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Regret to say that our 1990 C34 fin keel is no longer ours.   After 10 years, we decided to let her go and to consider some other alternatives.  A tough decision for us both, to let a great boat leave our lives. Must add that Massey did a great job showing our boat.   We will certainly stay in the C34 Org., and thank the organization for its 10 years of friendship and fantastic technical help.  Fair winds! 

First, my apologies for a sales related question as opposed to a more technical issue.  We are reluctantly selling our boat, but have run up against the issue of our keel, which is a fin and not a wing.  The boat was purchased in Florida, is currently in Tampa Bay, and we have extensively sailed in Gulf coastal waters for many years without grounding (one watches the depth finder and uses charts).  We are now being told that fin keel boats do not generally sell well in the Gulf region, and that we should consider shipping the boat to where fin keels are preferred.  People keep telling to head North, but without giving any specific locations.   Our questions are: 1) how valid is this problem with fin keels in the Gulf, as we had never heard it before, and 2) "...where North?"   The Great Lakes, Long Island Sound, where?   Again, we are not trying to sell the boat on this site (it is already listed with a broker), but are looking for some guidance.  Any help would be appreciated.

We have just placed our 1990, C34, standard rig, fin keel, and "sugar scoop" stern on the market with the local Catalina dealer, Massey Yachts.  Lots of great memories from eleven years aboard a great boat.  Many thanks to all the C34I members for their helpful advice and support over the years.  Fair winds to all!

Back from Kenya and Turkmenistan and ready to put our C34 back into the water.  She will have been on the hard for 3 years come January when we finally get back to her.  When storage started, we spent a full 2 weeks getting her ready, including the purchase of a customer cover.  Additionally, the yard has kept up a regular inspection, as well as adding anti-mold crystals.  We originally expected to be back aboard within a year, but "stuff" happens.  We have started a re-commissioning to-do-list (very long and getting longer by the day), based on the various manuals, owner's materials, advice from this board, experience, etc., and feel reasonably confident that while we will certainly miss something, we will still hit the major points.  The major area of concern now is about starting up the engine...approximately 2000 hours, in very good to excellent condition when the storage began, and stored with new anti-rust coolant, new oil, removed impeller, over-filled transmission, etc. The fuel tank and system were also completely filled with new diesel and a stabilizing and anti-bacterial agent added.   We followed the protocols for a typical winter lay up, but it will now be 3 years.  We have spoken with several mechanics, and the factory rep, and everyone is saying, "....do an oil change and transmission fluid change and then just fire her up....no bit thing."   Our questions are: 1) is there any experience/advice/warnings about restarting a diesel that has been in storage for 3 years? and 2) any advice whatsoever about re-commissioning a C34 after 3 years?   Would appreciate any and all thoughts!  Many thanks. 

We are a few thousand miles from our 1990 C34, and need a dimension.  Does anyone happen to remember how much height there is between the shelf in the v-berth cabin and the overhead?  We are purchasing a new LCD TV and need to know how big can we go.  Many thanks for the help!

We installed the standard four 6V batteries, but without fusing.  After reading Mainesail and a few other posts, we now realize that when we return to the boat, we will need to get this done ASAP.  Has anyone used terminal block fuses for their 6V batteries, or do they stick up too far and interfere with the compartment cover?   

We have failed once again to retire and will be relocating to Africa for a few years.  Naturally we had just done a lot of work on our 34...new painted mast and boom, new engine mounts, new deck hardware, new running rigging, some new wiring, work on the non-skid, etc., etc.  Most likely, we will be away from the boat for 2 and possibly 3 years.   The boat is stored on the hard in a great yard in Florida, well strapped down, checked regularly for water in the bilge, and has anti-mold packets added from time to time.  There is also a small solar panel attached to our 4X6V housing batteries and the water levels kept up.  Our concern is whether this is enough?  We have left our boat for periods of up to 5 months (with full fuel and water tanks), and had absolutely no difficulties when relaunching, but 2 to 3 years is another story.  Any thoughts or advice would be a great help.

