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Made a passage on a Tartan 41 and the owner had installed solar panel(s) on the sea hood, just forward of the traveler. It was a great place, since no one ever walked there. C34, # 1472, has exactly the same space (although meas. are probably smaller). Any ideas about installing there on the deck? We're at a mooring and it is important, since I can't constantly hook up and charge with AC. All thoughts welcome. Thx/Rgds.

After ordering from Catalina (their replacement was different than OEM), I went to Home Dumpo and bought a roll of adhesive backed foam weather strip. I cleaned the residue from the orig. install with solvent (acetone?) and mesured and tried to mitre the foam strip at ea. corner. Bending it wasn't great. It works really well. I'm sorry I no longer have the measurments for the tape. Measure it before you buy. Too big it won't seal well, Rgds.

Re-sending in case of non-transmission.
Desiree. C34, #1472, yr. 2000. Managed to break a faucet on the cockpit shower unit. Don't think faucet is replaceable (Plastic, etc.) Can anyone suggest a replacement for the entire unit  that will fit and odestn't include fiberglass or carpentry work? Thx All.

Just came back from a week at La Cruz (Porta Vallarta, Mex.) In the La Cruz YC there's a few flags from the "Baja Ha Ha" . What is it? Sounds like my kind of race. Thx.

Question: In light of the Hostess bankruptcy, what will replace the TWINKIES in the abandon ship bag?

It's a 1/4" NPT Female that attaches to the male (upper) end of the drain tube. Find one at an auto parts store and just clamp it to the larger hose from your hand pump. Found the secret to getting all oil out is 1. get it hot, 2. Open or loosen the oil fill cap on top of the engine. You'll hear it suck air when all the used oil is out (about 4 qts on a Univ. 35B). Rgds. Stewartn, Desiree, C34 Mk II, # 1472.

Any one know if the table top will lift off easily to provide better access to the Batts & Hot Water system plumbing? I can turn my table and put it down and up, but It doesn't seem to come off. I'm nit going to remove the mount. Thx.

During the winterization, I managed to strip one fo the faucet valves on the rear cockpit shower. Can't turn it off. Willing to replace the entire unit. Anyone do this or can I get a lead on a like sized unit? No fiberglass work. Thx.

With everything else to listen for and worry about, the water noise has never been a factor. Maybe because we fold ourselves into the V berth and I listen to the tickle and slap of the rigging all night. I'm always amazed at how many mooring mates don't know or care how to secure halyards, etc. But, back to the aft tank: anyone know of an access port on the aft tank on a 34 Mk II? I've been to the access port on the f'wd tank. but don't see one thru the lazarette hatches on the aft tank. Suggestions? Thx.

I am sad to report that almost 2 years to the day, after replacement with a brand new pump from Hansen, the "new" Sherwood pump is leaking. In 2009 the weep holes were corroded closed and we never saw the leak. We lost the season with haul out, engine removal, etc. because of sea water in the engine. Well I see the leak this time. Ordered a new pump at $360. Spoke to Hansen - Lot's of excuses. Question is; this pump has to be rebuilt or replaced every 2 years? Pump has about 125 hrs on it. Everything else is working fine. Temp gauge is steady as rock, right below 170. Exhaust water would fill a battle ship. Riser, Heat Xch, Nipple all checked and were fine 125 hrs ago when the engine was removed.  You'd think
Mr. Westerbeke would figure out how to marinize a tractor engine with a better pump. Certainly lessens my level of comfort with Universal. Comments?

Thx to all! 1. Boat is on a mooring - long long extension cord for the wet vac and the dockmaster gets all worked up about electrocution .2. You're not right about "manual labor" in Greenwich. A few people have worked on my boat and I'm sure their name was "Manual". 3. I have a drippless, at least the boat does, and the it's dry. You have all been very helpful. Maybe a small weep hole in the bottom of the bilge thru the hull and the water will leak out. No??? Off to buy big bigger sponges.

C 1472 Mk II, 2000. The bilge pump outlet is high on the port quarter. I understand the why of the location. But, when you pump the bilge - electrically of manually- all the water in the hose come back downhill into the bilge. Anyone ever had an innovative idea? I understand that check valves are not good in bilge applications. Thx.

Thx to all. If I did pick this up from the yard water at commissioning, what's the best way to flush 70 gal. of water from the tanks. That Shurflo will work forever. Anyone ever disconnect the in hose from the pump, attach a length and let it drain into the bilge? All suggestions appreciated.

Thought the old, 11 yrs, Shurflo pressure water pump was gone. Turned out to be a clogged filter on the intake side. (As long as I had disconnected all the plumbing, etc., I replaced the pump.) Filter was clogged with some white substance, felt soft to touch. Local experts think it's poly residue from bottom of tank when they cut the ports. The filter had same substance at commissioning, May. We flushed tanks and shocked with Clorox, rinsed with vinegar, flushed and filled. 2 months later the filter clogged again. If Peggy Hall on the net, I'd love her opinion. Any other opinions are definitely welcome. Thx all.

Pressure Water Pump on C34 MKII  #1472 giving trouble. Pump is now 11 years old. Since I have to undo plumbing to diagnose, thought I would replace pump now and not wait. Anyone know the replacement for the ShurFlo 20888? series fresh water pump that was OEM. Mostly I'd like the same foot print and the same electrical connection. Any help appreciated. Thx.