Messages

I purchased my main and 150 Genoa from Mack sails.  Have been very happy.... It's been 8 years now.   

Hi Gulfsailor,
I looked at Webasto but the layout differs quite a bit from the Mermaid, and I'm not sure it would fit under the settee where mine currently sits.    I looked at Mermaid, and their current 16K unit looks to be identical to what I have (was on the boat when I purchased it in 2005).  So it would be an easy swap, but it is an old design, and I think (hope) newer designs should be quieter.  Everything I've looked at is north of $2k, with the Marinair being the lowest cost.  The Marinair is not same as Marineair which was a Dometic product.  Marinair, being imported, costs less.  It is tempting to go with it.... it has high and low pressure gages built-in, so that is a nice feature that others don't have.   

Hello,
I will be replacing our old Mermaid 16K (self-contained unit) this spring, as it is quite old and has a number of issues.  Considering Marinair and Dometic models due to similar size and layout as the Mermaid.   I've read good and bad about each... am hoping I can get some advice from members of this esteemed group 
Recommendations for or against for performance,  reliability, noise, etc. 
Thanks!!

If this is the original fuel tank, you might be better off just replacing it with a new one.   The 20+ year old tanks corrode and develop pin hole leaks.  Search this site and you'll find plenty info on that.  Replacement would be an easier job than cleaning!!

Good one, Stu!! 
Well you have me thinking maybe I am mistaken.  I will have to go look at the hoses next time I'm at the boat... which may be a while since it's much nicer to sit by the wood stove this time of year...

Steve,
I understood Cliff's question. On my boat, the vented loop is on the head intake line.  Not sure if it was factory installed or by PO, but it is the only vented loop in the head plumbing, so I suspect factory install.   I understand convention is to place it between the pump and bowl but that is not my setup.  This topic has been debated before, and I recall there were others that had my setup.  It's worked fine for me for 15 years so I'm good with it 👍.  Since my hull # is close to Cliff's, I thought he might have the same setup. 

Cliff,
On my 1991 that hose does not direct connect the intake to the head.  There is a vented loop in between.   The loop is located in the port lazerette all the way in the back corner.  Need to attach tracer lines to the old hoses as you pull them out so you can pull the new ones through.  Make sure the new hose runsare not overly long and form a loop where they can't be reached.   They will link on you the next year.  Ask me how I know this...😆

Wow. During hurricane season?  Aside from the obvious dangers, would you even be able to get anyone to insure you?

Ken,
Plumbness if that's a word! Sight along each side the rudder and keel.   Looks like bottom of rudder is slightly to port.  Which matches with the rudder post being slightly to starboard on top as viewed in the access port.  But so little, and who's to say the keel is perfectly set on center? 

So back in April when I posted my offset rudder post pic, I said I would take a closer look at the rudder before launching.  I did, and think I saw a bit of offset rudder.  I sighted the rudder against the keel. Very difficult to tell.  In the end, there may be a slight misalignment, but it won't make it to the fix it list or cause any worry.

forget to mention...... the emergency tiller DOES fit

I have Mk1.5 hull 1192, and have a very similar offset.  I noticed it years ago (2009) when I dropped the rudder to repair the seal between the post and rudder. 
At the time I verified the rudder was straight.  I did not try to figure out why the deck plate did not line up with it.    My quadrant also looked like yours due to a leak at the deck plate lock handle.   I replaced the entire access plate at the time.  Also cleaned and painted the quadrant. And blocked off the the inside of the rudder tube and epoxy sealed, so any future leaks would not allow water to go down the tube and into the rudder assembly.

This past year I noticed the deck plate leaking again, this time around the gasket, so I purchased what I thought was going to be a new o-ring seal from the deck plate mfr.  Instead they sent me a 24" length of gasket which I am supposed to fit and trim to size and butt the edges against each other.   and hope it doesn't leak.   Have not yet installed it.  Since I'm still not in the water, I'll take a look again next time I can get to the marina (who knows?) , and see if I can figure out the mystery offset.
So my advice for now is to not worry about the offset.  And fix the leak.

Cliff,
Do you have any pix of that VW10 installed?

Thanks for the info, all.  I will report back my findings, hopefully successful. 
Ken, the Cole Hersee 35A looks like a very good switch.  It has a gasket sealed case and comes with the much ballyhooed rubber cap.  At $15.99 from Defender, it is a great deal.  BTW, I misspoke when I said I replaced the starter ground cable.  I meant the negative battery cable (at bell housing). 

I am getting ready to track down the cause of recent starting problems, where I push the start button and nothing happens.  (No solenoid click, but can see voltage drop on the panel meter when switch is depressed).   I want to replace the push-button starter switch, as it is original, and easy to do.   I suspect the problem is voltage drop in the start wire to the solenoid.  Will also replace the in-line fuse. (I already replaced the starter ground cable when this problem appeared one time last year). Will try to identify the culprit prior to making any changes. Since the problem is infrequent, I am sure it won't occur during my troubleshoot.  But I'll take voltage drop measurements anyway.  I have the M35 engine with wiring harness upgrade.

I am looking for recommendations for a good quality replacement switch.  I saw one on Catalina Direct website, but maybe there is a better one out there??

Thanks