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Messages - Miles Henderson

#1
I have a custom made symmetrical spinnaker for a tall mast Catalina 34.  It has had light use.  Price is $650.  I seldom visit this website, so if you want to contact me, please email me at milesh.cfa@gmail.com.

Thanks Miles Henderson
#2
Main Message Board / Re: bio fuel
January 06, 2018, 12:41:25 PM
Five years ago, I stored my boat indoors in Manitowoc, WI.  The owner of this storage facility was also producing bio diesel as a side business.  I got to know him fairly well and he shared with me his experiences in producing the fuel.  He made this fuel from remnant animal fat that he would get from local slaughter houses.  His experience was that it was extremely difficult to get the blend of required catalysts exactly right so the resulting end product would keep all its components in permanent suspension :shock:

He informed me that many of the producers of biodiesel were small local operations like his, yet he had access to distribute his finished product to large national chains.  That's why you will see distinctive warning signs on retail pumps providing biodiesel.  Putting this product in a sailboats fuel tank can stay there for several years.  If there is any question what you have in your tank, I would drain it all and replace it with non-bio diesel asap.

Good luck  :thumb:
#3
Hello Fellow Boat Owners:

I own a 1992 34 foot Catalina MK 1.5.  The cooler compressor gave up late last fall :cry4`.  A new upgraded system is priced through Catalina Direct $1,470 before shipping :shock:.  My marine HVAC service technician assures me this is a good price on an up-to-date system.  However, it is still a lot of money. 

So, I decided to go out on limb and install a much cheaper ($139 after shipping) thermoelectric air conditioner from Custom Thermoelectronic (Model # ATA-035-12).  It draws significantly lower amperage that the current system and it is very easy to install: cut a square hole in the ice box, insert the cooling portion of the assembly into the icebox, hook up the power from the thermostat already in the icebox, disconnect the electric panel to the old system and reconnect to the new. 

A thermoelectric cooler (also known as a Peltier Cooler) is similar to a heat pump; but, transfers heat from the air by taking heat from the cool side of the convertor and dispersing the heat on the warm side of the convertor.  Both sides of this assembly have a small fan to circulate the cooler air and disperse the warm air outside the cooler.  Except for the fans, the assembly has no moving parts.  I tried to spec-out what my needed cooling power will be; but, it was only a rough guess on my part.  When it gets warmer in the boat (it's in Chicago), the heat leaking into the cooler via its insulated shell will get more intense, so I will not really know how well this installation will work until it is tested by the elements. 

I didn't see anyone else making a Forum comment on a similar project, so it looks like I may be the first guinea pig.  Wish me luck and I will report back to you when it gets hot here.
#4
Main Message Board / Re: Need Input on Barrier Coat
April 22, 2016, 06:41:59 PM
Everyone I have spoken with regarding this matter recommends several coats of Interprotect 2000E.  I put on seven coats.  If you plan on keeping the boat it will be worth it.  My boat was covered by VC Tar, then covered by VC 17.  The VC Tar got old (12 years) and then became brittle and started to peel.  Had it soda blasted to the gel coat.  I am quite certain one to two coats of 2000E will not provide the seal you want.  The paint is good; but, not that good.  Read the manufacturer's recommendations.  I put on two coats and could then observe the natural peaks and valleys in the surface.  I did a light sand with a cross-board to highlight the high spots, then outlined the low spots with a black magic marker and then filled in low spots with 3 to four coats of 2000E.  By the way, after several coats of 2000E, it will start to "orange peel".  That is the surface of the paint will start to become rough and resemble the skin of an orange.  If you want to get rid of this rougher surface (the get a racing finish), you can have one person put on the paint with a roller and then immediately have the other person follow up with a plastic resin spreader (it will take the excess paint and spread it among the valleys of the orange peel).  Good luck. Mine has been on seven years and it's like brand new.  Good luck. :thumb:
#5
Main Message Board / Re: Rudder Play
December 04, 2015, 07:29:41 PM
Guys, I just saw your post in re: "Rudder Play".  Sorry I didn't see this earlier.  You may want to look at my posts from 12/29/09 thru 12/31/09 with the header "Missing Rudder Post Tube".  It looks like the two C34's you are discussing (# 1257 and # 1261) are both MK 1.5's which is what I own (a 1992 C34, hull # 1204).  If you have the same configuration, you may also be missing a rudder post tube which should be attached to the underside of your helm flooring. 

