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Topics - kable

#1
I am going to attempt to replace my hot water tank hoses.

I am going to follow Stu's method of draining the coolant by un-clamping the hose coming off the fresh water pump at the elbow joint and catching in a bucket.
https://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,4518.msg26462.html#msg26462

But how do I drain the coolant in the hoses heading to the hot water tank?  They are fed by 3/8" hoses off the top of the fresh water pump and the thermostat and head down and connect to the long 5/8" hoses before heading under the floor pan.  So they are above the section being drained and I assume will be full.

How do I not make a mess? ;>)
#2
I just purchased Vetus k-75 motor mounts and need to raise my engine height by 10mm for a new transmission.

How does one raise their engine?
Are there metal shims you can purchase or do you have to just make them?

Does anyone know the metal type in the Vetus motor mounts?  I couldn't find a good web site or phone number to inquire directly.
#3
So for most transmission replacements you have to move the drive shaft back a bit 1" to 1.5".

How does one do this?

A couple years ago when replacing my cutlas bearing I ended up getting a new stainless drive shaft and sent the prop off to get everything tuned etc.  Then added new dripless and coupled against the transmission.

I don't think I can push the shaft back any further because it already looks like the gap between the strut and the prop is at or exceeding the 1" max.  So I probably need to cut it.  How does one cut this, in place, in the water?

I also need to potentially raise my engine up a bit.  How do you do that, I assume some type of shim, but what is that specifically?

Here is a pic of my current coupler.  I assume I don't have a 'flexible coupling'.  Should I get one?  I am worried about not getting everything all aligned after the install and it seems like this may help.

Thoughts?
#4
I am pulling the engine a bit to replace the transmission.
What other projects should I do since I am there?
- New sound insulation
- Motor mounts
- Deep clean
- Heat Riser ???
- HX ???
#5
Main Message Board / New Transmission
July 11, 2022, 02:31:08 PM
Lost my transmission (smelled smoke) at the start of my last week long vacation, raised the sails, cut the engine and returned back home in rough seas for about 2hrs.  Started the engine at the harbor entrance to motor the last bit to my slip, couldn't get her into gear.  Transmission was already hot/smoked and I left it in forward for the rough sail.  Had to sail into my slip (yikes).  Added oil and seems to work but I don't trust it now.  I want to replace it and other things while I am at it.

Based on all my googling of c34.org and the wider interwebs....

ZF10 vs ZF12
- Price - ZF10 is double the price ($2.5k vs $5k)
- Ratio - ZF12 is slightly different, will it matter? 2.14:1 vs 2.05:1
- Either way I have to push or cut the shaft to 1"-1.5" (separate forum thread)
- Output shaft drop - Have to raise the engine slightly on the ZF12

PRM 60D
- 1/4 of the price
- Ratio is the same
- Same issues w/ shortening the shaft and height
- Have to deal w/ the shifter being on the port and reversed at the helm
- I have heard mention of a 'noise/squeal' but really haven't found a lot of supporting information that didn't end up being contributed to other factors
- BUT I see a lot of positive references to Harbor Marine in Everett and they told me they quit carrying PRM because of quality issues

Techno-Drive TMC-40 (aka Twin-Disc MG-340)
- Recommended by Maine Sail - https://www.catalina36.org/comment/57268#comment-57268
- Price about $1.2k (1/2)
- Ratio - 2:1 - no change
- Shifter on port side
- Seeing multiple references to "trimming stringers"??
- Not clear on shaft modifications, but seems like it needs to be shortened

Anything to consider w/ regards to future proofing "re-powering" etc

Thoughts?
#6
Main Message Board / Sourcing a Damper Plate
July 03, 2022, 11:39:39 PM
There is so much great info on this board but the prices in the posts from 10+ years ago kill me compared to today.  I guess this inflation is real. :(
This is going to be the first of many transmission related posts...

I am going to be replacing my transmission so I need to purchase a new damper plate for my M-25XP
I really haven't found any good deals out there, anyone have some info?

Looking at Catalina Direct, I was surprised to see the aftermarket part more expensive than the OEM.  What would be the difference?
OEM - $430 https://www.catalinadirect.com/shop-by-boat/catalina-25/engine/damper-plate-oem-5411-m-12-m2-12-m-18-m-320-m-25-m-25xp/
After Market - $560 https://www.catalinadirect.com/shop-by-boat/catalina-25/engine/damper-plate-aftermarket-5411-m-12-m2-12-m-18-m-320-m-25-m-25xp/

#7
I have owned my boat for 5 years and have it dove spring and fall.  This year it was time to have it pulled to repaint the bottom.  Up here in Bellingham WA there really isn't anywhere you can do it yourself.  So based on calendar openings I picked a yard and had it hauled.  I want 2 coats of bottom paint and when my boat was surveyed they suggested replacing the cutlass bearing at my next haul out. 

