Menu

Show posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Show posts Menu

Messages - Ron Volk

#1
I don't know the exact time they added the hull ports, we have a 1.5 hull # 1235 built in 1992 and registered as a 1993 model and we have the 3 hull ports.
#2
Main Message Board / Re: Pureayre
April 21, 2017, 09:07:37 PM
Speaking of Pureayre, just received an email from them this evening regarding their 1st discount of the year.

Rico@ThePureAyreStore
#3
Jim,

Most refrigerators installed in our boats are 12V.  Like Stus, ours is a factory installed Adler Barbour.  To keep from working and draining the batteries while in port and having the charger constantly recharging, I and others have added an ac/dc unit to power it when in port while the boat is connected to shore power.  When away from the dock it's just a matter of then operating it off the house bank.  The system design has been written up and probably be found by typing 'ref ac/dc modification'
#4
Main Message Board / Re: Traveller Upgrade
April 09, 2016, 11:03:23 AM
Same with me, Guido helped me out as I wanted to run the lines back to the cabin top, added the rollers on the end fittings and supplied the roller fittings for the cabin top.


http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,6495.msg42378.html#msg42378
#5
Main Message Board / Re: Oil Pan Removal
August 28, 2015, 02:53:16 PM
Paul,

After removing the pan what did it look like after 25 years?
#6
Main Message Board / Re: FOOT MARKS ON HEAD SAIL
May 26, 2015, 08:05:59 PM
Steve,

Now I understand your dilemma, I sure can't figure out how I would use them either, other than running your leach up the luff and using the tack as the clew.  How about asking your sail maker to come out and show you how to use these marks and if there is a simple explanation please let us know.  
#7
Main Message Board / Re: FOOT MARKS ON HEAD SAIL
May 26, 2015, 06:36:01 PM
Steve,
Don't know if i'm understanding what you are saying. What mark do they have closest to the clew?
#8
Hi Tony,

Just looking at the website for your boat, seems like a nice boat for a decent price, have you had any offers yet.  I was interested in a picture you have of your cunningham/reef line.  Could you explain how that works, it seem that if you tighten up the cunningham it would pull down on the back of the sail also.  And when you use it as the reef point how do you get the cunningham hook to the reef cringle.  It looks like a good idea but I don't completely understand how it works.  Could you help me out.

Thanks,
#9
Main Message Board / Re: AC Refrigeration Question
July 15, 2014, 07:34:16 PM
Aldo.
My reason was to save the continuous topping off of the batteries while in port. We live a few hours from our boat and when we go, we spend 3-5 days there, usually every other week. While staying on the boat with the refrig. on using DC, every time the the refrig. recycled, our BC came on and topped the batteries off.  The BC has a fan in it & came on every time which was noisy and annoying during the night.  This led me to add a AC to DC pwr. sup. and a AC switch so when we get there we flip the switch on and use shore power to power the refrig.  When we go somewhere or out just for the day we use the DC switchto  power it.
#10
Main Message Board / Re: AC Refrigeration Question
July 15, 2014, 09:35:58 AM
Gary.

I used a Tyco 4-45f11 relay which I ordered on Ebay.  I you use this relay you need to add a strap between contacts 87 & 85 as it does not come strapped together.
Go to search box and type in 'Trouble Shooting 12v power supply for fridge' started by pablosgirl and read all the posts as this might help in installation.
#11
Main Message Board / Re: kelp removal
January 21, 2014, 11:02:04 AM
Gary, thanks for the reply.

It would probably have to be modified some especially running that sharp edge down the forward edge of the rudder, but it might work by running it down the side of the rudder and have it grab the kelp.  Also a good idea regarding cutting the pot lines as we deal with those also.
#12
Main Message Board / Re: kelp removal
January 21, 2014, 10:47:12 AM
Kevin, thanks for you reply.

It doesn't look like anybody has any good fixes for a rudder mounted under the boat, but 'Jerryj2me' kept the blog interesting by looking forward to his next blog.  Racing downwind, I guess you have to make a decision if your speed loss with the kelp on the rudder outweighs heading up, back winding your main to go backwards and clearing the kelp. Maybe I will just hope everybody else has kelp on their rudders also.
#13
Main Message Board / kelp removal
January 19, 2014, 09:41:55 PM
Does anybody have any secrets regarding removing kelp off the rudder while racing or just sailing.  I don't seem to have a problem of it catching and staying on the keel or prop but it sure hangs up on the rudder. Other than heading up and back winding the main,(which sure puts a damper on your direction and speed), does anybody have any suggestions?  It seem that the rudder sits underneath to far to get anything to clean it. It's not if, but when, no matter how careful you are in our area you'll get kelped.
#14
Main Message Board / Re: Whisker Pole Question?
October 22, 2013, 05:33:26 PM
GWP,
At the dock, I attach my SH forward on the bow pulpit on the starboard support so it's not hitting on the mast.  With this set up I found out when sailing I could furl the jib on a stbd. tack, but the SH would foul if trying to furl on a port tack. So when sailing, I bring the SH back and attach it at the base of the mast, this way I can furl from either tack.
I do have a topping lift on my whisker pole which goes through a block below the steaming light, but I keep my WP mounted on the forward portion of the mast and use the TL to pull the WP up to the chocks.  I have never needed a TL when using the WP, but at times I will use the lazy sheet run through a snatch block mounted forward on the deck to have a downhaul to keep the pole from bouncing around
#15
Kevin,

Another option, which might be extreme, is adding stainless guards for the dorades.  Check my post from June of 2011, (search: 'dorade and traveler upgrade' and then hit 'upgrade' to see my post with pictures.  This was a post thanking you for your post talking about using Rustoleum plastic spray paint to restore the dorades.