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Messages - Stephen Butler

#1
Main Message Board / Re: Rudder is soaked
November 07, 2016, 07:45:08 AM
Based on our own experience, going with the Catalina factory replacement is the way to go.  Much less expensive, particularly if you can pick it up yourself, as we did.  Given the age of your boat, and the amount of water you found in the rudder, it is doubtful that the steel core is in good condition....perhaps still good, but very doubtful.  As for getting the "new" shaped rudder, it does make a noticeable difference.  Having said all this, if you can handle the glass work, and have a source for the ss material and welding, it would make for an interesting project.   Please keep us all posted.
#2
Main Message Board / Re: 1990 Wildflecken FK 1023 Sold
November 03, 2016, 08:07:51 AM
We had Bill Wiard handling our sale.  Cannot say enough good things about him.  Very professional, very focused, and a great source of market advice.  Good luck with your sale!
#3
Main Message Board / Re: Inflatable repair in Annapolis
October 02, 2016, 11:22:36 AM
We had the same experience with the rub rail on our dingy.  It came loose in several places.  Tried several glues, single and two part, then tried finding a repair shop in Florida that would stand behind their work.  No luck on any of these.  Then we had a slip mate that had a rub rail that had been re-attached with 3M 5200.  Not a pretty job, but it seemed to be working.  We thought about doing the same, but finally settled on going without the rub rail.  Hope this helps.
#4
Main Message Board / Re: Another new owner
September 07, 2016, 03:20:39 PM
Congratulations on a new (to you) C34.  You'll love her!  Just a comment on the original rudder, which you have....take the time and money to thoroughly check out the rudder for any indications of leaks, particularly if there is any rust indications, rusty water, etc.  The original rudder had a mild steel core, which was susceptible to loosing strength and breaking, if water got into the structure, which it could from the top of the rudder. The new style rudder has a stainless structure.   We changed out our 1990 rudder for the new design, not for a weather helm problem, but because of this potential failure, and were glad that we did....the original rudder would have broken in a few more months to a year.  Hope this helps
#5
Main Message Board / Re: In the Market for a 34
September 07, 2016, 03:12:38 PM
Just sold our 1990, sugar scoop, fin keel C34, after 10+ years and would make the following comments: 1) Any sugar scoop stern has the advantages of a stiffer boat, more storage, and a more secure cockpit when off shore in a blow (Ron Hill made these observations years ago, and he is certainly right)   The scoop is also a great help in boarding a dingy, diving, etc.; 2) We have never quite understood the fascination with wing keel versus the fin keel, as we sailed for a decade in the "thin" Florida waters without difficulty.  The wing keel in theory does give a shallower draft, but in practice, with the boat healed over, we saw little difference, and did not have to contend with the difficulties of a wing keel if going aground.  And we certainly appreciated the windward ability of a fin keep to keep us off shore in a blow.;3)
The C34 layout is fantastic!  One of the best live-aboard, and at-sea layouts we had seen.  Hope this helps. 
#6
Just to second Ron Hills comment, having used the emergency tiller in an emergency situation, it is not a fun exercise.  Depending on the situation, which in our case did not give enough time to dismount the wheel, we had to quickly lash   the center of a line to the short emergency tiller, and then run each end over to the cockpit sides, to get some semblance of  control.  We kept the line on the emergency tiller for a few years afterward, but of course, never had a situation to use it again.  We were certainly glad to have the emergency tiller on the one occasion, but it really is for very quick and very brief use.  Hope this helps.
#7
Main Message Board / Re: Dinghy Sling MKll
September 02, 2016, 06:27:16 AM
We had a 11 foot Avon dingy, that we always towed.  If the dingy was fully inflated, with no OB or other gear aboard, and towed a distance away from the stern, say 6 to 10 feet, it usually cost us 0.5 kt. If the dingy was towed, snug against the stern, with its bow slightly elevated and onto the sugar scoop, we could never measure any difference in speed.  We did this measurement approximately 10 times, with the same outcomes. As we were coastal cruisers, and never raced, it was an easy trade-off to have the dingy readily available.  Should add that we never carried the dingy on deck, even in storm conditions off-shore; just brought her up snug to the stern.   Hope this helps.   
#8
Main Message Board / Re: 1990 Wildflecken FK 1023 Sold
August 08, 2016, 05:56:41 PM
The new owner definitely knows about the C34 Org.  Also left a note on the nav station just to make the point.   As to future plans, we are not sure if there is another boat in our future, or some extensive chartering, or what.  As to any thanks, the organization really desires ours.     
#9
Main Message Board / 1990 Wildflecken FK 1023 Sold
August 07, 2016, 05:04:19 PM
Regret to say that our 1990 C34 fin keel is no longer ours.   After 10 years, we decided to let her go and to consider some other alternatives.  A tough decision for us both, to let a great boat leave our lives. Must add that Massey did a great job showing our boat.   We will certainly stay in the C34 Org., and thank the organization for its 10 years of friendship and fantastic technical help.  Fair winds! 
