Topics

As our MK I's come up on 40 years old, I am concerned that insurance will be hard to come by. Does anyone have any info about companies which insure boats older than 40?

Thanks, Dave

I know I have seen this posted but can't find it.
Has anyone filled the small area (water trap) in the hull behind the aft cabin bulkhead and what did you use?

I just programmed my ARS-5 according to the spec's below for my new house bank of Firefly AGM's and I have a few questions if anyone can help:
http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=174781&d=1533234421

The high voltage limit (AHL) is supposed to be 14.4. My ARS-5 will only scroll down to 14.8.
Is this a problem with the battery type being set for AGM or am I doing something else wrong?

Two other questions:
1) The minimum Absorption Voltage Duration ( A1c) is supposed to be 30 minutes. If the batteries are full due to solar charging, why would I want the minimum Absorption to be 30 minutes?

2) The Minimum Float Voltage Duration (F1c) is supposed to be 6 hours. The regulator only goes to 5. As Firefly's don't need a float charge and because I have my solar controller already set to float at 13.2, I can't see that this is a problem. Any thoughts?

Thanks!

Just wondering what everybody uses?
The more I learn, the more I don't know :)

I have a simple Guest Isolator http://www.marinco.com/en/2530 coming off the alternator.
This seems to have worked OK as the batteries have lasted eight years.

As I look to replace my four T105's and Group 27 Start Battery, I keep wondering how my Balmar 110 alternator / ARS-5 charges the house bank efficiently without frying the start battery.
I'm considering 2-3 110Amp 12 Volt Firefly batteries -suggested Balmar settings: Start Delay 30 sec., #High Voltage Limit 14.4V, Compensation Limit 14.8v Fac. Default, Bulk Voltage 14.4V, Bulk Time 30 min., Absorption Voltage 14.3V, Absorption Time 60 min., Float Voltage 13.4V, Float Time  6 hrs.
If I don't go with Firefly's, I'm considering four Trojan Reliant T105 AGM's.
I'm am unsure about a start battery in either case.
I also have 200 watts of solar, Blue Sky MPPT with very customizable charge parameters along with a Xantrex True Charge 40 with just three basic battery settings.

A Sterling Battery to Battery Charger https://shop.marinehowto.com/products/sterling-power-60a-dc-to-dc-slash-battery-to-battery-smart-charger-star-new-star
seems to be the ideal solution but is it really necessary?

Thanks to all of you EE's out there!

Dave
   

[Project Goals:]

I know a little bit more than enough to be dangerous :)
Any guidance you can give me is greatly appreciated!


"Water Music" was almost completely rewired by the previous owner. It looks like it was professionally done but...

Project Goals:
1) Fuse batteries
2) Install shunt to existing MPPT remote display http://www.blueskyenergyinc.com/products/details/ipn_proremote
3) Determine energy usage, size and replace battery bank

Background:
The existing house bank consists of four Trojan T105's under the aft dinette seat. There are three main runs off of the house bank-1) main distribution panel, 2) Freedom 800 windlass with separate circuit breaker and 3) back-up engine start circuit
All utilize 2AWG wiring
Charging consists of Yanmar 3YM30  engine with Balmar 110 alternator and ARS-5 Smart Regulator, 200 W of solar and a 40 amp Xantrex charger

Challenges:
There is not enough vertical clearance above batteries to install MRBF fuses.
There is almost no room in battery compartment to install a shunt and certainly no room to work without removing batteries.

Proposed:
1) Install hinged access door in side of aft settee just forward of galley
http://www.boatersland.com/wcp60730.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIhPbQhJDp3wIVGrbICh3BkAmtEAQYAiABEgLl8vD_BwE
2) Install BlueSea Safety Hub with 200 amp fuses for the three main circuits onto the access door. Additional small circuits for CO Detector and additional bilge pump.
https://www.bluesea.com/products/7725/SafetyHub_100_Fuse_Block


Battery Positive (1/0 cable) > Blue Sea 100 (200 amp fuses) > Main Distribution panel, Windlass and Back-up engine start circuit utilizing existing 2AWG cables

Battery Negative > Shunt > Bus Bar (3 main circuits plus solar negative, CO Detector and bilge pump)
https://www.bluesea.com/products/2104/PowerBar_600A_BusBar_-_Four_3_8in-16_Studs

Questions:
I've seen Distribution panels hinged but is it permissible to install main battery feeds onto a hinged access door?
I know a fuse is not necessary for the engine starter but I would feel better with one. Is a 200 Amp fuse big enough for a 1.4 KW starter?
If not, what type and size of fuse would you recommend.

Any other suggestions or concerns?

Thanks!
Dave

I have rain water leaking through my aft lazarette. I've tried a bit of weatherstripping but the engineering of the hinge and the way it opens makes it tricky.
Has anyone had success dealing with this?

