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I'll have to look back at invoices to see what it cost and the time spent by the yard crew. Because you're still experiencing it after checking the cable run, I'd be inclined to think the internal wire is getting snagged in the sheath. Ok for the pull from the tranny lever, but catching on the push from the binnacle lever. Even though the run looks ok, after yrs of friction, internally it could create a catch. When my mechanic felt the resistance, it was "yep, need to replace the cable". At 32 yrs old at time, I guess I got my money's worth!
Ed

I had the same issue 2 yrs ago. Jammed at the binnacle but shifted smoothly at the transmission lever. I couldn't get those bolts out mainly I think due to the off angle to reach the bolt heads. Turned it over to the boatyard and they of course were able to remove the bolts. They replaced the cable and smoothed out the cable run, which they thought had some sharp turns. Works fine now. Maybe over time those sharp turns created some resistance? Who knows? At least it works fine now and doesn't create a panic at the helm when trying to maneuver!

Regards,
Ed

Can't confirm it since we were away for a few days last week/weekend while couple of tstorms passed though. But when we went to the boat this past Weds, I found the oil pressure alarm that comes on when turning the ignition key over didn't work. At first I thought it was a power issue, but gave the start button a push and the engine turned over as usual. Tried a couple more times to be sure and no start issues other than the silent alarm. Soon I found the raymarine wind indicator not working, the VHF only receiving not transmitting and later that night, my anchor light out. I checked out connections at the mast base and everything looked ok. Got back from an overnight yesterday and plan to do some troubleshooting today. Wondering if I should be placing orders for a new VHF (and maybe antenna which was new this year), wind speed/direction indicator, and pressure alarm (and anchor light bulb). Or wait until the yard can check out the mast head?
Thoughts?
Ed

Debond marine formula is supposed to be the 5200 buster. Haven't tried it myself yet, however.
Good luck with the last one,
Ed

Rees, why is the nut and bolt extension on the outside instead of inside? Was that just temporary or will all bolts and nuts be oriented that way?
Regards,
Ed

Just pulled my stem head off to have some welding done on the cracks that have been highlighted by others. I found a backing plate for the aft bolt but not for the fore bolt. No room! All it had was a trimmed fender washer, the trimmed end facing forward so that it would fit. There was wood "backing" that was actually part of the fore peak support. The strap part of the stem head had a backing plate.
Regards,
Ed

Another location option; I installed my Balmar on the wall of the shelf in the aft cabin. Drilled a hole in the shelf to run the wire sleeve thru.
Regards,
Ed

The link that Craig provided takes you to a Practical Sailor article with an imbedded link to a cng location/price map across the country for trip planning. Michigan has more than one, check it out there may be one closer to you. I went though a similar process last year when I needed a refill and tank retest. The marina I used to source from stopped doing tank swaps. Luckily I found a gas supply company that also does testing and they also pointed me to refill site along a major highway in MA, not far from my house. Just needed to make an appointment as it is not manned. Someone travels to it on a schedule to do refills.
Good luck,
Ed

Jim and Ken, thanks for all the good information! Can always count on forum members to provide deep background.
Jon, essentially anything that involves creation of hazardous waste, be it solid, liquid or aerosol. E.G. bottom sanding, oil changing, pickling the engine. I can wax the hull and with permission, install my winter cover.  If it's a shrink wrap, the yard does it (to avoid errant heat gun accidents, which I was a victim of a couple of times when I had my homemade tarp).
Actually, as I age I don't mind so much. The yard has a stronger maintenance crew than previously, so I'm more trusting of their work - so far.
Regards,
Ed

My marina has gone to full service since last year and require all maintenance to be done by the marina. This year when doing the fall decom, they changed from the Racor R24S that I've aways used, to a R24P. In other words, 2 microns to 30 microns. What are your thoughts on this? Anyone else using the R24P?
Thanks and regards,
Ed

I don't think the type of cover influences the tie down unless it completely envelopes the hull. Otherwise there will always be contact between the hull and tie downs if you don't offset them like you propose. I've had homemade covers of varying coverage as well as my current Fairclough, both tied down across the hull, and have always had ablative paint. No lose of paint. Maybe some light scuffing but nothing that impacted the paint. For my homemade covers I used clothesline cotton line. My Fairclough came with nylon lines. No difference. I would be more concerned with the cover grommets scratching the hull. Be sure to have some backing on them.
Regards,
Ed

The fittings on the tank are pipe on the hose end, at least for new fittings.
Also, if you go with Trident hose, which is very pricy, you can get the 1 1/2" hose  in 12' lengths which is much cheaper per foot and should be all you need for a MK1
Regards,
Ed

A few comments on installation which I did this spring;
1. After leaving the hoses in the sun to soften, I swabbed the inside of the hoses with Lanocote to help slip them over the fittings.
2. Measure the length of the fittings and mark that off on the hose. It will insure you set the hose clamps correctly.
3. Use the good clamps as already suggested
4. Install the lowest hoses first and work up so that you have sufficient room to install and clamp the hoses.
5. Disconnect the mascerator and detach it from the sidewall. It's easier to attach the new hose, get the right angle and get full slip on to the fittings.
6. It's easier to fish the toilet hose though from the head to the tank, rather than the reverse, as you can reach under floor liner to grab it and pull thru the final few feet.
7. Don't forget to replace the vent hose too
8. Use plumbers putty to seal the screw on fittings on the mascerator and vent tank top.

One thing to watch out for; a few years back, mine didn't make it through the winter and I needed to replace it. Got it from Raymarine since I have ST60 instruments. But I couldn't screw the new unit onto its base on the mast head! Since I was up the aft end of the mast I didn't have a clear view. Had a yard guy check it out and it turns out the outer diameter of the collar that screws onto the base was larger that the original and was hitting the masthead top. Solution was to grind a few millimeters off the collar all around. Then it screwed on with no problem. So you may want to check that dimension to save a few extra trips up the mast.

Regards,
Ed

As a reminder to all, if your water flow begins to slow and temp creeps up, before pulling the HX and bringing it somewhere to boil out, pull the raw water hose going into the HX and inspect inside the HX nipple. You may find a mineral blockage that you can break up with a screwdriver. It will get you back in business faster. Had to do that yesterday after I noticed slow flow, even though temp was still ok.

Regards,
Ed