Messages

Jeff,

Ron will chime in to back me up, but if you've still got a plastic fuel cap, replace it with a new stainless assembly.  Also, fuel is cheap enough that if you suspect contamination, it's practical to pump out the existing fuel and replace it with clean disel.  You can remove the line from your secondary filter to the engine (the one under the sink in the head), and rig a 1/4" ID temporary line that will allow you to use your electric fuel pump to pump the fuel from the tank into jerry cans.  If your tank is older than about 7-10 years, you might also think about pulling it and cleaning it out.  There's quite a bit of Tech Note savy and other info in the Wiki section.  Also, there's another phenomenon that I recently encountered called "wet disel" where there is literally too much water in suspension in the fuel--that is the result of additives.  Fuel chemistry is beyond my limited mental capability, and after a couple of experiences I've become a fan of adding nothing to the fuel and just making sure that it stays resonably fresh.  I've had more success with that approach than I have with getting the perfect chemical cocktail mixed in the tank (and this gets harder if your fuel supplier already pretreats the fuel!).

Cheers,

Vac 

Folks,

Our boat is still on the market    We've reduced the asking price to $43,000 as of 20 July 2010.  We originally purchased her in 2002 and have spent over $30,000 upgrading and re-fitting her since then.  She's on Yachtworld, listed with a broker and available for showing/sailing any time.  We'll entertain all reasonable offers.  There are more details in the "for sale" section of this site as well.  I'm confident she's one of the nicest Mark I's on the market in terms of general condition and systems.  I'm befuddled that there's been almost no interest from any perspective buyers or any folks that might consider moving her to a new location??? 

Cheers,

Vac
Former C34 Tech Editor 

Steve,

You might just consider removing the starter and having a local automotive electrical shop overhaul it.  Here's a link to the caveman overhaul approach if you're interested in trying it yourself:  http://www.c34.org/projects/projects-slow-starter-fix.html

Cheers,

Vac

Folks,

Thank you very much for the advice.  We do have the boat listed with a local broker, and have reduced the asking price...I'll also put some of the other thoughts posted here to use.   

I think one of the best features of the boat is the exceptional support offered by C34 Association.  Great folks, great resource for any one with or interested in the C34.  Thanks again.

Cheers,

Vac 

Folks,

We've been trying to sell our '88 Mark I for the past six months and haven't even received an offer of any amount.  If there are folks on the board in the market for a '34 or have sold one, I would sure appreciate your input/ideas/advice.  The boat is listed in the "For Sale" section of the website...here's the link:  http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,5215.0.html.

I fully understand the state of the economy and the uncertainty most folks face, so fire away with advice! 

We're selling because of growing family commitments and the need to remodel our house.  There's no way we'll recover our investment (but it was worth every cent when you divide by the number of days on the water and multiply by the square root of perfect sunsets!), guess I'm just a bit taken aback that there is little interest in a boat that has been gone through completely--or perhaps there just isn't a C34 market right now.

Cheers,

Vac

Mike,

They're still working great.  Also supplemented with some inexpesive battery-operated "puck" LEDs throughout the boat.  I put these primarily in places not ordinarily lit--under the sink in the galley to light the water transfer valves and sea cocks, in the engine compartment and under the head sink.  Pretty handy at night.

Cheers,

Vac

Data point:  We run a 165 deg thermostat in Gulf waters.  In the summer, with water temps in the mid-80's, the overall system temp runs about 180 degrees.  The system runs 165-170 in the winter with water temperatures dipping into the mid-50's. 

Cheers,

Vac

Mahendra,

Yup--you are correct.  I'm referring to the nuts that secure the exhaust flange...they require periodic re-torquing.

Cheers,

Vac

Mahendra,

We used fiberglass tape wrapped around the SS riser and held in place with laced stainless #40 safety wire.  The fiberglass tape works well and we don't use any additional insulation, although you could certainly wrap some additional insulation around the riser.  The only caveat is to make sure that whatever you use is designed for high temperature use.  I also recommend the use of high-temperature silicone in conjunction with the exhaust gasket.  I find that I have to occasionally re-torque the riser nuts.   

