Topics

I am installing a portable 138W flexible solar panel on my boat. The purpose would be to only use when at anchor. I would bring it on deck, (plug it in to an outlet), and lash it to my dodger, foredeck or my canvas sun awning. I do not have a Bimini. The intent is to add enough power to take the edge off, to limit me having to run my engine as often or as long to charge my four T105 6V batteries. Currently, I get 2-3 days on the hook before I need to run the engine.

Has anyone gone this route before? I want to install a plug to disconnect the panel so I have a cosmetically clean install, without a bunch of exposed wires. The MPPT controller, fuse and on/off swith would be permanently install under the Starboard settee outboard of the water tank with wire run up to the companionway area. A 15ft. cord on my panel, should would allow me to move panel around. Don't know what kind of plug or where to put it. Considering on the teak bulkhead on the Starboard side just inside the companionway above the top step of ladder near the teak grab rail, or somewhere in the cockpit or cabin top under the dodger. Any recommendations or feedback would be greatly appreciated.

https://open.substack.com/pub/loosecannon/p/coast-guard-proposes-eliminating?r=1mwqoj&utm_medium=ios

Has anyone (successfully) replaced the lens and gasket on their Lewmar rollstop model trapezoidal foredeck hatch. My hatch was not leaking but the lens was terribly crazed. I opted to buy the "parts" and do it myself . Firstly, because I didn't want to wait the 6-week lead time quoted to me by Select Plastics/Hatch Masters AND I thought "what the heck, it can't be that hard for a savvy boat worker guy like me." WRONG!  I am oly doing the hatch lid. I can't seen to get the gasket to conform all the way flush into the corner radius on the hatch lid. Anyone have any tips/tricks for dealing with this particular hatch model? So far I have been really fighting it having installed it once, with visual gaps in gasket corners—after seated and bedded with Dow 795. It passed the SoCa historic 4.5 inch in 3-days rain test last week, not leaking. But it was covered with a Sunbrella hatch cover. Once I removed cover a did the aggressive hose test, it leaked. So I removed it and started over. Now on round two. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thank goodness we have sailboats and not the boat pictured below. Don't know about rest of the country, but fuel price sticker shock has finally hit home for me here in Calif. I filled up my wife's beloved 2014 A5 Audi convertible today (very fun to drive, but unfortunately takes premium gas) —and paid $7.25 per gl. at our local Chevron station!!! Last month on my 2-week cruise to Catalina I topped-off my boat with 7 gallons of diesel, and even at $6.00 per, at the tourist fuel dock, it didn't hurt too much. Can't imagine how the big gas outboard guys do it?!

Curious: has anyone successfully hove to in our fin keel boats?

Saw this article today. Sad...
https://www.news4jax.com/news/local/2022/11/17/2-people-cat-taken-to-safety-after-dramatic-rescue-from-sailboat-stranded-at-jetties/

After the rigger modified the wrap-stop fitting at the top of my Profurl genoa furler, to allow the top swivel of the spinnaker furler to "work", more freely, I think I finally have my Selden GX-10 furler and retractable bow sprit sorted and working. I had moved it to low on my list, after an earlier embarrassing deployment failure in my slip (thankfully no damage). And then an annoying months delay recovering from another hip surgery. However, this week, I sailed with a couple of fellow "old salts" for crew and put the system through its (and our paces) and it WORKS! Made several jibes and roll-ins and outs. Albeit, not as easy-peasy smooth as the promo video, but with practice and fine-tuning, it should be good! Soon, i will attempt to single-handing it—which was/is my original goal justifying purchase. That, and of course, the photo op!   Single-handed, I may roll-up to jibe, depending how brave I feel.  I will post a follow-up when I get there.

For sale new pump assembly in box had as spare. No longer need. $50 + shipping
—SOLD—

I have recently switched to an all-chain 5/16 anchor rode to give me more stacking room in my anchor locker. I am using a Maxwell VW10-8 windlass. I do have a remote that includes a rode counter, but I decided to also paint my chain, a "belt and suspenders " approach. My marking scheme follows.
Orange= 9ft. (at windlass) indicates anchor at waterline
All other markings are at waterline:
Red = 25 ft.
White = 50 ft.
Blue = 75 ft.
Green = 100 ft.
Red/Green = 125 ft.
White/Green 150 ft.
Blue/Green 175 ft.
Orange= 190 ft. (Bitter end warning for 200 ft. chain rode)
I utilized a 5-step process for painting and did the work in my daughter's driveway today, while she was out of town.
I used Ospho (phosphoric acid) for etching, Rustoleum Universal Bonding Primer (galvanize-friendly), and Rustoleum enamel spray gloss for topcoat. I also used the "cardboard box spray booth" trick (I found on the Web), which worked well.
I will report back how this paint holds up.