So on the paint and prep, nothing I can do so I am at their mercy at $1224 which only includes some basic 'roughing up' the bottom.  I have some uneven paint so I am paying an addition 8hrs or sanding it all down (not stipping).  Then 2 gal of paint on top of that.  Also the strut and shaft zincs which I am not allowed to replace (their environmental rules).

I should start out by saying I am a computer guy and not very mechanically inclined.  Once taught, I can do things, but w/ out knowing the tricks or how things are put together I over think it and never start because I want it done right.  Also, I haven't really found 'my mechanic' yet.

Of course the yard wants to drop the rudder.  I talked to them about the struts pro tool and have seen many videos and posts on-line about using it.  They have the tool but say it never works.  They humored me and set it all up and I watched them and it did not work.  Now that I think about it, I wonder if the two pieces of metal that slide into the strut that push out, were even small enough to do it.  Videos I have seen, people barely tightened the bolts and it worked.  This one was super tightened and let sit for a bit and nothing.  Didn't see set screws and no layers of paint.

Anyhow, assuming it just doesn't work, the next logical step would be to drop the rudder and pull the shaft.

Now that we are pulling the shaft, other things come to mind. 

  • Should I replace my existing dripless shaft seal.  PO installed it in 1995 and it has a cloth wrapping around it (don't know anything about it)?
  • Should I replace the shaft and coupler w/ new SS?

How hard is it to drop my rudder.  I have used the C34 search engine and found many many articles, tech wiki, tech articles on replacing the cutlass bearing (different routes) but not a lot (that I understood) about the details of dropping the rudder.  What I do know is I need a shovel and it sounds scary about cutting off tops of things???

Now, I don't mind paying money and getting these things done but I feel I am being taken.  In addition to opinions/answers to the above questions, I would love an opinion on the amount of labor they are quoting me.  Of course they say it could be less but they really say it could be more as well.  We know which way that will go. 

  • 8hr - Remove rudder
  • 8hr - Remove shaft and coupler
  • 2hr - Replace cutlass bearing
  • $85 - Cutlass bearing ($55 catalina direct)
  • $850 new shaft (and I assume fit and face w/ new coupler) ($550 + 100$ catalina direct, $568 for everything from the prop shop they are getting it from)
  • $550 - New PSS shaft seal ($250-300 quick google search)
  • 1hr - Install new PSS shaft seal
  • 8hr - Install shaft, coupler, prop and adjust PSS
  • 8hr - Align engine
  • 2hr - Install rudder

Thoughts:

  • 8hrs to remove a shaft that I am throwing away.  Can't we just cut it, remove it coupler from transmission?
  • Can't I just slide (w/ grease and dinging the not yet painted rudder) the shaft in?  (I was told that putting the cutlass in the strut w/ the shaft in wasn't easy).  Now I just realized, they can do the cutlass either way and still slide past the rudder. Uggh.
  • 2hr to replace cutlass bearing w/ no shaft installed.  So I guess 2 hrs to cut it out?
  • Parts - OK, so they are inflating it, I guess that is what you get when someone else does it, but they should get wholesale prices
  • 8hr to put a brand new shaft, through the brand new cutlass, in through the log and through a brand new PSS, attaching to a brand new split coupler then fastened to the transmission  (why the additional hour for the PSS install?)
  • 8hr to align an engine.  Sure it may have been slightly out of alignment already, but ???
  • If we do have to remove the rudder, I guess it could be tough and who knows what I will run into and what they will want to up-sell me on.  2hr to put it back?

I am meeting a couple quick friend of a friend mechanics over the weekend.  If they can push the cutlass out, should I just have them do it?  I kinda was ready to pay for the nice upgrades (material) just feel like the amount of labor is out of line.

Uggh, feel so stranded.  Boat is out of the water and day fees are going to start kicking in.  Not sure what to do...  I just wanted bottom paint and the cutlass replaced so I can start enjoying the fresh breeze.

-kable
#8
So I close all my seacocks when I leave the boat, when moored at my home port.  So I haven't been too concerned with this.

A year ago, my son accidentally left the wet/dry switch in the wrong position and the bowl overflowed.  Did a bit of research and realized "the owner" is suppose to add an anti-siphon between the head's pump and the bowl by removing the factory supplied small white hose on the toilet.

Has anyone actually done this?  How did you do it without it looking terrible?

http://www.xylemflowcontrol.com/files/29090_29120-3000_43000-0905.pdf
Section 5.2 of the install manual.

