Topics

I did a search for the OEM oil pressure switch socket size.  Found results indicating 15/16 and 11/16.  Anyone know the correct size?

My friends dog, a 20lb terrier mix, will no longer get on the boat after a couple tumbles down the companionway stairs.  Now he won't even walk down the finger pier to the boat.  I tried building a 1' wide carpeted ramp with his favorite treat in the boat but no joy.  I'm starting to think this dog just won't sail.  I can't just pick him up because he's a nipper.  Anyone have recommendations to train or a better breed of dog that can navigate our companionway stairs?

Hi all. I have a Jabsco head and pump. I pumped out a few weeks ago and haven't used the head in a while. A guest used it and swears nothing was thrown in. I've been letting it soak for a few days hoping whatever is there will slowly dissolve but no luck so far. If I need to disassemble, where is the place to start?

Anyone install a diesel heater?  I had a very old one in the port lazarette but went tits up.  I'm trying to find a better location for a new one since the exhaust run would be longer than spec.  Where did you locate and how many duct openings?

Anyone have experience with how the fuel gauge fails vs. how the sending unit fails?  My fuel gauge suddenly pegged empty.

Anyone have a good technique for changing the secondary fuel filter on a M25XP without spilling diesel?

Hi all, just wondering if anyone else is experiencing main mast vibration when the main sail is down and 15-20mph winds hit.  I get a modal vibration that shudders the boat. Not so bad to do damage but noticeable.   I checked my shrouds and fore and back stays and the all seem tight.  Didn't have a rigger check it yet.  Seems like it has always done this.  I don't notice it when under sail and shrouds and stays seem tight. 

I was reading a thread on another board about the use of travelers.  Just wondering how others use their travelers.  I rarely use mine.  I find if I want to let the main out, I just use the mainsheet.  The traveler seems to do the same thing.  I could see how you use it to bring the boom a little closer to center-line but not very much.

My boat is out of the water so I took a brass wire wheel to the prop and strut to remove barnacles that were attached. The wheel took most of the barnacles off but could not remove some remnants. See pic. Question, do I just apply prop paint over this or maybe use an acid wash that will remove?

I removed my grab rails last week and have been stripping and sanding ever since.  One side I was able to unscrew the acorn nuts from below and remove the rail without removing any plugs.  The other side I had to remove 4 teak plugs because the acorn nuts would spin the whole screw.  Now it's time to somehow secure the screws from spinning and replace the teak plugs.  My question is should I super glue the screws before replacing the plugs or just clean and anti-seize the treads?  Also, when replacing the teak plugs, should I glue in, varnish in, or press fit? My plan is to seal and varnish with Flagship many coats so glued in plugs may not be necessary.

Another issue is blotchiness.  After stripping and sanding, I applied a coat of teak oil and the rails have many blotchy spots.  See photo.  Bleach did not seem to help much before I teak oiled.  Will TSP or teak cleaner help or is this just the way old teak looks?  I really don't want to sand my rails down to toothpick size.

I was at Fisheries Supply the other day and saw these interesting solar panels.  The idea of plugging them in as needed seems to make sense for the non full time cruiser. I'd use on top of the hard dodger when needed.  Looks like an easy install direct to the house bank.  Then, stow below out of the weather when not needed.  As I recall, they were in the neighborhood of $300 - $400. Looks like mounting can be done with Velcro.  Heat dissipation may be an issue.  I have no financial interest.

This will be my first year pulling the boat out for the winter since I'm expecting to be gone. Never had to winterize before since I kept the boat in the water with no problem. I'm sure many of you lake sailors do this every year so can you share your process and what to be aware of?  I'm planning on emptying my water and waste tanks and adding several gallons of non toxic antifreeze to each. Also want to put AF in the water heater lines but not sure how. Maybe disconnect at the pump and pour in?  I'll run AF through the sea water side of the HX by disconnecting the raw water intake and sticking the hose into a bucket of AF. Also will pour AF into bilge and disconnect bilge pump so when rain water comes in through the mast head it won't pump out the AF. I'm thinking there won't be enough to rain water to over fill the bilge. Maybe also pour a little AF in each drain and head. Am I missing anything?

