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Messages - Mick Laver

#1
Hi Peter
Sorry I should have posted something. The sail has been sold.

My rig's a standard.

- Mick
#2
Hi Whidbey. I'll take this offline and send a PM.
#3
Hi Whidbey
Sorry for the late reply. Yes I still have it.
- Mick
#4
We bought a cruising asym for our 34 back in 2019 and have used it exactly once; when the sailmaker came out with us to make sure everything worked to our spec. It did, it was beautiful, and we never used it again.  I underestimated the amount of time we'd use it for the kind of sailing my wife and I do, as well as the work involved for two people 'of a certain age.' The sail was built by Luis Gianotti (LG Sails) in San Diego, who was a designer for UK Sails before he went out on his own.

Asymmetric spinnaker from LG Sails. Cruising model, step up construction, front and foot sections 1.5 oz, back 0.75 ox. Challenge nylon (40/60% mix). 4-color layout. Spinnaker box bag. ATN Spinnaker sleeve

Rigging for spinnaker:
- 140' 3/8" (10mm) regatta braid for spinnaker sheet
- 1 Ronstan RF6210 snap shackle for spinnaker tack line
- 3 Ronstan RF44100 blocks, swivel head 12mm rope, for spinnaker sheet fairleads (on aft cleats) and tackline (on anchor roller bale).
- 2 Ronstan 6mm soft shackle for turning blocks.

We spent over 3300 USD for the sail and associated rigging. I'd like to get 2K. I've attached some pix from our trial run.

Thanks
- Mick



#5
Hi Robert
You don't actually have to remove the cabinetry to get your 17mm box end on either the top dipstick plug or the bottom drain plug. It's a little more of a reach but not too bad. PG-13 words.
#6
I've always thought the boat's supposed to break the anchor out, not the windlass.
#7
Hi Alex
How old are you and how's your back. :)

Seriously, a big part of the equation is the chain you're going to use. I have 1/4" G43 which strength-wise seems to be a good fit for our 34s. It's also only .75 lbs/foot. I do have a windlass but I've had to pull 80 ft by hand (33# Rocna) from 25 ft depth and it wasn't bad. I just went slow. I'm assuming you have someone else driving up on the anchor while you're pulling.
#8
Main Message Board / Re: Whisker pole operation
November 25, 2020, 08:36:25 PM
I'd be curious to hear from anyone with a mast-mounted whisker pole. In theory, a mast-mounted pole is much easier to deploy so you are more likely to use it. True, mast mounting requires additional rigging, a longer track, a moving car, and probably adds 30% to the cost of the system. Not to mention the additional labor to set it up. However, like most of you I've seen whisker poles that never leave their stanchion chocks - even when sea/wind conditions are perfect. They're too much of a PITA to set up, especially short handed. So what's the true cost if you shelled out x bucks for something you never use vs. 1.3x bucks for something you do?

The times I've used whisker poles (other people's boats. I don't have one ... yet) I've really been happy we had the option.
#9
Main Message Board / Re: Mantus on bow roller
November 25, 2020, 06:17:58 PM
Hi Jeff,
I'm a bit confused. Are you talking about retrieving the anchor? You'll probably just have to do the final pull by yourself, getting the anchor shackle or swivel to the bow roller with the windlass and then pulling the anchor straight up by hand. While the VW500's gypsy will yank the anchor over the bow roller I try to be nice to it and give it some help. It only has a 500# pull.

Quote from: skyward on November 21, 2020, 07:01:17 PM

Mick, I picked up the 35# Mantus M-1. I rigged it up (I'm out of the water right now) up on my bow roller with a shackle and a rode for test purposes. When it is installed firmly into the bow roller, it looks just like yours. But I had trouble getting enough momentum or leverage to get it to roll over the roller, because the shank is so long and straight. When the end of the shank gets right up to the roller, then the business end of the shank is getting a force pulling aft from the shackle/rode ad a force vertically down from the anchor. It is a dilemma. Have you seen this?