My 15-yr. old sailing companion, Milo, passed away today... Best dog in the world!

It is time to replace the exhaust riser/elbow on my 25XP, and I am currently not able to do the job myself. Does anyone have have a San Diego-area mechanic they would recommend?

West Marine has a BOGO (buy one get one free) deal now for Lewmar winches. I would like to replace my cabin top non-self-tailer with a self-tailer. However, I don't need a pair. Anyone want to split the purchase with me?
https://www.westmarine.com/buy/lewmar--ocean-30-chrome-self-tailing-2-speed-winch--174789

Getting ready to haul out for "every-three-year" bottom job. This time I plan to change cockpit drain hoses. I noticed cracks in hoses when redoing autopilot bracket and replacing exhaust hose last year, but I didn't want to risk trying to replace them while in the water incase through-hulls cracked while changing hoses. So now that I will be on the hard, I will get hoses replaced and perhaps through-hulls as well. In preparation for this I had to remove the aft water tank (again), and remove autopilot ram and bracket (again). Fortunately, I redesigned the new autopilot bracket tower for "easy removal" to provide aft access. Still a PIA.

And... since I had all open... I filled the hidden bilge pockets in front of and and behind the skeg with expanding closed cell urethane foam topped with epoxy resin and two coats of Bilgecoat paint. Looks good and boat is now ready for yard haulout on Monday.

THEN... when I was leaving the boat today, all ready for Monday's haul-out, I did one of my most boneheaded boat mistakes. I decided to top off the starboard water tank to make sure I had water while in the boatyard. I got distracted by "things" while filling the tank and I started putting water in the aft water tank deck fill by mistake. Yes, that is the same aft tank that is REMOVED and now being temporarily stored on its end in the head compartment. I only let flow about 4-5 gallons before I realized my mistake.  Fortunately, the deck fill hose was angled such that it didn't dump water on my "new" fridge compressor, or much on the fresh bilge paint that I did this morning. Also , luckily, the Bilgecoat paint was dry to the touch and water just rolled past it.  I had previously removed everything from the aft cabin (cushions, etc.) before I started working there this week, so the water just pooled on the gelcoat bunk pan and into the engine bilge (which is "always" clean and dry, so no oily mix). Sponge, towels and rags took care of it. Whew!!! Dumb!
What was your latest boneheaded boat mistake??? They say confession is good for the soul


Sent from my iPhone

I am hauling out in two weeks for my every three years bottom job and misc. maintenance/repairs. The big PIA job this year is to replace the five thru-hulls located on the transom and under the stern counter (two bilge pumps on stern and two cockpit drains and the engine exhaust under counter). They are all original nylon and I fear headed for failure. I did change the exhaust hose this year with no issues but didn't want to attempt the others hose in the water as I feared they might break. I did buy the hose for cockpit drains at the same time as exhaust hose, as it is the same size/type hose. Some years ago I replaced my nylon anchor locker drain which crumbled. It is really tight back there on the sugar scoop boats, so it won't be fun. I will have to remove water tank (again!), plus my autopilot ram, blah, blah...after locker propane shelf, (be there done that).

Has anyone with a 1990-ish sugar scoop boat changed these out? Any tips would be appreciated. I probably will remove all "obstacles" then have the boatyard climb back there to change them, while I "supervise". Then I will reassemble the boat all back to "sailable". I will probably go with nylon fittings again but might see if glass reenforced fittings are available. There are no valves involved. I will post how it goes when complete.

Looking for advice: technique/procedures and tips and tricks for solo / single-handed anchoring. What's your method? Do you drop stopped or in reverse? Drop quick or slowly pay out? How do you keep boat straight when backing? Are you at the bow most of the time??? Running back and forth??? Difference in dropping and retrieval with windlass vs no windlass?  Folks sharing stories/methods on this topic would certainly be helpful (for me anyway).

Near-new ATN brand set-up for asymmetrical spinnaker. $300 for both 45ft. sock and tacker.

