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you don't need to touch the track which is a mess no matter what anyone says. Garhauer made a two piece car for me which comes apart to install on the recessed track and hooks back together after inserting; easy as can be.

If you mean in the head, I did. You can get it directly from a dealer for the mfg. Newer boats use a different mfg than my 1990 boat it. I used a Grohe which is a nice unit. I also got a cut off valve which adds to the length a bit so that the water splashes out of the sink but its convenient to be able to stop the flow with one hand while showering.

I  got the same set when my wife's cousin saw them in an antique shop in Conn.
I refinished them and they look great

I replaced the  hot water heater and the thermostat and still the water does not get very hot. Last season, replaced the hoses. When I replaced the heater, I blew water thru etc to make sure of the flow. Its a real enigma

I have a 155 genny on a Harkin drum. It takes a lot of line, for sure.

On my tall rig, 1990 boat, whats the size and length of the furling line?

It binds as I get 2/3 of the sail in. It is possible that the forestay is not as tight as it should be. I appreciate these suggestions and will check them out.

Read Storm Tactics by the Pardey's which I just finished or any of the other wonderful books on the subject.

Hand turning is a good idea and when I replace the old genny with the repaired new one, I will try that. Thanks

"Window" is what Harken calls the opening. It does not roll smoothly.  The rigger and Harken tech guy are certain its not the mechanism but rather the locale of the window and the short run I now have from the block to the "window".  I am not sure how to move the opening on my vintage equipment (1990) but I did get a page from an old manuel. Sounds easier than it looks.

got some helpful info from Harken and a rigger friend of mine. The window may be at right angles to the first block and too close. Apparently the window is suppose to be 4 to 5 feet away from the first block and at a 10 degree upward angle. If my first block were that far away, the line would rub against the  side of the window (opening) which explains a lot. Do others have the recommended set up?

My 18 year old furler turns nicely on the top but seems to grab on the drum. I will replace the original line but any suggestions as to what is to be lubricated and checked? Any link for that? Can it be done with the rigging in place? Thanks PS what is the length and size of that line?

forgive my lack of knowledge but what would the engine thermostat have to do with it. The engine temp seems fine at 165-170 or so.

All the hoses are properly hooked up. I do the bypass in the winter also but I did hook up properly in the Spring. I will, however, check the hot water hoses again. Should I drain the tank of fresh water when the engine is hot to see if it is heating the water or is that a dangerous move? Thanks for all the suggestions.

both hoses to and from the water heater are hot. thats the mystery for me. I suppose I could remove the drain on the heater when the engine has been running for a while and see if hot water comes out. The heater is the original with a 1990 boat but fairly lightly used for what thats worth.