Topics

Giving away the original electric panel that came with my 1988 MK 1 C34,  This is the one with black graph paper design and push button circuit breakers. 

Currently located in the Washington DC area.  If you pay for shipping, I will send it to you.

Hopefully all Floridian Catalina owners and their families made it through Hurricane Ian safely and as best as possible.

When I saw this boat on the Weather Channel, I immediately recognized it as a C34 or 36. Hard to say if its low in the water or just heeled way over in big swells.  Hopefully the boat survived. For us East Coasters, this is a worst case scenario.

It was the night before Halloween and our engine panel appeared to show signs of paranormal activity. 

Despite being turned off and the key removed, shortly before midnight I noticed that the instruments on the engine panel where on.  This was odd because the key was not in the ignition switch and there was no clicking of the fuel pump.  Yet, the instruments were eerily glowing red (of course)... 
So, I got the key, turned the ignition switch on and off and the instrument lights (RPM, Water Temp, etc.) went off.   However, less than minute later, the panel was glowing again!

Since I was not about to have my boat commandeered by spirits, I disconnected the cable from starter battery to the engine.  The engine panel light remained off, we remained in the slip, and the Gaulois did not join the ghost ship fleet.

Considering the time of year, ghost can not be completely ruled out.  However, recently the ignition switch had been acting fussy and I suspect that could be the source of the problem.  But I'm interested in other diagnosis so that I can exorcise the problem.

PS - Engine is as M25XP and the wire harness was upgraded.

Has anyone tried painting the plastic trim rings on the Lewmar opening ports? Mine are circa 198? and while not cracked or damaged, are yellowing and getting brittle. Been wondering if painting them could help improve their looks and also provide some protection to the aging plastic. There are aftermarket plastic trim paints sold for automobiles which seem like they could work.

Heading to San Diego from the Chesapeake and the family wants to go sailing. Since there will be 10 of us, including my wife's parents in their 80's, I'm thinking a catamaran with a captain makes the most sense. There appears to be a number of options but am wondering if anyone local has some recommendations or suggestions. 

Giving away a tall rig main from my 1988 C34 since I have limited storage on and off the boat - so can't keep it as a spare.

FULL DISCLOSURE: The sail is well used and Bacon's Sails in Annapolis would not consign / resell it.  It's at least 12 years old.  Could be used a spare.

If you're in the greater Washington DC/Baltimore/Annapolis MD area and want to see it, let me know.

If you're willing to pay for shipping, I'll send it to you.

- Walt Tunnessen

Curious if anyone has ever relocated the Heat Exchanger off the engine in order to improve access to the transmission dip stick?

In the most recent issue of Mainsheet there is an article from a C355er describing relocating the heat exchanger which made wonder if anyone has consider doing it on a C34?  And what the pros/ cons are/might be?

Looks like I might need to have the injector pump for my M25XP re-built.

Does anyone have any recommendations for diesel workshop in Maryland (western shore) or the Washington DC metro area that might be able to do it?

Unfortunately, in the process of replacing my injectors, two of the nozzles the injector pump rotated when I tried loosen the compression nut on the fuel line. After re-installing the injectors, there was a fuel leak around the nozzles. I also noticed a loss of fuel flow thru the middle injector. I wound up removing two of the valves completely since the compression nuts on the nozzles where completely frozen requiring a lot of PB blaster brute force to get off. I replaced the o-rings, re-installed the nozzles, and bled everything.

For some people, that procedure worked. However, I can not get the engine to turn over. It sounds fuel starved.  Additionally, while bleeding the injectors while cranking the engine, the fuel only seeped out of the injector compression nut rather than sprayed.  A boat neighbor helping thought there might be a lack of pressure. I'm not sure since I've never bled injectors before. The electric fuel pump is working.