Thanks,
Kable

(obviously the spring bug has bitten me and I am looking at all my boat work/learning ahead)
#9
Main Message Board / Sea Furl LD 915 - type of line?
March 10, 2018, 04:26:04 PM
I would like to replace the continuous furler line.  What type of line is it?

I see other helpful posts:
""end to end continuous diameter" splice with braid on braid line.

But what type of line do I need to purchase and learn/hire to have someone splice in place on my boat?

Thanks,
kable
#10
Main Message Board / Aqua muffler input hose
March 23, 2017, 09:21:11 PM
The hose going into my aqua muffler is pretty bad and leaking rust water (probably from internal structure wire or bad clamps).

Is this a special hose?
Is this difficult to install, does the exhaust thing on top have a bit of a flex to get this hose on?

Attached is someone else's pic that I circled just to be clear on what hose I need to replace.

Thanks,
kable
#11
Trying to plan a trip that involves some docking/rafting and need to make sure I am safe ;>)

Searching this great site I see that Catalina 34's wing keel design goal was a draft of 3' 10" but ended up being about 4' 3" (4' 5" w/ weight)
http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,1880.msg10020.html#msg10020
I don't like "abouts, estimates, etc." when it comes to calculating depths.
What do most people set as their minimum depth to play with?

Also, I question the rudder length.  Seems like people are saying it is 'about' the same as the wing keel but a bit shorter.
http://www.c34.org/faq-pages/faq-fin.html

My problem/question is the accuracy of this.
When I had my boat surveyed they pulled it out in a sling.  When putting the boat down into its supports, they had a block of wood on the ground for the wing keel.  Everyone was focused on the guys watching the distance between the wood and keel directing the crane that we barely noticed that the rudder hit the ground first.  Luckily I saw it and got them to quickly stop.  They added another block and everything was OK.
I took note of this and measured (now question the accuracy of my measurement) but the fact is the rudder hit the ground first.
Now, the ground surface was gravel/dirt, not exactly level and I suppose the exact location of the sling picking up the boat could tilt the boat 2"s or so and cause the rudder to hit first.

Just wanted to get your thoughts?

So my trip to Sucia Island, the charts at the dock show 1 fathom.  Tides during this trip do not drop below zero.  I have seen other sailboats docked there.

Would you do it?   :D

-kable

#12
Hi there, trying to help out a racing friend and his Olson 911 w/ a Universal M-18 and a Sherwood water pump.

The other day after a calm day of sailing we powered up the engine to head in and the water wasn't flowing.  We immediately turned off the engine and just sailed into the harbor.  The raw water pump was warm/hot, the immediately obvious things were checked, raw water filter and through hull valve.

The next day he had already removed the impeller before I had arrived so I wasn't able to test if it was spinning, if water was flowing through it and out the hose on the other side.  We used the zip tie trick and put a new impeller back in but couldn't get the retaining clip back on the shaft.  We just quickly put the cover back on to see if water flowed.  Started the engine and sure enough, everything worked.  So we took it back apart and figured out how to get the retaining clip back on and then re-installed.  Now it didn't work again???  Took it apart and we think the shaft wasn't quite aligned w/ some 'ring?' deeper in the pump that the shaft goes through.  We put it all back together again and everything worked.  I did notice a tiny bit of oil on the end of the shaft that meets the engine area.  Later that night I looked this up because it doesn't seem right.  We checked the oil to make sure water hadn't gotten in, seemed good.

Next time out, checked the oil, all is good.  Did this for a couple outings.

Last night, after the race, heading back in, the water quit flowing again.

If we knew what the problem was and it was the pump, he is ready for the Oberdorfer replacement.  But we really don't know what the problem is for sure.

I have seen references to self-priming and some say its an issue some don't.

I guess my question is the tiny bit of oil on the shaft, this doesn't seem right.  I have seen references to the "shaft seal burning up".  What would the symptoms be for this?  Any ideas?

Thanks,
kable
#13
My wife and I picked up our first Catalina 34 this past fall.  Been having a fun winter dreaming and getting her ready for spring.

So the PO replaced the raw water impeller as part of her fall maintenance just before putting the boat on the market.  It isn't leaking, but doesn't look good and my thoughts are around preventative maint.  I assume saltwater, in the past(?), is causing this discoloration?

Attaching picture, hope this works, because I don't see it in the preview.  :D

Thanks,
Kable

#14
Looking at a boat and overall it is in pretty good shape.  I am concerned regarding this table base and how it looks really corroded, was it flooded?  What would cause this?
Thanks,
Kable