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1999 Catalina 34 MK II #1448  Ocean Rose

Boat is located south of Boston, MA

Contact Steve at ssayian@hotmail.com.    $83,000.00 USD

LOA: 34 ft      LWL: 29'10"      Displacement: 12,550     Draft: 4' 3"
Beam: 11' 9"      Bridge Clnc: 52' 6"   Ballast: 5,800 lbs   Keel: wing (lead)
Engine: Universal 35 HP (M-35 Diesel (4 cyl))    Hours: 926.5
Tankage:  Fuel: 25 gal   Water: 73         Holding: 18

Accommodations: The 34MK II has a three cabin, two stateroom layout that provides comfort and sleeping accommodations for seven people.  Spacious aft cabin to starboard, head/shower and hanging locker to port.  Comfortable main salon with dinette that converts to a double bunk starboard, settee and navigation station to port.  Forward is a large V-berth with drop-in cushion, hanging locker and drawers.

Galley:  L-shaped galley with maple cutting board over stove burners provides  work space and storage:
•   2 burner propane stove with oven
•   Adler Barbour refrigeration
•   Propane solenoid shut-off system
•   DC fan over galley
•   Pressurized hot and cold water system
•   6 gallon water heater (ac/engine operated)
•   Double stainless sink
•   Built-in cabinets

Electronics:  Raymarine chart plotter, Radar, auto pilot, wind, depth and speed instruments.
•   Raymarine C-80 chart plotter at helm
•   ST-4000 Autohelm
•   ST-60 Wind, Depth and Speed instruments at helm
•   Standard Horizon Eclipse VHF radio
•   Sony stereo AM/FM/CD player
•   2 KW Raymarine Radome mounted on Edson pole
•   Cockpit speakers

Electrical: 
•   2-4D marine batteries
•   20 Amp battery charger
•   115VAC 30 Amp shore power with cord
•   Zinc saver
•   5 AC outlets in cabin
•   Battery condition meter
•   Battery selector switch
•   DC power outlets in all cabins
•   DC fan in aft cabin

Sails and Rigging:  With all lines leading aft to the cockpit, this boat is a pleasure to sail with a crew or single-handed.
•   135% furling Genoa w/UV protection
•   105% Jib  in 2010. 10.5 oz Dacron with UV protection.
•   New mainsail 2012.  8.5 oz Dacron with on-boom bag which eliminates sail cover and ties
•   Lazy jacks
•   Internal halyards
•   Schaffer roller furling
•   Whisker pole and track

Deck:
•   Swim platform w/ladder
•   Teak cockpit table and beverage rack
•   Cockpit cushions
•   Winch covers
•   Life Sling
•   Anchor windlass
•   Combination dodger/bimini with two connectors (solid and transparent)
•   Walk-thru stern
•   Boat hook
•   Wheel pedestal cover
•   Leather covered 40 inch destroyer wheel
•   Spring loaded boom vang
•   Flag halyard on Starboard spreader
•   Outboard engine mount on stern rail
•   Stainless steel hoist to lift dinghy engine
•   Removable helmsman seat
•   30 pound plow anchor, 20 feet 3/8 inch chain and 180 feet 5/8 inch rode
•   Dock lines and fenders
•   Stern rail seats and cushions

Additional:
•   Bottom was soda blasted and barrier coated in 2007
•   New Kiwi feathering 3-blade prop added in 2007
•   New cutlass bearing in 2014
•   New 10 pound fiberglass propane tank in 2011
•   All boat and system manuals included
•   15x9 Michigan propeller (replaced by feathering prop)
•   Boat is documented
•   7 Brownell SB-2 jack stands
•   2014 Spring launch is paid for

I will be putting Ocean Rose on the market very soon if anyone is looking for a C-34 in the Boston South Shore area. 

I'll be listing it on www.sailboatlistings.com as well as "C-34s For Sale" on this site.

May possibly be getting a smaller sailboat in a year or so.

It's been a pleasure to be part of this Association and you all have been great in your responses to my queries.

Thanks,

Steve

Stu,

Excellent picture of the 'Rocket Ship'!