Thanks, Dave

I have twice removed my compass to tighten the hex bolt which provides tension on the throttle shaft. This of course means removing my electronics pod to be able to remove the compass...
Last month, I made sure to add some loctite to the threads thinking that the bolt had backed off the first time.
After only a month, the throttle will not hold it's position.
Has anyone else had this problem?

Thanks, Dave

I thought I would give an update on the status of my bilge and keelbolts.
I knew when we purchased #206 two years ago that there had been some water between the keel and hull (brown stain from seam).
The first summer was spent stressing over a leaking keel bolt - some butyl tape actually stopped the leak!
When we pulled the boat out of the water this past fall, the Catalina smile had opened up.
Following Catalina's instruction, we pulled out the plywood between the bilge floor and hull and replaced with layers of fiberglass mat. Most of the wood was good but a bit in the 3rd compartment was black and damp.
Not knowing the history of the boat, I decided to drop the keel and inspect the keel bolts (many suggest this as maintenance after 30 years anyway).
The good news, all of the bolts were in excellent condition after 30 years despite sea water in the seam.
Today, the keel was slathered with 5200, the boat is one again and I can rest easy.

A bit more fiberglass work, some barrier epoxy & bottom paint and into the water next week to enjoy the arrival of warm weather in the North East at last!

Happy Sailing!

After flying symmetrical spinnakers on other boats for 30 years, I am now planning for an Asymmetrical on Water Music.
I believe our I is 44' and the sailmaker says the typical C34 luff is 42.75'.
With the tack line mounted just forward of the headstay and utilizing a sock with a foot long pennant at the top, is this long of a luff likely to get caught in the bow pulpit?

Thanks for your help!  - Dave

I'm trying to eliminate what I think are the electrical wires slapping inside of the mast below deck level.
I'm thinking of slicing a foam swim noodle lengthwise and sliding that over the cables up inside the mast.
Has anyone used this approach or see any pitfalls?

Thanks, Dave

The base of the forward, port side stanchion on my stern rail has cracked. I believe this was caused when I raised my dinghy on the davits without having the lifelines snapped together but not positive.
I have a quote from railmakers of $1500 including shipping for an entirely new pushpit. Local welding repair would be around $400.
This is also the stanchion through which the wire for the stern light travels as well as my GPS antenna. Both will have to be removed for welding. Solar cable and diesel fill are near-by although I was told they would not be problematic for welding but the rear stanchion will need to be unbolted so the problem stanchion can be raised sufficiently away from the fiberglass.
I don't see any evidence of corrosion on the other bases and am inclined to repair the single stanchion but would hate to have problems with the others shortly down the road.
Any advice or thoughts?

Thanks, Dave

Has anyone had success matching the headliner color with some kind of putty? I replaced my curtains with shades and have a number of screw holes I would like to fill.

Thanks, Dave

I'm about to wire my solar panels and most people recommend a switch between the MPPT and battery.
I have two 100W panels (5.8 Amps), each feeding a Blue Sky 1524ix MPPT. Blue Sky recommends a 20/25 amp fuse between the battery.
I was hoping to combine the positives of the controllers to a single 25Amp surface mount breaker/switch. An alternative would be a 50 Amp breaker with a 20 Amp fuse between the breaker and each MPPT.
Any thoughts or other ideas from my electrical expert friends?

Thanks, Dave

One of the problems with trying to educate myself out of ignorance is the difficulty of discerning what to beleive when I receive conflicting advice. I hope that my friends here at C34 can help.

I am installing two 100 watt panels above my bimini on two cross bows. The bows have about an 8" rise in the center so each panel is angled away from parallel.
My plan is to connect each panel to it's own Victron 75/10 controller. This should mitigate the problem of shading on one as well as maximizing  the different angles of sun hitting the two panels.
My questions:
1. Is going with separate controllers a sensible way to go or would it be more efficient to go with a single controller?
2. Can I use 10-3 cable for the 25 foot run to the panels and share a common ground between panels and the two controllers?
3. Is there a combination switch / breaker you would recommend between controller and batteries?

Thanks so much!

Dave

I am in the process of replacing the original Beckson ports. Beckson recommends trimming the body of the ports so they are flush with the exterior trim ring in order to better facilitate drainage.
The original ports were not trimmed.
Has anyone ever gone to the trouble of cutting off the excess?

Dave

I made the mistake of leaving my tank too full at the end of the season. A combination of a couple hot days and the boat not level caused some fuel to expand out the vent and on to the bottom paint. I washed the area with a detergent when I was able but the stain is still visible. Petit says the paint should be stripped as the fuel may have gotten into the gelcoat.
Has anyone experienced this ?
Any suggestions are welcome!
- Dave

I just removed the two ports in the v berth which had been leaking. The port side will be straight ahead as there was just a small 1/8 inch manufacturing void in the plywood.
The starboard side is another matter, see pic. There is a 1/2 inch void around approx 2/3 of the opening.
The plywood is still in decent  shape but I am not sure whether to just fill the void with closed cell foam and use longer screws or try to glue the liner back on to the plywood.  It would take a number of clamps and some force to try to compress the liner. I'm not sure if the Hull is deformed from being on the hard or if that is the way it was manufactured...

