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Messages - Indian Falls

#1
I was just on Hatch Masters website.  No can find the lens listed in the parts section.
How did you order one?  I would like to see if I can re-do mine this year.  I love punishment.
#2
I put a Garmin Gwind 10 bluetooth sail package on mine.   Not all that happy with it.
Definitely don't use bluetooth for stuff on top of the mast.  I take my mast down every year but I can see not doing so being quite an issue.  Not to mention the 50' distance is on the edge of working 100% of the time.   
#3
Main Message Board / Re: Keel Bedding Survey
March 16, 2024, 05:46:02 PM
I did mine 13 years ago with 5200.  No leaks.  No smile.  I however, did not refair the joint all the way around to make it pretty.  I wanted to wait to see if I had success and to really let the stuff settle.  Then another 11 years went by.  I just put a little fresh VC-17 on it and make plans for next year.  My procedure is in the tech wiki.  The rust is from the iron "cast in lead" lifting points.  The smile in my own opinion was from not enough glue in there in the first place and too much backstay tension coupled with keel bolts that had never been checked for torque.

http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,6842.0.html
#4
We are thinking of moving and would like to go out on a sail on either Kentucky Lake or Lake Barkley.  We have been sailing Lake Ontario for the last 14 years and are looking for a lake that is somewhat comparable.  Preferably in the upper part of both lakes near Grand Rivers.  If anyone is interested, please reach out here on the forum.
#5
This may be too late since you posted in September... 
I did my entire sole front to back.   DO NOT USE "green" paint stripper that requires a water rinse!  I did that on the first section and it raised the holly higher than the teak... no fixing that.   Also sanding is a bad idea.  The veneer is less than the thickness of a credit card and you have no room for error.  The heat gun and scraper to remove old finish is the best but you cannot stop moving the scraper or the heat or you'll leave a mark from the tool or burn the wood.
I put over 7 coats of minwax urethane for floors, wet sanding between coats. It came out great.  Except for the learning curve with the heat gun and the paint remover.   DO NOT USE EPOXY to fill dents and flaws as suggested by alleged experts.  Epoxy turns quite dark in short order and is visible like spilled nail polish on the floor.  I also used old urethane I had on hand to seal the back side of the sole floor panels.  A previous owner spilled milk into the sole and there it stayed until I pulled up the plywood.  Best to seal it so this odor or that odor cannot proliferate..there's enough things in a boat making smells... don't need that too.  Best of luck!  Hope you update your post!
#6
Main Message Board / Re: Motor mounts
December 30, 2023, 07:32:35 AM
Just my 2 cents:  if I had to do it over again I would have used the harder ones all the way around.
#7
Main Message Board / Re: Alternator bracket
April 20, 2022, 11:18:21 AM
Ron Hill, could you elaborate on what differences there are between the stock bracket and what you mean about using a hi output alternator?
#8
Main Message Board / Re: Strut Pro Tool
April 14, 2022, 06:51:12 AM
If anyone has a seized or corroded into place, bearing, I would recommend a heat gun or propane torch before going to an impact gun and if you need to use an impact, use two of them to keep things even.  The collet is laser welded to the push plate and I'm surprised and elated it held up using an impact gun.
Do what you gotta do though, I made it I can fix it.

Rods and nuts are available at almost every hardware store and the long driver nuts (threaded rod connectors) are available at McMaster Carr if anything gets stripped or bent.

I'm really happy to see everyone using this tool with such great success!
#9
Main Message Board / Alternator bracket
April 14, 2022, 06:30:31 AM
I see Universal/Westerbeke alternator brackets are on ebay again.  Heavy Duty, 1/4" thick. 
www.ebay.com/itm/154943469772?hash=item241359b8cc:g:FY4AAOSwspZiVFLj
#10
I can make 5.5 kts going into a 10kt headwind at 2200 rpm with a 3 blade 15x10 prop. 
I feel that my boat would only make hull speed under power downwind at 3000 rpm.  I don't like running the engine like that.  My sailing buddy's boat can out run me by 1knt when motoring to wind and he has a 2 blade fixed prop.  We did 2, two week vacations in a row the past 2 summers and had to motor most of it.  I just put it at 2200-2300 rpm and suck it up that I'm just over 5kts.  Motoring with the sails up helps a lot unless of course the wind is directly on the nose.
#11
My two cents:  I got way  more water shooting out the exhaust than 1 splash every 5 seconds, more like 1 splash every 1.5 seconds.

The hot water heater does not have a pressure release, that is a temp release.  Mine is marked 210deg max. The most pressure the coolant loop in the heater sees is marked on your "radiator cap" 14 or 16 psi. 

ok three cents:  You don't have an air bubble issue.  Airlocks cause immediate overheat,  not 4 hours of running at 165 then creeping up.  You simply don't have enough flow of seawater thru the HX to keep up with the engine.
This same water is supposed to douse all the heat in the exhaust.  Your water muffler and hump hose are probably too hot to touch.  Your temp gauge may be off a few degrees as well, being you're heating the potable water in your water heater beyond the temp rating of the release.
#12
Main Message Board / Re: Bedding Sheets
March 21, 2021, 06:16:10 AM
If you want fitted sheets for the V berth, my wife has been modifying standard King sets for several people in our club.  She also does a lot of canvas work that the big guys aren't interested in such as zipper and window replacement, repairs new sail covers, cushion covers, curtains, etc.  We have done 1 dodger but that takes a lot of practice and it's a lot of work.  So she's not going down that road again even for our own boat. PM me and I'll put you in touch.
#13
For heat exchangers go to Lenco Coolers

www.lencocoolers.com
Phone: (631) 842-4049

The H/X part number was LE302631  and about 350.00.

The 299835CN pictured on their site looks right but is not....don' ask how I know.




#14
Main Message Board / Re: Vertical Keel Crack
January 24, 2021, 08:13:30 AM
I can only recommend separation of the keel from the keel stub.  Any of the other fixes like mashing sealant into a crack from the outside or trying to seal the keel bolts from the top don't work for long.

http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,6842.0.html   

It's been 9 years since I dropped my keel and it hasn't leaked or changed outward appearance in any way.
Also do not recommend complete removal. Leave the nuts at the top of the keel bolts and lift it up.  Trying to get all 9 of those back into holes on two very heavy items seems like a real challenge.  And there's no reason to do that for this repair.  Best of luck!
#15
Main Message Board / Re: Strut Pro Tool
December 23, 2020, 05:03:57 AM
It's pretty cool to see this making the rounds all this time.  I'm not renting the tool but I don't turn down a little beer $ lol!
I would like to get this back so I can check it out.  I also would like to include a better set of instructions with pictures.
It's available for anyone here to use.  I thank this forum all the time for the incredible source of knowledge, parts, bits and pieces I have acquired.  Thanks to all for your contributions.