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Hey Dan,

This thread may have a bit of info for you too....
http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,7711.0.html

I guess my Nova Kool is about 7 years old now, still working great even with the dreaded 17' pipes. :)

Good info Mainesail.

Not saying the emulator is best, merely wanted to share information that I have not found anywhere before.
I'm still very happy with my choice, as I recall the WEMA stuff is almost as expensive as the emulator? and I'll still take zero moving parts over one moving part.

Although I really couldn't care about the exact deviation in a practical sense, curiosity got me and I actually created a spreadsheet that would do the math for me based on the shape of the tank.  Back then with useless senders I was dipping my tank at the end of the season, and re-checking after I added fuel.  If I recall, my math was pretty good.  But that of course does not take into account any inherent errors of a functioning sender; your method would be much better for that.

Again, I'll try to get some more info if I can get the tank down near empty.

Also, please, if anyone has any negative experiences, please pipe up, a review of one may not be all the useful.

Steve

Yeah, they can be had for less money for sure.  But after 2 failures in as many years, and even though Teleflex eventually provided replacements, I had enough.  This no-moving-parts emulator is truly what I was looking for.

Glad you got it working Noah.

Steve

[without]

Reporting back....
Wow, I drafted this two years ago and apparently neglected to post.  Sorry guys, added a few points, and here it is....

Short Answer..... Fabulous!

First, Dan I love your repair, always a good feeling, congrats.  Mine just keep failing and really didn't work from the start.  When I tested brand new units at the store, resistance went from 80 to infinity at about the 2/3 mark.  I tested every one there and they all did the same thing.  I think Teleflex is just crap.

This is the one I bought....
http://usmarineproducts.com/osc/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=18&products_id=298
Part number looks to be.... F-D-110I-XX-2R-S-P4-012I-00000

Before installation I did run a few tests on the unit, but without getting into it too much, it was challenging and didn't provide any useful information.

The connector they had attached is pretty unique so I just cut and crimped on my own spades.  I just made sure to use plastic-protected spade connectors for the blue wire from the boat (hot); less important for the ground wire.

Although Rob at US Marine Products sent along a focus tube, normally $25, I decided to try it without first so I could let you guys know if it is required or not.....
Two years later - I have had no problems at all going without the focus tube.

Installed it on the boat and once power was applied it jumped to empty and less than a second later provided me what I think was a pretty accurate level.  Added 15 litres and it went up appropriately.

Took it sailing and........

So far I'm tickled, but time will tell.
Two seasons now and still awesome.  If anything changes I'll add to this thread, if you don't see anything, I'm still smiling! :)
I'll make an effort to get my tank near empty this season and let you know if how that works out.

I was never looking for a gauge that was spot on, who cares, I just want a ballpark without having to refer to my notes anytime I'm curious.

As an aside, contrary to popular belief, there are units that can account for unusually shaped tanks, some you program yourself, others like this unit, the company can do for you (once you provide dimensions), but these guys needed a run of 100 units to do that.
Honestly though, even talking about that difference in readings is a waste of time in my opinion; just know the bottom is smaller, no big deal.

Nice to have a gauge that works.

Steve

:) And please, of course I mean this in the kindest of ways, before you hit reply and retell that old one about ½ a gallon every hour, we all know that, this is for people that just don't like having crap that doesn't work. :)

When I did mine it did not come with the water return pipe installed.  I had to order it separately.  That was however, many moons ago.

Steve

Thanks Dave, I'll grab a few of those before heading down.

Really appreciate the insight, thanks again.

Steve

Ken, thanks much for those, interesting stuff.

Dave, thank you too.  I'll likely zoom by my local guys and pick some up.  I think the 16mm is the critical number.  I'm assuming you've used those and they fit well.

Thanks again guys.

Steve

Thanks guys,

Surprised no one's got one lying around to measure.  Guess I'll have to order them rather than just getting 'em at my local car parts place.

Ken, not sure which manuals you have, but if it's not too much trouble I'd certainly appreciate them.

If email would work, please send them to stevew10@hotmail.ca

Thanks,

Steve

Hi all,

I have been searching for well over an hour now, including what seems like every forum entry, the 101's, "Replacement Filters, Belts, and Lubricants", FAQs, including "ENGINE FILTER / FANBELT / AIR INTAKE EQUIVALENTS" with zero luck.

Anybody have some dimensions for the engine and transmission Crush Washers?  Inside and outside diameters, thickness?  What I read says they should be aluminum; is copper okay?  Any help would be greatly appreciated.

My crankcase drain plug is leaking, and I really should do the transmission oil.  Just trying to save multiple trips to the boat.

Thanks in advance.

