Messages

I completed the replacement of my chain plate covers purchased from CD last year.
I removed the old covers, the chain plates and the thru bolts on each. I counter sunk the bolt holes
following some of Mainsail's suggestions. I cleaned the chain plates and all surrounding areas I
re-installed the chain plates and used butyl tape on the counter sunk bolts tightening these from below.

For the new CP covers I added butyl tape (BT) to all surfaces and installed. I then used a pick or dental
tool to get the BT in between the chain plate and the new cover on the vertical surfaces so that it was
close to the top of the new cover.

Because I was concerned how the BT would react to the UV overtime I then covered the top of the new
CP covers where it met the chain plate with  3M Marine Adhesive Sealant Fast Cure 4000 UV

Steve

Congratulations, I had seen her in the lot at HHN a number of times, glad to see she has a new home.

Enjoy,

Steve

Patrice,

For the outside of our bowl and surrounding areas we use normal household cleaners.
For the bowl we only use Raritan CP, see the link below.

http://raritaneng.com/raritan-product-line/waste-treatment/c-p-cleans-potties/

For our tank I use both Odorlos or Raritan KO depending on what I have available on the boat.
All 3 products work well together.

We usually purchase from Defender and the like.......................

Steve

Ben,

To me it sounds like the Temperature probe. I have a 19 page document that is text and illustrations for our stove,
It only covers the Seaward / Princess / Hillerange stoves manufactured prior to September 2007.

Not sure if I got it on this site or another.

I sent you a PM if interested

Steve

Russ,

Thanks  for the update, the more I think I understand of our boats I find I really understand less. Looking at the attached price list your boat may not have
been built with the available head/holding tank option.

http://www.c34.org/1985pricelist.jpg

It just shows I cannot assume anything about our boats.

Steve

Russell,

I'm sure there is a reason that the tank is not in the usual port side mid ship location.
How long must you pump to clear 20 + feet of pipe from the head discharge. I'm just
thinking the potential for plumbing issues are many with the current v birth location.

Not trying to be critical, but I've not seen many setups with the holding tank at that distance.

Best of luck,

Steve

I vote for replacing. it's been 8 or 9 seasons.

They may hold a charge, but the actual AHs available must be much lower than when first purchased.

The cruise will be much better with a new bank.

Again, just how I would vote, enjoy the Bay.

Steve

James,

A few years back I replaced mine with a like unit from Adler Barbour. With the compressor in the aft locker I needed all of the 15' provided with the standard
evaporator. Would be a shame if that amount of plumbing was no longer included. Check out defender.com.


Steve

Jon,

I have the outside tracks, the boat was delivered to the original owner with them. I assumed it was Catalina that installed.


A great article, but what did we expect..............


Steve

Ed,

I went to Aluminum anodes 2 years ago after reading and seeing articles in/at defender.com, WM, boatzincs.com and Cruising World. My home port is brackish water in the  Chesapeake.  Doing a search on "anodes zinc or aluminum" there are many creditable articles for using aluminum in salt and brackish waters.

Just my 2 cents....................


Steve

Gary,

Everyone has an opinion, I will throw my out there.

The last sails I ordered came from National Sail Supply in Florida. I dealt with Dirt Sharland. They are Rolly Tasker sails.

I ordered with 4 full battens, loose footed main, numbers and a few other particulars. The quality, price and ATTENTION TO DETAIL
was outstanding. I figured that after Catalina built 1,500 + standard / tall rig 34s there is nothing that special that a visit to my
boat is going to help educate a sail loft any further.

Enjoy,

Steve

Ed,

The issue I had with the forward settee was the width or the unit . I should have made a wood or cardboard box of the full size to begin with and I would have seen that the size was close , but 1/2" off. Who would have thought that there would be any issue on a boat.
All of my ducting is on the starboard side, my discharge is in the v-birth locker and is 7" above the water line. Isued my salt water foot pump
near the galley sink  for my input.

For my v-birth install I made a shelf in glassed it in. I mounted the thermostat in the nave table area.

Steve

Ed,

I installed the 16K Flagship 3-4 summers ago. We enjoy the electric heat both in the spring and fall, but also when my boat is hauled for the winter. When doing small tasks on the hard the heat is a wlecome addition.

I built a shelf and installed under the V-berth. There is more vibration then I would like and I have tried numerous rubber type pads under the pan. We sleep in the V-berth from April thru Novenber unless we have a guests and we then retire to the aft cabin.

My original plan was to instll it unter the forward settee and glassed in a shelf for it. On my 5 time measuring I determined that the 16K unit would not fit in the settee opening. I needed less than 1/2". I could have cut back on lip holding the wood cover for the access, but went with the v-berth.

We use the locker by the nav table with roll out shelving and did not want to give up this valuable (to us) space.

I ran duct work to just above the shelf and under the galley sink. with a fan the aft berth is livable.

I have a total of three vents, the one by the galley sink and two into the main cabin. I originally had one into the v-berth, but found that while it got down to 55 degrees it did a better job in the main cabin and the v-berth also cooled down. With our selves or guests we normally never close off the v-berth.

Good luck,

Steve

Paul,

After the A/C has been running on a closed up boat the amount of condensate (condensed water vapor)
will eventually decrease from the initial amount extracted from the air.

Is this water safe to drink? I'm sure there are folks that may, particularly in an emergency situation.
I would think that the outside of the air conditioner unit and your container for the water may not be as clean as you may want.

I also have memories of the past and concerns with "Legionnaires disease"

Just my 2 cents................................

Steve

Paul,

You do not have to bleed, the system is not closed, the intake in the thru hull on the engine side and the exhaust is where its expelled.

As previously stated the amount of water with ether the 2" or 3" HE is minimal.

A 3 minute job and you are good for another 6 months to a year.

Enjoy,

Steve