The problem with my boat was that without this tube attached to the underside of the helm flooring with several layers of promat, there was little horizontal support for the top of the rudder post.  If you want to do a quick check, remove the rudder post cover just behind the pedestal steering.  Then wet your finger and draw a circle around the rudder post inside the bottom of the compartment.  If your finger comes out with pulverized fiberglass dust  :shock:, then you have the problem I had.  What happened to me is the top of rudder post was slowly eating away at the "top bearing housing" (what holds the rudder post up in the air and what you just wiped your finger around).  If you have the same problem (no Rudder Post Tube), then Catalina should be notified and they should put out a notice to all MK 1.5 owners that they may have this same problem.

As noted in my 2009 post, I installed the Rudder Post Tube with several layers of promat to the underside of the helm flooring and it has subsequently held up in big weather without a problem.

If you find out this is the problem, I can give you a few helpful hints (fine points) I addressed when installing the rudder tube.  Just give me a call at 440-554-1445.  Good Luck, Miles H, Kumatage 1204
#6
Main Message Board / Re: Bottom Paint
March 23, 2011, 06:02:10 PM
I did a major over-haul on my entire bottom last Spring  :cry4` :clap

I found that there were, simply stated, depressions in the hull that needed to be 'filled-in'.  What I did was sand the high areas so I could really see the low areas that needed to be filled-in.  Then, I circled the low area (which was often oblong or of abnormal shape) with a black magic marker.  Then, I would fill in the low depression with two to three coats of paint.  If found using a plastic resin spreader was a good way to smooth the paint after it was applied to these depressions and feather the paint to the higher edges (kinda like what you would do when applying dry wall mud).  Hope this helps.
#7
Main Message Board / Re: blisters
January 29, 2011, 06:24:15 PM
Three years ago I sanded the bottom and found two large sections (a four foot section top to bottom) with pimple sized blisters (some we quite small).  I drilled each one out (went into the hull a 16th of an inch) cleaned out all the pits and put a new coat of thickened resin over the entire section, then sanded smooth and the put a thick coat (7 applications) of Interprotect 2000E on the bottom.  It has held up with no sign of problems when pulled this fall for winter storage.
#8
Lake Michigan / Re: Queen Cup
January 29, 2011, 06:05:43 PM
Hi Ed,

Last summer the wind was blowing straight out of the south when the race started at 15-17 knots.  We got a good start and went south of the lay line.  Once we were about a mile south of the lay line we headed straight for Grand Haven (this year the race goes to Muskegon as you probably know).  The wind held steady until 10 pm when it started to shift gradually to the southwest.  We put up the asymmetric and started to make time on the competition.  The wind started to pick up steam when it was coming from the SW.  It was blowing about 22-24 from midnight to 2am (we were flying the asym the whole time).  We had a fairly experience crew which was necessary to handle the boat and sails.  Then the wind picked up the around 2 am to about 26 knots and we continued to fly the asym we hit 10.5 knots going down a wave (per our gps) and were going a steady 9.5 knots.  The boat was under a significant amount of pressure be held up very well and we were able to keep the helm balanced. 

Then about 3am (eastern time) the wind continued to pick up and we had to take the asym down (which was an interesting challenge in itself).  The wind picked up the 30 knots and the seas built.  We finished at 4 am (eastern time) which was 9 hours after the start.  We finished second in our division and 7th in the fleet.  It was a heavy boat night (the heavy boats ruled).  A 41 foot Choy Lee ketch won our division and finished 3rd in the fleet.  The slowest division had the 1st and 2nd place winners in the fleet.  Nice to see the 'slow' boats can win the Queen's Cup in the right conditions.  I had one of the guys from the yacht club complain that the 72 foot sleds didn't have a chance in the heavy wind.  I said "Cry me a river, you guys normally rule 95% of the time in the lighter air".

