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Messages - fulvio

#1
Main Message Board / Re: M25 Head gasket and shim
June 11, 2017, 03:49:44 PM
I was googling around with exactly the same question.  Too bad nobody posted an answer.
#3
This is not C34-specific, but just in case anyone is interested:

I have a Stern Rail Outboard Motor Mount by Edson, part #521-100ST: 
http://www.edsonmarine.com/marinestore/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=383

In good shape, asking $100 (goes for $338 new).
#4
This is no longer available.
#5
I have a complete dodger frame made of 1" stainless steel tubing.  The dodger fabric is shredded, but the frame is in perfect shape, complete with all the fittings.  Located in Seattle.  Asking $100 (much less than the worth of all the end and joint fittings alone), but shipping cost might be prohibitive.  So I'm giving c34.org users first dibs in case there is anyone local, before posting on craigslist.
#6
Thanks for the reply!

I did that.  It's definitely not a cable adjustment issue.
(In fact, I took the opportunity to replace both control cables.  I should have done that long ago.)
#7
I know there are a ton of posts in this forum about transmission problems, but I was not able to find one that exactly fits my situation.

1989 C34, #929 here.  Universal M25XP, Hurth transmission.

As the title says, my transmission works just fine in reverse.  However, in forward the shaft spins quite slowly (definitely less than 10 revolutions per second), regardless of engine RPM, and so it gives almost no thrust.  As for noises:  I get the usual, satisfying "clunk" when shifting to reverse, but no sound at all shifting to forward.  Other than that, no unusual noises. 
I went so far as disconnecting the control cable, to make sure the shifter lever on the transmission block is moving the full range, but that is not the issue.
Admittedly, when I checked the fluid level it was pretty low - just to the tip of the dipstick.  So I got my hopes up that adding fluid the problem would go away, but no.  I added 100 ml of transmission oil (which I believe is 33% of the 0.3 L capacity according to the manual) and it seems to cover the line in the dipstick now. 

Probably unrelated:  This started happening not long after I replaced my prop with a new Bruntons AutoProp (and added a vetus bullflex flexible shaft coupling), so at first I thought something was wrong with the prop.  But then I had divers go down and replace the zincs and they said the prop is fine (with video to prove it).  I wouldn't exclude that there might be an engine alignment issue, since I also did a bunch of engine work, and that could have caused problems with the transmission.  The low fluid level could be a symptom of that.

Any suggestions before buckling down and taking the transmission out?  I know that means lifting the engine up, removing the bell housing, etc, etc, and I am not looking forward to it.

Thanks!

#8
Ron,

I'm not saying the factory install is a problem.  Otherwise, continuously living aboard full-time for over 13 years would have been quite a different experience.

I am merely suggesting that empirically, configuration B works a lot better, for some (albeit subjective) measure of "better".

Configuration A:  "double on the middle through-hull", with head intake and shower sump pump drain T-eed together (this is the factory install)
Configuration B:  head intake on middle through-hull, and shower sump pump drain moved to port side through-hull

I went from configuration A to conf. B, and the head pumped much, much better.  Then I went back to A, and it felt downright sluggish.  (Although, it does work).

I think it does make sense even theoretically:  the anti-syphon valve is just doing its job, which is to break the column of water by letting in some air when there is suction on the downward arm of the syphon.  In fact, when I went back from conf. B to A I could distinctly hear a little sucking sound coming from the anti-syphon every time I pumped the head, which I never noticed before.

Just my thoughts.
#9
In the process of installing a new hose under the head sink to feed the galley salt-water spigot I learned that having the head intake hose on a through-hull different from the one for the head sump pump dramatically improved the head pump efficiency.  Here is how my three through-hulls under the head sink were plumbed originally:

1. engine raw water intake
2. head intake, teed with sump pump discharge
3. head sink discharge

Wanting to add my galley salt water intake to the combo, I reasoned that it seemed to make more sense to have two intakes teed together and two discharges teed on their own through-hull, instead of mixing intake and discharge on the same through-hull. 