It has come to my attention that some entity has been sending fake emails soliciting/requesting "gift card donations to benefit Covid-19 victims and aid workers " — utilizing my name and title as the Commodore of the C34 Int. Assoc. These emails are fake, and not from me, nor the C34 International Association.  Please delete them and do not respond to them. We are taking appropriate steps to investigate and stop these.
Thx-Noah Rosenblatt

Solo-sailing 3-miles offshore; a new mainsail, an 11-knot breeze, a close reach, and smooth water. Doesn't get much better!😎

Here is an interesting primer on AIS buoys, etc.
https://cruisingodyssey.com/2021/02/07/how-to-navigate-with-new-ais-chart-symbols/

https://nauticalcharts.noaa.gov/publications/portrayal-of-ais-aids-to-navigation.html

Stu's comment about his PO putting a poorly located eye bolts in the floor of the cockpit, prompted this new thread. I installed four strong Wichard folding pad eyes in my cockpit to be used as attachment points for safety tethers.

Can't beat it!

Among my many things to be thankful for: sunny California weather, blue tape and new varnish! Happy Thanksgiving to all!

I have all the aft spaces open/cleared with bulkheads and water tank removed. While doing repairs on my below deck autopilot (a story for another day) I discovered my exhaust hose is cracking and needs to be replaced. No leaks yet. But I will do it now while "in there". Does it make sense to replace my exhaust elbow and riser at the same time? Riser and elbow are probably original, but still "working" with no leaks. However, I know they will fail sooner than later. Any reason to preemptively do them now at same time as hose? Opinions requested, please! Due to virus restrictions I am planning to do this work solo. At least that's my plan. Also, I have a big Racor 500 turbine fuel filter under the head sink that will need to be removed to get access through there. Joy!

Just finished a 3-day solo sail to Mission Bay where I tried 5 times to get my 35 lb Manson Supreme anchor to set. No go. It would not bite. Tried in several spots in 12 ft to 21 ft of water.  Ended up using my back-up Danforth, In 21 ft. which set on the first try. Anyone experience this issue in Mission Bay mud or elsewhere in mud with Manson Supreme? Both anchors and chain came-up clean with no wash down needed, so it appears the bottom was not sticky.

Staying on the boat tonight and doing a little "clean-up". Not telling if this is before or after...

Not a Garmin user myself, but this hack is worth noting.
https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.wired.com/story/garmin-outage-ransomware-attack-workouts-aviation/amp

When legacy equipment dies, finding a replacement can be a pain. My original Nicro/Marinco Day/Night solar vent/fan finally died. Not a battery issue, it's the motor, which is in sealed case and not repairable. Unfortunately, the original design has been discontinued. I opted to buy the new "replacement" Marinco model for ($160 on Amazon) despite the so-so reviews. However, the Marinco replacement(s) did not fit my boat. They make two sizes. The (4 in.)  model will fit the hole in the coachroof but the solar panel "fan dome" is too large in diameter (9+ in.) to fit on to the coachroof and clear the handrail. So not useable. The smaller model (3 in.) fits the cabin-top space, but the hole in the deck was too large to support the mounting flange. Nothing is easy!
I solved the problem (for me anyway) by using the smaller (3in.) model and filling-in the hole in the coachroof with thickened epoxy, making it 1-inch smaller in diameter to accept the smaller flange mount. I used a 3 in. plastic paint bucket. waxed-it-up and taped into the hole as a mold to pack epoxy around. I removed bucket when dry—took some chiseling and sanding, but came out with a clean smaller hole to mount flange. Made a teakwood ring to finish the hole underside.
The new model vent is a complete redesign: bigger solar panel with a switch on the motor to vent either in or out, and they added a very weak LED light with a switch. The verdict is still out as whether this redesign makes it any better than the old one. It seems to blow less air and motor is still sealed and not repairable if breaks. Will see how long it lasts. Time marches on.

As a Corona Virus isolation project, I just spiffed-up my accessible storage On my MK I, adding three drawers to my V-berth. I used one 18 in. SeaTeak brand drawer face for the lower drawer and two 15 in. ones for the port and starboard ones. Unfortunately, there is some variation in the styles, (didn't find out until delivered), with one handle routed-out pull centered and the other two routed 1/3 distance up. Oh well, looks OK for my criteria. The support structure/rail/guides I made out of birch (epoxy coated) and the drawer boxes are birch plywood (from Drawer Depot online). Even with some pre-made parts it was a challenge for my Jr. High School level woodworking skills. But all looks like it belongs, works well and is rock solid. BTW- to match the finish of my 30-year-old teak I used Minwax "Gunstock" color stain and Watco teak oil.

Unfortunately, our county health dept. just tightened their social distancing campaign, banning all recreational use of Public waterways, bays and beaches: including boating, water sports, and swimming. As of now the marinas are still open, so we can get to our boats to work on them or just chill-out, but are not allowed to cast-off the lines. Time to varnish!

