Topics

"Trinity" is an exceptionally well maintained example of a great boat!  For details and pictures, click on the following link:  http://pensacola.craigslist.org/boa/5280174310.html. You can also contact me directly:  Rusty Bond. r_bond@bellsouth.net. 850-281-9304

When we take Trinity (1993 walk-thru transom) out in seas more than 2ft. we hear a grinding (for lack of more accurate description) noise directly under floor in the cockpit.  Sounds/feels like it occurs between the pedestal and rudder access port.  It is most noticeable when the boat comes "up" from a wave trough.  I've checked rudder post - below decks as well as at top of rudder post via access port and everything looks fine - i.e. no unusual movement or play.  No water ingress around rudder post.  It's got me stumped.  Ideas/suggestions on what else I could check greatly appreciated. 

Trinity is a '93 model, with two, Group 27 batteries in the battery compartment immediately in front of the galley.  The cables come up from the bilge area, just in front of the water heater and enter the box via a hole at the lower aft inboard corner of the box.  I'd like to switch over to four Trojan 105s but I'm concerned about keeping acid spills confined to the battery compartment.  The articles/photos I've seen seem to show the batteries just sitting in the compartment which would allow acid leaks to drain into the bilge, given where my cabling enters the compartment.  How have some of you who are using Trojans addressed this concern?

The heat exchanger on my Yanmar developed a leak around the rear cap.  Caused some pretty extensive corrosion around it and, of course, down the backside of the engine.  I've pulled the engine to clean it up, remove all the gunk and repaint.  The heat exchanger "block" is cast aluminum.  Anyone have experience with or suggestions on how to clean up this mess.  I understand most caustic products are off-limits when it comes to use on aluminum.

Rusty
"Trinity"
'93, Wing Keel

I recently noticed some stains along the inside of the companionway.  At first I thought perhaps water had dripped in across the threshold and run down past the hooks where the steps connect  But when I removed the hooks so I could clean the stains and polish the brass, water seeped out of the holes.  I started tapping on the area below and it sounded like it was hollow on top but solid about 1/2 way down.  I started tapping with my fist (actually more like pounding) and sure enough...I could hear water sloshing around.  So I drilled a small hole in the center just above the bottom of the bridge deck and almost a gallon of water proceeded to drain out.  Anybody have any ideas where water could be coming from that is collecting in the bridge deck area?  Trinity is a 1993 model with a full bimini, connector and dodger so very little water actually "lands" on the hatch/companion way areas.  I'm stumped.

I have a problem with water forming a plug in my holding tank vent line.  Water coming down from the topside is getting trapped in a slight dip in the vent line, causing a "plug" so the line won't vent.  As a result the tank starts to swell and has occasionally pushed "stuff" back to the bowl of the toilet. 

Has anyone else had this problem and, if so, how did you fix it?

I've thought about plugging the whole in the lower section of the stanchion and drilling another higher up on the stanchion.  This should reduce water coming in from the deck, but given the routing of the vent hose I still have a "dip" to content with.

Thanks for any suggestions / ideas.

Rusty Bond
Trinity
1993 Std, Hull #1261

Is there some type of substrate in the bilge?  In the aft, middle section of my bilge - where the bilge pump is mounted - there appears to be a metal plate of some type that the pump housing is screwed into.  I can also see a ridge in the expoxy paint along one side.  Is this standard or something done by a PO?

Last week while having a discussion with the insurance adjuster about (great guy...my insurance is with St. Paul's Power Squadron program) some minor gelcoat damage as the result of Hurricane Dennis, when I went below I noticed a bit heavier diesel smell than normal.  

Some investigation soon led to the discovery of a small leak occuring somewhere underneath the tank.  Further investigation - during which I moved the tank slightly from it's normal position - soon resulted in the proverbial "flood".  I felt like the little Dutch boy with his finger in the dike:  one hand sopping up fuel, the other hand frantically dialing The Admiral to request a rapid delivery of fuel cans and a hose!

After the disaster was averted - i.e. 20+ gallons of fuel headed for the bilge - I discovered the cause of the leak.

Trinity is a '93 model.  Her fuel tank is sits on top of some heavy vinyl (maybe rubber, not sure which) strips.  I'm guessing probably for vibration insulation and perhaps to allow air to circulate between the tank and the fiberglass decking.

It seems that these strips were secured with stainless steel screws  Three of those screws were in contact with the tank and one of which managed to rub/corrode a hole in the tank.  The hole was pretty well "plugged" by the top of the screw head - thus the fuel "weep" to begin with - until I moved the "plug" by moving the tank.  

I'm glad I was dockside when this happened.  Sure would have been a big mess (and probably a big fine from the Coast Guard for acting like the Exxon Valdez!) had we been in a seaway.

So...I've purchased and am installing a new tank.  All of the screw heads are being covered to ensure we don't repeat this process.  

Thought I'd share this with the group  - might be worth a check of your tank bottom - the ole ounce of prevention scenario.

My '93 C34 has the Yanmar engine.  I've had the boat just a few months and while doing some routine maintance, I noticed several components on the back of the engine & tranny are beginning to show signs of corrosion from the salt water coming in via the packing gland.  

The gland is adjusted pretty well - 2-4 drops per minute when the prop is spinning - so it's not like there's an abundance of water getting slung around back there...just enough "moisture" that things are starting to get a bit nasty.  I really don't like the way the coupler is looking - very rusted.

Don't know if it the same with the Universal engines, but with my Yanmar, the distance from the tranny coupling to the packing gland is very short.  I think this proximity issue is the basis of the problem.  The previous owner had a rubber flap installed - fits over the top of the packing gland and extends out of the shaft a few inches - I suspect to try to cut down on the splash.

I have two questions:
1.  Is this an issue with all C34s or just those of us with Yanmar engines?
2.  Have any of you Yanmar owners switched to a PSS or one of the more "dripless" packing materials to reduce/minimize this problem?

Thanks,
Rusty

I need to clean my Perko water strainer (used on A/C system).  Someone suggested I use muratic acid.  Anyone know what the proper mixing ratio would be to most effectively clean a bronze fixture?