Anyway, it was a good time.  The year before in very light wind we also finished second in our division (the race took about 20 hours, if I recall).  We also hope to do The Hook this year.  The Hook goes from Racine around the Door County peninsula to Menominee/Marinnet MI on Green Bay
#9
Main Message Board / Re: Lazarette storage MK 1.5
August 24, 2010, 03:56:53 PM
Not sure I know what you mean.  I have a 1992 walk-thru.  The only hatch on the starboard side is a very small access hatch to the rudder post and other miscellaneous components (like the refrig compressor).

#10
Lake Michigan / Re: Queen Cup
April 19, 2010, 06:17:19 PM
This year the Queen's Cup goes from South Shore Yacht Club in Milwaukee to Grand Haven, Michigan about 60 miles due east across Lake Michigan).  The race starts at 6:00 pm on Friday, June 25th.  Many boats arrive at SSYC on Thursday and there is a party that evening.  Also there is a Saturday evening party/reception in Grand Haven.

See SSYC's website for more info:
http://www.ssyc.org/index.php/queens-cup

Generally you can expect 200 boats sailing across Lake Michigan at night with a full moon.  There were eleven PHRF divisions, and our C34 fin keel, tall mast was in division nine.

Hope you can make it Bob.  If you make plans to participate, let me know an I will look you up in Milwaukee.  My email is miles@mainstim.com.

Miles H



#11
Lake Michigan / Queen Cup
April 01, 2010, 05:55:01 PM
I encourage any C34 owners to participate in the Queen's Cup this year.

Last year we enterred for the first time, we were in a division with 18 other boats and finished 2nd in our division.

The Queen's Cup is normally considered to be a "Reach-fest", which is particularly helpful to a heavy boat like ours with a very large asymmetric. 

Get out there and have fun!

Miles H
Kumatage 1204
#12
Hi Mert,

I have an extra U-bolt here at home.  Not sure why I had an extra??  I pretty much took the approach that you can't be too big to carry the amount of pressure a spinnacker will put on the U-bolt when the pole is forward in decent wind (we're talking broach here).  I got a U-bolt with bolts 2 inches apart on center.  The diameter of each bolt is 1/2 inch (or a sixteenth less than that).  The length of bolt has 3.5 inches of thread.  I don't recall if I used all 3.5 inches or if I ended-up shortening each bolt by cutting it with a grinder.

The U-bolt came with a backing plate (it covers both bolts).  Above the thread, each bolt has a small ring (about the size of a small washer) which was forged into the U-bolt which I used to backstop a washer on top of the rail.

I don't recall if I had to angle the drill hole in order to come out in the proper place below.  I do remember that I used a drill bit guide (normally used for drilling dowel holes) and that I started with a large size bit.  That was a mistake.  The large bit cut into the fiberglass rail and started throwing chunks of figerglass here and there.  I immediately stopped and started the hole with smaller bits and worked my way up to the 1/2 inch bit I ultimately needed.  I do remember it was unnerving trying to get both drilled holes perfectly parallel even with the help of the drill bit guide.

I would start with a small, but long, bit and angle the drill bit as you deem appropriate and then see where it comes out on the inside.  You will need a good rachet set with a long socket to fit around the bolt as you tighten the nut.   

Good luck,
Miles H
#13
Main Message Board / Re: racing 101
March 13, 2010, 12:12:50 PM
The best way to add vertical degrees to your learning curve is to race on an experienced racer's boat for a season.  Try to find someone at your club that has room for an extra crew member that will be racing jib and main.  Try to find a bigger boat about the size of the C34. 

