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Topics - David Sanner

#1
I just updated the wiki but figured I add my recent experience here.

I noticed yesterday there was no water pumping out of the exhaust.  Quick check of the impeller and it looked fine.  I cleaned the strainer, pulled the hoses and all seemed clear yet it still wouldn't pump.  I popped in an old globe blue impeller and all was well.  Did I miss something?  Slightly worn profile w/ cover plate groves the cause?  Seems like I would still be getting some water as I primed the lines, etc.

Doing some head scratching at home today with what looked like a perfectly good impeller I noticed the metal portion that is keyed to the shaft was more or less free spinning inside the rubber impeller itself.  Poor design I would say as it looks like more of a friction fit between the metal and the rubber. 

Anyway... a simple heads up when doing an impeller check as I'm sure I'm not the first or the last w/ this issue.

#2

Maybe a rare item but figured I'd put this out there.  Email: my last name  @ big.net or the site Webmaster address.

-d
#3

Looking for something that has enough life in it to stand up SF winds, UV cover and tape for #6 foil.
Anything from a 100% up to 130%

Boat in SF Bay.  Thx
#4
Main Message Board / Side Deck Width
August 18, 2020, 02:19:01 PM

I'm in the process of setting up a portable diesel heater (may do a permanent install later) and thinking of setting/securing it on the deck near the shrouds just outside one of the opening portlights and pumping fresh/dry/warm air in while the exhaust stays outside/outboard.   Unit is self contained 10W x 15L x 12H complete with a 5L fuel tank & pump, just plug into 12v and control w/ a remote. (see image)  I paid $120 on Amazon.

I'm sure I'll be able to secure it well, especially with a custom base perhaps designed to sit/catch inside the toe rail, but I'm still trying to figure out the best orientation.

Anyone near their c34 (MkI preferred) that could measure the deck width from inside of the toe rail to the base of the cabin top by the cap shroud & the height of the opening portlight?   

(I'm holed up 200 miles & 6400' from the sea but boat projects continue!)

Thanks - I'll post some photos, perhaps on a wiki page, when I finally get to use it this fall.
#5
Fleet 1 / 2019 Great Vallejo Race - May 4th & 5th
March 21, 2019, 12:39:09 PM

Hey c34 skippers ... come on out for the annual Great Vallejo Race - racer & cruiser fleets!

Sign up here:  https://www.jibeset.net/YRA000.php?RG=T007080013

Please feel free to comment / communicate via this topic here.
#6
I had to pull my keel stepped mast to replace a split/jammed sheave and do few other things.  When I pulled the mast cap off I was surprised to see that the main halyard was run over top of the bolt that holds the mast cap on, then angled slightly incorrectly on the wrong side through bolt that holds the cap shrouds on and then on the wrong side of the spreader bar.  I'm guessing it's been like this for 15-20+ years.  Previous owners!

With the new ball bearing sheaves I can finally raise the main from the cockpit by hand!

Pictures tell the story... the 2nd image is inside of the mast cap which show the route the halyard took over the bolt.

The "easy" fix for this if you think your halyard may be misrun is to remove the mast cap bolt, the halyards should fall into place with a little tension and then reinsert the bolt.  



#7
Nearly new... only partially installed on my c34 for a few months.
All parts, and screws, installation instructions, etc.

See at http://westmarine.com/  WM#336479

WM sells for $307... how about $100 + shipping?

#8
How accurate is the 50% battery discharge rule of thumb?

I've been looking at this graph from US Battery... (see attached)
[attachimg=#]

Perhaps I'm missing something here but the slope of the curve
between 40% discharge and 90%  discharges makes me question
the 50% rule for battery discharge. (I know it's a semi-log graph)

The graph shows that if you run your batteries down 40%
(60% left) you should expect 1475 cycles in it's life.  

However if you run it down twice that, using 80% of the battery
capacity, you should only expect 675 cycles.

But here's the catch that I'm wondering about...
Since 80% DoD is twice amps the 40% DoD one would
only have to cycle half as often.