We have just completed a major list of maintenance/upgrade items on the boat, all of which were researched and made much more doable (and affordable) with the help of this C34 website.  The projects included a complete awlgrip paint job on mast and boom, new wiring, new engine mounts, resealing just about everything on deck, lots of woodwork below, etc., etc.  A total of 3 single spaced typed pages were completed in 4 months.  The last item on the list was installed this morning.....Ron's Sunbrella mastboot cover.  This website literally saved us thousands of dollars in yard costs, while giving us a great deal of pleasure in achieving all this, and getting to know our boat even better.  Many thanks to all those who over the years have asked the questions and contributed to the answers. 

Just installed a new traveler car and end pieces.  Installation went well and very happy with the setup.  However, the traveler car has 3 attachment points, while my mainsheet tackle attachs to only one point.  So what are the other two points used for?  Assume it is for newer 34s.

I have read in several places that 5 gal of water per day, per crew member is a good benchmark consumption number.  However, I have never seen a number for the expected fill rate (gal/crew/day) for a holding tank.   Is there a rough estimate for this?  It seems that holding tank capacity is more critical than water capacity for many owners. Just wondering.

Replaced our plastic handles and encountered the classic problem of the transmission shift hitting the pedestal guard when attempting to go forward.  The transmission would shift, but not as well or reliably as we wanted.  After researching the fix on the message board, looking at the drawings, and a couple of hours trying to squeeze out another 1/4 to 1/2 inch of throw at the transmission, we placed the shift arm in a vise, placed a pipe over the handle and straightened it to give an additional 1/2 to 1 inch of forward throw.  Works great.  Have not read of this approach on the message board so am wondering just how many times this has been done.

Our 1990, C34, is equipped with a holding tank, on-deck pump-out port, and a macinator/sea cock/plumbing that allows pumping out when far at sea.  We need to install some method of locking the system to eiiminate any possible discharging in restricted waters.  Would it be sufficient to simply lock the under-seat compartment, limiting access to the overboard system, or do we need to lock the seacock itself and disconnect the macinator?  

We have a Standard Horizon RAM mic in the cockpit, model CMP23 (a very old model and no longer in production or readily available).  The unit functions perfectly so when the plastic covering on the coiled cord disintegrated, we wanted to simply replace the cord and not the entire unit. Nor did we want to have to change out our nav station VHF and the wiring for a new RAM into the cockpit.   After searching the web, WM, and some local vendors, and finding no cost effective solution, we decided to speak with Standard Horizon (Ron's standard and good advice to go to the horse's mouth).  We call SH and explained our needs and received excellent service.  We sent off the RAM and a $40 check and 1 week later received the unit back with a new cord.  SH still understands customer service!

We have several cross-cockpit cracks in the non-skid, right in front of the hatch. The cracks are not deep (gel-coat), but are very noticeable. Rather than covering the area with a gate, we would like to do a repair.  We have done some research for a variety of solutions, and the one that most of the owners and yards here (south Florida) recommend is to open and then fill the cracks, and then roll on one or two coats of non-skid paint, resulting in a non-skid similar to the C387 (no pattern).  Our cockpit would then be different than the rest of our non-skid, which we would like to avoid if possible.  Our questions are the following: 1) Almost everyone says that using a latex or similar form to match the existing pattern is very diffficult, particularly for beginners (like us).  Has anyone used this approach?  2) Has anyone used the roll-on non-skid paint? How did it look and function? 3) Has anyone filled in thin cracks in the non-skid and then touched up the paint?  How did it look? Any thoughts/experience would be appreciated.

