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Messages - Dave Spencer

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 27
1
Main Message Board / Re: advice on upgrading mainsheet blocks
« on: July 08, 2019, 04:24:37 PM »
Yet another endorsement for Garhauer.  They are very high quality parts and their customer service is fantastic.  I love it every year when they brave the cold and come to the Toronto Boat Show in January.  I usually have a list.  If I contact them before they come to the show, they will bring what I need and hold it for me.  Great people.  This is one of the rare happy cases where the best product and best service is reasonably priced.
 

2
Main Message Board / Re: AC outlets not working
« on: July 08, 2019, 04:14:44 PM »
Bob,
Welcome to the forum.  You'll get lots of help here.
To level set Ken who is very knowledgable on marine systems but has a C30 (I think), I've attached a couple of pictures of the C34 AC power panel and used the nomenclature Bob used in his original question. 
Stu's right, the manual can be your friend.  http://c34.org/wiki/images/b/b1/1988-C34-Owners.pdf  Page 32 of the Mk 1 manual has an AC wiring diagram that shows three distinct branches; one for the chart table (what you call the "Main"), one for the head, and one for the V-berth, galley and aft cabin.  The schematic show the plugs aren't on their own breaker; they are protected by the 30A main breaker.  (seems unlikely, especially based on comments above from Mk1 owners)  This is different from my Mk 1.5 where the outlets are shown to be protected by a 20A breaker and they are all daisy chained together with Ground Fault Protection for all plugs provided by the outlet at the chart table.  Page 39 here for Mk 1.5  http://c34.org/wiki/images/6/61/C34_Manual_4th_Edition.pdf
Neither manual / schematic shows a circuit for the battery charger nor is the transom breaker shown.  (On my boat and I suspect on most, there is a 30 Amp breaker at the power entry plug on my transom as is required by code and good practice.)  The Mk II manual has captured all of this fairly well in its schematic on page 38 here. http://c34.org/wiki/images/d/dc/C34-mkII-owners-manual.pdf
So, in this case, the Mk I and 1.5 manuals are likely not incorrect but appear to be incomplete. 
You've likely already tried this but to narrow it down, get an outlet tester and check each receptacle.   Ensure the GFI "reset" button on the outlet at the chart table is pushed in.  If you only have the chart table working, try tripping the GFI receptacle by pushing "test".  You should have no voltage at any receptacle including the chart table.  If you suspect a splice and you have confidence, unplug the boat and inspect the splice.  Check the connections at the bus bars.  Ensure the GFI receptacle is wired correctly.  If you have confidence, proceed carefully and systematically.  If not, get help.

Let us know how you make out.


3
Main Message Board / Re: Fuel sending unit read full all the time
« on: June 28, 2019, 10:03:05 AM »
Good advice from all.  Donít give up on your gauge yet. As Jon pointed out, you have used very little fuel and it wouldnít be surprising if the gauge stayed on full assuming you started with a full tank. Also, keep in mind gauges / senders arenít necessarily linear. Over time, you will develop a sense for your fuel consumption based on engine hours. I used about the same amount of fuel as Jon indicated in his earlier post. For planning purposes, I assume a burn rate of 3 litres/hr which is 3/4 USG / hr (approximately). I usually burn less but if powering hard in rough seas, 3 l/hr is about right. I assume a max run time of 25 hours per tank  based on a 25 USG tank (95 litres), assume 20 litres is unusable leaving me with 75 litres to burn at 3 l/hr. All of this is very conservative and I rarely run more than 15 hrs without filling up. 
Bottom line - no hurry to condemn the gauge or sender. If, in time, you determine the gauge or sender is bad, you have lots of great advice on this post and elsewhere on this site to correct.
Let us know how you make out.

4
Main Message Board / Re: Albemarle Loop Question
« on: June 20, 2019, 04:16:13 PM »
James,
I just checked out your website on Free ICW Docks. What a great resource.  :clap Thanks for pulling it together. We plan to head down the ICW to The Bahamas likely in 2021. Assuming your site is still up and running, you can be sure that we will use it for planning and while under way and will provide you with feedback as we make our way south.

5
Main Message Board / Re: Secondary Fuel Filter
« on: June 14, 2019, 04:18:54 PM »
Great information Ken. Thanks. I definitely see the voltmeter as the gauge to sacrifice in favour of an oil pressure gauge. Thereís merit to moving the fuel gauge since it isnít something you need to refer to every few minutes but i want to retain it and donít want to relocate it below decks. I count on my battery monitor and solar panel meter below decks to give me accurate house battery voltage and donít need the cockpit gauge. Looks like a good off season project for this winter.

6
Main Message Board / Re: Secondary Fuel Filter
« on: June 14, 2019, 02:15:27 PM »
Good observation Ken. Yes, the tabs are bent. I suspect from some previous manipulation although possibly due to stiff wire. At some point, Iíd like to revisit that area and add a pressure sender and replace the voltmeter at the instrument panel with an oil pressure gauge. Has anyone done this?  What kind of thread on the sender will I need?  Is it a simple 1/8ĒNPT or something more exotic? 

