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Topics - Hugh17

#1
Main Message Board / Mainsheet Magazine
November 13, 2020, 02:52:03 AM
Two questions about the Mainsheet magazine. Is anyone having issues with getting the password for download to work on the Winter 2020 issue? Next, is there an option for electronic only receiving of the magazine.

Thanks much!
#2
Main Message Board / Winch size for spinnaker halyard
September 17, 2019, 01:12:03 PM
I want to install a winch on the left side of the mast to use for the spinnaker halyard for raising the dinghy to store on the foredeck. Per Lewmar's chart the #16 is more than sufficient for the spinnaker halyard. What size winch have other C34 owners installed for this purpose?

https://www.lewmar.com/Winch-Selection-Guide
#3
I've read several post about using an Alternator Belt Tensioner with links for these tool from various sources. Every review I've read states that the T shaped end is prone to breaking off and would have to be welded back on if it breaks. I'm not opposed to spending $20 or so on a one purpose tool, but I have no desire to do so if it's likely to break the first time I use it.

I've come up with a homemade belt tensioner that is not going to break and it cost me $5.25 to make. Your cost may vary a little depending on location and retailer.

Using a 3/8"x8" galvanized turnbuckle, and a little modification on a grinder this little tool is a jewel. The 3/8" bolt is plenty strong enough to spread or expand the distance between the V belt pulleys on the engine and the alternator. 

I found that the belt can be tensioned sufficiently by hand turning without using a wrench or other tool to adjust the turnbuckle.  Link to the turnbuckle used is https://www.acehardware.com/departments/hardware/chain-and-rope/rope-and-chain-accessories/51623

The minimum distance between the pulleys is about 7-1/2" on my spare M25XP using a #7395 belt measuring 3/8"x40-1/8". Your distance may be slightly larger if you are using the #7400 belt that measures 13/32"x40-5/8". I've used both size belts on the engine in my boat, which is a M25, depending on the pulley size of the alternator and stretch of the belt. As you are aware there is very little room to tighten the belt.

I hope this is of use to others. Pictures are below.

#4
I want to install a 3" Heat Exchanger on my Universal M25 where I currently have a 2" Heat Exchanger. The problem is that the mounting bracket for the 2" HX is too high for the 3" HX to fit under the exhaust fitting, and I cannot shift the 3" HX far enough away from the exhaust fitting to work.

Has anyone fabricated or know if an after marker Heat Exchanger bracket is available for mounting a 3" HX on a Universal M25 engine? Pictured below is the mounting bracket for a 3" HX off a M25XP on the left and the mounting bracket a 2" HX off my M25 on the right. Also pictured is the back of the engine where the 2" mounting bracket attaches using 2 bolts from the bellhousing.

The 2" mounting bracket bolts to the bell housing on the M25 through the vertical bends of the bracket. The 3" mounting bracket attaches with 2 bolts into the top of the bellhousing. My M25 does not have bolt holes in the bellhousing.

I envision the remedy for this problem to be a modified mounting bracket with mounting bolts the same as the bracket for the 2" HX but to extend back and lower in order to accommodate the 3" HX. I've search the previous posts about this and can't find any specific information about a modified mounting bracket.

I appreciate the help in advance.

#5
Main Message Board / M25 Coolant Hose Elbows
May 06, 2019, 07:37:34 AM
Does anyone have a good source for the 90 degree metal elbow fitting used to join the 7/8" hose just above the oil filter? See attached photo in the circle. While I'm asking, I'm also looking for the 90 degree rubber hose coming off the water pump. See attached photo indicated by the arrow.
#6
I was recently gifted a pair of Atkins & Hoyle 1900 Dinghy Davits in exchange for some work I did on a friend's boat. I've searched the archives here and see where one members has installed these davits on a MKII, but I can't find any reference to installing them on a MKI. I'm in the early part of the research to see if I can use these davits and if so what are the options for installation.