So doing the math the life cycles for a similar total
energy usage would be: 1475 vs. 1350 (2 X 675)  

That's less than 10% difference... not bad considering
how much better the acceptance is on a 80% discharged
battery and hence less overall time running the engine.  

And not bad since you would only have to by half the
battery bank to get the same number of amps between
charges.

Surely I'm missing something considering how many times
I've heard the 50% rule but it sure looks like if you
really want to get life out of your batteries don't drain
them much below 20% ... and once you get get below
30 or 40% (and the curve straightens out) taking them down
to 80% might not be as harmful as you may think, especially
if it's only for that week long cruise now and again.

Here's a link to the original chart:
http://www.usbattery.com/usb_images/cycle_life.xls.pdf

Then again perhaps this chart is not be believed as I've
also read that number of cycles to 80% will be less than
half the number of cycles of one cycled to 50%.

One would think US Battery didn't just make those
numbers up.


#9
Main Message Board / TrueCharge 20 Voltage Adjustment?
February 24, 2009, 03:42:51 PM
I have a Xantrex TrueCharge 20 connected to two 6v US Battery for my house batteries.
(which is sometimes connected to a group 24 starting battery).

My 5 year old 6v batteries aren't what they used to be and I assumed that they
were having issues partially because I was leaving my fridge on (cold beer availability
is a must onboard) so I finally bought a 350 watt switching power supply and
a relay so that the house bank can properly charge (I've also picked up a
trickle charger for my starting battery as I don't believe that either can
properly charge when both connected to a TC20) and I can equalize the
batteries as well.

Anyway during this process I spoke with the battery manufacturer and
they told me that the TC20 wasn't putting out enough voltage during
the charging cycle (presumably during the absorption phase) and was
putting out too much during the trickle charge.

There doesn't seem to be any combination of the switch settings
(cold/warm/hot or battery type) to provide the needed range.

Has anyone opened up a TC20 or seen the schematics?
I'm hoping there might be a way to tweak the individual voltages.

Otherwise I guess when I get my next set of 6v batteries I better
make sure they'll properly charge with the TC20.



#10

Just wondering if anyone has a Martec Slipstream all
stainless folder on their boat?

If so how does it perform and what pitch did you select.

For those not familiar with the prop it is a geared folder
(2 or 3 blade, I'm looking at the 2 blade) that is all
stainless so it wears better and has less issues with
electrolysis.  It's also, supposedly, has an improved
blade shape compared to the other martec folders.

I'm comparing this prop to the kiwi prop. 

If you don't have this prop but have another large
bladed 2 blade prop what pitch did you select?

I currently have a 15x9 3 bladed fixed prop with my
M25XP.  I figure it could handle at least another degree
of pitch so I'm wondering how a 15x10 translates to a
2 blade folder...  11 pitch or more.


#11
Main Message Board / c34ia Photo Sharing w/ Flickr
March 02, 2007, 02:08:56 AM
I've recently setup a c34ia photo area at Flickr.com (a photo sharing website)
and uploaded just a few photos to get things started.  You can view them here
http://flickr.com/photos/c34ia/

We've been using this for awhile for Fleet1 photos and it's worked well.
In fact if you visit http://c34.org/fleet1/ the photos on the home
page are automatically pulled from the Flickr site.   All of  Fleet1's
photos can be viewed here http://flickr.com/photos/c34fleet1/

Directions on how to send (email) a photo in can be found at
http://c34.org/photos/   (c34ia member password required, same a tech notes)


So feel free to send some photos of your boat, yourself, sailing, water
scenery, anchorages, yacht parties, ... just about anything c34 related.
These photos can be sent and normal (megabyte+) size for high quality viewing.

Let's see some photos!

#12
Main Message Board / Default Theme for this BBS
January 31, 2007, 03:08:33 PM
As some of you may have noticed there are have been some problems with our BBS
(they started when I upgraded to the latest release of the core bbs software)

These problems come from the default 'Theme' (called subSilver) we've been using.
So... it will have to replaced with Theme compatible with SMF version 1.1 of our bbs.

