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1

Main Message Board / Re: advice on upgrading mainsheet blocks

« on: Yesterday at 08:34:05 AM »

I recently changed my mast blocks for the halyards.  Bought them at the Annapolis Boat show.  When I talked to the people at the Selden booth, they said those blocks should be plain bearing blocks (not ball bearing).  Ball bearing blocks are for lines with continual movement.  Plain bearing blocks are for lines that are static for longer periods and carry high loads (like your halyards).  If you use a ball bearing block for high static loads, it will deform the bearings and the block won't run smooth.  I bought these and they work well.  Not that expensive.

http://www.seldenmast.com/en/products/blocks/plain_bearing_blocks.html

2

Main Message Board / Re: plastic stud for in-mast furling

« on: June 28, 2019, 04:09:04 AM »

Did you try going to HD or Lowes and look at the hardware section.  They have bins of all sorts of plastic and rubber items.  Maybe you can find a plastic washer or something you can use to rig something that would work.

3

Main Message Board / Re: cockpit table

« on: June 06, 2019, 09:28:50 AM »

Very Nice!!  Now you have to get that drink holder to have the same incredible finish!! 

4

Main Message Board / Re: Removing old decals on the hull

« on: May 22, 2019, 04:11:25 AM »

Start out by 'warming' the area with a hair dryer as KW suggests.  Then use a lot of patience and your finger nail..  pick and peel, pick and peel...  eventually you'll get it all off.

5

Main Message Board / Re: New Headsail recommendation

« on: May 15, 2019, 03:51:57 AM »

You may also want to consider the choice based on your rig, whether you have a standard or tall.  I have a tall rig with a 135 genoa.  That combination seems to work well on the Chesapeake.

6

Main Message Board / Re: Holding Tank Vent Question

« on: May 03, 2019, 01:46:11 PM »

Peggie Hall does not advise using vent filters because they actually stop the free flow of oxygen into the tank, which makes the anaerobic bacteria thrive (that's what causes tank smell, you want aerobic bacteria, which needs air flow).  I kept my original stanchion vent, but per her advice, added a larger vent.  I cut a hole into the tank access cover and routed the vent line forward, through the side storage area, into the locker in the v-berth port side and out the hull below the sheer stripe.  You have to remove the port side cabinetry by removing the screws on the outer frame.  The whole modular unit will come out, frame and all.  She advised to make the run more of a 45 angle rather than straight up, for better air flow.  She suggested keeping the original vent for better cross ventilation.  I put a dose of odorloss at the end of being on the boat for the weekend, or extended weekend.  No "boat" smell.

7

Main Message Board / Re: Filling the stanchion vent tube hole.

« on: May 01, 2019, 07:59:21 AM »

Roland,
Why get rid of the stanchion vent?  I did the same as you, installed a thru hull fitting near stripe.  When getting advice from Peggie Hall on the matter, she said to keep the original vent since more air going into the holding tank is a plus.  I kept it, now I have two vents.

8

Main Message Board / Re: Transmission replacement

« on: April 18, 2019, 10:02:03 AM »

Noah
How were they sure the strut installation was aligned perfectly, and not skewed?  Boat's on the hard and the hull is flexed.  Just curious.

9

Main Message Board / Re: Mantus on bow roller

« on: April 09, 2019, 10:36:44 AM »

I have a 35# Mantus on my bow roller and the spade is no problem.

10

Main Message Board / Re: need an expert of late sherwood raw water pump

« on: March 14, 2019, 03:57:08 AM »

I think you can have Depco rebuild the pump for you for that amount or even less than $150. 

11

Main Message Board / Re: Servicing heat exchanger

« on: March 04, 2019, 01:56:59 PM »

Randy,
The hose bends to port through a hole I drilled in the area on the picture where the red circle is shown (this is an old picture before this was done).  From there, you are in the area of the sink vanity.  The hose then runs up into the forward most section of the port lazarette.  I also had to drill a hole in that section.  Then the hose ends as high as possible at the top part of the lazarette, in the upper most/forward corner.  That is far above the water line.  The hose is well secured along the way, and at the open end, to make sure it won't move.

12

Main Message Board / Re: Battery system for distance cruising

« on: March 01, 2019, 01:13:50 PM »

No not talking about making a smaller box.  I took some drawers out to access the area around the fridge compartment.  I used insulated foam panels with low expansion foam to hold them in place.  Did the best I could with being able to access the inside areas.  People have drilled holes and shot foam inside the areas that aren't accessible, but I didn't do that.

13

Main Message Board / Re: Servicing heat exchanger

« on: March 01, 2019, 09:54:09 AM »

Randy
I routed the hose for the PSS seal so the end is above the water line.  I believe PYI suggests that now.  You can route it into the area under the head sink then to to the lazarette on the port side.  Secure the hose along the way and put the end as high as possible.

14

Main Message Board / Re: Battery system for distance cruising

« on: March 01, 2019, 09:48:27 AM »

Wow Paul, this trip sounds great!!  We cruise the Chesapeake and will be on battery power for 3 or 4 days at times.  Now that's probably not as long as you might find on your adventure, but what I found that helps is to first reduce the amount of power you need.  What I mean is change all your lights to LEDs, which use a fraction of the power.  Also, change out your anchor light to LED.  beefing up the insulation for your fridge is also a must do.

15

Main Message Board / Re: Ultrasonic Sensor

« on: February 20, 2019, 04:03:55 AM »

I haven't looked recently, but in the past when I checked out the prices, they were very expensive.