Part of why I replaced the injectors was due to a lack of power and difficulty getting higher RPMs. The injectors have been suspect for years but the recent loss of power occurred during and after motor sailing in rough conditions. The engine would run fine for an hour and then lose power.  There was some crude in the filter but the symptoms I experienced were very similar to those Ron and others have described in their posts about injector pump issues.  I have a new fuel tank circa 2007 so I don't think there is a screen on the pick up line but I have not checked it. Fuel filters have all been changed & bled. However, I did disturb the injector pump nozzles and I have seen other posts that say that if that has happens, then the pump needs to be rebuilt.

If anyone has some other suggestions, please let me know.

Curious to what other people's experience has been with this site/company since mine has not been good.

Having heard about them on this site and others as a source for discount hardware, I thought I'd check them out.  Placed an on-line order in April but never received anything.  They did charge my credit card (now disputing charge). I've tried emailing and calling but their voice mailbox is "full."  Upon checking the BBB profile, I've discovered I'm not the only person who has experienced this problem. So - be warned...

I've noticed some rust along the slide of the stemhead fitting and some rust streaks.  See picture.  I recall reading that the bolts should be removed, inspected, and probably replaced.  But I am wondering if the entire fitting needs to be removed and re-bedded?

I guess there is more than one way to rake a mast...

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See attachment if the image does not load.

This is probably a relatively easy question for you old salts.

But I'm at home doing some project planning and am trying to estimate roughly where the waterline is relative to landmarks inside the main salon?  On a Mark I (1988).

For example - is the waterline roughly at the top salon seats?  Or - half way between the seats and sole? 

Thanks!

When "burping" or removing the air lock that can occur after flushing the fresh water cooling system, do you remove the bottom or top hose from the thermostat?

I am planning on using the pump method - where you draw/ pull fluid through hoses going to the hot water heater and pump it back into the main reservoir.

Since I am in the process of upgrading my electrical system and have been using Jim Moe's approach discussed in the wiki, I wanted to update his original wiring diagram to reflect updated location of the echo charge.

Based on posts/edits that Stu and others have made, its better to not connect the echo charge on the battery switch, which is what is shown on the wiki.

I've edited Jim's original diagram and figured that I would post a "draft" updated Jim Moe wiring diagram for review and comment on the Forum.

If there are any changes that need to be made - I'm happy to make them since I want to know!

If the final updated diagram would be helpful to other to people, maybe someone could post it on the Wiki.

Note I've attached a low res version and have higher res ones.

- Walt Tunnessen

Hi

How does one learn more about Fleet 12?

Please let me know!

Thanks!

Walt Tunnessen

Has anyone else used a Rotozip tool to cut fiberglass?

Over the weekend I used mine to cut opennings in for access ports in the anchor locker.

This worked pretty well - but I am not sure I found the optimal set up - if there is one.  It did cut nice round circles with out chipping the gel coat.

I used a metal cutting bit and it seemed to work best at the "25" speed setting.   Lower RPM than that cut too slowly and higher caused a lot smoking.  The cutting went pretty slowly but I did not want to push it too much.

I'm planning on cutting two more round holes for speakers, so I figured I'd see if anyone else has found an optimal set up or suggestions for using the Rotozip.   I'll also try to find the multi bit that says its rated for fiber glass.

Its been a pretty handy tool for alot of other applications as well. 

Wondering if anyone has ever taken their anchor to get galvanized?

I'm thinking that my old iron CRQ might benefit from a hot dip in the metal plating process. 

Would also look nicer once I install the new anchor roller.

Not mention its cheaper to than getting a new one.  Southern Galvanizing in Baltimore quoted around $175 to $225.

Has anyone else used a Galvanizer in the Maryland / NoVa region?

Does anyone recognize this device?  There is nothing printed on it - but I did not detach it to look at the back side.

Is it a battery combiner of some sort?

The Guest 20 amp battery charger (which I assume is original to the boat?) was connected to it.  The leads run to the main battery switch. I have not traced alternator lead to confirm if it is connected directly to this device.