Steve

I know that this is a very personal topic, however, my insurance keeps going up without any claims.

I currently have Traveler's and have looked into Progressive, Boat US (which are about the same cost as Traveler's, all in the $1300-$1500 range) and GEICO (which is $871).  I used the same coverage information for each quote, with the only exception being the dedutable which was between $500 and $1000.  I can't fathom why there is such a big difference between the policies.

Can anyone offer a reason why this might be?

Thanks,

Steve

I want to install a pneumatic spring on the cockpit locker cover.  It's fallen on my daughter's hand a couple times because she doesn't have the strength to open it.

Has any MK II owners done this retrofit and if so what is the weight of the locker cover and what did you use for the pneumatic spring assembly.

Also, if anyone out there has a newer version of the MK II and it has the spring installed from the factory, can you give me the mfgr and p/n of the assembly if you can see it.

Also going to write Catalina and see what they say for the mfgr, p/n.

Thanks much,

Steve

The six opening ports in the main cabin and vee berth have been leaking when any rain/salt water get on them at the bottom.  Although not a torrent, it's a pain to have to keep stuffing paper towels under tehm to keep the cusions dry

I have removed and rebedded all the ports, put new O-rings on all the exteriors of the latches, and replaced two rubber seals (Lewmar Type 1) yesterday in the vee berth ports (and those still leak).

I'm about ready to weld them all shut with PL-5200 and 6" lag bolts!

Does anyone have anything that I've missed?

Damp and Dizmal

I changed out the head fawcet/shower assembly for a single handle assembly. This is the original fawcet/shower assembly that came with the boat in 1999.

Works fine and all hardware is included.

$50.00 plus shipping.
If interested, please contact me at ssayian@hotmail.com

Steve

I had printed the instructions on how to adjust the size of digital pictures to post them to the site but have lost them (have CRS).

I looked on the Tech MiKi and found nothing.

Can someone point me in the right direction.

I have a sail cover I want to post to the Marketplace.

Thanks,

Steve

I want to add a second rode in the anchor locker and checked the Wiki and found nothing about anyone who's done this on a MK II.

Has anyone added a second rode on a MK II?  I currently have 180' of 5/8 nylon and 20' of 3/8 chain. 

Even if I divide the locker with a plywood (or something) seperator, doesn't look like there's enough room for the new rode/chain.

Would add about 200' of line and 40-50' of 5/16 chain.

Thanks.

Steve

I need to replace my main halyard next spring.  The C34 MK II Manual says 3/8 inch "ULS" (I presume that means Ultra Low Stretch) Low Stretch line and 115 feet long.

Question is, what brand and type line are people using for replacement halyards.

Thanks,

Steve

Last week a boat that was 2 slips down from me (about 45 feet) took a direct hit on his mast head.  Needless to say, he lost everything at the top and all electronics and all things electrical. 
It's been a very active thunderstorm season in Boston and Western Massachusettes so far this year!

I suffered 'bleed over' in the form of a static burst.  Toasted my Raymarine C-80 display, ST-50 instruments and Autohelm 4000 as well as the VHF radio, stereo and battery charger.

Insurance company required the boat to be hauled for underwater damage check (none) and then damage assessment to systems.

Awaiting the replacement cost proposal.

Going to be fun reverting back to the 'old way' of navigating w/charts, dividers and parallel ruler.  Fortunately my hand-held GPS still works...

I recently bought a 105% jib for heavy air as the 135% stock jib doesn't do the trick.

I tried the 105% jib using the 135% sheets and cars on the existing track and all it will do is go off the wind.  I can't get it inboard enough to go upwind.
Today I did some figuring of how to add a new track inside the shrouds on the cabin top.  The biggest problem is the forward lower shroud and how to get around that.  I think I may end up using two sheets, one for the inside track for upwind and the standard sheet for off the wind.  But the first issue is how to solve the inside track problem.

I was wondering if anyone had added an inside track for a smaller jib, where the track was actually positioned on the cabin top, how long is the track and how did the new sheet run from the car to the genny winch?

Any information would be appreciated,

Thanks,

Steve

I need to replace the injectors on my engine. 

