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Messages - billandalita

#1
Main Message Board / Re: Galley Floor material?
December 11, 2021, 08:20:57 AM
Folks, I appreciate all the comments and information.  Amazing how much knowledge is out there.  Tomorrow I will remove the flooring and go from there.  Will let you know what I find.  Thanks, Bill
#2
Main Message Board / Galley Floor material?
December 10, 2021, 11:48:35 AM
Can anyone tell me the type of flooring material in the galley area of a MKII?  I think it is a (grey) vinyl material.  Mine was water damaged (flooded) and the edges adjoining the wooden sole have lifted up a bit. Can they be glued down?  Or is it easy enough to buy new vinyl material and install it? Thanks, Bill Small
#3
Thank for edifying me on the differences between the old ST4000 and the newer Raymarine autopilot models.  The current (ST-4000) autopilot does not work at all, and is also very hard to see.  So, perhaps it will be a question of the next best steps forward to get a working autopilot.  Any suggestions will be appreciated.
#4
Main Message Board / Autopilot controller ST-4000
May 24, 2021, 07:29:51 AM
My ST-4000 autopilot Controller stopped working and is also discolored and difficult to see through the lens.  Can someone tell me if I can replace it with a newer Controller?  How about a  Raymarine  P70S Autopilot controller?  If so, is the installation fairly easy, perhaps a wire by wire correspondence to the controller?
Thank You;

Bill Small
Catalina 34 Mark II, 2002
#5
Main Message Board / Re: Corrosion on cross wire idler?
February 04, 2016, 05:14:50 PM
We are in salt water, lower Chesapeake Bay.
Bill
#6
Main Message Board / Corrosion on cross wire idler?
February 04, 2016, 03:06:26 PM
This past summer an email from Catalina Direct warned of possible corrosion to the Cross Wire Idler support plate.  This plate serves as a backing plate for the Edison Pedestal and is also the attach point for steering cable idlers.  The Catalina Direct email warns that this is a mild steel plate and subject to corrosion from aluminum through-bolts.  The email suggests buying an upgrade thicker aluminum plate to eliminate corrosion problems.  The other day I inspected the plate on my boat, (2002 Catalina 34 Mark II) and everything looks pristine.  I wonder if anyone has found corrosion or other problems here?   Has this issue been previously discussed in this Forum?
Bill
#7
Well, thanks for all the comments and suggestions.  I will go with the easiest solution at first, and use contact cement.  If after some time that doesn't work, then I will go for the nuclear option and use epoxy.  Many thanks for the help.  Bill
#8
A good idea.  Will probably get to a Lowes in a day or two.  Bill
#9
Main Message Board / Delamination of interior doors
July 30, 2015, 07:17:32 AM
The engine access door that also is the first companionway step into the cabin is made of plywood faced with a white coated plastic laminate.  In fact, much of the cabinetry in my 2002 Catalina 34 MII is made of this material.  This white plastic laminate has started to separate from the plywood in a few spots.  Also the access door (to thru-hulls) in the head, the same thing.  I intend to glue the laminate back to the plywood, but not sure of the proper type of glue to use.  It suspiciously looks like Catalina used contact cement.  Don't think that is such a good idea for areas that get wet occasionally.  Anyone have a good suggestion on the type of glue to use?  Thanks,  Bill
#10
Main Message Board / Re: Water Filters
November 29, 2013, 06:26:02 PM
Thanks for the advice on water heaters and thoughts on the issue.  It is very interesting that the consensus seems to be that the heater will last only 10 to 15 years.  So discouraging too, since it is quite a job reinstalling one.  Runnning the hot water faucets more often seems like a great idea.  I will do that.