We lost one of our original C34 berth reading lights (small, brass color) in a collision with the captain's head.  Does anyone have one of these lights (or two) stored away in their attic, garage, or bilge?  Would certainly cover the costs.  Many thanks

We have been using loose netting to cover our 2 overhead hatches and the entry hatch, but would like a more "tailored" approach.  We know we can purchase a variety of off-the-shelf solutions, but has anyone retro-fitted their hatches with kits from the original hatch manufacturers?  Any leads or suggestions would be appreciated.

We have had our C34 for 7 years and have often thought of adding a dedicated starting battery to our circuit.  However, we have 4 x 6v batteries, which are monitored closely, as well as a Honda 1000 genset for emergencies, and have never come close to being unable to start the engine from the house bank.  So, knowing that I am asking a near heretical question, why do we need a dedicated starting battery?

We retire in June (again) and will be spending a lot more time aboard and doing some longer voyages.  As such, we are considering adding some more hanging storage in the aft cabin for coats, shirts, etc.  We have looked at various solutions for adding a long hanger pole without drilling too many holes in the boat, but are wondering if someone in the IA has already done this and can make a recommendation.  Many thanks.

We will soon be aboard for more than the 1 to 2 consecutive months each year, and are starting to consider some changes based on being able to do "regular" monthly and weekly maintenance.  We have been using Cetol (various types and number of coats) for the past 5 years and while it generally stands up to the Florida sun, we do not particularly like the "painted" look.  We are considering going to a teak oil, or a tung oil, or something that while requiring more/steady maintenance, will provide a better (to us) look.  Our interior is oiled and we do like the look.  Any suggestions or experience with oiled exterior teak, or other thoughts would be appreciated.

Thanks to Mike's article, we redid our old furler this last week....the instructions were clear and of great help.  Our furler was already operating well, but we wanted to take it back to its original performance.  We will no doubt have to change to a single line unit, but for the present, our 915 does a great job.  Thanks Mike.

Has anyone experienced a leaking holding tank?   As mentioned in our previous posting, CY is looking for a new holding tank, but almost everyone I have spoken with, including CY, tells me that the polyethylene tanks just do not fail.  Fitting into the tank may leak, but the tank does not fail unless struck.  Does anyone have direct experience or know about a holding tank failure.  The admiral wants a new "squeaky clean" smelling system, but if we can side-step the removal and replacement of the holding tank, it would be a help.  BTW, CY asked me if we had an 18 or 30 gallon tank...did not know there was 2 sizes.

Here is the situation, which has gotten us and the boat yard in a quandry.  We continue to have water in the bilge...exactly 2 inches in 5 hours.  We pump out and dry thoroughly, and 5 hours later there is another 2 inches...never less and never more than 2 inches...whether it rains or not.  Nor can we see where it is entering the bilge.  We have checked EVERY through-hull, tank, and have even pulled the boat out of the water and checked the keel and sump area.  Nothing.  Has anyone out there experienced this? 

Has anyone ordered a hard dodger from Catalina for an attempted retro-fit o their C34?   Assuming of course that CY has one that would fit.

We have an 11 foot Avon dingy, hyperlan material, with wood floor (4 slats) and wooden transom.  Great dingy and in great shape!  However, the continuous rub rail has separated from the craft, making the dingy look bad as well as loosing the protection.  We would like to have it back on, but to date our efforts have failed.  We have tried Avon's glue, glues from WM, etc., and all have failed.  Our yard is suggesting that we first clean the area to be glued with Toluene (available at HD), cut the continuous rub rail into 2 to 3 foot sections, and then use 2 part epoxy to attach each section. Has anyone had this experience?  Will Toluene damage the fabric?  Any advice would be helpful.
 

We are starting to consider moving our C34 into the Sea of Cortez.  Any experiences with keeping a C34 in San Carlos would be appreciated. 

