Messages

Fuel pump clicks and seems normal. 

By bleeding from the injector I mean cracking the nut suecuring the fuel line to the injector till diesel flows out then tightening down.

I'm starting to think I have glow plug problem as once I get it going I have no problems at all. It sounds like if I had any kind of air leak I would have engine problems while running. last time I started the engine, I ran it for about 2 hours.

Does the "click" when I hit the glow plugs mean anything?  I can't remember if this always happens or not, I never payed attention.

I'm having some engine problems, I think I know what is wrong, but looking for some advise how to fix.  I am getting air in the fuel supply to the engine, when I bleed the system from the injectors, I get the engine started.  I run for a awhile, shut down, let sit for about an hour and it starts fine, perfect, no hesitation.  I let it sit overnight and I have the same problem as I first had.  I have tightened all the hose clamps, visually inspected the fuel supply lines, and at this point I'm looking for advise on how to find a leak (obviously extremely small) in the fuel lines.  Based on the symptoms, is there a specific place I should look for the leak?  Because I need to bleed it from the injectors, I feel the problem is after the primary fuel filter.  Does it sound like the problem is in the fuel return line?  I have searched the database, but I have not found any tricks or tips, just the diagnosis.  Any help tracking down my leak would be much appreciated.  Thanks.

After reading some posts, do you think my symptoms sound like a glow plug problem?  I hear the "click" when I hit the glow plugs, I get the 2v drop, but if my plugs were not working properly, would I get the engine started by bleeding it?  It seems that if I had some place where I get air in the system, the engine would run rough or die while running, that's not the case.  Hmmmm?

Makes sence when you explain it that way.  Thanks.

I have a 1989, but I am looking at the 2004 Manual for wiring upgrade info, more specifically the 12V wiring diagram, it shows the 20 amp charger comming from a 10 amp breaker at the panel.  I am looking to revise my wiring to place a dedicated breaker for my 20 amp charger, but it seems to me I would want a 20 amp breaker.  It seems to me I could never "max out" my charger (good or bad) meaning I would trip the breaker at the panel, before I could get the full potential out of the charger.  Is this correct?  Any input would be helpful.

I have a very simple set up, only have two single batteries.  I took a quick stab at a diagram showing what I remember.  I will verify this weekend.

You are correct, I do not have a switch for the charger at the panel.  I may have misspoke, the current sequence of AC power from the beginning is shore power to panel, from panel to outlets (specifically the outlet in the head), from the outlet in the head to charger (transformer), from charger to the battery (current suspicious three wire set up).  The output from the charger is the same three wire (white, green,black) as is going in.

If I turn the outlets off, the charger is turned off, makes sense in theory, obviously the charger is aftermarket and connected to the AC power via the head outlet (acting as a junction box). 

I'm trying to draw up a wiring diagram, probably trying to be too specific (the engineer in me), but as I'm sure you know it is a process, everytime you think you got it, some random wire throws you off course.  I'll get it.

I was very suspicious of the three wires to the batteries.  I wish I had the original manual for the charger.  I believe you have confirmed that infact most people have a separate breaker for there charger and the current set up I have is suspect.  I will report back if I find something diffrent this weekend.

I think I got it:

Here is my thought of what the PO was thinking...my guess is that the white and green are both + wires, the thought being if he wired directly to the batteries (not through the 1-2-both) he wanted to charge both batteries, so simply connecting to one battery would not charge both, so by connecting the charger via two + wires (should have been two red wires) and then a black to the -terminal (- terminals are connected between batteries) he could charge both batteries directly from the charger.  In short he used the wire he had available.

Sorry for the jumbled respose, I was brainstorming as I was responding.

Understanding there is a lot of info on chargers, and knowing I need to replace my old style transformer type Charles Charger (probably original from 1989), I am trying to draw up a current wiring diagram before diving into buying a new charger, there are a few questions I have. 

As of now, it appears the 110v comes in from the shore power, to the panel, then out to the outlets.  The charger is placed in the port side lazerete, so the 110v to the outlet in the head runs inside the lazerete to the receptacle, then to the charger, and then to the batteries.  (seems odd)  Also, from the charger three wires are run  (green, white, black) just like the 110v wiring to the battery compartment.  The green goes to + on battery 1, white to + on battery 2, and black goes to - on battery 1.

I always thought that the sequence went from the shore power directly to the charger then to the panel, and from the charger you ran wire to the batteries.

Does this seems correct?  I know there are a few wiring diagrams floating around out there, but all see to be for upgrades, and the original manual does not diagram the charger, hence I'm trying to draw up my own, but does anyone have a "standard" wiring diagram or any advice as to what might be going on, please let me know.

Had the same problem.  Clean all the connections, relpace or redo any splices that may be in the wires from the engine panel to the engine, put in a new fuse between the start button and starter...starts like a champ both cold and hot now.  It comes down to the increase in resistance in the wires when hot making a poor connection a real problem when hot.

Thank you, I knew it was there somewhere.

What is the correct cap for the M-25XP?  I have a small amount of coolant that seems to come from the overflow.  Currently I have a 13psi cap, I can't seem to find the correct pressure for the cap in the manual.  I'm hoping it is just the wrong cap that the PO has used.

My depth gauge is set to 2.3 or 2.4 feet below the waterline.  Seems pretty reasonable.

As for the breakers, think it is work drilling out larger holes, or are there diffrent breakers that fit the stock holes that are better then the push button?

When I turn on the water at the faucet water spots out rather forcefully as if I had just filled the tank or I was trying to run out the last bit of water.  I filled the tanks, so I know I have a water.  The pump doesn't cycle, I know I'm not loosing pressure on the output of the pump.  When I look at the lies as it is pumping, it appears there is air in the line, like it is pumping air into the system.  I cleaned the water filter, checked the screen at the faucet, checked for similar occurrences on the website, but nothing seems fit my symptoms.  Is it possible to get air into the system prior to the pump some how? Any thoughts?

Also, none of my navigation lights are working, rather than chase down each light, do you think there is a common place that would solve my probelm?  I think the breaker for these items is OK as other items work that use that breaker. 

On a separate note, is there a circuit breaker that is readily available at WM that can replace the push button ones?  I would prefer the kind with the toggle, I think they are by Ancor Marine, will they just be a swapout?

Thank you.  I thought I saw something on this.  After checking, I am Hull# 844.  I'll add myself to the database when I get a chance.