I have raced small boats all my life; but, racing a big 34 foot fixed keeled boat is quite a bit different.  Yes, the rules are the same; however, there is much more you need to know to get proper sail trim, helm balance, etc.  There is nothing better than having two or three experienced racers on-board to learn from.  After buying my C34 three seasons ago, I re-rigged it to handle a symmetrical spinnacker so I could participate in Wednesday night beer can races (we only had a couple boats participating in jib and main).  Last summer, I found a very experieced crew to participate in the Queen's Cup (an annual race across Lake Michigan), a sixty mile night-time race.  There were 200 hundred boats enterred in the race with 12 divisions (12 classes paired with similar PHRF-rated boats).  We finished second in our division because of our knowledgeable crew.  I learned ALOT along the way.

Get out there and have fun!

Miles H
Kumatage 1204


#14
Guy blocks should be placed at the widest part of the boat.  The working guy is the line which goes through the block, then through the end of the pole and attaching to the leading clew of the spinnacker.  The working guy carries a HUGE load under at 15 knots (you don't fly it at 20 knots as it is too easy to broche).  The guy blocks are placed amid ship, because if they are placed too far aft, the working guy will bend the stanchions when the pole is forward.

I would urge any C34 owner interested in converting their rigging to accomodate a symmetrical spinnacker to first crew on a racing boat flying a symmetrical spinncker to see what your getting yourself into.  It takes a six person crew to safely jibe the spinnacker while racing.  :shock:

It's worth it!  I converted my boat to fly a symmetrical spinnacker three years ago so I could participate in our local club's beer can races.  It's a good time.  Get out there and have fun!

Miles H
Kumatage #1204
#15
Main Message Board / Re: Missing Rudder Post Tube
December 31, 2009, 08:14:38 AM
Ron,

I apologize to everyone about the confusion.  There are two tubes.  One tube (about 18 inches long) is attached to the hull and enables the stainless steel rudder post to pass through it and go into the water.  The other tube (3 to 4 inches) is supposed to be at the top of the rudder post and is attached to the bottom of the rudder bearing housing.  The rudder bearing cap sits on top of the rudder bearing housing.  It is the upper tube that is missing on my boat.  The schematic shows the upper tube with an arrow pointing at it (immediately underneath the rudder post cap) and it is supposed to be fiberglassed onto the rudder bearing housing with three layers of promat.

There was NO upper rudder post on my boat.  The guys at Catalina know that newer boats (newer than mine) had this upper tube designed into the boat per the schematic.  They were not able to find a schematic for older boats like mine so they did not explicitly comment on whether this was mistakenly left off my boat or if it was designed that way.  All I can tell you is WITHOUT THE UPPER TUBE, the extreme pressure placed on the bearing housing (at the top of the rudder post) by the stainless steel rudder post started to erode the bearing housing and then allowed the top of the rudder post to rock back-and-forth. 

The bearing housing which the rudder post cap and washer sit upon is very thin (maybe 3/16" thick).  On my boat (a walk through transom) the top of the bearing housing is located below the deck and is accessible by removing a small circular cover on deck immediately behind the pedastal steering.  I personally observed a white powder substance on top of the bearing housing when I remove the circular cover.  When I lowered the rudder, I determined that the white powder substance was caused by the washer (under the rudder post cap) which was literally eating away the top of the bearing housing via friction each time the helm turned the rudder (as the bearing housing was now about 1/16" or 3/64" thinner than the bearing housing immediately adjacent to where the washer was located).  In addition, when the boat rocks from side-to-side by wave action it obviously puts pressure on both the upper and lower tubes which should be holding the rudder post in place and this repeated pressure had widened the opening in the rudder bearing housing at the top of the rudder post and was allowing the top of the rudder post to rock back-and-forth by 3/16" each time the boat took a wave.  If the upper rudder tube had been installed as indicated in the schematic, the rudder bearing housing would not have widened and the top of the rudder post would not move.

Hope this helps. Miles H