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Topics - RV61

#1
Main Message Board / Understanding Batteries
August 01, 2011, 10:38:55 AM
To All,
In addition to the info found on here at the C-34 site I found that the following site was very helpfull to undersanding the different battery types, how they work and most important how to monitor, diagnose and maintain healthy batteries . My choice  is still the good old flooded wet cells . Found the Battery guide PDF was very helpful.
www.discover-energy.com/downloads   Not sure if site will be a direct link. If not would like to learn how to add links to site messages
#2
 

Until recently we have been lucky that have not had any real issues with the head. After a couple overflows from the person using the head not putting the handle in the dry position we started using freshwater from the shower/sink facet in the head to flush the head and always keeping the handle on dry position. This method also made occasional odors go away. Recently I noticed after showering the head bowl had water in it and chalked it up to may not have close lid when showing until this weekend as the flush valve lever was in dry postion. The seacock that a sea water flush would come from is also set up as the sump drain for the shower and we would usually keep that Seacock closed unless we shower. The hose for the shower sump has a check valve . I had opened the seacock to prepare for shower and then got to doing something else and the next time I went in the head the bowl was just starting to overflow with sea water. Closed seacock and pumped dry. Opened seacock and the bowl started to fill. Three questions. From this I gather my Anti-siphon needs servicing or replaced?  By Putting a gate valve in on the water inlet hose to the head so that the only way sea water could enter the bowl is to open valve Thus eliminating issue if anti -siphon is bad  and forgetting to close seacock or if the lever was left in the wet postion?.  Should a properly working anti siphon eliminate bowl filling and overflow if  head lever left in the wet postion the bowl filling up?
I had read a couple earlier threads and back issues of tech notes thru a search of anti siphon but still have the above questions.

Thanks
Rick
#3
I have read all the threads on CNG and the tech info on the CNG adaptor. I have the adapter on the way and have run into another issue in filling my CNG tanks here in Ohio. I am trying to avoid the $80.00 per tank exchange with corp brothers as the shipping is what is the large portion of the cost. First the local gas utility company here in Columbus Ohio shut down their filling stations and the other here require a key card and those companies are not interested in my small need.  So what I was wanting to know if anyone out there uses a CNG a filling station in Central or northwest Ohio  or Southeastern Mi and the stations location  information. The locations in thisarea for swapping listed on Corp brothers is outdated and exchange is no longer available.

Thanks
Rick
#4
One project I wish I would have completed is thru bolting the traveler. yesterday while running down wind the traveler pulled completely out on an accidental Jibe.
For those with the early MK1 You will want to check to see if you are thru bolted!!!

I did a search and was looking for some detail from someone who has thru bolted.
Looking for some detail on the size bolts used and drill bit sizes and any other detail on this project. 
Thanks Rick
#5
Looking for view points of Wham Mic Wireless vs hard wired. I need more distance coverage than my hand held will give me at the helm. Wanted to see opinions on wireless vs hard wired to VHF  in particular transmission and receiving clarity differences. So what do you think?  Due to space constraints I do not want to relocate VHF to the helm from the Nav station. Will be changing out current VHF as my older model will not accept a wham Mic. Make and model input also appreciated.