Unfortunately https://www.atkinshoyle.com/ appears to be down this morning so I'll post a picture of the davits laying in my truck. Does anyone have experience using this model davits on a MKI?

https://share.icloud.com/photos/0L9u_mzrjbOJJ-AEJQtO4h-vw
#7
Main Message Board / Galley Floor Option
February 18, 2019, 03:35:05 AM
Today's fiberglass backed vinyl floors offers a much improved option for laying vinyl floor covering. In decades past, vinyl flooring was backed with felt which meant the flooring would quickly curl upward making loose-laying installation undesirable. Another option was shrinking type vinyl which meant that perimeter adhering was required to keep the vinyl from contracting away from the walls and leaving an ugly gap. But, with the latest generation of fiberglass backed products, dimensional stability has been achieved so laying vinyl flooring is much like laying a rug.

My MK1 #299 is beautiful inside but dark. I've removed the teak & holly flooring from the galley and replaced with a nice non-patterned fiberglass backed vinyl. The finish and color appears to be a fine grained marble and it really adds a nice contrast to the darker floors and wood panels in the boat. I used the teak & holly panels for a template which provides for an almost perfect fit. The slight recessed area for the wooden teak & holly flooring keeps the vinyl from slipping and self trims the edges.

The new flooring can be cleaned in place or easily removed and cleaned on the dock if preferred. I usually remove the vinyl flooring when working on the engine just to protect it from nasty oil or grease spills. Of course I've saved the original teak & holly flooring to reinstall someday if preferred.
#8
Main Message Board / Replacement Circuit Breakers
January 15, 2019, 02:56:04 PM
I need replacement 20 amp circuit breakers E-T-A models 45-700-SIO-DD and found this old post below. I've sent a message to Allied as suggested in the old post. Has anyone replaced these circuit breakers and know if this is still a good source? Also, is there another circuit breaker that will work in the panel?

"In a previous post I made reference to replacements for the push/push thermal circuit breakers [ E-T-A models 45-700-SIO-DD ] found in all of the older C34 electrical panels. Having now had to deal with that subject in more detail   :( I can refine that information a little.

For all of the thermal E-T-A circuit breakers of 25 amps and less, the current root part number is 2-5700-iG1-K10-DD, and they are available from Digikey [ www.digikey.com ] or Allied Electronics [ www.alliedelec.com ]. All versions run about $18 plus shipping.

Since the current E-T-A series no longer includes a 30 amp variant, a usable replacement that will fit the existing hole, has screw terminals, but does not include the push/push function ( but can still be turned OFF by pulling the shaft outward ) is Tyco Electronics ( P&B to those who remember...) W23 series. The 30 amp version part number is W23-X1A1G-30 and is available from Allied Electronics or Mouser Electronics [ www.mouser.com ]. This part is about $20 plus shipping.
Regards, John"

#9
I've plowed through most of the message threads and TechWiki posts on replacing the fixed cabin windows but what I haven't found is a mention of the exact shade of smoked Plexiglas. Does anyone know? If necessary I can order some samples and try to match as close as possible.
#10
Main Message Board / GUEST 10 amp Dual Bank Charger
August 13, 2018, 01:53:32 PM
It’s time to replace my SeaRay charger that came with my 1987 MK1 C34. I just replaced the batteries with Series 31 wet cell 115 amp hour batteries. The old SeaRay is still charging good but I have no idea whether this old charger is “smart” or not.

I want a charger that will charge in multiple stages, automatically maintain and condition the batteries as needed. I also don’t want to break the bank. What are thoughts on the GUEST 5 amp 2 bank charger? This charger is also available in a 10 amp 2 bank capacity.
#11
I've replaced my holding tank and all hoses except the vent hose and pump out hose. Both these hoses connect to either a stanchion or deck fitting. I assume the hoses are clamped to these fittings johnson st under the deck. Are these clamps/fittings accessible from inside the boat? How difficult are they to replace?
#12
Main Message Board / Cockpit Courtesy Light
March 21, 2018, 07:56:08 AM
I've searched through similar subjects on the message board and can't find an answer for replacing the bulb or cockpit courtesy light. The switch for this light is under the instrument panel on the MKI. I also can't find any info on this light on the Catalina Direct web site. Ideally, I'd like to replace the bulb and/or fixture with a LED bulb and/or fixture. What have others done?
#13
I have the Universal M25 with the 2" Heat Exchanger. I've had the Heat Exchanger off for professional cleaning as well as increasing the size of the discharge fitting for the raw water. I've had repeated issues with blockages inside this fitting. It's easily resolved by breaking the blockage with a screwdriver and then blowing through the HX through the hose from the raw water pump. My question is WHY IS BLOCKAGE OCCURRING AT THIS FITTING?
#14
Main Message Board / Cockpit Enclosure
December 30, 2017, 12:19:11 AM
I've searched through old messages and found a few threads on cockpit enclosures, but few pictures. I'm considering a full enclosure in the near future since I've recently purchased a Sailrite sewing machine. I already have a Bimini and Dodger with a connecting panel, so essentially I'll have to make side panels.