7
Main Message Board / Re: Secondary Fuel Filter
« on: June 14, 2019, 12:53:02 PM »
MarcZ,
Bleeding the M35A is fairly easy with only one complication.
I simply open the knurled knob (hopefully you know what and where that is... if not, I can add a pic) and put the key in the "run" position at the cockpit instrument panel.  The complication is that there is a much discussed circuit in the M35A and possibly other engines that stops the fuel pump if the oil pressure is zero but allows the fuel pump to run if the glow plugs are activated.  I don't like holding the key in the "glow" position for the length of time it takes to bleed the fuel system due to the the power drain and what I view as unnecessary wear and tear on the glow plugs.  So, when I'm bleeding the fuel system after changing filters, I cut a short piece of wire and short circuit the oil pressure switch allowing the fuel pump to run with the engine off and the key in the "run" position.  Pics below.  Maybe someday I'll make this semi-permanent and add a switch instead of the jumper wire.  I don't fill the filters with fuel before replacing them.  This seems like an opportunity to spill fuel given my occasional clumsy nature.  I simply let gravity and the fuel pump do its job and after a few minutes, the system is bled.  With practice, you will be able to tell the system is bled by the sound the fuel pump makes.
Others may have different approaches but this works for me.  MBMC


8
Main Message Board / Re: Advice Requested: Battery Monitors
« on: June 11, 2019, 10:40:10 AM »
Ahh!  All clear now Mark. The voltmeter at the nav station is even more useless than the one in the cockpit. Great idea to use up that space.  :thumb:  My VM at he nav station in a linear gauge (vs a dial gauge) with a toggle beneath to select Bat 1 or 2.  I never use it and would love to find a better use for that real estate.

9
Main Message Board / Re: Advice Requested: Battery Monitors
« on: June 11, 2019, 05:28:46 AM »
Mark,
Iíve had my Victron for several years and Iím pleased with it. To zero out your meter, press the + & - buttons together for a couple of seconds. This manually synchronizes the unit. Itís best to do it when the batteries are at or very near 100% SOC and there is no current flowing into our out of the batteries.
Interesting choice to mount your display at the cockpit instrument panel. It all depends on how you plan to use your boat. I certainly agree that the OEM voltmeter at the panel is of limited value. Eventually, I plan to replace it with an oil pressure gauge. I have my Victron display mounted at the nav station as that location allows me to monitor and record battery performance more easily while cruising remote areas for weeks at a time.  I certainly see the attraction of the simplicity of the Balmar monitors but I like to be able to see the amps flowing into the batteries through my solar and out through various electrical loads and I donít mind a bit of tinkering.  I like Jonís approach to having both monitors and manually reducing the house battery capacity in the Victron parameters each year to accommodate inevitable house battery degradation over time.
YBYC.  :thumb:

10
Main Message Board / Re: Teak Grate in Head
« on: June 05, 2019, 07:32:17 AM »
Ed,
Based on her description, Iím sure this is it.
This is a Canadian link but Iím certain it would be available on US Amazon also.
SeaTeak 60022 Teak Shower or Door Mat, Oiled Finish, Rectangular https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0042A7728/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_2d99CbSGKNDF5


11
Main Message Board / Re: Holding Tank Vent Question
« on: May 03, 2019, 07:06:42 PM »
What Roc said.   :thumb:
I got the same advice from a phone call I had with Peggie Hall several years ago.  Here's my project:
http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,6861.msg45889.html#msg45889
Roc's looks better since he has a shallower slope on his forward vent hose.




12
Main Message Board / Re: Slipping transmission?
« on: April 15, 2019, 05:48:30 AM »
BA,
Sorry to hear about your troubles.
Hereís a good article about folding and feathering props. There are likely others out there but I bookmarked this one.
https://www.yachtingmonthly.com/gear/folding-and-feathering-propeller-test-29807
I have a German made Vari-Prop which the PO installed. Iím quite pleased with it. Forward and reverse pitch are independently variable and it can be adjusted while in the water (although you need your wits about you to do it). Iíve adjusted mine to optimize forward pitch (ie can achieve max engine rpm) and reverse pitch in an attempt to minimize prop walk.
Vari-Prop is not as common as Max Prop or some others but here is a dealer and service centre nearby in Toronto that I fortunately havenít had to use yet.
Good luck with your repairs.


13
Main Message Board / Re: Motor soot
« on: April 03, 2019, 02:23:09 PM »
Celeste and Greg,
In addition to Ronís thoughts, although you said soot is all over the engine compartment, if the soot is primarily located near the front of the engine, itís possible that it is ďbelt dustĒ created by wear on the water pump /alternator belt if pulleys are even slightly misaligned (many are misaligned at the alternator). When you open the access door under the sink, is the water muffler covered in soot?  Are the hose and anything else you have stowed under the sink covered?  Soot smells in the area while youíre operating?

14
Main Message Board / Re: Plug size for holding tank macerator outlet
« on: March 27, 2019, 01:42:38 PM »
Scott at Ronco is absolutely correct.  One of the few inexpensive and commonly available boat parts! :D

15
Hi Noah,
I'm battling the same conditions to get to my through hull under the swim platform.  And I don't have the piece of mind knowing that I changed the bilge hose only 4 years ago.  As far as I know, the hose and through hull are OEM from the early 1990s.  Like you, I'm thinking through changing my bilge through hull fitting, possibly with a bronze or stainless substitute.  Did you use bilge pump hose when you replaced it a few years ago or did you use a more robust "below the waterline" hose?  It must have been a bear to get to the fitting!  I can see my bilge pump hose heading to the through hull but certainly the aft water tank will have to come out for me to access the hose and fitting and get the job done.  Any tips you or anyone else has would be most welcome.


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