I checked the manuals area of the site and found the Kubota tractor number for the M25 block but nothing is listed for the M35 block.

Does anyone happen to know what tracktor model the M35 block is used on?  Could the injectors for both the M25t and M35 be the same?

Thanks,

Steve

My 1999 has the M35 30 HP Universal engine.

I know the M25 folks have a corresponding Kubota block part number to get parts and I was wondering if any of the M35 guys has the Kubota number for the M35 block?  I have a Kubota dealer about 25 miles away and want to get new injectors but don't want to have to refinance my house to get them thru Westerbeke.

Thanks,

Steve

Morning,

I just received an email from Catalina (Ron Frisosky - Catalina News Letter) that has some videos of the 355 going thru stability tests as well as Gerry Douglas discussing construction techniques (audio is tough to hear, lost of echo).  Thought I pass it along to the forum.

Steve

http://campaign.r20.constantcontact.com/render?llr=8yksyebab&v=001KOjYle_zlG-G0PssMPc2IzmRZ_0y6y5iMnL1mkO31q6CmEJmUDsn-wC3gsM5qrNwxL2tVg9SPbAXh71Qb3o933NKljNnu7IiQZ-4CEWIS6CCI0SA91de2rqs2EyGgC_KtNro10jU9rH26elB9d-8Cb5mfORzG0FvjsefYv_YJVQMrZAlz1STiF_oK4XEfo4XYZd_-uEOtul7gSMbsp-6L2V7ZHh8ozOEdo5wfRTD8mrI8_0NKg07DekJoZm-POGOoSly2cFpUks%3D

Finished the installation last weekend.

Remaining pictures and build-plan

Good Morning,

I received the doors I ordered from H&L Marine yesterday and am posting pictures of them as well as the plan I drew.
(three pictures here and the rest with the plan in follow-on post)

They do not come finished or with opening hardware.  I have to order the hardware from Catalina Direct this week as well as put on the finish. The opening hardware will go in the lower corner opposite the piano hinge(s).

Steve

I've seen several articles about 34's that have two anchor rodes.

My question is, do you have a seperator in the locker to keep the rodes from getting tangled and if so, what's it made of and how fastened?  A follow-up to that is how long are each of the rodes and chain?


Thanks,

Steve

I want to add some new doors to the interior and was wondering if anyone knew where Catalina buys their doors and frames for the MK IIs

Steve?

This winter I built a shelf aft of the forward water tank under the vee berth to gain more storage (MK II boat).  There's a ton of storage space there but everything falls into the bilge and on top of the knot meter and depth sounder transducers.

What I want to do now is get rid of the useless drawer that slides under the vee berth and replace it with two 12x12 inch doors (making one 24 inch unobstructed opening) to get better access to the shelf.  I'm also going to add a 12x12 inch door to the starboard side of the vee berth bulkhead.

My question is; where's a good place to get teak doors?  I'd like to get louvered doors for ventilation.  They can either be already in a frame or stand-alone.  I have a carpenter that's going to install them as I do my best work with wood in a fireplace...

Thanks,

Steve

Stu,

Thanks very much for the outstanding tribute to Jon.  I was very touched by the article.

Steve

Hi Stu,

My wife Gwen, had a feature article published in this months Mainsheet "A Big Move for a Small Reason".

I was wondering if you knew how (and how much it would cost) to get another half dozen copies of the magazine to have additional copies of the article?   

Thanks very much.

Steve

I'm looking at buying a used Pro Mariner 30 Amp charger from a friend and have seen all kinds of posts on the board about the 20 Amp model.

Can anyone tell me if the 30 Amp model has the same bad reputation as the 20 Amp model?

Thanks,

Steve

I removed my fuel tank (aluminum) yesterday to clean it out.  Had to cut a 4" opening in the Port locker to access the outboard ear on the bottom of the tank to remove the three screws.  In my case, I also had to remove the feed line petcock and the return line nipple to get the tank out from its' perch.  Another issue was the extremely tight ground wire that was fastened to the top of the tank.  Ended up cutting it from the screw-on connector.  Will fabricate a longer lead when installng the tank.
Otherwise it was a fairly straight forward removal.  I am amazed that with the shape of the tank, it can stay up on the ledge without the back end falling onto the wood bulkhead.