I'm in the process of upgrading Gaulois' battery charging system which currently is the original (?) Guest 20 Amp charger and have a few questions and am wondering how others have installed theirs.  Gaulois is 1988 Mark I.  I'm installing Xantrex Truescharge2 40 AMP charger.  I had hoped this might be a simple change out but...

1. DC Fuses near batteries?  The manual says to install fuses on the leads running from the charger to the batters.  Have others done this?

From the manual:
"Electrical codes require the DC circuit from each battery to the charger to be equipped with a disconnect and an overcurrent
protection device, usually within 7 inches (17.8 cm) of each battery1. The devices are usually DC-rated circuit breakers, fused disconnects, or a separate fuse and disconnect for each circuit. These devices must be rated for DC voltage and current and be rated to withstand the short circuit rating of each battery....   The current rating of the DC fuses must be correctly matched to the size of the DC wiring used, in accordance with the applicable codes. This helps to protect the installation against fire in case of any overcurrent or short circuit fault."

2.  AC power connection - It looks like the current charger is wired to the AC Bus bar that is attached to the back of the panel.  Note - this is the original 1988 Mark I panel.

Have others used the same connection or added a separate breaker? 

The new Xantrex needs to be wired to a 20 AMP breaker.  It looks like this bus bar is wire to the "Outlet" breaker, which is 20 AMP.  But looking at the wiring chart on the owners manual, I am not 100% sure if this bus is tied to the 20 AMP "Outlet" breaker.


3. The old Guest Charger was wired to what looks like some sort of combiner which is then wired to the battery switch.  Its not labeled. But is "Balmer" blue and has what looks like heat exchanging fins. I'll take picture of it and post it.

Note - I did not trace wire from alternator to see if it is wired to the combiner or what ever it is. However, all the wires connected to it are 12 AWG. This seems pretty undersized for even the older charger. 

Was this the standard wire practices, or something "custom?" 

I've added new 6 AWG directly to the batteries in the original battery box.  That gets back to the fuse question.

4.  DC grounds -  The older charger's ground line runs to the negative bus bar on the panel.  I am wondering if that is sufficient for running the negative leads from Xantrex or if they should be grounded somewhere else, like the engine or if there is one, a ground bus for the batteries? 

The Raymarine ST 4000 autohelm on Gaulois began acting very erratic under our last sail.

Within about 30 seconds of being engaged and put into "auto" it began to first turn hard to starboard and then very hard to port - basically spinning the wheel - before I disengaged it.  This happened repeatably.   The clutch was engaged and does not seem to be stuck.

This occurred under power in claim conditions.  The compass reading on the autopilot matched the GPS  & +/- compass.

Turning the power on / off to the unit did not correct the problem.

Initially, it was working fine - under power and holding course while I raised the sails.  Also held the course under sail.   

The owner manual does not offer any suggestion on how trouble shoot this to this issue.  I wonder if I should try resetting the rudder gain.

Wondering if anyone has experienced this or it it is a symptom of something else.

I have not called Raymarine yet since I figured I would check here first.  Usually if find answers to my questions on the forum! 

I noticed in earlier threads there was some uncertainty regarding the type of replacement cowl vent for older hulls with the Vetus Cowls and Dorado. 

Having just replaced mine, the correct ones are:

Vetus " Tom S" or "TOMS"  with the screw down plate. 

The best price I found for these ($68) was at http://www.go2marine.com/product.do?no=76322F

The Mariner Hardware SS Vents no longer appear to be available.
See http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,4431.msg25926.html#msg25926

This is too bad, since these were a great value. I used on my previous boat a Tartan 27.   Perhaps bargain SS cowl vents will resurface again.

For repainting Cowl vents, see this thread:   http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,3439.msg18988.html#msg18988

Seems like painting the vents every few years is probably a good idea.

I'm wondering if anyone has every tried putting a clear coat on news vent?

Of course, some people replace the whole set up with a solar vent.