When I start my M25XP engine and turn glowplugs on, the voltage on the engine panel drops to 10, the lowest reading on my meter. I have a new group 24 start battery. Once the starter failed to start the engine, (no click). I assumed this was because the voltage had dropped to 10v and was not sufficient to start. My question is. Is this voltage drop normal or perhaps a bad glowplug?

My mainsail cover is starting to look like moths have eaten it.  Probably sun damage but it may be time for a new cover.  Maybe even upgrade to an attached cover where the sail falls into the cover.  I have been looking around and came across this one.  Price looks very reasonable.  Anyone have experience with this or comments?
http://www.mauriprosailing.com/us/1-Mauri-Pro-Canvas-Mainsail-Cover-MZ-Style/MPCMZ40.html
I should add, I have no affiliation with the company.

Greetings:
Installing a single angle pedestal guard with Navpod now makes it impossible to slip the cup holder over the top of the guard. Has anyone encountered this issue before and what solution did you come up with using the old cup holder?

Has anyone had to cut their MK1 electrical panel to install new switches?  Doe it cut without chipping?

I would like to use my existing transducers to link to the chartplotter but I don't know much about them.  Judging by the look, I'd guess they are original equipment on a 1989 MK1.  The chartplotter requires a "600W DSM-compatible sonar transducer connection".  I believe they are Airmar depth and speed transducers. Does anyone know if the are 600W DSM-compatible?

Hi all, I just installed an ACR with a start isolation feature and connected the alternator directly to the house battery but the voltage at the house battery is now 17.25 volts. Before the switch over, voltage was at around 13.7. Seems like a dramatic change. First of all, is this voltage to high for my two group 27 house batteries?
The other problem with the higher voltage is the ACR goes into lockout mode at 16.0volts and prevents the start battery from being charged. Is there a way to reduce the voltage the alternator puts out?

Hi all, I just purchased a Raymarine E7D. I have been looking at Navpods and mainsail's flat mount for the new baby but am concerned about taking up more space and obstructing visibility and movement in the cockpit. I was thinking one option would be to mount the chart plotter below at the nav table and using a tablet or iPhone at the helm with a sturdy mount and water proof case. I'm not doing any blue water sailing. My question is do any of you C34 owners find your "full featured" chart plotter is in the way in the cockpit? Has anyone else mounted your "full featured" chart plotter below? Also, where do most put the autopilot control head? I can add the control head and E7d to a Navpod but how obstructive will that be based on your experience.
Thanks
Mark

Hi all, I am installing a dedicated starter battery using the approach that many have suggested. This diagram by mainsail depicts the basic layout of what I am trying to accomplish.



I chose this because I'd like to isolate electronics from engine starting transients.

I have several questions about the best location for components that would give me as little wire routing difficulties as possible.

My current setup is 2ea 4D Grp 27 600CCA batteries wired as separate banks and parallel when the Perko 1-2-B is set to "Both".  They are located under the starboard settee in two battery boxes. My alternator is the factory 55Amp Motorola.  My charger is a Newmar ABC 12-15. I've installed the start battery in the aft cabin under the forward storage compartment just aft of the prop shaft.

From my reading, I will need to...

1) Move the starter cable from the "C" post to #2 post on the Perko 1-2-B switch.
2) Install and ACR, combiner, or Echo Charger from the bank #1 to the start battery.
3) Connect the starter battery ground cable to the engine block.
4) Install a on/off switch between the starter battery positive cable and the starter.
5) Wire the 2 4D house bank batteries in parallel.

My questions are...
1) Which is easier to install, the Echo Charger or ACR?  From what I read, they both work but the ACR requires a much heavier cable which may make cable routing difficult.  I'm not worried about cost since the are probably only a few $$ difference.
2) Given my location of my starting and house banks, where would be the optimum location to install the ACR or Echo Charger?
3) Where would be the best location to install the starting battery on/off switch?  I'm trying to avoid an unsightly or obstructive installation but still be easily accessible.

Thanks
Mark

I am considering adding a wheel autopilot to my C34. From what I read, the C34 is at the high end of the weight specs. I would be using it mostly for Puget Sound cruising. In perticular, has anyone installed the Raymarine EV-100 on a C34 and what were your results?