We sail off western Florida, but are now planning to extend our cruising grounds into the Gulf and back around to the Bahamas, then who knows where (retirement is coming up!).  We currently have an aging RayMarine autopilot, RayMarine wind/depth/knotmeter combo, and use paper charts and 2 handheld GPSs.  We also have a full compliment of safety gear, a vhf, etc.  It is all working well, but we are thinking of adding at least a GPS/Plotter at the helm, and possibly a bit more electronics if needed/affordable.  Weather updates would be a particularly nice-to-have, given the number of times we have been "surprised" that weather reports were less than accurate.  We did our shopping a couple of years ago, when we thought we were going to Houston, so are now woefully out of date.  Any recommendations on minimum screen size, brand, networking or not, accuracy of weather data, etc?  We have contacted Garmin and RayMarine suppliers and of course they are all ready to speedily turn our cockpit into the deck of the starship Enterprise. Do we really need side and foreward scanning sonar?  Or 3D real time pictures of where we are sailing?  The list of features is enormous and admittedly impressive, but seems to be a bit over the top.  Some suggestions to start our search would sure be appreciated. The budget is in the $2000 to $3000 range.   

Our C34 is based in Tampa Bay, and for the next few years, the only time we have on her is during the summer months (not the best of times, we know).  We have used a CruiseAir hatch a/c unit for the past 4 years when in a marina, but with only approximately 8000 Btu, it is not a comfortable solution.  So, we either upgrade to a proper built-in a/c unit, or leave the boat on the hard for 3 to 4 years.  We have done our research on this site, and are wondering if there is something new out on the market, or some recent experiences that have not yet made it to the Forum.  Any advice/help, product recommendation, etc., would be appreciated.  Also, due to our current location (Kazakstan), we would like to have a dealer/yard/manufacturer do the installation so it is ready to go, when we arrive in June...any installation suggestions/experience in the Tampa Bay area?

Attended the Pacific Strictly Sail show and there was a C34 Mk 2 on display!  Some interesting "evolutions" from earlier models. What I thought really interesting was the surprise voiced by the local dealer staff that a C34 was even being shown, and also, the high level of interest that was being shown in the model by show visitors.  Of course the number of sales orders and the cost of build will ultimately determine whether the C34 turns into the C340, or simply disappears, but it was an "upper" to see one at the show and to hear the interest.  Just a thought. 

This summer, we visited a couple of Catalina dealers, and neither of them were too anxious to quote or even discuss the C34.  Neither of the dealers even included the C34 in their pricing lists and model comparisons and summaries.  In both cases, the C350 was the model being "pushed."  While not actually saying so, the strong impression being communicated was that C34 production was about to end.  Has Catalina announced any plans to discontinue the C34? 

We are sailing from Tampa Bay to Houston this summer and are now seriously considering adding an updated chart plotter with radar.  Any experiences with either the Garmin or RayMarine radar brands?  We hear good and bad things about both, and almost nothing about the other brands.  We are particularly concerned about night sailing and having the ability to avoid both ships and weather fronts.  Any ideas, experience, etc. would be appreciated.   

We are sailing this summer, from Tampa Bay to Galveston Bay.  Once in Texas, we would like to store our C34 on the hard. 
We have been searching the internet and other sources, and have 3 issues that we are hoping C34 IA members could provide us with some assistance:
1) Dry storage in the Galveston/Houston area seems hard to find...at least for us.  Can anyone recommend or even know of a boatyard that stores sailboats on the hard?  We have found lots of available slips, but no dry storage.
2) We have been searching for a chart kit(s) for the Northen Gulf coast, similar to the Maptech kits we have been using in Florida.  We can certainly purchase the individual NOAA charts, but would prefer some sort of "kit" similar to what we have used in moving around Florida.  We can just purchase another data chip for the GPS, or unlock the CD for another region, but we like to use the "hard copies" when aboard.  Any suggestions on chart kit sources?   
Finally, 3) Radar...any suggested brands and/or installers in the Houston.Galveston area?  We have received so much "expert" contradictory advice that we thought it time to return to the real "users."     

Hope the group can help, as it most certainly has in the past 3 years!  As always, many thanks.

