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Topics - Roger Blake

#1
Main Message Board / PYI Dripless
October 09, 2012, 07:09:59 PM
Gonna keep a long story short. Had a problem with the water line to my PYI dripless which caused water egress into the boat. When I contacted PYI, they sent, free, replacement parts. When I emailed and said I would be at the Annapolis Sailboat Show, they hooked me up with their folks onsite at the show to get the parts earlier...free...now that is service...and me boat is now ready to go back out.
#2
Main Message Board / Annapolis Sailboat Show
September 25, 2011, 04:40:34 PM
The show is coming up...Oct 6th - 10th. I have always wanted to sail in to the show and spend a couple of days soaking in the ambience. In the past, I've just driven up...but sailing up has a big appeal. Any suggestions on where to anchor? I can probably only get there the day before it starts...know it will be crowded. Do I need to consider going up earlier and hang out to be nearer the activities?
#3
Main Message Board / Main Webpage Pictures
November 05, 2009, 07:37:17 PM
Really like rotating the picture on the main webpage. Good job guys! :clap
#4
Main Message Board / Plugged In or Not
August 25, 2009, 04:37:36 PM
Reading the "battery chargers -- ProMariner Safety & FIRE Issue" post series brought me back to the issue whether you leave your boat plugged in or disconnected to shore power. When I bought my boat, it was always plugged in...and being a newbie, I kept it that way. After reading the many posts on this site, I decided to disconnect when I left the boat...and did that for a couple of years. I never have anything left on, other than the bilge pump (on auto), when I leave. After Spring commisioning one year, I found my bilge pump finally failed...well, the float failed. I replaced it with an identical part. Feeling please with myself, I went home for the week. Next weekend, came back and found the batteries dead...the bilge pump had been emptying the bilge until the switch cut off, then the water just came back down the hose, pump activated, stopped, water came back down, etc. Bilge pump was just cycling. I installed a one way valve (check valve), problem solved...I do check the valve every time I to the boat to make sure it is not clogged. Since then, I decided to leave the boat plugged in and the charger on...don't want a boat on the bottom. Also, was never satisfied the level of battery charge I had when I went on overnight trips if I hadn't left the boat plugged in. In the past, when I got to the boat, I was rigged and ready to go in under 30mins, no time for the charger to cram all the amps it could into the batteries which had not been connected for a week. Now, I never ran out of juice when I wasn't plugged in all the time, but didn't like the "reduced volts" I had available because the boat hadn't been plugged in. As Ron is found of saying, "your boat, your choice". Ron, does that also mean you are responsible for the actions you take regarding your boat???
#5
Main Message Board / Battery Equalization-Trojans T105
August 09, 2008, 11:15:52 AM
I have 4 Trojan T105s...2 batteries wired in series for a 12v bank...2 banks. I have the Trucharge 20. I've searched the site and read about equalization, read the Trucharge manual, and read the Trojan manual. Based on other research on the web, I have the following questions: 1)Trojan states the vent caps are to be in place during charging...I assume that includes during the equalization process...is that correct? 2)I've read where one needs to turn off anything connected to the batteries during equalization to avoid damage to those connected items...I've also read to disconnect them. Is having everything turned off at the electrical panel sufficient? Is there a possibility of damage to the electrical panel? The only directly connected device to the batteries I have is the bilge pump...so I know that has to be disconnected. 3)For those of you with T105s that have equalized them, can you provide guidance on what you did and how? Thanks in advance...plan on equalizing the batteries tomorrow...if the specific gravity isn't within parameters.
#6
Main Message Board / Pelican Hook Split Ring
July 22, 2008, 04:01:23 PM
OK, one of those Duh moments. Have been looking for 316 or 304 stainless steel split rings for my pelican hooks (life lines). Checked West Marine, BoatUS, Boating World, dive shops, Lowes, Home Depot, hardware stores, etc. Used cheap plated rings last year...they just rust. WM has the pin and ring for $20...Don't want to pay $80 for 4 rings (nothing wrong with the pins). Internet search has been marginal in finding quality rings. Does anyone have a line on a good fastner store in Alexandria/Annapolis area and/or internet store? I know they are out there...just can't seem to hit pay dirt. Thanks.
#7
A little off the subject of a C34...I have the subject dingy motor (2.5hp) and left my service manual on the boat. Had to bring the motor home for repairs. Does anyone know the fuel mixture ratio? From searching the Internet, appears to be 50:1...but haven't found anything definitive.
#8
Main Message Board / Keel Hairline Cracks
May 02, 2008, 05:13:11 PM
1998 MKII. I'm prepping the bottom for a barrier coat. Thought I'd skip doing the keel since it was lead...so I was just doing a light sanding when I noticed small hairline cracks in the paint. I sanded down to gelcoat and found the cracks there. Sanding further revealed unseen cracks under the gelcoat (hadn't penetrated the gelcoat yet). I have found 3 layers...gelcoat, light tan layer, light blue, then the lead. In some cases, the hairline cracks appear to start in the bottom layer (light blue). So, do I need to take it all the way down to the lead and then apply a barrier coat...or can I just apply the barrier coat over the gelcoat (i.e. will the cracks find their way thru eventually). Thanks. Pic attached. P.S. the area in the pic is not representative of the entire keel...it is just one of the worst areas and where I took it down to lead and revealed the different layers (bottom left of photo).
#9
Main Message Board / Rebedding Chainplates
December 29, 2007, 05:08:09 PM
I need to rebed the chainplates...I put it off last season because during the sailing season I sail (as in...no rebedding because on the good days I sail...) and only 2 leaked (minor). I haven't rebedded during the winter while on the hard (Chesapeake Bay) because I've been concerned that the hull misshapes and may break or weaken the seal when I launch in the spring. So, the question is: is my concern unwarranted? Has anyone rebedded their chainplates while on the hard during winter, and if so, where there any problems later? Do I need to wait until the boat is launched and the hull resumes its shape?
#10
Main Message Board / Where's #1
October 14, 2006, 05:53:05 PM
Well, according to the database, Tom Madden has #3...so, where's #1? And for that matter, where's #2? Just a question as to the roots we all belong to...  :?
#11
Main Message Board / Winter Cover
December 06, 2005, 03:22:59 PM
I'm considering buying a wiinter cover instead of wrapping the boat every winter. Has anyone used, and can recommend, a local manufacturer (local to Deale, MD; Annapolis, MD, or Alexandria, VA) who makes winter covers for sailboats? Does anyone have a recommended material (sunbrella, oddessy, etc.)? Estimated costs? Ease of install? Thanks. ---RAB