Any thoughts or suggestions are appreciated.

Dave

I am in the process of re-bedding my chainplates and looking to order replacement hardware from McMaster-Carr. It looks like the slotted round head bolts are only available in 18-8 stainless and not 316.
Is 18-8 sufficient or does anyone else have a better source?

Thanks!

- Dave

I'm hoping to do some extended cruising in the Northeast this summer and would like to add about 200 watts of solar. I am looking for any advice from those of you who have added solar to your boats.
I have a house bank with 4 Trojan 105's, dedicated start battery, Balmar 110 alternator. Considering the Victron 75/15 MPPT controller.

Option 1: Permanently mount two hard panels over the bimini (add two bows above and across bimini supported by the existing side rails of frame) Similar to picture attached.
       Pros: panels are reasonably protected, set it and forget it, canvas can be removed easily
       Cons: each panel would be angled to the side slightly and not level, shading from the boom might be an issue, aesthetics (I love the classic look...)

Option 2: Mount a 100W hard panel on the existing cross bar of my davits and a 100W flexible panel on the aft part of the bimini.
      Pros: Davit panel could be rotated for better sun angle, perhaps less shading
      Cons: Davit panel at risk of me (and neighbors) exiting and entering slip, longevity of flexible panel compared to a rigid panel.

Any thoughts or suggestions?
Thanks, Dave

I have some light colored wear marks in numerous places on the sole (Pic below).
I took off a small panel from the v berth and it had a December 98 date printed on the back, obviously re-done by a PO.
I first tried some varnish remover but it did nothing. It has a very hard surface.
After sanding a small patch, I am beginning to think that this is synthetic.
Has anyone encountered this before?
Any thoughts for repair or am I looking at re doing the whole floor

I am looking to replace a clutch to the right of the companionway.  I see that Catalina Direct has the originals with the same bolt pattern.

Has anyone found a better clutch with the same bolt spacing?

What is the conventional wisdom? Go ahead and drill new holes or replace with the original model?

Thanks, Dave

I currently have three thru hulls in the head: sink drain, head intake & shower drain. I am considering, as many have done, connecting the head intake to the sink drain so I have the ability to flush with fresh water at the end of the day.
This would leave me with an unused thru Hull.
I am also considering installing a second and smaller bilge pump (whale IC 650) supposedly capable of draining down to about a third of an inch.
Rather than install a new thru Hull high in the transom, what are your thoughts about utilizing the extra thru Hull in the head? I would use an anti siphon loop and below water rated hose from the siphon loop to thru Hull. I know this means leaving a thru Hull open all the time...
Any advice?

Dave

I've been following the mast step thread with interest. Although that is not my problem, it would be nice to know that there is no water between the hull and keel.
I purchased Water Music last spring and do not know much of the history.
I have had a weeping keelbolt all summer and have a small (1 to 2") brown stain on the port side of the keel. I can repair the "smile" but don't know if there is any water left between the keel and hull.
I'm not anxious to drop the keel.
Has anyone given any thought to drilling a hole in the bilge, sucking out any water, and then dumping a bunch of epoxy in the void?

With all of the posts about the "smile" I'm wondering how many have actually dropped the keel and what did you find as far as keel bolt corrosion?
I've had constant weeping from the rear port bolt during my first summer with the boat. When the boat was hauled there was a short 1/2 inch long spot of rust along the port keel joint.
I'm trying to decide if I should repair the 1/2 inch on the outside and 5200 the bolt and retorque as many have suggested to me. I've read quite a bit and understand the theory of oxygen depleted corrosion but, who has actually dropped your keel and what did you find?
Thanks, Dave

What does everyone do to ready your mast for winter? Mine will be on an outside rack.
Halyards on or off?
Wiring?   Dialectric grease on ends?  Wrap in plastic?  Tape?
Furling Drum:  Wrap in plastic or leave open?
Anything else?

Thanks!

Dave

When I have my holding tank pumped out, there is liquid around the air vent connector at the top of the tank. It looks like it is between the tank and the 3" diameter (approx.) connector, not the hose. This was our first season with the boat and although we have only been pumped out a few times, it has happened each time.
1. I don't understand why there would be effluent pushed out the top of the tank while it was under suction and
2. Was this heat welded or can it be removed and resealed?

Thanks!  Dave

I found half of a washer in the cockpit after sailing yesterday. It looks to be about the diameter of the steering shaft. Before I pull the wheel off, does anyone remember what there should be on the shaft so I can be prepared.

