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I am 3 hours away from my boat and need to make a plywood cover for the mast hole in the deck...the marina "temporary" cover always comes off before I get my tarp on.  I have the material cut (a rectangle cover and a strip of wood for inside the cabin.  I have an automotive gasket material to seal the plywood and will bolt thru the plywood to the strip of wood and "clamp" the cover in place) but misplaced my dimensions of the hole...max length and width.  Does anyone have them?  I couldn't locate in my partial manual and can't seem to get connected to the data base here....thanks

Chris
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1989 Hull 945

Just a heads up to a potentially disastrous problem I discovered.  When I took the air filter cartridge off - the silver ring - I found that the "brillo" like material was deteriorating and the screen between it and the engine intake was about to go.  Had these metal "filings" found their way into the engine it would have been an expensive repair.  I discovered that there is only supposed to be a circular piece of foam over the intake and early on there were several variations - apparently not good ones for this filter.

Don't know if all agree but I would suggest removing the "Brillo" insides and just using the foam piece...don't know if this is common on other models......my 2cents.

I believe the PO upgraded the traveler on my boat to a Harken system....this wasn't original from what I read on my search....traveler works well even under a lot or pressure for what it is worth.  However....I didn't bring my camera with me this weekend and don't know how to attach pictures.....the lines on both sides go thru an aluminum block literally with 3 holes for the lines to go thru that line up with the rope clutches and jam cleats....the aluminum corroded and the holes the lines go thru have bumps and are not workable.  I was able to remove the "block" by drill partly on the bolt - the drill went off into the softer aluminum - after the screw broke off.  I can't seem to find the part or anything similar on Harken's web site and will call them Monday and see it they can help.  Does the popular Garhauer system have the same arrangement or is there a separate set of guides (not sure of the correct term - circles that the line goes thru and screws down to the deck) that mounts on the cabin top (after the deck organizer by the mast but before the line goes to the clutches?  This appears to be a serious option since I messed up the beam when trying to drill out the screws holding this "block"  Any thoughts or expiring would be appreciated.....thanks

Just got in the water this week.  I turned on my Ray Marine C70 and after about 45 seconds the screen "shook" and distorted and is now a wide gray bar with a few narrower black bands.  I am afraid the screen went out - only my 4th season with this!  I guess I'll need to pull the unit and send to Ray Marine...any experience or suggestions?

I am having extreme difficulty with getting part numbers let alone order same with Catalina....is there any advice on this?  I also don't understand the relationship between Catalina Direct and the factory...is there one?  I need a new holding tank and 2 shives for my outhaul in my boom....I have had problems in the past getting a drain piece for my head sink - took 4 deliveries over 2 months before I actually received the correct parts.   Is there a better way or procedure for this?  Thanks

Chris

I am fairly certain that hasn't happened to anyone else  - I am hoping for an easy answer but don't think there is one.  Apparently the foil piece that seals bottles - the piece you are supposed to peel off and throw away -in this case a biocide ended up going down the fill pipe to my fuel tank.  I just found out about this - the tank is full for winter storage.  Short of pumping the tan empty and taking the tank out and cleaning it - sounds like a difficult job - any way to fix this? I assume I need to be concerned about this clogging up the intake hose while I am going under the bridge against current or some other difficult place.  After what I thought was all the bad luck with fuel filling - I guess I will now get the west marine funnel filter that was reccommented in practical sailor if I can find the model

Any suggestions will be appreciated....thanks

I took my boom off the boat (1989tall rig) when I winterized because the outhaul didn't work - it would only move an inch or so.  Got both ends off the boom and found the block arrangement to be okay.  The forward and aft shives were a little worn but nothing that appeared to the eye to be jambing it.  Don't understand what was binding it??? Did notice several blocks inside the boom where the connection pins or rivets corroded thru and they weren't properly attached....none were being used....brings me to my point - does anyone have any sketches on how the boom was rigged from the factory?  I have a boom kicker so I don't have a topping lift and I reef on the outside of the boom (still haven't gotten it down to where I can do it from the cockpit) but there are many more blocks inside and slots for lines on the boom than just for a missing topping lift.  Any assistance is appreciated.

Thanks,

Chris
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945 1989

Does anyone have any advice regarding replacing the holding tank (MKI) and I'm sure there are opinions on fixing the poor venting?  Thanks

Chris Martinson
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Hull no 945

[does anyone know what the pitch should be]

While I normally do most work myself - I had my marina replace my cutlass bearing.  Unfortunately - they botched it relating to my prop.  The "mechanic" who took it off didn't mark or notice the pitch of the blades - he claimed he was familiar when I asked him...apparently not.  When I went out this weekend for the first time - no power.