We received a Garmin GPS Map176C, with a 010R chip, as a gift.  The unit is used, but functions perfectly.  However, the PO used a cleaner on the screen, taking off the anti-glare covering, making it very difficult to see in any but the "perfect" angle.  We have written, emailed, and telephoned Garmin to find out if the screen can be replaced, or if there is an after-market coating that can be applied to cut the glare, but cannot get an answer.  Does anyone know of an anti-glare product that can used?  Many thanks.   

We managed to get a new bow pulpit from CY and will be putting it on this Christmas vacation time (yup, we are in education).  Our question is this: is there a particularly good tool with which to reach, remove, and then retighten the mounting nuts.  We can reach them, although it is a bit tight, but the space to use a tool is limited.  Additionally, we are concerned about dropping tools, sockets, etc. into the hull.  We have looked at rachet-type box wrenches, magnetic sockets, off-set wrenches, etc., but wondered if someone out there might have a recommendation. 

We have just come back ashore after a month aboard our C34.  Cruised from Marathon to Tampa and had an interesting and wonderful time...even the overnight sail from Key West to Naples was enjoyable if a bit damp thanks to a 'stalled" Alberto. 

We would like to thank the association for all of the suggestions, hints, and other words of advice that went into the preparation for the trip...the new rudder is fantastic and makes a tremendous difference in boat handling...the addition of the Honda genset allowed us to anchor out much much more...the GFO packing really does do the trick...the new bow pulpit from Catalina Direct looks great...and all of the other suggestions were excellent and we thank you. 

One item...keel separation...our C34 went over on the hard during Wilma, when we lost the first rudder and no doubt stressed the keel.  We had the traditional "Catalina Smile" except the crack was 1/4 inch wide and extended back nearly 2 feet.  After much advice, we elected to completely drop the keel, reseal, and reinstall. Glad we did as the keel dropped easily down when the bolts were loosened.  Without the bolts in place, we would have lost the keel.  Anyway, checked everything out, resealed with 3M 5200, and retightened to spec.  The total job from start to finish took only 4 hours.

Thanks again...

We are sure this has been covered before, but cannot seem to locate the thread.  We need to do some touch-up painting on our keel stepped mast and the boom.  We have some "bubbling" starting in the original factory paint job (white) and need to sand and repaint in a few spots.  Wondering if we should go with a 2 part or single part coating, and what we need to avoid in order to get a reasonable job.  Thanks for the advice.

We have been shoppig on line and there are numerous sources for the Honda, all of which we have never done business with.  Does anyone have a supplier for a Honda that they would recommend?  We will be making the purchase via the net and mail, so any recommendations would be appreciated.   Thanks.

Not a new topic; rather a request.  Does anyone out there have a keel bolt tightening tool that they could mail to us and we could return....or can someone provide a source for a proper socket?    If a "loaner" is available, we would certainly cover the costs of mailiing.  We will need to have the tool sent to Dallas in mid-May, and we would mail it back in mid-June.  Many thanks.

Some thoughts and experiences please.  We have decided to go solar and are looking at adding 2X60W panels.  The problem is where to put the panels.  We do not particularly like the look of a rail mount, and the cost of adding an arch is too high for the budget.  We are considering putting the panels on top of the bimini, by adding some extensons from the bimini poles to support a lateral tube, on which the panels would be mounted.  The questions are: 1) Has anyone done this on their C34? 2) The bimini frame will support the load (have done the math), but in moderate winds, will the slight twisting of the bimini induce twisting loads on the panels and thereby cause damage? 3) Are there other locations on the C34 that we should consider.  We have also considered the top of the dodger, but think the sail's "shadowing" effect might make this a poor choice.  Thoughts/experiences/suggestions please.   