Just wanted to pass along what I encountered with my particular boat.

Happy New Year to all.

Steve

I was just looking at the local Catalina dealer (Eastern Yacht Sales) and they have a new 2008 C-34 listed with a 30 H.P. Yanmar engine instead of the normal Universal engines.

Anybody seen this before or am I in the dark?

Steve

I have an M35B on a '99 MKII.  Last year I put on a Kiwi 16" feathering prop with a factory setting of 21 degrees (~11.5").  When the boat was launched the engine lost 600 RPMs and it smoked very bad.  I had a diver go in and reduce the pitch to 18 degrees (~10+").  Engine performance improved but there was still some light grey smoke at the top end.
This year I further reduced the pitch to 17 degrees (~9.5").  Engine RPMs increased a bit (my tach is not at all accurate so revs I achieved are not relevant.  Ordered a laser tach to rectify that problem) and it still smoked light grey smoke at the top end.

Prior to the Kiwi prop I was running the standard 15x9 3-blade Michgan prop and the engine didn't smoke a bit.  Could get 7.1 knots at full throttle.

My transmission is a 1.79:1

My questions are:  1. Does anyone else runnig a Kiwi on an M35B exibit any of these symptoms.
2.  What did your Kiwi props come set with for pitch in degrees?
3.  What diameter Kiwi are you running.

Thanks for the help.

Steve

Last fall I had the mast dropped as it's never been done since the boat was commissioned in 1999 (I'm the third owner).

Anyway, today I lightly sanded the oxydation off the spreaders and sprayed them with a clear enamel and noticed that when I placed them next to each other, the Port spreader was longer than the Starboard.
The exact lengths are:
Port; 43 1/16 inches
Starboard; 42 7/8 inches.

When I aligned the clevis pin holes together on the spreaders, the ends of them were identical.  The tops (where the upper shroud is inserted) has the length difference.

Has anyone experienced this in the past?

I'm not too concerned about the 3/16 inch difference in width over the shroud run from the spreaders to the chainplate, but am curious.

Steve

This year we did a 'non-traditional' Christmas and went to Florida Dec 21st and returned Dec 28.  For a lifelong New Englander, this is a very big deal! We stayed at Treasure Island, outside of St. Petersburg and the day after Christmas we went to the Catalina factory in Largo for a tour.

Our tour guide was Warren Pandy, Manager of Service and Technical Support. The tour was about an hour and we went through most of the production facility.  I had never seen a fiberglass boat manufacturing plant so this was very interesting to see the process.  In the case of Catalina's', each hull is hand layed up.  The average boat takes about 2 months from initial gell-coat spray to shipment to the dealer.  We saw a couple Catalina/Morgan 440's in initial stages (huge hulls when they are empty!!!), many 320's in various states of completion and the brand new 375 (C36 replacement), hull number 1 with hulls 2 and 3 close behind (hull no. 1 is going to the Boston Boat Show in January and on to the Chicago Show later in Jan).  We were amazed at the complexity of the lay-up and most importantly, the attention to detail Catalina puts into building their boats.  All chain plate areas of the decks have 1/4 inch series 316 stainless backing plates glassed in and are later drilled and tapped to receive bolts.  All winch bases, traveller, and stanchion bases have stainless backing plates glasses in.  The hull and decks have integrated raceways for wiring that eliminate the possibility of chafing from hull movement under sail/power.  The walkways in each deck have a balsa-core that is cut in 1 1/2 inch sections and held together on the backside by a vinyl adhesive.  When these sections are layed up, the resin penetrates in between the individual sections forming an encapsulated piece.  Warren said that should an area of the deck fracture and the core become impregnated with water, the damage would be isolated to a very small area that can be fixed.  He showed us a core sample from a C42 hull that was removed for a depth sounder and it had to have been about 2 1/2" thick!!!  All through-hull flanges are glassed into the mold on initial gell-coat layup and the mat and roving are added as the layup progresses.  They manufacture all their interior wood (teak) framing and fiberglass molded head/galley components.  We were very impressed with the overall quality and attention to detail that goes into these boats and are very glad we own one!!!  They let us take some pictures of the hulls and production process but we had to agree not to distribute them.  I would highly recommend that if you have a chance, that you take a tour of the facility (CA or FL).