BTW: You are lucky with that gypsy!
#10
Main Message Board / Re: Mantus on bow roller
November 14, 2020, 05:47:06 PM
Hi Jeff
The Mantus is actually my backup to a Rocna 15kg. Both are great anchors, but since the Mantus can be broken down and stowed conveniently it gets "backup" status. The pictures were taken when I was making sure the Mantus would fit properly. Obviously it does. The way it would be secured is identical to the Rocna which is:
- A length of electrical wire loosely wrapped around the anchor swivel at the aft end of the bow roller
- A 1/4" Wichard chain hook attached to the chain. The hook is on 1/4" Sampson which is looped around the cleat in the anchor locker. The loop is tightened with a rolling hitch.
- The hatch on the anchor locker, if latched, should also help to keep the anchor from getting too frisky. You can close the hatch completely with both the Mantus and the Rocna. Not so with some others I looked at.
- The windlass itself. As a last resort the chain is loosely draped over the chain gypsy. And no, we probably both have the Maxwell VW500 but the original buyer ordered the (now unavailable) combination gypsy/windlass head for the VW500. The gypsy accomodates 1/4" short-link chain.

- Mick
#11
Main Message Board / Re: Mantus on bow roller
November 11, 2020, 09:11:06 AM
Here ya go.
#12
Main Message Board / Re: ST4000+ autopilot
September 22, 2020, 05:31:07 PM
I assume your clock positions are looking forward, in which case mine is at 8 o'clock. I pull the lever up to engage and it's no where near the instrument panel. Or am I not understanding the problem? I can certainly attach a picture.

On another subject, my ST4000+ has been pretty good after adjusting the responsiveness setting. It's not particularly fond of following seas but I doubt many wheel APs are. What do you like better about the EVO100?
#13
Main Message Board / Lazy sheet gets frisky
September 13, 2020, 09:36:31 PM
Yesterday after a very long stbd broad reach I jibed to head back to the barn. I then noticed that I had mis-fed the stbd jib sheet through through the genoa car. Rather than tack to take the load off the working stbd jib sheet I figured I could re-run it while under load.

Hah.

The stbd sheet got away from me (of course) and the the jib and both sheets started flailing as you might imagine. I was able to wrestle the stbd sheet, get it re-run through the car, and get things back to some semblance of normalcy. After a deep breath I happened to glance at the lazy sheet on the port side and was astounded to see that with all the thrashing around the wind had managed to tie this exquisite knot on the port stanchion just forward of the gate. I thought I'd share. Needless to say, I couldn't find it in Ashley. :D
#14
Main Message Board / Re: Steam in exhaust M35B
September 01, 2020, 09:02:32 AM
Hi Ken
It's gray, and the $396 is what I paid in August 2019. I guess the price has gone up.

WRT to the copper vs. copper/nickel tubing material, neither Go2Marine nor the manufacturer (Seakamp) make a seawater/freshwater distinction. I'd like more info about your reports of failure of the copper.

Thanks.
#15
Main Message Board / Re: Steam in exhaust M35B
August 31, 2020, 06:21:33 PM
Hi all. I know this is an old post, but I want to close the loop as it were. To recap, I wanted to use the far superior Oberdorfer N202-908 raw water pump in favor of the M35B's "standard" Sherwood G-908. The Oberdorfer is better made and easier to service than the Sherwood, and there have been stories of catastrophic failures of the Sherwood. Kind of a no-brainer. However, I noticed when I swapped out the Oberdorfer for the Sherwood I started to see steam in my exhaust, which I attributed to insufficient cooling of the raw water due to the Oberdorfer's lower pumping flow rate.  I knew many people had swapped out the pumps on M25s so I thought it might be an artifact of the M35.

I had replaced all the hoses, both fresh and raw, and was using a newly boiled-out and refurbished HX, so the only explanation seemed to be the raw water pump. I settled into a routine where I'd use the Oberdorfer for day-to-day getting in and out of the slip day sailing, but if we were going to "go" anywhere (>25 nm say) I'd swap in the Sherwood. Boy am I good at swapping out raw water pumps.

So end of last summer after our 250nm circle to Catalina I prepared to take the HX in for cleaning and refurb. My one was installed in May 2009 by the PO, and it would be my third refurbishment. I thought "maybe it's time" and started looking at buying a new one. The Universal replacement (part 201027) is breathtaking ... over $800. However, the internets led me to a company called Go2Marine in Seattle that sells an American-made drop-in replacement for $396. Great quality of the HX, great support from the company.

And no steam in the exhaust with the Oberdorfer. As I mentioned, I did this all end of last year, but didn't want to post anything until I'd given the new HX a workout. We just finished our 250nm trip (with water temps up to 77deg F.) with the new HX and the Oberdorfer, and no issues.

So perhaps there's a limit to how often an HX can be boiled out and still be OK. I still think an inefficient HX and an Oberdorfer is a bad combination, but the problem is with the HX more than the pump.