We are planning to bring Wildflecken II, from Marathon up to Tampa, during the 2nd and 3rd weeks of June.  She is a standard 1990 C34, with a fin keel, new deeper rudder, and a standard mast. The initial plan is to sail down to Key West in the Hawk Channel, then take the Key West to Marco Island passage on a 24 hour sail, then hop up the coast to Tampa, in a series of 20 to 50 mile daily sails.  Once in Tampa, the plan is to place the boat in dry storage until December.  We know we will have to watch the weather, but any advice on anchorages, marinas, dry storage places in Tampa or nearby, etc., would sure be appreciated.  We have purchased Claiborne's cruising guide, and most of the needed  charts, have a GPS, etc., but nothing beats some local knowedge.  Many thanks.

Some guidance and counsel please!  Our 1990 C34, toppled over on the hard during Wilma.  We have now replaced the rudder with the elliptical model (new control is fantastic), repaired the minor bumps and bruises, drained the engine oil and water from the bilge, and finished off the other small bits and pieces.  The last item is the bow pulpit which is bent severely on the starboard side (left side is okay, and no fiberglass damage).  We managed to get it "unbent" enough to sail, but it definitely needs repair or replacement.  Catalina has quoted a price of $395, and another $50 crating.  However, we have just learned that the pulpits were not indexed when built by Catalina's supplier, i.e., new pulpit mounting holes do not match up with the existing deck holes.  This of course would mean that we fill the old holes and re-gel coat, then drill anew, etc.  Questions: 1) Is the non-indexing story true?  2) If only one side of the pulpit is bent, could the bent section realistically be cut out and re-welded? 3) Should the weld be electro-polished?  4) Any good welders in or near Marathon FL? 5) Any bent pulpit straightening stories out there?  Know it is difficult to comment without seeing the actual damage, but any thoughts would be appreciated.

Perhaps the northern California C34 members can help us.  We live in Costa Rica, and currently sail our 1990 C34 out of Marathon, FL.  We are teachers so spend all summer and a month at Christmas on the boat, living aboard.  We are thinking of trucking the boat to the bay area, and keeping/sailing her there.  We would prefer to store the boat out of the water when we are not in the area, but of course have access to a slip for the times we are aboard.  We have done some internet research on marinas and yacht clubs, but a few recommendations would sure be of help.   Can anyone recommend a marina that could meet our needs?  Thanks as always.

Having now owned Wildflecken (#1023, 1990, std rig, fin keel) for a year, and reading everything I could get about sailing performance, particularly off-shore, we have just returned from a 3 week sail in the Florida Keys and have some numbers.  Off Ft Lauderdale, in 8 to 10 foot seas and 30 knot winds almost dead astern, the boat was easily managable under only a double reefed main, reaching 6.8 to 7.1 knots.  Off Key Largo, in 5 foot seas and 20+ knot winds, the boat went 35 degrees to windward, at 4.7 knots, again under only a double reefed main, with very little (5 degrees) of weather helm.  In both instances, the auto-pilot had no difficulty in keep on course...with us at the ready.  We were constantly amazed at how well the boat handled, how relatively dry she stayed, and how "solid" she felt.  We are certainly pleased with our purchasing decision and hope to be back aboard (in more pleasant conditions!) this summer.

Finally back into the message board.  Must sincerely thank the association for all the advice in getting our 1990 C34 ready to sail....3 weeks of sailing this past summer was great, thanks to the information provided!  

Now, for the next project: changing out the prop shaft and cutlass bearing.  The problem is that we want to order the replacement parts from Catalina, but are told that we need to first specify a prop shaft length.  Our plan is to pull the boat from the water, change out the shaft and bearing, and be on our way to Key West...all in a day or two.  We cannot see how we can get the boat out, measure, order the parts, receive them, install them, and still meet our schedule.  Can anyone suggest a prop shaft length that is more or less "universal"?  We can always saw a bit off a shaft if need be.

We are also in need of a steaming/deck light fixture and a mast boot.  Any suggestions or should we just order these from Catalina also.  

Thanks for the advice.   Steve and Nancy on Wildflecken II