#10
Main Message Board / Re: Beware the low-hour diesel
July 16, 2016, 11:32:34 AM
Interesting topic.  Two points: 1) Engine use:  The engine on our 1990, C34 has averaged 30 hours per annum.  In the 16 years that we have owned the boat, the average annual use has risen to 50 hours.  We sail the boat continuously for 2 months a year, and then put her on the hard for the remaining time.  So if we were to run an entire 12 months, I suppose we would be in the 300 hour range.  But so what.  The engine is thoroughly maintained, both at launch and also when we go back onto the hard.  No problems to date.  From my own experience, both in the Caterpillar diesel world and with our own engine, the key is regular and professional maintenance, and not some annual hourly use number.  2) Diesel loosing its BTU?  It is possible for older fuel to have some of the volatiles evaporate off, which would reduce the BTU, but this usually takes years and requires rather sustained hot weather.  I have personally not seen this, but have been with others that have.  I would worry more about water and critters.  Hope this is of help.
#11
Main Message Board / Re: Water in my bilge
June 27, 2016, 11:12:45 AM
Had the same problem and traced it to a cracked fitting on the aft water tank.  Then went through the boat and changed all the fittings on the water tanks and also the anchor well.  Tried to do something about rain water coming down the mast, and applied some material in the sail grove, which helped a little.  Hope this helps.
#12
Main Message Board / Re: Fin Keel Locations
August 13, 2015, 05:49:07 PM
Thank you for all your advice.  We will continue to list our boat for awhile and see what occurs.  As for trucking a 25 year old boat, even if it is in very good condition, updated, etc., just does not seem worthwhile, at least at this point.  As for changing out the keel to a wing configuration, really big bucks.  So we will wait and see for a while longer.  Thanks again everyone.
#13
Main Message Board / Fin Keel Locations
August 12, 2015, 03:48:47 PM
First, my apologies for a sales related question as opposed to a more technical issue.  We are reluctantly selling our boat, but have run up against the issue of our keel, which is a fin and not a wing.  The boat was purchased in Florida, is currently in Tampa Bay, and we have extensively sailed in Gulf coastal waters for many years without grounding (one watches the depth finder and uses charts).  We are now being told that fin keel boats do not generally sell well in the Gulf region, and that we should consider shipping the boat to where fin keels are preferred.  People keep telling to head North, but without giving any specific locations.   Our questions are: 1) how valid is this problem with fin keels in the Gulf, as we had never heard it before, and 2) "...where North?"   The Great Lakes, Long Island Sound, where?   Again, we are not trying to sell the boat on this site (it is already listed with a broker), but are looking for some guidance.  Any help would be appreciated.
#14
Thanks Stu!  We intend to stay with the C34I Association, even without a C34, assuming that is okay.  And who knows, we may yet have another C34 on the Bay.   
#15
Main Message Board / Re: Keels, Tall Rigs, etc.
April 26, 2015, 05:26:53 AM
As a fellow that has just listed his 1990 boat, but is located far from you, let me make a few comments. 
1) As Stu has said, the pointing difference between a fin and wing keel is so slight that it can be dismissed.  As an old physicist, I love measuring things and after 10 years of data collection, can fully support Stu's observations; As for any preferences, our experience with a fin keel in thin waters is that it doesn't actually matter, as heeled fin keel draws about the same as a heeled wing keel, and is easier to free if aground.
2) If you are going down the ICW, and have anything on your mast top, forget the higher mast.  Also, with a 150 on the bow, the sailing difference is nil;
3) As Noah mentioned, get the engine thoroughly checked as in older boats, it will represent the greatest percentage of value, up to 40% if replacement is needed. As a very general rule of thumb based on comments from many Universal/Westerbake/Caterpillar dealers, with good maintenance, the engine should be good for up to 3500 hours before a top-end job is needed. The pumps, starter, and alternator are another matter;
4) Regarding pricing for older C34s, let me give you some details as we are now going through the process.  We have listed our 1990 boat, which has been updated and is in excellent condition except where noted below, for $40K.  The local Catalina distributor thought the boat should be listed in the $50K to $55K range, but we wanted a quick sale for a variety of reasons, including that we now live in California and the boat is in Florida.  Also, being realistic, a new owner will have to do bottom paint, buff and wax the deck, and do the teak on deck, as well as adding a new permanent mount GPS. To find a 1990 C34 with a low hour engine, reasonable sails, a dingy, an o/b, etc., etc., you can expect to pay $45K to $50K, after the negotiations are done.   Then, expect to invest another $5K in various other items and changes; keep in mind what a nearly new replacement or new replacement would cost.
5) Regarding a professional survey, get one if you wish, but remember that you are dealing with a 25 year old sailboat and can pretty much quickly tell if the owners kept it in shape.  If funds are limited, do an in-water survey, and an engine survey;
6) Make sure that whatever older boat is purchased, it has the "newer" rudder with the improved shaped and the ss internal grid.

Hope this is of some help to you in your search.  The C34 is a great boat.