My boat is the MKI and I'm interested in seeing pictures of anyone's cockpit enclosures as well as comments and advice on do/don't.

Thanks,
James
#15
There are several posts on replacing Adler Barbour refrigeration in the MK1, but I thought it best to start a new thread on my questions.

My apparently original Adler Barbour is working, but not well. I've spent a couple hundred dollars several times over the years, and don't think it's worth throwing more money at for repairs. One refrigeration guy is advising that I relocate the Condensor/compressor from the Lazarette hatch since it gets so hot in there.

Assuming I replace with a new unit and relocate the Condenser/compressor:

OPTIONS I'M CONSIDERING
V Berth - Air or water cooled? I already have a seacock there that's not being used. Thoughts?

Under the range - I would loose the shelf as a storage for pots and pans, but I like the idea of the Condensor/compressor being in the climatized cabin. This would be good when docked with the AC going, but not so good if at anchor. Thoughts? I know other owners have done this. Any suggestions on models that will work?

OPTIONS I'M NOT CONSIDERING
Under the settee - I only have one bench that is storage. And really don't want to lose it.

I look forward to the feedback.

James
#16
Main Message Board / Replacing CNG GSI Range
May 13, 2017, 05:41:40 PM
[img]I want to replace my origanal GSI Range with a butane/LP Range. I'm sure others have already done this. What brand/model have you used? Would prefer not to have to make any modifications to the cabinets.
#17
I need to replace my refrigeration system. The compressor unit is locate on the starboard side of the lazarette hatch, as appears to be standard for this early model. I'm looking for the specific make and model number used by others who have replace their units. My main concerns are the length of the freon lines, and the capacity of the unit to cool properly. I look forward to your replies.

James
s/v CaiLeighAnna
Hull 299
#18
I purchased Hull 299, a 1987 C34 a couple years ago. After repowering and replacing many of the systems I started racing and cruising her in the fall of 2014. Our home port is St. Simon's Island, GA where there are a couple other C34. I don't see much activity on this forum for the C34 in our area. Any other owners nearby??

James
s/v CaiLeigh Anna
Hull 299
#19
Main Message Board / Picture of C34 Sail # 796
October 31, 2015, 03:57:18 AM
A friend was in San Francisco this past summer and took a picture of a sailboat he thought was similar to mine. He was spot on because it is a C34 sail number 796. I thought the owner might like a copy. Hat's off to the skipper who appears to be single handing the boat is a pretty good blow. See attached photo.

#20
Main Message Board / Teak Trim Replacement
March 21, 2015, 08:15:46 AM
The C34 has a small (about 3/4") piece of teak trim running horizontal on the coach above the portlights. This piece of thin trim has deteriorated to the point that I need to replace or just remove it from the boat. I know I can buy some teak and make new pieces, but I'm looking for other options. Has anyone just removed it and sealed the screw holes? Has anyone found a replacement material other than teak that works better? I look forward to suggestions and comments. James H. Newsome #299 s/v CaiLeigh Anna
#21
Main Message Board / Floor Boards in 1987 C34
October 29, 2013, 01:49:34 PM
I am in the process of purchasing a 1987 Catalina 34 and will need to replace the floorboards in the galley and main saloon. What are the best options? I assume someone has done this over the years.