If anyone would like to put their 2 cents in / vote for the next default Theme here
about 100 themes to choose from ->  http://custom.simplemachines.org/themes/

I think the criteria for the Theme should start with being simple and being similar our current theme.

If you have any thoughts/choices post just reply to this topic.

#13
After all the recent talk of Kubota parts v. Universal and that the Kubota parts
can be found for about 1/3 of the price online I updated the manuals page 
(http://c34.org/manuals/index.htm) adding a Kubota parts manual and a
link to www.tractorsmart.com who sells the discounted Kubota parts.
(Kubota makes the land based version of the C34 Universal engines and accordingly
their identical parts are much cheaper)

The manual is a pdf a bit over 6 megs in size and is for the M25XP (i.e., Kubota D-950)

Some parts will be the same as all the M25__ but others will be different.  I'd check before ordering. 
(As we saw from another thread the water pump, thermostat are the same parts ).  I would think
most of the accessory parts are the same but core parts, pistons, connecting rods, etc are slightly
different between models.

If anyone finds a source for the D-850 (M25) or any of the other models
let me know and I'll put up those Kubota part manuals as well.


#14
Main Message Board / Mainsheet Blocks & Routing
September 14, 2006, 09:18:35 PM
I've been thinking about venturing into the world of boom bail placement, and mainsheet routing.
I think the original routing on the MK I has a lot to be desired as well as the placement of the boom bails.

My Mark I setup (see photo) is a 6 to 1 purchase (or 6 1/2 to 1 if you count the sheet going forward).
The sheet starts at a beckett on the boom and winds up at block at the base of the mast. 
From there it is run directly back to a fairlead under  the traveller track and then through a rope clutch. 
(The original ran the sheet to the gooseneck then to the base of the mast and then trough the
deck organizer... loads of friction.)

The Mark II booms (which I assume are of similar strength) only have two bails for the mainsheet
each with a double block on them.  It is also a 6 to 1 purchase (though maybe a 7 to 1 if you count
the two lines that run forward).  I like the routing much better because the sheet runs straight
back from the block on the cabin top.

I've been looking at my boom and the sheet angles and I keep thinking the MKII  looks better.
It's a trade off between how far aft the bail is and the angle the sheet makes with the boom (pulling
straight down is better than at an angle).   Seems to me the Mark II has a slightly better purchase since
each end of the mainsheet goes through a block on the deck forward and I think it might be
slightly more effective because their are four lines on the aft bail, the bail that has the most
effective pulling angle.  (The aft most bail on the MKI, even though it's further out
is less effective because some of the force is wasted pulling the boom forward instead of down)

Though Catalina may have made the change from three to two bails to save money I
think they might have decided that the booms are strong enough to work with only two
bails and that this setup might also be better, more efficient.

There are a lot of factors from the strength of the boom to the force on the gooseneck so
I don't think I'm going to make any changes without taking a few more measurements
and asking a lot more questions... & probably calling Catalina... but I'm wondering if anyone
had any other thoughts on the subject?   Like, the 8% gain is not worth the
trouble ... or I've routed my mainsheet years ago like the MKII and just use the
forward two bails. 

#15
Main Message Board / dinghy outboard size
July 18, 2004, 01:01:13 PM
I'm looking into getting a dinghy for my c34.

I'd like to get something that would plane with say 300lbs or so of passengers onboard. What size motor would I need for say a 9' inflatable?
Would a 5hp do it or would I need 8+hp?

Any opinions on inflable floors vs. plywood?
I'm also looking for an inflatable that I could stow onboard as well as quick setup.

thanks, David
#16
Main Message Board / Replacing Masthead Sheeve
March 03, 2004, 02:55:06 AM
Has anyone done this?

Can I replace the sheeve for the main aloft or do I have to "pull the stick?"

thanks, David  (1988 #611)