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Topics - Jack Hutteball

Pages: [1] 2 3
1
Main Message Board / Mainsheet Articles
« on: May 17, 2018, 06:02:51 PM »
Does the Mainsheet seem a little ďthinĒ these days?  Does it need more articlesÖ more Tech Notes?  If so, opportunity abounds!

The Mainsheet Editor, Jim Holder,  is always looking fo articles that will pique the interest of not only C34 Owners, but the the broader Catalina Family as well.  You donít need to be a celebrated author to pen (you all have computers of course) an article that would be interesting to all the readers out there.  Editors will help smooth out any rough spots, you just need to keep the storyline going.

How about Destination Articles of your favorite cruising grounds.  Articles about lessons learned that will be valuable to all.  Close calls, itís OK to relate an experience, we have all been there!  Look through some of your past Mainsheets and see which articles interested you the most and use them as a guide for your own story.  I will bet there is an article within you that everyone would enjoy reading.

As a guideline, articles should be around 1000 to 1500 words, although some in the last issue were much longer than that.  It is good to have 4 to 5 photos to go along with the article.  These should be as high a resolution as as possible with whatever camera you have at hand. They donít have to be works of art, just sharp interesting photos related to the story.  No zooming with smart phone cameras as they are generally not sharp.

Donít forget Tech Articles!  There are many discussions on the forum about improvements or problems solved on our boats that would make great Tech Articles.  Note how many times someone asks for a picture and explanation of your project, the how to's and results.  No specific length for these, just try to be as detailed as needed so the reader can follow your procedure.  Include photos detailing the progress of the work that will help explain your method or progress.  ďA picture is worth 1000 words!Ē

Last but not least, how about getting a great photo of your boat on the cover.  Jim is always looking for photos of our sailboats in action, with lots of color.  Note the great C34 photo on the Spring issue of Mainsheet.

Articles are due the 1st of March, June, September, and December for each of the Spring, Summer, Fall, and Winter issues. All general articles should be forwarded to me, and tech articles to John Nixon our tech editor.  Our emails are under the Association button on the website.  Feel free to contact me if you have any specific questions related to a potential article, I am here to help.

Jack Hutteball
C34 Associate Editor

2
Main Message Board / Mainsheet cover photo
« on: December 16, 2017, 07:07:01 PM »
Here is a great opportunity to have one of your great photographs grace the next cover of Mainsheet.  I just received this from Jim Holder, the publisher:
 
"We donít have a good cover shot for the Spring issue and some of the best covers
have come from your association. Could you please pass the word for some possible
photos that would make a good cover, possibly something dramatic or a serene
sunset. We would really appreciate your efforts.
Thanks for your help,"
jim

It needs to be a high resolution photo, preferably in vertical format like the cover of the magazine.  I am sure you all have some good ones, probably of your boat.  Nice to get a good photo of our great 34's on the cover!

Get them to me at my email at c34captain@gmail.com in the next few days and I will submit them for consideration.

Jack Hutteball,
C34 Associate Editor

3
Main Message Board / Tack problem
« on: July 09, 2015, 08:54:59 PM »
I spent the day changing all the oil, oil filter, fuel filters, and transmission fluid... fun day.  Ran the engine in gear for about 20 minutes to make sure that everything was operating correctly and no leaks anywhere.  Set the engine rpm's about 1500 and let it run while I checked and cleaned things up.  When I went to shut off the engine I noticed the tack was reading 2800 which was a surprise, as the engine speed had not changed.  When I throttled back the tac stayed at 2800.  IF I throttle up the tack would go above 2800, but then stop at 2800 as I throttled back to the lowest speed.  Turned the engine and key off and the tack stayed ay 2800.  Tapping on the glass resulted in no change.  I started and stopped the engine several times, same result.  All the other gages are working fine.

Broken tack?  I assume that if it is an electrical problem the needle would return to 0 with everything off.

Jack Hutteball
Mariah lll

4
Main Message Board / Fiberglass hard top dodger finish
« on: June 22, 2015, 10:14:08 PM »
We have a dark blue fiberglass hardtop dodger on our C34, which is a pain to keep looking good.  After 14 years it has oxidized enough that it is going to take a mild rubbing compound and waxing to bring it back to top shape, then continual waxing as before.  Is there some "clear coat" finish that I could spray on, like an automobile clear coat finish that would eliminate the continual waxing?  Would it be better to clean it up and paint it with a hard shell epoxy paint?  Would appreciate any experience others have had with a similar top.  I know, should have purchased white like manufacturer recommended. :?