I finally got around to following through on a good tip that has been discussed on our website for years—installing a cleat on the mast for my mainsail. This cam cleat allows me to quickly jump/raise the main  at the mast while sailing solo—with no friction—then stop the halyard in the cam cleat, then casually go aft to to the cockpit to take up slack. When slack is pulled out of halyard and it goes taught, it pops out of cleat and I then secure it with the cabin top clutch as usual and clean up the tail.

I took the leap this weekend and removed my fixed portlights. They were crazed, but not leaking but, couldn't help myself—the crazing just offended me—so I opted to replace them. New ones are being made at a local plastics shop, using old ones as a pattern. I have screws in mine which were easily removed and I will reuse them for install. The two forward windows came out in one piece. But not the aft ones. Due to a solid coating of sealant under them at the aft pillars (by the head) the aft ones snapped into multiply pieces. The first one rear one I removed resulted a big piece falling in the drink and the pillar section chiseled into small chucks. The second one I removed more carefully, resulting in  four intact pieces that I seamlessly pieced back together to use a suitable pattern. Both sides are symmetrical including the hole pattern fro the screws.
Now my question:
I have studied the Catalina instructions that call for 3/8-1/2 x 1/8 thick foam spacer every 6-8 inches to hold the window slightly off the fiberglass to prevent the 795 sealant from completely squeeze out when the window is pressed into place. BUT, doesn't that act as a barrier and eliminate any sealant from contacting/bonding the acrylic to the fiberglass where each foam spacer is located? Am I missing something here? When I removed the old windows, interestingly, despite what the Catalina shop drawing shows, there were no visible spacers underneath that I could see? Debating whether to use spacers or not? Thoughts please?

I had a couple of gallons or so of seawater in the low point of the bilge the other day AFTER an outing and have checked "everything" for leaks! None!  I usually have a dry bilge. Nothing is/was wet aft or under the engine. Not from stuffing box, etc. I suspect that my electric bilge pump hose (being low to the water positioned on the edge of the sugar scoop) is back-flowing seawater into the bilge when the stern gets buried. Has anyone with a 1990-vintage sugar scoop transom boat experienced this issue? I will try and plug/cork/bung the bilge pump thru-hull outlet then deliberately bury the stern by using high RPMs or backing, etc. next sail to see if it may be the cause.

I promised Paul, "Cool Change" that I would post some photos of the intake hose end of my manual bilge pump. Fitting came with the boat done by a PO. Elbow into hose and stainer threads on.

I have an old-style Maxwell windlass breaker panel and the red "on" light is not working. Does anyone know how to remove/change the lightbulb? From front or back or???I don't want to willy nilly start prying on plastic I can't replace...

Having an issue with my Smart Gauge. Have two Error messages displayed: "04" and "Lo". Regardless of what happened to cause this, I can't figure out how to clear errors, without doing a factory reset—which involves removing Smart Gauge from my panel, disconnecting power to it and reprogramming. Will not display SOC with error message "uncleared". Bad/complicated instruction manual (for me anyway). My ProNautic 1240 P Battery charger seems fine and voltages displayed on my distribution panel's multimeter and Smart Gauge displays seem OK. Although the two slightly differ.  I am going to test batts cells with a hydrometer later this week before I do anything, but doubt it is a battery cell issue. Errors still on display for 4 days now. Does anyone have a suggestion before I call Balmer tech support?

https://www.manitoulin.ca/hungry-black-bear-boards-four-boats-over-three-days/

Following up on my comment from thread posted on companionway squeaking http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,9563.0.html:
and my recommendation that those who bought and installed plastic glide strips under their hatch runner/track—should definitely fasten them down. Mine got displaced somehow and got sucked up inside the hatch under the cover and was a pain in the ass to remove and remedy. To retrieve the slide and restore to "normal", my fix was:
1. removed wood plugs/bungs from after trim of hatch encloisure
2. unscrew and remove trim
3. dig around and capture slide with 16 inch-long lock forceps/pliers (Green Giant-sized roach clip) from Harbor Freight
4. Drill and counter sink track slightly off center line to take #8 flat head screws. Drilled countersink outside the the boat as the  countersink bit would hit the hatch rails. I used a long 1/8 extension bit to pilot through countersink hole to drill into fiberglas track to pilot for screws.
5. Reinstalled trim with new wood plugs. Had to redrill for larger plugs as the old plugs were glued and holes were a bit "rough" after removing plugs with a chisel.  Next step. revarnish.