When I did, the head pump flow was much faster and easier than before.  The reason for this, as I discovered, is that when you activate the head pump in the original configuration, you are also sucking air through the anti-syphon valve on the sump pump drain line, making the flush a lot more inefficient.

Unfortunately, there is a reason why putting the sump pump discharge on a T with the head sink discharge is a bad idea:  when you start the sump pump, it will push foul smelling water that stagnates in the hose up the sink.  Yuck!

A possible solution might be to add a shut-off valve in the sump drain hose between the through-hull and the anti-syphon valve, with the disadvantage that one has to remember to open it before starting the sump pump.

Does anyone have a better idea?

I do like the head pump to run that much more smoothly.
#10
Thanks, all.

Ron:  Sounds like your part #F60077 might have been similar to this one:  http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&product_ID=2019&ParentCat=324

If so, I can see the advantage over the one I got:  the 1/2" hose barb looks to be almost 1 foot below the rim of the sink, thus easily accessible from the drawer opening, like you said.

Contrast to the one I got, which is similar to this:  http://www.fisheriessupply.com/fynspray-angled-swiveling-galley-spouts
Except I believe I did not pay that much for it.  You can see that the barb and the tightening nut are only an inch away from the opening on the sink rim, and almost impossible to reach from below.

I think I will return the spigot I bought and order the one from catalinadirect, saving myself the hassle of prying the sink out of the counter.

By the way, I do not have a separate through-hull in the galley area, other than the sink drain.  That's why I ran a hose from the head under the cabin sole to the foot pump, which seems fine.

I'm going to start a new thread now on something I learned in the process of installing this hose, regarding the head pump efficiency.
#11
I searched before posting, and I saw those already, but they don't answer my question:  how to lift the sink?
I don't want to cut an access port.
#12
I want a salt water spigot on my galley sink, in order to conserve fresh water while cruising.  There is a pop-off cover on a hole right next to the main faucet that seems made just for that.  I've already routed a hose from the head sink drain through-hull to the foot-pump (that used to be for the reefer).  And I've already bought a spigot that fits through that hole.  The double sink is the original one.

The problem I'm facing is that the space below the divisor between the two sinks is too narrow, and reaching up to it is nearly impossible from either the water heater door, or the under-sink drawer opening, in order to slip on the hose and tighten the hose clamp.  So it seems this installation will require lifting up the whole sink.  My question:  how is the sink attached to the counter?  Is it just caulking?  Any tips on how to remove it?

Thanks!
#13
Ron,
Good idea, I will call Vetus.
The centering ring is part of the Bullflex assembly, between the hub and the flange.  It's not on the C34.
What the manual says is that depending on whether the boat has one rigid bearing on the shaft only, or two (or more), that ring must be left in the coupling, or removed.
I just thought that others who performed this upgrade would have come across this issue before me.
Thanks!
#14
I just received a new Bullflex flexible shaft coupling, so I'm about to do this upgrade.  The manual talks about a "centering ring" that needs to be removed before installation if the shaft has two rigid bearings.  I quote:

QuoteWhere the propeller shaft is supported by one rigid bearing only, the Bullflex coupling - with the centering ring installed - will function as a flexible ball joint.
When the propeller shaft is installed rigidly which means to say - supported by two (or more) non-flexible bearings - the propeller shaft should not be affected by engine movements.  Therefore remove the centering ring in such an installation.

The picture illustrating the first case (one rigid bearing only) looks a lot like the setup on the C34 - cutlass bearing and packing gland.  The reason I feel a bit uncertain, and hence my question, is that the stuffing box/packing gland looks very much like a rigid bearing to me.  So I don't really know which case applies to the C34.

Have others who installed the Bullflex removed the centering ring, or left it in place?

Thanks!
#15
Thank you all, I guess I'll keep my old cans.

Since I got a very simple siphon hose from West Marine 10 years ago, I never had to worry about pouring, either.