5
Main Message Board / Seaward water heater connection
« on: June 12, 2015, 01:43:50 PM »
I have a leak from one of the connections of the engine coolant hoses to the water heater on our MKll.  It is difficult to get at, having to remove both my battery banks, removing hold down screws and sliding the tank forward enough to tighten the hose clamp by feel(cant see it except with a mirror).  Did that, put it all back together... still leaks.  Did it all again and completely disconnected the coolant hose which looked bad on the end. Fun, with coolant going all over the place until I could get plugs in the hose and heater tube!  Cut off the end, added a new section of hose (of course after cutting it off it's too short!) connected with new hose clamps.  After putting it all back together and running the engine, I am still getting some weeping out of the bottom corner of the square metal tank enclosure.  Could possibly be residual coolant draining out of the tank enclosure after coolant pouring out from disconnecting the hose, but it has been 3 days.

Question, could there be a leak at the heat exchange tube going into the water tank?  What is that connection, welded, screwed in etc, as I can not see it without completely pulling the tank.  Any one had a similar problem?  Looks like a difficult operation to remove the tank in a MK ll.  Anyone done it?  I have the Seaward 6 gallon tank in the square enclosure with heat exchanger connections on the back.  Assume it is standard in the MK ll's.

Jack

6
Main Message Board / Xantrex Truecharge 20
« on: July 24, 2014, 06:08:23 PM »
I took the advice on the board and replaced the Charles charger with a Xantrex Truecharge 20 right after we bought our boat in 2001, and it has worked flawlessly for the last 13 years. Kept my original 4d's going for 10 years, which seems good. 

Plugged in and turned it on after our trip and all i get is the 20 amp light flashing with no ready or recharging lights on or flashing.  Owners manual says this indicates overheating or underheat.  Batteries are cold to the touch, both banks.  (4 golf carts in house bank, and 1 - 12 volt start/reserve, all flooded)  I have checked all wiring and connections are clean and bright.  Fuses in the wires to the batteries are good.

Turning the unit on it goes thru it's start up cycle and just reverts to the 20A light flashing and no charging.  Tried disconnecting either or both battery banks, same thing.  Assuming at this point the charger is toast unless any of you have any other ideas.  Reading thru the info on chargers here I noted that starting with shore power and the charger on may kill the charger.  I may have done that as I was anxious to get going this year, but do not remember for sure.  I usually unplug prior to starting.

Time for replacement?  Looking at reviews for Xantrex chargers on West Marine site does not give me much confidence.  Should I be looking at something else if I need to replace?

Jack

7
Main Message Board / LPG switch indicator light
« on: July 20, 2014, 09:52:28 PM »
About the middle of our 4 week trip to Desolation Sound the "on" indicator light for the LPG solenoid quit functioning, but the LPG solenoid continued to operate.  I checked all the connections to the light and they seem to be fine, so I assume I need to replace the bulb.  Is this something I need to obtain from Seward or is there a better place to obtain one?  it appears the light is glued into the panel from the back.  Have any of you had to replace any of the indicator lights on the main panel?

Jack

8
Main Message Board / O-rings
« on: October 09, 2012, 05:56:37 PM »
Has anyone replaced the O-ring on the deck access cover plate for the emergency tiller on a MK ll?  If so, where did you get it.  All the potential
sources here in Anacortes WA came up dry.

Jack

9
Catalina 34s Parts & Pieces For Sale or Wanted / V-Berth Cushons
« on: June 30, 2012, 08:00:00 AM »
Need replacement V-Berth Cushions?

We retrofitted our V-berth with a custom mattress.  The upholstery is in excellent condition (blue with white flecks, which was standard for many years).  The foam is a bit past its prime but still usable. 

We'd like to pass along the set.   

Thanks,
Jack and Margaret
S/V Castlewellan

10
Fleet 5 / Selling C34 MKll ?
« on: February 18, 2012, 04:59:53 PM »
I got a phone call from a fellow in Vancouver who wants to know if there's a Catalina 34 MK II, vintage around 2000, for sale.  Anyone interested?  Please reply to jhutteball@comcast.net

11
Main Message Board / Bilge pump float switch
« on: July 16, 2011, 07:56:19 PM »
When was the last time you checked the operation of the float switch on your bilge pump... never?  Yep, that's me, but I have only owned the boat 10 years. :sleepy:  I did not know how, or even if you could check it.  I had a survey yesterday so I can reinsure my pride and joy (required by my insurance company after 10 years).  The surveyor found ONLY one thing wrong... my float switch was inoperative.   I check the bilge pump operation every time I am on the boat by flipping the switch to manual to insure it runs.  When I leave the boat, I always insure it is on automatic so the boat may be on top of the water when I return.  Little did I know that nothing would have happened if a leak developed somewhere.  The water has never been deep enough in my bilge to make the pump come on, let alone get close to the wiring.  In essence I keep a dry bilge.  The wiring to the pump and switch has never been in any bilge water.

