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Messages - Robert Mann

#1
Main Message Board / Mk II Aft Lockers
April 17, 2023, 06:17:01 AM
A simple question.  How have people cleaned the inside of the stern of the Mk II hull?  Through the aft port and starboard lockers, or by removing the aft water tank and "crawling in", I have zero chance of going through the lockers.

Second point regarding water in bilge.  When there is a heavy storm here I get water in my normally bone dry bilge.  Finally, I think I have found the answer.  The fridge compressor on my Mk II is located in the starboard aft locker, I believe by the factory. In an attempt to duct cool air to the fan they have added a "y" fitting, right above the compressor in the bilge fan exhaust duct (plastic dryer hose).  This Y fitting is open, an I believe in a heavy blow over the stern water gets into the rear of the boat and runs to the bilge.  If you have a similar issue open the starboard aft locker stand on your head and look upwards and you will see the duct, which terminates in the hooded vent on the transom.  See if there are water tracks evident.  This will cause water to puddle in the indentation towards the stern.

#2
If you pull the woodwork from in front of the engine (step mountings etc), it is a lot easier to access the head side on the Mk II boats.  It is still a PITA but a reduction in pain.  It pays to get a mirror in there to look at the hose and oil pressure switch set up to see where the oil is coming from. 
#3
Main Message Board / Re: Gennaker rigging
April 19, 2022, 05:15:04 PM
Hi Patches
I have rigged mine with the ATN tacker and that works well.  However, I really want to rig another system from the stem fitting, where the forestay attaches using a downhaul, but I haven't figured out a good way yet.  The Mk II is a bit tight from a clearance perspective, as seen from the photo.  One thing I wouldn't do, on a permanent basis, is attach a block to the bail on the anchor guide.  There has been a lot of discussion about that, but my feeling is that system is meant to be under a compressive load, as with an anchor, not under tension as the spinnaker will apply, especially when it's in a blow.
#4
Main Message Board / Re: size of pss seal shaft
February 22, 2022, 09:13:07 AM
Did the same job in 2020 on my MK II, I used the 1.5" dia.  Good tight fit over the stern tube, don't go big. As waughoo said, PYI are very helpful with phone advice.
#5
I would replace the Windex (mechanical wind direction indicating arrow).  Because the red tail indicators fall off eventually and the thing looks like crap, and I am not going up the mast just for that.
#6
Main Message Board / Re: PSS shaft seal
September 17, 2021, 06:37:13 PM
Andre, I believe Noah is correct, the new units come with the vent hose.  I only replaced the bellows, clamps and locking screws using the service kit.  I "burp" mine on the rare occasions it is has been out of the water and returned, by separating the ceramic from the stainless collar by hand. 
#7
Main Message Board / Re: PSS shaft seal
September 15, 2021, 03:47:11 PM
Andre, I have the PSS shaft seal in my MkII and it has performed well.  I replaced it at more than double the life recommended by the manufacturer, which I'm not proud of.  My boat is in fresh water and after about 18 years the spring was weakened and water would bypass the ceramic seal when the boat was backing down with the transmission in reverse.  I replaced the bellows with the service kit, lapped the stainless steel collar and back it all went.  If you do the work yourself pay close attention to the locking grub screws.  Attached is a picture of mine showing the clearance with a standard coupling, if you have any other layout check the dimensions, (I do know the Buck Algonquin, split coupling will not fit on my boat).
#8
Graham, welcome aboard.  You will find a wealth of knowledge in this owner group.  It has helped me countless times.  Mine is No. 1622, built in 2002, a few years difference, but in the MkII not much seems to have changed
#9
Main Message Board / Re: Headliner question
August 01, 2021, 05:04:03 PM
Brian, pull the trim ring from the main hatch and see if the core is damaged due to a leak around the hatch, or down the screws that hold it in place.  Probe it with a stiff wire and see what you find.  the leak may or may not show up inside the boat, but the water travels in the core and rots it.  Mine needed the balsa core replaced on the forward port side due to this.  Its not a hard repair, just messy and time consuming as the core needs to be dug out and then dried before replacing it with new material and pumping epoxy in.
#10
Main Message Board / Re: K&N Air Filter
July 19, 2021, 11:03:50 AM
Ken, I used K&N part number RU2450, fits the intake manifold, but doesn't have a securing point for the crankcase breather pipe so that is pointing in the general direction.
#11
I have recently replaced the Martec, 2 bladed folder with the Campbell Sailer fixed 3 blade.  I never had good luck with the Martec.  The engine needed to run at far too low an idle to enable a decent engagement of the transmission.  The prop was extremely noisy during opening and from the feels of things exerted a good deal of strain on the drive train.  With Campbell Sailer I can idle between 900 and 1000rpm, the engine is smooth and the shift from forward to reverse is much calmer.  This not a damnation of folders, just my experience with one brand.
#12
Pbyrne, I threw mine away after the foam disintegrated, as I was concerned that the cheap mesh would end up in the engine.  Everyone believes marine engine compartments are clean, but with belt dust and other odd bits of detritus that seems to find it's way out of the bilge etc  they aren't so clean.  I fitted the KN filter RU-2450.  This one fits the intake horn on the M35-B, and tidies things up.
#13
Main Message Board / Microwave mounting
May 08, 2021, 11:27:52 AM
I have, after following a thread from Stu, found a microwave that fits in the center cabinet, above the ice box.  Has anyone discovered a neat way of holding their microwave into that space? 
#14
If the outer hatch screws are not sealed properly a leak will cause the balsa to rot.  Keep an eye on that. I have a small weep hole drilled in each corner of the surround so water can drip if there is a leak, perhaps giving an early warning
#15
I hear you Mick and Jim, I am done reaching under and over that piece of cabinetry, 5 minutes of my time spent yanking it out and I can see and reach the lot, with ease.  Putting another, lower, access door in it might make life a bit smoother.