Cheers,

Vac

They are.  The photo shows the condition of the coupling after six years of service.  Regular greasing of the running gear is important to avoid signficant corrosion issues.    

I concur with Ron, 4 K50's are probably a bit soft.  Recommend 75's on the aft end and 50's in front for M-25XP.  There is a step by step in the Tech Notes--you can access that section of the site if you're a C34 Association Member.  You might also think about shaft replacement, cutlass bearing and packing.  You will need a torque wrench and a metric bit to properly secure the compression fitting.  The coupling comes with instructions, be sure to follow them--you DON'T grease the shaft when you install it, it must be dry.  It can be greased after everything is together or treated with Boeing T-9 or an equivalent product.  

Cheers,

Vac

Take your time and do your research...As Stu said, this site is your best resource.    

Beyond the basic design, boats are really a sum total of parts and systems.  Boats are complex machines and require regular maintenance, regardless of purchase price.  A well-maintained older boat can often be a better deal than a newer vessel.  A proper refit can often cost more than a boat is worth, so some of the best values on the used markets are older boats that have been throughly refit but are being sold for one reason or another at market prices.  Markets tend to move slowly this time of year, and with the current economy, you can afford to be a choosy looking for your new boat!    

The basic Catalina 34, regardless of year of manufacture, is well-built for coastal cruising.  If you absolutely must have a feature (walk through transom, deck stepped mast, or wing keel for example), then that will limit the search somewhat.  Just about all of the features of a later hull can be re-fit to an earlier hull.    

It's a buyer's market, and you shouldn't limit your search to the local area--the cost of shipping can be well worth it for the right boat.  

Best of Luck!

Mike

...One other thing to consider is that there's a fairly significant overlap between the C34 and C36 in many regards.  It might be worth broadening your search to include both types.    

Lance,

We installed the PHII in our '88.  The foot print on the shelf will be slightly different than your factory installed head.  There's a write-up in the Mainsheet, but the two important points are that you'll likely have to re-drill the discharge hole through the vertical bulkhead to be able to route the hose properly, and you'll want to be careful drilling the lag bolts for the base mounting, since the liner is very close to the hull and you could accidentally drill into the hull (or worse!).  One other thing to consider is replacing all of the hose with a high-quality odor free type and adding an anti-siphon loop to the head intake line to prevent flooding on starboard tack if someone leaves the valves open! 

Cheers,

Mike

Multi-vis provides a bit of flexability if you sail year round, but you can't go wrong with straight 30 weight.  Ron's point is valid about mixing/changing brands.  The most important thing to remember is to change your oil frequently--25-50 hour intervals maximum, depending on your operating temperature (lower oil temps mean more frequent changes).  Although most of us don't have oil temperature gauges, the important thing is to ensure that the oil is allowed to heat to at least 180 degrees F each time the engine is run.  If not, any water present from condensation will not boil out of solution, and will eventually combine with other contaminates that are the buy products of combustion to form acid. 

Along with a supply of clean fuel, frequent oil changes are the most inexpensive preventative maintenance you can do for your small diesel.

Folks,

After almost eight wonderful years of plying our corner of at least one of the Seven Seas with our C34, Spirit, changing life circumstances have conspired to make us consider putting her up for adoption.  You won't find a nicer Mark I for sale!  Please see our add in the C34 For Sale Section.  She's lying in the Ft. Walton Beach/Destin portion of the Florida Panhandle.

Cheers,

Mike

We've found that the Kiwi will feather about 50% of the time if you simply leave the engine in neutral after you shut down.  If you shift into forward for 3-5 seconds AFTER the engine is shut down and then return to neutral, it will feather every time.  On our boat, we can hear the shaft turning if we open the door underneath the head sink (easier than pulling the engine cover!).

Cheers,

Mike