Thanks!

It's time to go after some small chainplate leaks. I have read all of the forum posts, tech notes and Wiki's, many with conflicting info. I plan to use MaineSail's method to repot the bolt holes and use butyl tape rather than polysulfide.

My question - What is the best way to seal the plywood in the actual chainplate cutouts?

I have read that people simply brush on epoxy, some fill the opening (with tape on the headliner) and then drain it before it sets and some let the complete opening set and then cut out.

If I fill the entire opening with epoxy and let harden, I'm assuming the best way to open it up is to drill out the four corners and then use a saw to make the straight cuts.

Should the cutout be the exact same size as the original or could it be a tiny bit smaller?

Has anyone used some kind of a filler piece (plastic sleeve, etc,) slightly larger than the chainplate to fill the center of the hole and then fill around the outside with epoxy?

Thanks!  Dave

Water Music made the 4 day voyage to her new home from Kittery Maine to Noank CT last week. A beautiful trip and the boat behaved well. One item that gave us problems was the blocks for the jib. The line kept getting jammed in the Garhauer blocks.
I suspect the sheets are oversized causing the blocks to bend over and jam.  I believe the original specs called for 7/16 line. What does everyone use?

Thanks, Dave

Has anyone taken a Maxwell Freedom 800 apart? I went to replace the chain wheels after it chewed on my new rode... The top wheel came right off but I couldn't lift the bottom one off.
I looked at the replacement wheels today and the two halves are held together with small bolts. The boat is three hours away and I'm not sure if the small bolts are sheared off or if this was a design change.
Should I drop the motor assembly or is there is some trick I'm not seeing. The Maxwell manual is not much help...

I'm just about finished with refinishing my Bomar Cast Aluminum Salon hatch and it is time to move on to the next leak - the Port Jib Track.
I have Acorn nuts in my headliner and I was thinking I would just loosen the double nuts and pound the machine screws out, re-pot the holes and re-bed with butyl.
I read an earlier post about the difficulty of turning the machine screws and it mentioned an aluminum backing plate.
Were there different installation techniques or is the backing plate something I will face as well?
Thanks, Dave

I pulled off the main hatch yesterday which the PO had siliconed shut and is in pretty tough shape. I went to replace it with http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|6880|2290149|2290150&id=48247 which, after many reading many posts, I thought was correct. The original is a higher profile than the replacement, but also also has a smoother radius on the corners. It covers the opening but the corners are closer than I would like. 
Defender lists the Bomar model I purchased as N1070-10P. The only 16.5 square I can find on the Pompanette web site is the 2070-10AX https://www.pompanette.com/BigSummit/pomp.nsf/0/CD47BC7D6912276685257795008055D0?Open.
Is the 2070 the correct one for the 1986 #206?
I may bring it in tomorrow to look at reconditioning but the frame is pretty nasty and I would much prefer to replace it.
Thanks for your advice!

The PO installed a PSS shaft seal but did not install a vent hose. The plastic plug is still in place.
After reading a multitude of posts regarding vent hoses and looking at all the imperfect options on the C34, it occurred to me that some kind of an air vent (similar to a hydronic heating system) or inverted check valve might be ideal for this.
Has anyone considered this before?

Usable space on my Bimini is not as much as I had hoped (window on front & zipper for backstay through the center of back) so I am looking at two square panels - one on each side of the zipper.

I'm new to the solar scene. What would be better 2 50W panels @ 2.83 Amps & 17.64 V or two 64W panels @ 5.3A but 10V?
I have a four battery (Trojan  105's) house bank and am considering a Blue Solar (Victron) MPPT https://www.victronenergy.com/solar-charge-controllers/mppt7510. It has bluetooth capability so you can monitor battery state and solar charge status/history on a portable device rather than installing another display at the Nav station.

Would I need to wire the 10V panels in Series to bring the voltage up or use an MPPT with boost capability?

-sorry to display my ignorance....

I'm planning on installing a flexible solar panel on my Bimini. It seems the Solbian dealer is out of the longer Solbian panels and suggested Gioco. Does anyone have any experience with them?
I'd like to be in the neighborhood of 150 watts and could go with two smaller panels. Although two might be better for shading, it is more wiring, more velcro, controllers, etc.

I'm looking for a C34 and would appreciate any advice.
Would you go with a 1986 which has been extensively upgraded 4 years ago - new, larger yamaha engine, new sails, new fuel tank, new electronics including chart plotter and radar, new stays and running rigging complete with dingy for around 30K (only negative seems to be a few leaks to chase down-the hull and deck came back clear for moisture) or look for a MKII of the 2000 vintage around 70K?
The basic question: Do we spend the extra to enjoy a more modern hull and cabin while hoping not to get hammered with depreciation at the end (5 to 10 year mark).
What would you do?
Thanks for your help! - Dave