The Kumma heater I installed this past Spring has a magnesium anode rod.  I installed this anode since I noticed a white material almost blocking the inlet and outlet ports on my old unit. So in the interest of trying to help the heater life a bit I have scanned some of the literature and here are two interesting references on the internet:

http://www.diva-portal.org/smash/get/diva2:436113/FULLTEXT01.pdf http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f115/aluminum-water-tank-corrosion-42678.html

It appears from these references that the most corrosive elements for aluminum in tap water are chloride and sulphate ions and that charcoal filters are able to remove the chlorine.  Of course I would like to keep the chlorine in the main water tanks so as to keep down bacterial growth, but eliminate chlorine from the aluminum heater tank. It seems to me then that the best place to locate a filter might be before the water pump under the sink if there is room.  The filter will probably keep out other crud too.   Just some thoughts.   Bill



#11
Main Message Board / Water Filters
November 28, 2013, 08:47:12 AM
I need advice on how best to remove chlorine from tap water onboard my boat.  I have heard and read that chlorine in the tap water will corrode aluminum water tanks such as my hot water heater.  Apparently a good charcoal filter will remove most of the chlorine.  My previous hot water tank, a Seaward, did corrode through.  My current water heater tank, a Kuuma, is also aluminum.  Should I filter the water at the shore side hose before it enters the main polyethylene water tanks, or before the water pump, or before the aluminum hot water tank?  Does anyone know which filters do a good job of removing chlorine, and have acceptable flow rates?

Thanks
Bill
#12
Quote from: Stu Jackson on August 06, 2013, 06:55:35 PM
Bill, did that leak exhibit itself as an apparent water pump pressure issue?

Stu, The water pump was definitely not coming on regularly due to low pressure, except once when I had an obvious hose connection problem.  The leak must have been so slow that any pressure loss was undetectable over any reasonable length of time.  Bill
#13
I think the orientation of the tank in the photo may be a bit confusing.  The photo of the tank is an end view with the base on the right of the photo and the top of the tank is on the left.  Thus the partially blocked opening at the bottom of the photo is the hot water outlet.  The cold water inlet is at the top of the picture and to the right of the pressure relief valve.
Perhaps of interest are two more photos of the tank.  The first one shows the bottom of the tank shortly after it was removed and the fiberglass insulation partially removed.  Note the corrosion evident on the base of the tank, evidently caused by rust from the steel container box where it contacted moisture.  This was the only source of corrosion I could find at the time.  I subsequently applied city water pressure to the hot water side of the tank and then to the engine coolant tubes.  There was no leak from these tests.  I then filled the tank with water and stood it on its coolant end side for two months.  For this entire period as mentioned previously, a very small amount of water collected in an oil pan dish in which the tank set.  The second photo shows the tank turned upside down after the leak test of two months, with a small "pinhole" corroded spot on the left and a water mark running down to the bottom of the tank during the test.  Hope this was interesting:  Bill
#14
Thanks to all the folks that came up with suggestions for my leaking hot water tank.  I did purchase a new Kuma tank from West Marine, which is close in size and attachments to the Seaward water heater that came with the boat.  I installed an Aqua Pro magnesium anode into the tank's drain port and installed a T-line into the inlet port with a valve to drain the tank when needed.  The magnesium anode is 9.5 inches in length, and obviously cannot be replaced until the hot water tank is removed from its location.  My plan is to change the anode any time the batteries are removed and the water tank can then be fairly easily accessed.  Hopefully the anode will last a few years.  I have been checking the old Seaward water tank in my garage ever since.  Even under city water pressure there was no obvious leak on the fresh water or the engine coolant side.  However there was a constant very slow seepage from the underside of the tank which perhaps left about a teaspoon of water each day in a catch bucket.  There is a very small but noticeable corroded spot on the bottom of the tank which is the apparent source of the leak.  That slow leak stopped this week; perhaps because it corroded itself shut.  Currently I think this very slow but constant leak was the culprit that caused delaminating of the wood shelf holding the tank and batteries.   
#15
Oops.  I guess I didn't attach this picture of the shelf that holds the hot water tank and batteries.  So here it is hopefully.
Bill