Steve

PS: Not been active on the board in forever, sorry, been busy with fun car stuff and my Catalina has been great not requiring anything significant for some time.

[winter]

Hey Joe.

The installation went quite well with a shipment of wire from genuinedealz (my favourite - their new ordering tool is pretty slick with little images of the custom wire you are ordering).

Unfortunately this past June, July, Aug, and Sept were some of the mildest winter months we've seen here since I've owned the boat and I did very little sailing this year, in fact, only one night on the hook! (fortunately I had other distractions less dependent on nice weather, so I wasn't too heart-broken).

Initial impressions are as expected, really good!

• Extensive pre-planning always makes for an easier install.
  Fitment of the alternator went pretty well and I grabbed a few different belts to get the best fit (will post later).
  It runs a bit warmer than I expected, especially considering I de-rated it to 80% (still within the normal range - will post #s later).
  I changed out the pulley to the larger one to accommodate the 3/8" belt.  Kind of a PIA to get the torque setting correct though.  I thought I was clever using my clicking torque wrench in reverse on the hex internal pattern in the shaft itself and securing the nut with another wrench.... until I realized it wasn't actually working in reverse, so I went to my older style torque wrench.
  Tachometer is way off right now, and I suspect I may have to go back to the original pulley, but need to read more about that as the 3/8" belt may slip with it.  I actually think the better option is to recalibrate the tach; I think that has been written up a few times on this forum.
  Stuffing the batteries into that battery-well looked like it wasn't going to work, but I came up with a way and will also post that later.
  The Smartgauge?  Terrific!  Simple device (on the outside anyway) that gives you the information you need.
  MC-614? Very slick.
  ProIsoCharger? Added a tiny bit of complexity to the install, but I'm still very happy with it.  Admittedly, now that I've got more experience, I'd suggest a combiner / Echo Charge instead (as many have already suggested).

I'll try to get some more details and images of the install up in the next month or so.  Sorry I haven't gotten to this sooner.  If you're in a big hurry, please PM me and I'll try to give you some piece-meal stuff.

Steve

Hey Roger, I think everything you've done will work just fine.

Q1. Just looks like cotton or such, I suspect you are bang-on that perhaps the PO had some issues with insects getting in there(or s/he thought they might).  I'm with Dave, leave it out; easy enough to add something in there later if you develop a problem.

Q2. I'd say you're fine like that.  When I did a pretty big deck repair years ago I took the time to straighten all those plates but made sure that they still fit flat on the deck (test fit without butyle first); if you over-do it and they wobble you're totally asking for trouble, but if they are solidly flat I'd say that is best.  The added benefit, for me anyway, was when I flattened them out the geometry went back to the way the factory assembled them, all at the same angle from the deck.... I know it's only aesthetic, but made me happy :).

A PO of my boat moved the vent to the hull as many others have done.... love it.

When I did mine I was sure to "sleeve" (as I call it) every hole and of course the vent extension out the bottom of the stanchion was cut off and big hole in the deck filled with epoxy.  Backing plates can help strengthen the area as well.

Absolutely drives me crazy to see people fending off with stanchions, especially seasoned sailors!  Zero concept of physics.

All the best
Steve

Paul, glad you got things sorted out.

I'm with Dan, any information you are willing to provide with respect to detailed symptoms and the parts that needed to be replaced would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Steve

Noah,  personally I think reactivating an old thread and expanding on the exact same topic is the way to go.  It makes searching later (for other skippers with the same issue) that much easier; good one:).

If I recall I had to take off very little material to fit the new drains so I wouldn't worry about that too much; I understand your concern though.

My flow increased a little bit when upgrading just the hose, no thru-hull, but with my new set-up the biggest gain I had was making room for my microwave.  I think it's prudent to always add room when able, even if you're not going to use it right away.

Another benny was that the one sink didn't back up into the other anymore because when I plumbed mine I put the 90 deg connector further down.  Worked perfectly, got the flow happening right away and gave me even more space for the microwave; only takes about a foot more of hose.

Excuse the old 1/2" line there, it's all been redone...

Good luck whatever you decide.

Steve

Sounds like an excellent plan Bob, hope it is an uneventful trip.

Aside: when I pulled my factory rudder (1988, #625) a few years back it weighed almost exactly 100 pounds.  I suspect it doesn't displace quite that much water..... read.... it's a rock.  But I could be wrong; I should've tried it in some shallow water.

S

Is this what you are looking for....
http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm/product/2637_72/emergency-stainless-steel-tiller-headbrc-34-c-36--c-38.cfm
or
http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm/product/1010_72/emergency-tiller-headbrc-34-c-36--c-38.cfm

Steve