While out single handed yesterday in 15 knot winds, the shackle on the jib halyard broke when the jib was fully raised.  It started to fall so I could not use the roller furling to bring in.  Went forward and pulled it all the way down.  Is there a way of getting the halyard down without climbing the mast?  Thanks

I have an opportunity to purchase a used sail in good condition, however, it's measurements don't quite match the specs in the Catalina owners manual.  My question is can I still use it?  It has hank-on clips but I have a roller furling.  Below are it's dimensions.


                Luff       Leach     Foot
               40'         34.5       23.24


Catalina spec dimensions for my 1989 MKI are...

                Luff       Leach     Foot
110%         37.83     33.83     16.5
130%         44.00     40.00     19.33
150% Furl   42.33     41.66     21.33

While cruising the San Juans this summer, we got into some fairly strong winds maybe 15knts. Main and 150 genoa up.  A gust came up as we were rounding a point off one of the islands doing about 6.5knts with prop in reverse and dingy engine motor down ( it fell down and I didn't want to stop).  I turned the rudder hard to port to avoid rocks but the boat just kept going straight for the rocks!  I think I dumped air out of the genoa to correct the problem but I had never run into this situation before.  Anyone else experience the boat not responding to rudder direction?  What did you do?

I checked my coolant level over the weekend to discover that seawater had replaced the nice green colored antifreeze in the engine.  I drained and flushed the water heater hoses and the engine, then removed the HX.  Seems like a sure sign the heat exchanger has failed.  I was wondering if there is any other way salt water can get into the cooling system?  Do I need to have it pressure tested or just do the replacement.

I'd like to add a thermostatic shower valve to control the temperature of hot water coming out of the sink in the head.  It is not easy getting the temp. just right in the shower then turn off to soap up and readjust the temp again to rinse.  I'd like to keep the galley sink capable of very hot water for cleaning so installation under the lavatory sink is what I would like.   I'm thinking I would need to know...
1)flow rate (gpm)
2) size of the hot and cold water lines
3)Water pressure (PSI).
Has anyone done this yet?  If so what mixing valve did you use?

I've noticed everytime I check the oil level, the first time I pull the dipstick the oil level reads zero.   I dip the stick back in and get a full reading.  The first time this happened, I thought I was leaking or using oil so I filled a half quart.  Dipped the stick in and was over filled.  I suspect I'm not the only one who's noticed this but hope it will help new owners to not overfill.  Still don't know how this can possibly happen but it does...

My boom has completely detached from the gooseneck (see photo). Looks like there is a single cotter pin that has corroded and allowed the fitting to slide out of the boom thus detaching from the gooseneck.  I'm thinking if I unscrew the four screws holding the boom cap I will be able to install a new cotter pin.  Seems like the cotter pin is not the most secure way of holding the boom to the mast.  Recommendations on how to repair are sought.

My anchor light has been out since I purchased the boat so I would like to replace.  My son climbed the mast and took a photo of what was up there.  Can anyone identify the type of light this is?  I'd like to purchase a new light with the same hole pattern so when he climbs again, it will be an easy installation.

I stopped to check on the boat after about a week.  DC Power was off and no connection to shore power.  Upon boarding, I hear this shrill sound like a CO or smoke alarm.  The inverter switch was on and was the source of the noise.  Turned it off and sound stopped.  Has anyone experienced this before?  Wondering if my inverter is toast.

Thanks

Recently I purchased a BU-353 usb gps puck.  I was a bit disappointed to find out it would not hold reception very well inside the cabin at the nav station where my 5 year old garmin handheld does quite well.  I'd prefer to keep the Garmin as a handheld device.  Does anyone have experience with USB GPS that will work inside the cabin?

Thanks

I can pick up a furling mast for a c42 for a couple thousand bucks.  Does anyone know if this would work on an 89 C34?

Thanks

Just thought I would share how I modified my propane locker to allow a 4 pound propane bottle to fit in the locker after the OPD valve was required for new propane tanks.  After removing the locker from the aft cockpit locker, I used 1x2 pine boards (actually 1.75x.75) to make a 13x13 inch frame and glued to the top of the locker.  Drilled holes to secure the clamps to the 1x2, painted and reinstalled.