A few months ago there was a post on the site about the C34 molds being shipped to the Florida plant.  I asked Warren if production had started and he wasn't aware that the molds were being sent there.  He thought they may be in-transit.
Today I was at Eastern Yacht Sales (South Shore Boston area dealer) and was told that the 34 is going into 'limited production' for 2008.

Anyway, that's my tale.  As I mentioned, I'm sure glad I own a Catalina and feel very confident in the construction methods and overall quality of the boat!

Steve

Somehow this season my foredeck bulb got broken.  Noticed broken glass just below the mast one day.
The mast is down and the bulb receptacle has the 2 pins of the bulb in it.

My question is; is this the same halogen-type bulb used in the interior lights or a completely different bulb?

I can't tell by looking at the fixture.  There is no eveidence of a lens cover on the fixture which leads me to believe it is a weatherproof bulb.

I looked in the latest C-34 Users Manual and found no reference to any mast bulbs.

Thanks,

Steve

My Fly-Back 20-3 died this weekend and I've been reading the posts on battery chargers.
Is the current thinking on replacements for the 20-3 still the Truecharge 20+?

Thanks,

Steve

Yesterday while sailing back from Salem, MA I noticed salt water pooling around the port side of the main cabin sole by the hanging locker (starboard tack).  I had recently cleaned the knot meter paddle wheel and (and gotten rid of all the water) and the nut at the top of the fitting was not tight.  I think the water is getting under the floor boards via the hanging locker in the vee berth.  Have not seen this on a port tack.

My question is that on the MK IIs is there a way to set up a drain to go from the vee berth into the bilge?

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Steve

I have a 1999 MK II and want to put an additional access door on each side of the bulkhead below the drawer under the vee berth.
I can fit a 12x12 frame (max) on each side (will have to trim a bit to get it in, but that gives me an 11x11 opening).  The minimum opening I want to have is 8 inch.

Am looking for something that closely resembles the 'blonde teak' finish on the MK IIs or better yet, a white finish.  Also want a solid door too.  Have looked on West Marine and Defender and all they have is the dark teak styles.

I know this mod has been done before but am looking for a specific size and type.  Any suggestions where I can try to fine these?

Thanks much!
Steve

Planning on our 2-week cruise to Martha's Vineyard and wondering if anyone has ever used dry ice in the cooler?  The fridge unit is kaput and not worth spending money on getting it fixed (managed for the last 30 years to get by without one, so no need to start now).  A friend of mine has used dry ice for cooling when he has gone on 4-5 week cruises.
Just wondering if anyone has had any experience w/it and if so, how do you pack the ice box?
Thanks,
Steve

I need to change the oil on my M35 and being new to it (had the M25 on my C30) there is a tube on the starboard side of the engine that runs from the bottom of the oil pan to a bracket on the front of the engine.  It looks like this is where you drain the oil from but I'm curious as to how to actually get the oil out.  Does it drain by gravity or do you use some kind of pump to empty the pan.
Any advice would be welcome.
Thanks,
Steve

My '99 MKII has the Universal M35B and I was wondering if it can use Kubota parts like the M25s can?

Thanks,
Steve

Just got my Feb '07 issue of Mainsheet yesterday and under the C34 section there was an article about the Kiwi Feathering Prop from West by North Enterprises.
I'm in the market for a 3-blade feathering prop and am wondering if anyone out there has the Kiwi and how it performs.

Steve

I noticed last year that the spokes on my Edson wheel were loose at the hub.  This caused the wheel to come in contact with the engine control panel at the base of the pedestal.  I spoke to Edson and they said that when manufactured, the spokes are pressed into the hub and then welded to the wheel. 
Over time the spokes loosened up in the hub causing the wheel to 'rock' fore and aft when holding it.  The welds at the rim of the wheel are fine.  I took the wheel down to Edson in New Bedford, Mass and and they welded each of the six spokes.

