on the hard this year while I give her some much needed TLC. but I didn't expect bilgewater to be much of an issue while she's in this state.

We have had some mighty good rainstorms here in the Northern Ches, this summer, and I expect some h2o incursion (mast, a small hole in the transom that's yet to be repaired, etc), but my bilge has been absolutely FILLED to the brim after EACH storm. I don't have a cover on her this summer, but when I did last winter and spring, water wasn't much of an issue in the bilge so my supposition is that the cockpit was covered and therefore that's the source of the leak.

I can't find evidence of water drips or stains of any significance. Short of being aboard during a storm (when I can, I will be!) Does anyone have any experience with large amount of water finding it's way through some known weak point in the MKI cockpit somehow and down into the bilge without leaving evidence behind. 

Mildew abounds so my next post will likely be about solar fan placement...
Any input is appreciated!

Thanks!

Bubbling by the Bohemia

I am looking for a provider someplace in the MD/DE/NJ/PA area who can do some chrome plating work for my radar post. The original post seems to be some form of stainless steel and about 8 feet long installed by the p.o., but with a dull finish that just doesn't lend itself to the level of bristol that I am aiming for. Any experiences/suggestions are appreciated!

Thanks,

Steve 

Hello All:

Long time lurker, first time poster.

I am ready to replace the rubrail on my 1988 and am looking for a source. If you hard asked me yesterday, I would have sworn that Catalinaowners.com sold precut rubrail specifically for 34s, but when I went to the site today, no sign of it. Suggestions are much appreciated!  

Also - thanks to all of you who work so hard to maintain this FANTASTIC resource for 34 owners. I've joined and am looking forward to all of the benefits!

Steve