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I would have liked a set of cutlass wrenches but I have a nice sharp thick piece of fiberglass. Was jammed way down in wires, it's the cut out from the panel. I'll use it for something! Also thanks again to Mainesail as always, used his recommendation for this charger.

I am going to do the rig soon, I have recently relocated to New Orleans so I'll be using a rigger I have never dealt with (tbd). There are lots of boats and even a Quantum loft here, so I am not worried about quality.  I am however wondering if anyone has a ballpark figure for a full standing rig replacement (parts+labor).  1986 keel stepped tall rig.  I haven't decided about the furler yet.  I still have the hood continuous and darn it I love that thick line.  But I guess it would make sense to get a new one.  So I guess what I'm looking for is cost of rig replacement for everything besides forestay and furler as that can vary a lot and the forestay is usually done with the furler.

When it is raining, my dodger is ok to keep the rain out with the hatch still open.  If I close the hatch quickly I get about a quart of water dumped on me and the galley floor.  Anyone else have this issue?

I'm looking at all the options and came across these from Go2marine.  Has anyone used them? Anyone have additional comments on using Vetus 75 in rear and 50 in front?  Thanks!

I have recently relocated the boat from NY to Louisiana and am in the process of installing reverse cycle air conditioning.  Does anyone have drawings of doors for an mki? Would like to use them while in the slip with the AC on.  I have time at the moment to build them, so I shall make that attempt instead of buying from a vendor.  Thank you.

This was the first year in my 7 year ownership where the boat stayed in the water for more than 8 months (it was just hauled after 16 months since last haul).  I was wet sanding the bottom and found maybe 50 blisters on the rudder, most are the size of a pencil eraser.  If I pick at them I get down to a hard white material below layers of paint and gray (barrier coat?).  I also have had the rusty rudder stain from the post for a while.  I know don't see any recent posts on the topic so thought I'd ask advice.  It sounds like Catalina does not do the recast anymore, so I will have to fix.  I also have some play in the rudder bushing.  I saw the 2 fixes as sliding plastic sheets down there or dropping rudder and waxing and filling with epoxy.  I may not be able to drop rudder at this yard. 
Thanks

I had saw the front engine mounts wobbling against the fiberglass the other day.  I torqued down the bolts a bit, but they didn't bite that well.  Checked today after a short motor sail and one of the bolts had jumped out into the space below the oil pan.  I'm a little surprised that these mounts aren't through Bolted or bolted into some kind of sleeeve.  I've seen some people taking about shoving toothpicks in the hole but that sounds pretty iffy to me.  Is this an epoxy drill and fill situation? I'm in the Bahamas at the moment so I don't mind a quick fix for the time being but I'd prefer to just do it correctly for another 10 years

Hi All,
I am not a 'real' member here but I have been working on my 34 for 5 years and just got back to Florida after taking the boat from NY to Eleuthera.  We did a mix of ICW and offshore inlet hops.  Bahamas gets damn windy in the winter too.  My 2c is bring a big dinghy, I brought a 10.5 Achilles with a 15 yammy 2 stroke.  On Garhauer 1.25" Daviits.  Solar on the David's and dodger.  New sails from rolly.  Amazing few months.  I run sams club GC2s x4.  TV, laptops no problem. Below deck autopilot was the best thing we did.  If anyone wants any advice or just needed a confidence boost to leave, the C34 can handle more than you can, cast the lines and go, you will not regret it!

I replaced my fuel sender and it works well, however upon removing the aft water tank i found that i have a wire going from the aft tab of the fuel tank to 'nowhere'.  I connected a new wire to that tab from the sender upon install, but did not question the wire that went from that tab aft.  I pulled it out and its just bare.  I am using Noah's pic here to show it, where does that normally terminate?

Hi All- The hinges on the frame of my opening ports in the Galley and Head have cracked.  The ports are sealed into the plexiglass with black sealant.  I assume this is Dow 795 or similar, as was in the larger fixed port I rebedded last year.  That port came out pretty easily with a razor blade.  These opening ports seem to be more of a chore, the razor wouldn't slice through.  Any ideas for removing them without cracking the plexi?  I have been using some 'Marine Formula' 5200 remover on the becksons in the main salon as I am rebedding those as well, I may try that in the screw holes of these ports.  I haven't seen a post of anyone doing this removal job.  I have the new 'gray enterprises' ports on order, should be here next week or so.