I have no info from the previous owner -no manual or original settings - it is a PYI max  3 blade feathering prop.  The year of my boat is 1989 with an M25XP and the Hurth transmission - I believe 2:1- does anyone know what the pitch should be so I can start the long and contentious process with the marina about getting it right.  I suspect they won't be too keen on hauling every week to get it right....I've only heard horror stories about the length of time to get it set right.Also - any ideas on how to be sure it is set correctly?  I will contact PYI on Monday and see if they can help....any assistance will be greatly appreciated....thank you.

Chris Martinson
Hull #945

I recently upgraded/"fixed" some of my electrical system....installed the Blue Sea battery switch and relay (concept is great and installed easily) added missing fuses, removed isolators and inverter and other mysterious items and bought new batteries. I reset my heart monitor for the new batteries and changed the "floor" setting for time remaining based on 50%.  I'm getting ready to launch and after I installed the batteries and tested the new items everything was fine except my heart monitor showed a steady 3.1 amp draw with the battery switches OFF.  My bilge pump is wired off the house battery bank and I confirmed it was off..... the only thing I know of not thru the House or Engine switch is a wash down pump (PO installation) which was off....3.1 amp draw seems large.  I had the panel unscrewed and leaning forward but don't believe I crossed any wires....with the switch off - I can't find anything that is on.....any advice on how to find the source would be appreciated....i have a multi meter and understand I may need to get a meter that can sense amps thru the "jaw"....

Further - I can't seem to follow how the panel is wired...I can follow the negative back to the bus but can't seem to find where the postive is actually connected to the devices...for instance - it seems others had issues with this in the past....my fm radio is wired into my datamarine head unit instead of being on accessory....i wanted to change this but see why it was done this way....I can't find the positive lead.  I don't know how much of the panel wiring was done at the factory or redone/reworked later...it looks original but several wires are the wrong color with color bands on it indicating it should be a different color.  Rewiring the panel wasn't on my list - until now, or at least I think until now, I didn't have a problem with this....can anyone let me know about their wiring for this era boat and if the factory took the shorts cuts of relabelling the wires....thank you.

Chris Martinson
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#945

I've given up on the inverter route and replacing the alternator....some time ago maybe it was early this winter - i saw a very informative posting about Honda generators   ---- i believe it was the EU200i.  My recollection was it performed well and meet the needs of battery charging, microwave and laptops.  I'm not sure how to find that old post - any comments or concerns with buying this generator?

Also - for storage - my boat is remote - does anyone know if it will fit in the cockpit lazarette of a MKI 1989 standing up?  If I run it dry - any concerns about laying it sideways - if it fits.

Anyone who has solved the storage issue - i'd welcome any thoughts. 

Regarding the gas - i plan on running it dry each time and ideally storing it in the cockpit lazarette or in the locker just forward of the head...anything I should be concerned about?  the gas can i plan on keeping in my inflatable tender next to the outoboard fuel mix can.

Lastly - if anyone knows the best place to buy it

Thanks

Chris Martinson
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Hull #945

I am a third owner of my boat and the manuals are long gone and there are no markings on my alternator - it appears original or at least old....does anyone know the output?

Much thanks

Chris Martinson
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Hull 945

My marina requires the masts to come down each year but this year the yard has gone thru some changes and isn't even "light tuning"........they stepped my mast and attached the shrouds and stays and that is it.  The mast isn't even centered in the hole in the deck....my wedges sit in the galley sink......I've seen headers for detailed rigging and tensions but now when I need them I can't seem to find them.  Can anyone point me in the right direction or let me know how to do this and suggest what brand of tension gauge to buy. 

I know that first I need to get the mast relatively straight and in that process get the wedges in (I've read you need 4 but I have and then tune the mast to be straight and then go sailing and finish the job.....

Any help is really appreciated

Chris Martinson
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Hull number 945

Last year my head sink drain leaked - previous owner "caulked" the makeshift connection to the hose.  I know I need to replace the drain assembly and ordered a new drain from Catalina parts...unfortunatley they sent me 2 galley sink drains instead - another subject.....anyways - I mostly work by my self since my boat is far from my house.....any suggestions on how to hold the drain in place while removing the nut underneath?  At the end of the season I tried holding the drain still with a screw driver in the hole but I couldn't break it loose.  I found a forespar plastic drain that looks like the right size and plan on trying it.  Any suggestions are appreciated...thanks

Chris Martinson
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i think I may have posted this originally in the wrong place.....I am looking to buy a new starting battery - West Marine has them on sale but my manuals are on my boat which is 3 hours away...does anyone know what size staring barttery I need. My engine is a 1989 Universal M25XP...thanks

I am getting ready to launch and the yard just put my mast out.  I notice that the jib halyard was chafed near a vertical block attached to the mast near the top  (when the sail is hoisted).  I don't have a manual and am not sure that the block is supposed to be there although it seems it would help with alignment if it doesn't cause a chafing problem.  Anyone have any experience with this?  Can anyone confirm that the block is supposed to be there or have any ideas on a fix....thank you - any help or suggestions are much appreciated.