Thanks in advance for your feedback
Rick
#6
This past weekend as leaving the dock and heading out into a busy channel the engine RPMs dropped as well as power and then  engine quit. Threw anchor put up flag and went to work. Fuel pump was clicking and I assumed for the moment it was working. opened bleed screw for a couple minutes and she fired right up as usual and no issues balance of the weekend motoring a couple hours after some great sailing.  However I need to check everything out. I suspect got some air in the system. After a fairly rough ride last time out I checked the Dahl filter bowl for contamination by loosening nut on bottom and it was clean. Can air enter by doing this? I have done this way for years and no issue. I will check the filter gaskets and make sure seated properly. All line appear in good condition as I have relaced all in past 4 years and removed screen on end of pickup tube. I change the primary and secondary filters regularly and use a biocide and Seton booster.  After reading more here I understand that my old clicking facet fuel pump has a screen in it? If so where would I find it thus I can check it.   I also think that if I had bad fuel I would see it as well as the condition would have persisted especially after the sail. I have a little less than half tank of fuel and will check to be sure pickup tube is on the bottom of the tank. What else should I check for air coming into system or fuel starvation?   Thanks for any feedback
#7
I have searched and found much discussion on the eyebrow that runs along the cabin top. The maintenance on these is taking to much sail time. I would like to replace with a strip of polished stainless steel to match my chrome dorades and the newer polished stainless portlights. Looking for a source.  Any thought much appreciated.
#8
On the A/C electric panel I have two orange lights that indicate A/C panel is live as well as a red light for reverse polarity. This weekend I noticed that one of the orange lights was flickering and finally went out. All seems well as all A/C outlets are working. I did a search and found one other thread that spoke about this with no real conclusion. I suspect it is just a burned out bulb after all it is original equipment from 1986. Does any one know why there are two orange and does it indicate different things?  Is there anything  else need to be looking for??
Thanks
#9
As it is said things go wrong the worst possible moment . The admiral and I were about a 1/4 mile out from dockage  when an impending storm arrived a bit early creating 6 foot Lake Erie chop waves and wind gusts of 40 plus when the engine water temp gauge shot up just above 180 degrees and she usually runs at 160 to 165. I  shut the engine down and noted we were drifting away from shore so no need to throw the hook and had the admiral take the helm  as I was headed for the water intake seacock and strainer for the engine. Pulled the strainer and found we picked up some sea  weed and cleaned it and put back on fired the engine back up and the temp was back to 160. Breathing relief started back toward our destination when the temp shot back up. So we shut her down again and went back down pulled the strainer this time with the seacock open to discover that it was clogged. Pulled out a coat hanger and tried to remove the obstruction to no avail. I could not get a good grip on the stainer with the channel locks to remove to get a better angle for the coat hanger. Then thought well I would just put the intake hose on the head sink drain however the nipple was to large to take the hose even with some trimming.  The head intake was not going to fit either from my vantage point at the time.  In the mean time the weather and seas were getting worse and I was getting tossed around the head and not able to get anything done when I started to think where else can i find water. Two answers came to mind the lake and the water tanks. Not having enough spare hose to run to the lake
I pulled out a bucket and filled with water from the sink faucet/shower and put the water intake  hose in the bucket to start sucking the water at what seemed 2 gallons per minute. I calculated we still had at least forty gallon left and enough to get us to safe harbor.
What was calming was there were many boaters close by and in radio contact and when we came in there were 6 people waiting for us as we docked and the storm was staring to hit its peak. Once  tucked in a fellow C34 owner came over and we removed the strainer and put the cork screw part of the coat hanger down thru the seacock and removed the obstruction  until we had the obstruction cleared out. The Storm cleared and had a fabulous pot luck dinner aboard with 4 other fellow sailors as the sun was setting.
What I learned was one can never learn to much about their boat and have a a back up plan. I will now have an adapter to put the water intake on the sink drain seacock if ever we run into the same situation. :thumb:
#10
This past weekend after splashing down a couple weeks ago went motoring out to the lake and found that in mid range of RPMs I had a much loud rattleing vibration noise. Cranked up the motor higher no rattling same in idle. Back at the dock I decided to look around while the engine was in nuetral thought something may be loose or something in the lockers rattling. Took everything out still loud rattling vibration in mid range RPM. Could not find anthing astray. This vibration rattle is loud like someone slapping or hammering the hull with metal. Searched our site and came up with motor mounts could be this issue as I believe they are original. When inspecting them what does one need to look for to tell if they are servicable or need replaced??  I put in new SS shaft, Cutlass bearing and coupler two years ago and had aligned and ruled all that out becuase the noise is there when in nuetral. I will make sure the mounts  are tight next week when I go. Any advise on inspecting, adjusting etc. on the motor mounts would be greatly appreciated by this mechanically challanged but yet learning sailor. I will also make sure the heat exhager is not banging against any glass Anything else to look for or tighted down to eliminate this hidious noise?? :cry4`
Thanks agian     
   
#11
Main Message Board / Teak In V Berth
April 18, 2006, 06:27:03 AM
Just completed varnishing the V berth teak and the Admiral wants to replace the plastic reading lights with brass to complete the makeover. My question is does anyone know what the width of the teak strip that runs forward and aft along the inside of the cabin top that the current plastic lights are mounted to. Want to make sure the base is not to large to mount in same place. Boat is 2 hours away.
Thanks
#12
Main Message Board / Dodger and Solar Fans
August 23, 2005, 07:46:42 AM
In process of considering adding a dodger to Interlude and concerned
about the day night solar fans working due to shade when a dodger is installed as they are mounted over the head and standing area of the aft cabin. I read some previous posts however I would like hear from anyone who would have a similar setup and understand their dodger design. On the dodger I want to be sure the frame is stiff as I would want grab bars.
What size tubing should be used? Still debating to set it up to see over or see through the dodger when considering height as I am 5'8" and the admiral is 5'2". I am leaning toward lots of window area and taller dodger
as I find when on other boats I bump the head coming out and going in the companionway.  Any thoughts appreciated. Also looking for a good canvass company in Ohio.
Thanks
#13
Main Message Board / Electrical resources
May 23, 2005, 01:57:05 PM
First I want to thank the entire board as you all have helped this mechanically challenged sailor over the first two years the Interlude has been afloat. From the new alternator bracket, screen on diesel pick up tube, rebbedding all chain plates and stanchions, Blisters on the hull where she sits on the cradle repaired, Varnishing all topside teak, replacement ports, dripless shaft, v-berth upgrade, fuel Gauge sender, interior lights,new stainless cowel vents, new solar fans, new fuel lines, new hump hose and new scupper hoses. I could not have done this all without the information that could be found  here and the tech notes. I had the yard do the wiring harness and the cracked leaky skeg.  :clap
I am know wanting to learn more about DC and AC electric and looking for a straight forward manual to help explain it all to me. I do have some very basics but want to add some new electronics, refrigeration and new charger to get rid of the buzzing 30 amp guest charger currently aboard aboard. I have read about the energy audits, alternators, chargers, batteries and have come to the conclusion in order to make the best decision  I need to learn how each of the components work independently and how they all interact with each other.  I looked for one of those electric for dummies book but no luck. Ant Suggestions?? :?:
#14
Main Message Board / Hump Hose Installation
April 28, 2005, 10:46:19 AM
I have ordered the new hump hose and have searched have found most of the info I was looking for . What a great site. The old hose as Ron puts it is a bear to remove and I would like some helpful has to how others have removed the old hose,  what  specific tools and procedures were used as I am somewhat mechanically challanged however have been learning again thanks to this site.   Could use some help full tips on how to remove the aqua lift as it may need to replaced or do the Stu repair once I get the hoses off.   I think this is the last of the leaks into the bilge.
Thanks