Don't know if anyone has also encountered this problem.  I imagine that any reputable specialty welding shop can cure the problem if your not close to an Edson dealer.  They charged me $79.00 for the welds.

Steve

I need to replace the washers under the keel bolts as they are rusted.  I checked my local tool rental stores for a deep socket (1-1/8") by about 6 inches and they had nothing.
I wrote to Catalina to see what they used and the torque requirements.
Kent Nelson of Catalina wrote back and said the torque was 105 foot-pounds and that they used a deep socket the most likely made for the job.  He suggested that I have a maching shop cut a deep socket and weld it to another deep socket to get the required length.
I have a 1-1/8" open-end/box wrench but can't get the box end on the nuts with any effective leverage and don't want to use the open-end as the angle is too great and would 'cap' the nuts.

Has anyone ever replaced the keel washers and if so, how did you get the nuts installed to the required torque?  I have seen some boats (C-30's) that had the long bolts cut off and don't really want to try that one.

Steve

While reading the Feb 2006 Mainsheet this past winter, I noticed a service bulletin (#247) from Westerbeke (Universal) about the fuel filter bracket. The bulletin said that on engines built prior to September 2004, the bracket was subject to fracture at the radius bend.  This was due to the older brackets were bent using a 'knife edge' instead of a 'radius edge'. The knife edge bend creates a sharper bend in the steel and is a potential weak spot from vibrations at low idle.

I have an M35B and inspected my bracket and it was fractured about 3/4 of the way along the bend.
I wrote to Westerbeke for the new bracket and they responded very quickly.  The contact at Westerbeke is Joe Joyce and he's the Service Manager.  Joe will respond to your emails.  He sent the new bracket out in a couple days at no charge.  His email address is: JJoyce@westerbeke.com.  If you have one of the referenced engines and have a cracked bracket, you may want to contact Westerbeke for a replacement.  You'll need to provide them with the serial number of your engine with the request.

I replaced the bracket and it took about 15 minutes.  You don't have to remove the fuel filter and go through the bleeding hastle.  Just remove the two bolts, washers, lock washers and nuts that fasten the fliter assembly to the bracket and then remove the two bolts and washers that fasten the bracket to the engine.  Just be carefull as there is a spacer on the outboard side of the bracket between the bracket and the engine.  The bolts are also two different sizes so you'll have no problem seeing the difference. 

Last December (2005) we purchased a 1999 Mk II wing keel model.  We love the boat for its accommodations, motoring ability (M35B w/15x9 3-blade) and full electronics suite (Raymarine 2KW radar, C-80 GPS/Chart Plotter, Autohelm 4000, Knot/Depth/Log/AWI).  Prior to that we had a 1983 C-30 std rig, fin keel.  We noticed this summer that the performance of the 34 was less than that of a 30.  By that I mean we were waxed by several 30s while making transits.  We have a full-batten main and a 135 Genoa.  Granted the 30s had a 150 Genny but 4+ feet in LOA and waterlins shoulod have at leat given me a fair chance.  We have been sailing for over 30 years and not to toot my horn, but we are pretty good sailers
I have done several years doing PHRF races in Boston Harbor crewing on an Evelyn 26 and in our fleet was a C-34 tall rig (I think she is late 80s vintage) that did very well.  Anyway, my question is how does the MkII wing stack/std rig up against the fin/ std rig models?  I have read and spoken to people with both the fin and wing models and the consensus seems to be the wing slips to windward a bit with 'minor' degradation in performance.
I have read the articles on the Forum about the weight (12.5 K lbs vs 16-17 k Lbs) that is on the brochures as opposed to those people have actually weighed their boats.
I'm not ready to get rid of the boat but am looking for some enlightenment from out there if I'm  doing something wrong or this is 'just the way the 34 is', which is OK!
As all sailboaters do, when approaching another sailboat, that constitutes a race!
Appreciate any suggestions or insight you have about this.
Thanks,
Steve

We joined the IA in January of this year and I have tried several times to log on to the site using the username and password provided in the Welcome Letter without success.
I am logged on now as a visitor but would like to know how to get on as a full member.
If any member can help me, please reply via my email address.

Thanks,

Steve