Maybe a good deal for anyone looking to install or replace A/C? Probably need to act quickly.

https://www.defender.com/defender1st.jsp?trk_msg=C0T2C6BM5E6K946LP8S3GDOP5C&trk_contact=K68MOPOU4JARFK2BNPHROHK5L4&trk_sid=8I9KHVS0A4VQIC61UCKD22KUJ0&utm_source=Listrak&utm_medium=Email&utm_term=https%3a%2f%2fwww.defender.com%2fdefender1st.jsp&utm_campaign=Defender+1st+-+Deal+Of+The+Week!

Ok, I admit upfront I am being lazy. Yesterday, after I finished cutting some Hypervent material for under the V-Berth cushions, I dove into the hole under the bunks to the stemhead "inspecting" things. The chain locker thru-hull fitting was in great shape, but I noticed the drain hose was a bit funky, sticky and old—so I will replace it. Unfortunately, I didn't remove the hose at the time when I was crunched up in the bow. Dang! With the hopes of saving my old bones another roundtrip bow dive, just to measure, does anyone know the ID dimension of the drain hose? Next time I go up there I want a new hose in hand.

Looks fine to me so far.
Thx Dave

Joys of a 1990 boat...wet cushions in the aft cabin (centerline). Chased it down (I thought!) to leaking pedestal angle guard feet. Thought I  "fixed" it a few weeks ago, by rebedded feet with butyl tape, but...this weekend washed boat again and dang, wet aft cushions AGAIN. On the search for source AGAIN! Hard to do solo. Time to callout my hose volunteers, AGAIN, while surveying down below for drips. Did I say... I love my boat?!

https://youtu.be/zIwwr__VftU
Break out the scuba gear

https://www.navytimes.com/breaking-news/2017/11/01/navy-crews-at-fault-in-fatal-collisions-investigations-find/

Here's a sweet little fixer-upper that may appeal to you Chesapeake sailors.
https://www.chesapeakebaymagazine.com/baybulletin/2017/7/31/a-real-fixer-upper-144-year-old-bay-lighthouse-for-sale

Today's project was first time lubing my winches. All went well, but they really needed it with lots of the P.O.'s old grease turned to hard wax-like consistency. However, in only one of my winches (pictured) the plastic parts have oxidized to a gray pitted surface. After this photo, I treated with 3O3 protectant and it darkened up, but I would like to replace these parts, eventually. Anyone have a source they recommend?

Happy Fathers Day...From frustrated head down in aft cabin trying to figure out how to re-mount my heat exchanger so I can check transmission oil. I have the SeaKamp 3in. replacement, which was installed last year using the provided mounting saddle/hose clamp arrangement bolted to engine. Worked fine EXCEPT I cannot remove transmission dip stick. So FINALLY decided to "fix". Thought I could just loosen bolts and raise it up a bit but mounting tangs are too short. Then discovered by prying it up, that even if I had longer slotted tangs on the saddle mount, when I pry it up all the way until it hits the exhaust flange (a big no-no), it still doesn't give enough clearance to remove dip stick. In photo you can see HX pried up with hammer handle and the threaded dipstick extended, but still not removable. What am I missing? Has anyone successfully used this SeaKamp replacement and its mounting bracket? I am considering making a new extended "L" bracket that would bring HX 3+ inches aft so transmission dip stick pulls out in front of it.  Am I crazy, is there a better way?

Please educate me. Does anyone know the history/what year fixed ports were added to the hull/topsides? Has anyone retrofitted/added them as a modification? I've been toying with adding a fixed portlight to the aft cabin, but having trouble wrapping my head around the aesthetics of ending up with a non-symmetrical look, with adding a portlight to only the starboard side aft. It looks like Dave Spencer's Mk1.5, may have topside ports in different positions on both the port and starboard, but it may be a depth of field distortion in his photos (great sailing pic close reaching with spinnaker) he posted on the "buffing paint" thread today.

I finally found the perfect marine grade bronze hinges to do the "Ron Hill" lift-up engine access step/hatch modification.  I have always shied away from doing this, not wanting to use piano hinge or hinges that I would have to unscrew or drive out the hinge pins on in order to remove the hatch if need.  These hinges have a spring loaded hinge pin so you just pull both pins and hinge "releases" and comes apart with hinge body with the pins still in place captured in the hinge body. Not cheap hardware but effective. Pease disregard my mismatched oval head and flat head screws, I used what I had from my stash.

Adding a whisker pole set-up to my boat has moved-up to high on my to-do list. Any comments on good ones/or bad ones to avoid, would be greatly appreciated. I am starting from scratch, so far it's blank slate with no hardware mounted either on mast or deck. Any experience with the newer (expensive) carbon or half carbon poles?

Not shilling for WM but...just in case anyone was dreaming about winches...it's a short time window/but sounds like good deal.