I removed the corrugated chafing shield that Catalina installs around the wiring in our boats, and nothing seemed amiss.  I checked the switch, all OK.  Upon closer inspection of the wires close to the switch, about 1" from where they disappear into the sealed case of the switch, I saw a bulge in one wire.  Insulation was not damaged that I could see.  Cutting it open, all that was inside the insulation was a little green powder from my cut right on into the switch.  The wire was completely corroded away! :shock:  My guess is that the switch has been inoperative for some time.  I just added another item to my routine checklist.

Jack


12
Main Message Board / Stuffing box packing replacement
« on: July 08, 2011, 08:25:50 PM »
We finally had a few days of nice weather here in the Pacific Northwest, so I hauled the boat for bottom paint, waxed the hull, installed new zincs, and changed the packing in the stuffing box.  The boat is now 10 years old and this is the first packing replacement.  My manual calls for 3 rings of 3/16" packing so I purchases the gortex material in that size.   When I pulled out the old packing I was surprised to find only 2 rings of the OEM packing.  It did take 3 rings of the new packing when I did the installation.  I have the packing nut on hand tight and locked with the locking nut until I splash tomorrow, then will do final adjustment.  Thinking something was funny about only 2 rings in the OEM packing, I picked up a scrap piece and compared it to the new gore packing. I seems to be 1/4" rather than 3/16".  At this point I am assuming the 3 rings of 3/16" will compress and do the job.  I will find out tomorrow :donno:

Jack

13
Main Message Board / MK ll Battery wiring
« on: May 10, 2011, 06:32:28 PM »
I am finally changing my 2 - 4D batteries for 4 - 6 volt batteries and adding a separate starting battery as many have done.  I think I have had great use of the original batteries for the last 10 years, thanks to the info I read on this board about installing a smart charger early on.  Thanks guys :clap  I am keeping it simple by putting the start battery on battery 1 and the house bank on 2.  I have one question.

The batterys on my 2001 MKll, from the positive terminal each have a wire to the battery switch poles 1 and 2, and each have a wire to the battery charger.  There is a third red #14 wire from each positive post to somewhere I have not been able to determine.  They do not show up on the wiring diagrams in the owners manual.  I am the original owner so it was nothing added by a PO. 

Anyone with a MKll know what these wires serve?  Not a big deal really as I will reconnect one to the start battery and one to the new 4 battery house bank, but I would like to know what they do. :donno:

Jack

14
Main Message Board / Louvered teak doors
« on: February 26, 2010, 01:40:24 PM »
I am going to install louvered teak doors in several places on our MKll to get at some of the unused spaces.  Have any of you out there used Thai Teak Marine for cabinet doors?  What about quality and delivery.  Testimonials look good and prices are excellent.

Thanks in advance,
Jack

15
Main Message Board / Hot water tank heating loop leak
« on: September 24, 2009, 06:39:06 PM »
Searched the wiki and have not seen this issue before.  I am getting engine cooling water/antifreeze mixture in the aft compartment of the bilge.  I have carefully checked all hoses and connections around the engine, heat exchanger and find nothing.  I have checked the hose connections from the engine to the back of the water heater and find no leaks.  When I use a mirror and look under the sink cabinet I can see the hoses and they are dry.  (Yes Stu, they look new, not like the ones you pulled from under your cabin sole!) I have checked for chafe where the hoses go thru the floor of the sink cabinet, all dry.  But there is coolant dripping from the end of the boards that form the base for the sink cabinet and the floor under the settee where the water heater and batteries are located.  Since this is in the area under the water heater, there has to be a leak associated with the heater.  I see nothing on the back of the heater where the hose connects, completely dry.

The Seaward manual that I have has a great exploded view of the front of the hot water tank, but not the back.  Since there is no evidence of water on the outside of the square case, is it possible that the coolant is leaking inside the case between the case and the water tank, then coming out of the case on the bottom (which I can't see unless I remove the water tank) finding its way to the bilge?  Anyone had a similar problem before?

Then a final question, has anyone removed the hot water tank from a MKII?  It appears to me that the only way it will come out is to remove the batteries and rotate it 90 degrees so it will come up thru the settee seat access hole.  This is looking like my next step.

Jack

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